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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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  • Despite the fact that the defrost was on full blast (no heat for the rest of the van) for over 1 hour, the heavy snow that was landing on the windshield was not melting and sliding off. Speed was 40 mph. Regular blades.
  • tjytjy Posts: 39
    Hoping someone out there can help me. We have a 2002 Odyssey EX and have had a problem with the transmission. At least 4 - 5 times a week seemingly at random, when starting the car, the car will not shift out of park. None of the gear selector lights light up, not even the "P" for park and the stick on the steering column won't budge. From there we have to turn the car off, take the key and jam it down into the small hole through the top of the steering column (after popping the little plastic cover off of it), shift the car into neutral and then start it again. From there the transmission will shift for as long as the car is running but when we park it and turn it off again, we never know when it will get jammed again. Took it to the dealer, they of course won't do anything if they can't reproduce the problem so we're stuck, much like the shifter. Anyone else have this problem and know what it was so we can diagnose the problem for the mechanics/dealer....apparentely they need us to their jobs for them. Any help would be much appreciated.....THANKS!
  • Maybe you should try to have the heat on full blast coming from all vents on the dash and floor. This should help warm up the windows to melt the snow as it falls. The defogger air temperature is a little cooler to prevent/clear-up window fog-up, then the regular heated air that comes out when you have the setting to heat. I find that this works very well for me with my family of 6 in our van. I own a Dodge Grand Caravan. Hope this helps.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    Depending on the outside temperature you might be better off not putting the blower speed on high/full blast. When the blower is on full blast, the colder outside air might be cooling down your heated air too much. The slower the fan speed the hotter the air will be coming out of the vents. Next time try to use a lower blower speed (one speed lower) and see if this makes a difference

    Good luck!
  • dchoppdchopp Posts: 256
    Its in the Owners manual. Turn on the system in full auto. Turn the AC off. If the outside air is temperature ok then crank the temperature control counterclockwise to its lowest temperature setting. This bypasses the climate control and adjust the fan speed and direction mode to your taste.
  • That sounds like it might work, I'll have to try it out. If I'm not mistaken, this will work with the temp. dial set as low as 61. As soon as you turn it to 60, the system automatically goes into the air recycle mode. Forgive me if I'm mistaken. I will try FULL AUTO WITH A/C OFF. at 60 and see if I have to stay above 60 to avoid activating the air recycle mode. Sometimes all I want is to get air from outside without using the A/C. Maybe I can use your method with the front windows up, allowing the air to flow in from the vents and out of the cab via the rear pop out windows. Thanks for the info.
  • aristotlearistotle Posts: 123
    The Check-Engine-Light (CEL) came on in our 2000 Odyssey LX at 53707 miles. The code that came up was P0420 saying that the Catalytic converter efficiency was low. Honda Dealer replaced the converter and a couple of gaskets free of cost. He told my wife that the cost of repair was approximately about $700 but we didn't have to pay since it was covered under warranty.

    We have taken our Odyssey from coast to coast and it has performed like a champ. It truly is a magnificient van! I have been very happy with it.
  • My 2001 Odyssey power doors refused to open one very cold night and as the car was just out of warranty I did not want to take it to the dealer. I did call them and they said run it, turn on the heater and things should be fine. One door, did open the other did not budge so after looking around websites I found one interesting link that led me to remove a couple of fuses - the link said try #4 -on the top - the power door lock fuse - nothing! - for the hell of it I tried #5 - put it back in and now both doors are fine - the only drawback is that the check engine light is on - however as I was sitting in the driveway I know nothing is wrong with the engine - I called the dealership to offer this as a fix for anybody who wants to try it - good luck.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,960
    Lots of auto parts stores now offer a free scan of the check engine light. They can look up the number in their book and see what the code means.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I'd like some help deciding which maintenance schedule to follow.

    2001 Handbook defines "severe" driving as driving mainly in severe conditions. Driving occasionally in severe conditions, one can use the normal maintenance schedule. OK

     Living in Mesa, AZ, daytime temp gets above 90F from May to September, which is one of the conditions Honda considers to be severe. My driving style is fairly mixed; mostly commuting (25 hwy miles each way), some start-stop driving at weekends, 2 or 3 road trips per year. 12500 miles per year total.

    I'd like some help deciding which schedule to follow. I can guess what my ($85/hr) Honda dealer will say. What about other owners in hot climates?

