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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    Replace your alternator ASAP.
  • I get hesitation and engine light, Slip. TCS light. After reading codes it gives me P0301 and P1320. P0301 is cylinder #1 misfire and P1320 is ignition signal primary circuit fault. I recently replaced all the spark plugs with new Bosch platinum design at 65000 miles. What else is creating these fault codes may be the coil #1? What is P1320 means?
    Please help.
    Thanks
  • I purchased my 04 Maxima SE when they first came out and since then I had to have my tires rotated and balanced twice. I had the shimmy of the steering wheel also. I only have 14,800 miles on it.....stay at home Mom. Travel vehicle is our F-250 diesel....Well, I finally got tired of the steering wheel shimming when I slowed down and took it in to have the brakes looked at. Well, Nissan had to machine the two front brake rotors because they were warped. I ran into another lady who has 04 SL at my son's school and she said she has had to have her brake rotors replaced twice? Anyone else? I hope this isn't going to be an on going thing because my warranty is up in the Spring! :(
  • My wife drives a 1991 Maxima which only has 14,500 miles on it. At 9,500 the trouble light came on. Took it to dealer, (extended warranty). They changed the 02 oxygen sensor. Last week my wife took a shot trip and the trouble light came on again (now has 14,500 miles). Back to dealer under extended warranty. Again, 02 oxygen sensors bad. Is this a common problem with the maxima's? lt seems odd that these sensors are failing at low mileage. Thank God for extended warranty. These parts are expensive.
  • I have a 2000 maxima w/ 102,000 mile, that has been shutting off while in park, i took it to the dealer and he told me that is was my air filter, so i bought a new filter. the problem started again, with the ses light comming on, and the car again shuts off while in park, the rpms drop delow 500, and then the dashboard lights up and car shuts off. Now i take it back to the dealer and they tell me that i need to change my air flow sensor, $450. IS THIS REALLY NECESSARY? DO I HAVE ANY OTHER OPTIONS, AND IS IT REALLY THE SENSOR THAT NEEDS REPLACING? PLEASE HELP
  • Before I get my 95 SE towed to the dealership. It is making a loud knocking noise from inside the engine. The car will turnover fine and immediately starrt making the knocking noise, it is very LOUD. Once I give it some gas the noise speeds up. Then I let it idle and it will eventually stall itself out. It is not driveable. The noise only gets louder and the car stops every 5-10 feet stalling out. I know it is expensive, I just wonder if I could have someone call me and listen to the noise and tell me what you think. My husband changed the spark plugs thinking it would correct the problem. There is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe and no code for us to go off of. The oil is changed regularly. The car was sitting up in my driveway for 9 months and it was not driven, but I was wondering what it was that could cause these symptoms. I am preparing to buy another engine, but if some one could give me some more insight before the dealership totally screws me I would appreciate it.
  • I have a 98 maxima, a couple of months ago the check engine light came on. When I went for my inspection automatically failed if light is on. Mechanic told me after diagnostic that O2 and knock sensor codes registered. Said to replace O2 sensor. did that a week later light came back on. Codes still registering 02 sensor and knock sensor!! what could be the problem and solution?
  • Just found this site and thought I could get an idea about any maintainence issues any of you would anticipate with a 2002 Maxima SE w/ 76k? Things that commonly go wrong that I could be proactive about? Winter tire recommendations (live in Pittsburgh)? The car is great (except for the gas mileage....swear I can see the needle dropping), look forward to some good tips and advice, thanks everyone.

    SV
  • Have you been using a lower octane gas recently?
  • dahuberdahuber Posts: 53
    Well, my wife's 2001 Maxima GLE has about 71k now and I'm getting ready to do some service items in the next couple months:

    -New drivebelts
    -Change Coolant
    -Change Cabin Air filter
    -Check Brake pads and rotors
    -Change brake fluid

