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Hyundai Elantra 5-door

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Comments

  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    You're right, C/D will test cars with differences in configuration (hatch, wagon, etc.) which is very helpful, and I would like to see their take on the Elantra GT. If it was included in a CR test, it would be to compare traditional hatchbacks like the Spectra, rather than today's "five door" cars which really resemble little wagons (personally, I have always liked hatchbacks -- so roomy!).
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    C/D's comparo of 5-door cars did include some hatchbacks, e.g. the Focus ZX5. That's why I was miffed they didn't include the Elantra GT, which was one of the cars that started the resurgence of hatchbacks. I actually wrote a Letter to the Editor about it, but it wasn't published.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    I remember that comparison test as well -- it seemed to me that the Focus wagon would have been the correct model to pit against the other wagons ... oops, I mean 5-doors. If nothing else, the Elantra GT would have trounced the Focus for cargo room.

    P.S. Do me a favor and fax over your June C/D. :)
  • gaelsguygaelsguy Posts: 17
    I bought my first (2) oil filters at a dealer. The Hyundai parts man brought my attention to a small metal gasket taped to the top of each box. I was told to be sure and replace this gasket every time in order to prevent leaks. Do you get a gasket like this with filters ordered from HDK autosport?? It looks like the gasket was an after thought by Hyundai to correct an oil leak problem. Anyone have info on this? Closing in on 3k on my GT and will do the oil and filter change and Fumoto oil drain valve installation before motoring to Massachusetts in June. 1300 miles from central Fl where we live.
  • gtovritgtovrit Posts: 53
    We've been through the horn replacement process before, try going back to page 157, messages 3132 through 3151. I eventually did wire my air horn correctly, as directed, and it works great now. One thing to avoid if you are using air horns- the directions state not to place the compressor where it is subject to getting wet, i.e., the front of the car, next to the radiator. Unfortunately, this is the best place to put it. I found out their reasoning. Road spray and dirt got into the unprotected air intake port on the compressor and froze the rotary vanes in place, locking up the compressor, and making it blow fuses every time. I fixed it by taking the compressor apart, (very simple mechanism), cleaning it, and putting a plastic hose barb on the intake port with a piece of vinyl tubing hanging down to keep water from having direct entry. So far (two months) it is working just fine. I blow the horn every day just to make sure it doesn't have a chance to corrode in place. The inside of the compressor is a soft aluminum alloy, and apparently it doesn't take much dirt to get the vanes to stick.
     New topic-what exactly is supposed to be done at the 15000 mile checkup? I'd rather go to an independent mechanic for this, the dealer was a little snotty to me last time I was in.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    Sorry, James, I don't have the June C/D anymore (seems all my good mags grow legs and walk away) and I also don't have your fax number!
  • kaz6kaz6 Posts: 331
    Thanks! You have INFINITE patience to have gone through all of that for your horn. :)
    I'm going to the dealer this week to buy the a/c filter and see about a front end mask.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Posts: 322
    if u like the looks of the mask, continue. Otherwise, you may want to check into 3M's clear mask tape solution. It seals to the paint, and is fairly invisible...I am considering it, having lost three windshields in just under two years in Phoenix...lots of rocks on the roads, lots of little rock marks on my BMW.
  • ems1ems1 Posts: 48
    The nickle sized metal ring taped to the oil filter is to replace the seal on the drain plug and has nothing to do with the oil filter. It is not some kind of oversite. It is a good practice to replace this seal on the drain plug each time it is removed. If you are going to use the Fumoto valve (like I have) you don't need the metal ring since the Fumoto valve stays in place.
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    Gtovrit,

    my dealer tried to talk me into their $400 15,000 mile "recommended" service package. This seemed like a lot to me. They wanted to do a lot of stuff that wasn't listed in the maintenance manual. Things like "fuel injector flush" and spark plug cleaning.

    Then I did some research here at Edmunds (scroll up to "Ownership" then "Maintenance Guide".). Based on these figures -- and the Edmunds articles "Maintenance Madness" and "Maintenance Madness II" -- I insisted on just the items that the manual calls for and saved myself a whole bunch of money.

    Note: I did make sure to be as tactful as possible with Robert the Service Advisor. If ever I have a questionable warranty situation, I want him on my side!
  • kaz6kaz6 Posts: 331
    I don't like the looks of a mask but after having 2 cars suffer my monthly commutes to Vegas, I won't mind it being on for those short periods. My last car had the whole front end 'freckled' by a nasty sandstorm that I had to drive through. I thought about the 3M film but when the temps are in the 100's, I wouldn't want anything on the paint that would want to fuse with it. I might get some for the headlight and foglight lenses, however.
    gt_fan: great point about being tactful.
  • gaelsguygaelsguy Posts: 17
    Thanks ems1, I was "hearing" the parts man say it was for the oil filter, thinking I guess that it somehow fit over the threaded stem oil filters screw onto. I must admit it sounded rather odd at the time. You made the obvious "obvious" to me. Duh!! I feel so stupid. Tuff getting old :) but at least I have learned to laugh at myself. Thanks again. God bless
  • bri70bri70 Posts: 147
    I thought I was going crazy. With the price of gas the way it is I have been putting the recommended 87 octane in the tank. Well, I like my Elantra very much but the throttle is very poor. It is very non-linear in accelerating. Very mushy. Press down on the pedal and there was a one second delay in response.