    One solution would be to follow the normal schedule October-April, severe schedule May-September. Any comments?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Severe. You don't want Honda denying you warranty coverage if your transmission goes out 3 or 4 years from now.
  • spsepsspseps Posts: 6
    i am also getting that rattle. i took the 2002ex to 2 different dealers who said they could find nothing. i have checked for the loose brake pad, spare tire, jack, rear bumper, tail pipe, and struts. nothing! but it is quite noticable and annoying. i had a 99 and did not have that problem, which leads me to belive it may be in the rear suspension system, which is different on the 2002. i am stumped, tho, as are the dealers i saw.
  • Did you check the shock mounts? Sometimes the screws come lose or the bushings go bad.
  • kimo9kimo9 Posts: 71
    Buddy,

    Thanks for the potential fix about the brakes somehow being the culprit on the rattle.....but no dice. I'm wondering if it's ice build-up between the hood and windshield. It's been quite cold here in the NE and I can just see a little piece of ice lodge in somewhere rattling against something.

    Maybe I'm just grabbing at straws --- as they say.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    fwiw:
    our 03LX had a few annoying rattles at about the 1K mark which were quickly identified and fixed by the dealership closest to our home.

    one was a rattle which occurred when i got going about 35-40MPH and sounded at first like it might be at a point high on the driver door or rain gutter.

    however after sitting in the passenger seat with my wife driving, i could tell it was really comming from somewhere more near the driver's footwell. i thought it might be the front driver side wheel well plastic cover.

    i mentioned this to a service rep and he heard that one right away during a test drive with me and was confident he could fix it. get this: when i initially drove down to the dealership - it wasn't happening. i told this to the service writer because i didn't want to waste anyone's time. he insisted a tech ride with me.

    ...a good foreshadowing of success...

    and during that drive with the tech (he was driving), he asked me if i heard an additional intermittent but very low level rattle when we went over small bumps... on the passenger side front. i said i could, and while i had heard it before, it rarely occurred.

    he had a smile on his face and said he'd see what could be done about that one too.

    when i came back to get the car a few hours later, he said they fixed the mounting of the hood release cable, but also disassembled something at the front passenger strut tower and lubricated the interface between the strut and the body. he said it's something he's seen before.

    remember the smile? i think he knew the probable cause of both rattles before we were more than 1/4mile down the road during the test drive.

    lastly, i could be mistaken, but it seemed like they added some tiny pads to the rear hatch in a few select places that i didn't remember being there when i initially purchased the car (at another dealership mind you).

    i had noticed tiny rattles at the hatch when going over the speed bumps in my neighborhood. with those pads in place, no rattles.

    suggestion: sit in various other seats with someone else driving. locating the source and providing that information to a tech could be important in locating the root cause.

    a good customer-focused dealership and a knowlegable / confident tech rep in the car with you during a test drive so you can both experience the noise: well there's probably no substitute.

    the only rattles i hear now at 6K are because of a child's toy or sippy cup not stowed ;) -or- sometimes one of the seatbelt latches against a pillar.

    may you experience the smile. ;)
  • I bought an '02 Program Odyssey (w/16,000mi) and the only trouble I have had is with the Stereo Controls mounted on the Steering wheel. The problem is when I use the remote controls and try to decrease the volume, the volume increases. If I try to increase the volume the station or track changes. When the Station/Track button is used either nothing happens or it functions properly. I have brought it in 5 times now, they have changed the control module out 4 times and this last time they changed out the stereo itself and that was because I told them the 3rd time Lets try changing the whole shooting match, radio, wiring harness, and the switch. I know it is an insignificant and minor complaint, but I still paid My Hard Earned $20K+ and I expect every thing to work. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    PROBABLE CAUSE
    The steering shaft resistance varies because the
    ground path does not have full contact through the
    bearing.
    CORRECTIVE ACTION
    Dimple the copper shield on the steering column ball bearing in eight places..

    Dont know why your dealer has not tried this yet as the bulletin has been out since may 20th..but have them try this
  • gheimurgheimur Posts: 88
    I too am looking for a Honda/ Acura SUV or Minivan.After reading some of these posts and having the transmission go on my sister-in-laws 2002 Odyssey after 42k miles, the Hondas are not any better than a Chrysler MiniVan. I have a 95 AWD Ply Voyager with 154k that just keeps on running. Yes it had a few problems miles ago that were fixed but I hear the new ones are even more dependable and a lot cheaper price wise. If the quality of the USA cars keeps improving (my mechanic says that the Imports are not any more dependable), there should be no reason to buy foreign if you plan to keep the car 150k plus.
    Let's go USA..........
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    I too am looking for a Honda/ Acura SUV or Minivan

    the Hondas are not any better than a Chrysler MiniVan

    Let's go USA..........

    Make up your mind. Or was this just a typical basher's post?
  • axfalkaxfalk Posts: 13
    I have a 2001 Odyssey with 25K miles that I just had to replace the front brakes on. I have never replaced brakes on a car with only 25K miles on it. The dealer told me it's very common for minivans because of their weight, but somehow I seriously doubt that. Anybody else had to do the same?

    Thanks.

    _ Alex
This discussion has been closed.