    For winter tires, we use Bridgestone Blizzaks.
    HTH.
    Dave
  • When we purchased this maxima in 2001, gas prices were low and followed the owner's manual and used high octane fuel. After a couple of years with gas prices rising, my wife tried mid grade fuel and car ran fine; however, at 9,000 miles on odometer, got trouble light and 02 Oxygen Sensors needed to be replaced. As gas prices got higher, my wife tried 87 octane fuel. Car ran fine, no ping, etc., however, within a few months after going to 87 octane we got the trouble light and at 14,400 miles, another O2 Oxygen Sensor problem. Does switching grades of cause these problems?
  • kr6464kr6464 Posts: 1
    My 2000 just had the same problem. It was the 02 sensor that was bad, It's not getting the correct mix of gas and air, that's what is causing the knocking. I brought mine to the dealer only because they need to re-set the computer and have the correct systems to do that. It cost about $ 450.00. and the noise went away. Good Luck!
  • tom69tom69 Posts: 1
    While driving under normal conditions either hot or cold, the engine will begin to sputter just like the ignition or fuel was being turned on and off. I have tried a power transistor and camshaft pos. sensor (dealer installed), ECM, fuel pump and filter, and tested the O2 sensor with an ohmmeter and for power. I cannot simulate the condition at idle
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    Stay away from the dealer that you have been going to. They don't know what in the @#&# they are doing!!!! Air filters and Mass Airflow sensors typically don't prevent a car from starting. The above items will typically affect acceleration.

    With the mileage that you have on the vehicle I would have them clean the" Neutral Start Switch " . This switch is connected to the gear selector and only allows starting the car in neutral or park. This only pertains to an auto.trans equipped vehicle. However, if the switch is shot , it will need to be replaced.

    My $0.02. Good luck !!!!
  • rafarafa Posts: 35
    Hi we have a brand new nissan maima se that we bought a couple months ago and its time for its first oil change wanted to use syntechic oil maybe mobil 1. I hear that oil is thicker I also have a 2004 nissan titan that i bought new last year but i havent used syntechic motor oil will use it next oil change has 11,500 miles on it can someone explain about the syntechic oil thanks
  • bobm10bobm10 Posts: 3
    Is it necessary to remove the intake plenum to change the spark plugs in a 2002 Maxima? Thanks, Bob.
  • IT seems like you're all set to use synthetic oil. In my opinion and many other's, synthetic is very beneficial during hard cold winter months. Since the weather is so cold, it can cause the engine to have poor starts, thus can cause engine damage later on. With Mobil 1(since you stated you will be using it), its additives will put less strain on your engine when it starts in the cold weather. Synthetics can also hold its viscosity little bit longer whether in an extreme hot temperature or in extreme cold temperature, whereas, conventional oils would lose its viscocity quicker. I would stick with what your manual says to use like 5W-30 or 10W-30 etc. Even though most people would say that synthetics oils can be changed longer then the traditional 3,000 miles or up to 20,000 miles!, i would still change the oil & filter every 3,000-5,000 miles or so( which would be about twice a year). Any oil, whether it's conventional or synthetic, will get very, very dirty during the 3,000-5,000 miles interval. If you care about your new car, i would change it no later than 5,000 miles. Also, conventional oils can cause sludge build-up whereas synthetics are advantageous in this area. They keep your engine sludge-free and even if you have sludge in your other car, they can remove sludge buildup effectively.

    Highroller
  • hi,
    perhaps adding the following check might be good:
    1. Timing belt (if you have a chain no need to check)
    2. Air filter (engine)
    3. tire inspection / rotation
    4. break oil
    5. anti-freeze

    regards
    ash
  • hi,
    perhaps a check of the dynamo would be good.
    the dynamo may not the charging the battery with enough ohms, hence the battery will over loose charge over time and will required more key clicks to start the engine.
    Take a volt meter stick the ends on the connection of the dynamo and measure the charge it produces, if not upto recommended output, then that might be one of the issues.

    regards
    ash
  • HI lapasada,
    I'm not exactly sure what causes the O2 sensors to fail but I know it can't be from your fuel. I know that premium fuel is recommended and now on my 4th maxima of every generation (except of recent) I've always put premium fuel in my cars, no exceptions and O2 sensors have gone in my vehicle too. All this to say I think it's more of a defect that anything. As my mechanic tells me, (a senior mechanic for nissan) it's very common. One possible solution that I've seen done in the past was having the sensor removed and dipped in brake cleaner fluid. I've been told that its more of a corrosion issue and in some cases can be solved through this technique.
  • You should have nissan hook your car into their computer to do a proper diagnostic of the potential problem. It can be a number of things but you won't know until the test has been done. The problem with buying some of these cars at the auction is that if there was an issue causing that light to come on, with the right equipment the light can be easily reset and would not come for up to 200-250 miles after being reset. But you just but yourself a "silent" problem.
  • It can just be timing. I had a similar experience with my max. The problem is that these cars ahave a number of O2 sensors but the diagnotic equipment can not pin point the exact one that is faulty. And even if they did pin point the problem, it's not unlikely that other might follow in it's failing.
  • I had a similar experince with my late '99 max se. It was a 5 speed manual trans. In the end the problem was my Systems Idle valve that need to be changed. When i was able to get it out of gear it would drive ok but i soon as i hit the clutch and brought the car to a neutral position it would cut off, similar to being in park. Does the problem also happen when you are in drive but at a stop?
  • As a fellow winter driver (montreal,quebec) I recommend Nokian NRW true all season tires religiously. Its a good idea to put them on seperate black rims one inch smaller than your current wheel size with a higher profile tire, (save you lots of $$). It's a little pricier that your everyday brand Michelin Alpine or Blizzaks but the control blended with their performance rating is absolutely worth it. Most rally cars in europe swear by these rubbers and so do I. I have a 01 Max. SE. As far as problems that i've notice you really can't anticipate. Keep $150.00 a month a side for general repair is probably not a terrible idea, I guess that pretty much goes for any car.
  • phopho Posts: 9
    Hi , I have a 2003 Max GLE. Lately when I drove on the rough road I heard some strange noise from the passanger side . It sounds like some coins hit each other. I know the sound was made from the car but I could not pin point the exact location. Anybody got any idea what the sound was? I know the dealer won't look at this little problem . THANKS HO
  • Where did you hear of dipping the o2 sensor in brake cleaner! LOL ! I am a Master Technician with 20 years of import knowlage, and I have to say this is the most rediculious thing I have ever heard of ! Have you ever changed the o2 sensors on a 2001 maxima? You dont just take the things out in 2 minutes and dip them in brake cleaner, then "throw them back in" to se if it is fixed......... The labor time for both sensors is 1.5 hours. They are prone to failure, so is the mass airflow sensor.
    These fourms would be alot more helpfull if people like you would refrain from posts with poor information.
  • I own a 2001 Maxima (bought last year). I've replaced 3 sensors, one in the front and both rear sensors. I was told by my service writer that Nissan has a technical service bulletin "TSB" vs. a recall on the sensors. I think the difference is that you don't really hear about the bulletins like you do the recalls. Apparently the sensors are a problem with that year and some other years as well. Thank God for warranties!!!! The total replacement cost for both rear sensors was $850 - $150 each for the sensors, $200 each for the labor and $150 to re-program the computer.

    As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.
  • I've got a 2001 Maxima (automatic, not stick) that has problems starting when it's warm/humid or raining. It will crank, but won't turnover. It usually takes 2 - 3 times to get it started. I've taken it to 3 different Nissan service centers 4 different times and they keep telling me that nothing's wrong. This is extremely annoying when I know that something is wrong!!!! :mad: They've checked the starter and the computer, but they said that no code is coming up.

    Recently, I've replaced 3 sensors, one front and two rear along with the air filter. I thought this might make a difference, but it didn't. My service writer thinks it may be electrical, but he can't pinpoint anything unless they get a code or my car acts up while they have it in the shop. This is frustrating because the problem is intermittent.

    My question is this: can something else be the problem without showing up on the computer? My friends are telling me that they think it's the ignition switch. Since I have a Nissan service contract, I can't have a backyard mechanic work on my car as it might void my warranty. Car experts, any suggestions?
  • Usually it's the starter, i don't understand how the dealer can misconcept this. IT could also be the alternator.
  • I've had alternators go out on me before and I don't think that's what's wrong in this case. I suspect that the service writer is correct in guessing that it's electrical. I just can't be sure until it gets worse or a code finally shows up. The problem is that it's intermittent and doesn't happen every day. I just don't want to end up getting stuck far from home with a car that won't start.
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