    That is- until I started putting premium fuel in the gas tank. Stepping on the accelerator produces a steady progressive acceleration. The engine seems to run more smoothly. Better. With a little more power.

    Am I nuts? I know this goes against conventional thinking. But I have tried this out for a couple of months. I swear by it. At least for my car.
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    Around these parts, 87 octane is sold as "mid-grade". At my high altitude (7500 ft), there is a lot less air going into the cylinder, thus lower compression and less need for octane. 85 octane works great in my GT. I tried 91 octane once, but couldn't discern a difference -- other than a lighter wallet! Of course, lower compression means a serious lack of horsepower. When I hear Elantra owners complaining about now only having 135hp instead of 140, I have to laugh. I'm lucky if I've got 110!
  • donl68donl68 Posts: 31
    Hey all. I'm approaching 21k trouble free miles on my 2002 GT, I got it in June '02. There is a hesitation when accelerating in 2nd gear(manual trans). This is intermittent enough that it doesn't really bother me. One day I will have them check that out. I also ordered the parts for the rear sway bar upgrade and the metallic foot rest/pedals that I will pick up this weekend while in for the 21k service. I really love this car

    I was washing the car this past weekend and was cleaning the hatch area when I noticed something. Those shock absorber looking things(sorry I can't remember their real name) that hold the hatch up are attatched to the hatch door with bolts. On my car, they are getting extremely rusted. It hasn't even been a year yet since I had the car. When I take it in for service this weekend I am going to have them replace those rusty bolts while they can still get a grip on them. I suggest you all check them out on your cars. If i wasn't so picky about cleaning I would not have noticed it but I am glad I did. It does concern me though, I wonder what else is rusting that I cannot see. Will you all let me know if this is just my car or if this is happening on others?

    Thanks!
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    Well, at 42,500 miles, I guess something unpleasant had to happen.

    I just noticed that there are several small areas of paint on my GT's front bumper area that are bubbling. Two of these four areas have since split open, leaving paintless spots on my bumper. I always knew that thin paint was one of the Elantra's potential shortcomings, but didn't ever think something like this would happen.

    When I get the time (probably in a few months), I'll have to take it to the delaer to see if they will cover a repaint of the bumper under warranty (they should, but I feel tney may try to blame it on something else to avoid the warranty work).

    As far as the hydraulic lifts for the hatch are concerned, mine are not the least bit rusty and I have owned my GT since July 2001 - maybe there's a leak around the hatch area? Good luck!
  • kentavoskentavos Posts: 34
    Has anyone heard if there will be any significant changes to the 2004 GT? I remember a guy on here earlier claiming to be a Hyundai rep from Korea and he has stated that styling and engine changes were supposed to happen on the 2004. Any truth to this?
  • donl68donl68 Posts: 31
    Hydraulic lifts! Yes that's them. But, its not the lifts themselves that are rusty, its the bolts that attatch them to the hatch door.

    As for your paint, I am sure they will try to blame that on something hitting the bumber while driving. I was wondering, how can you tell that this was not the case?
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    Hmmm. I haven't really looked closely at the bolts that secure the hydraulic hatch lifts. My guess is that they use "coated" bolts and maybe your bolts' coatings were thin or non-exixstent. I would imagine Hyundai would replace something like this under warranty.

    As far as my paint goes, I can tell it wasn't caused by something hitting the bumper because there is no impact mark. They are simply quarter sized bubbles of paint with no cut/slit/open area, except for the two that have been there longer that have now started peeling away.

    Very strange experience.
  • gtovritgtovrit Posts: 53
    Just had my 15000 mi service done by a local mechanic. I do my own oil changes,(thank you, Fumoto), so all that was needed was an air filter (the auto parts stores around here don't stock them yet), and the inspections that are called for in the maintenance log. These are trans fluid, brake hoses, lines, pads, rotors, calipers, parking brake, exhaust pipe and muffler, suspension mounting bolts, steering gear box, linkage, boots/ball joints, driveshafts and boots, A/C refrigerant. $15 labor, $16 for the air filter. The air filter was probably a little high, but I figure the total labor comes out to about 20 minutes, so the difference on parts is negligible.
     The Hyundai dealer quoted me a price of $159, and included a tire rotation and "emissions system check". When I told them I didn't need the tires rotated, the price was $105. So, a Hyundai rotation costs $54?
     All told, I know I got as much of an inspection for $32.41 as I would have for $105. That is, a quick once-over glance. The good thing is today's cars don't need much in the way of replacement and adjustment maintenance. I think the dealers resent this loss of income and still try to push a lot of high profit, low value services on us.
  • beatles363beatles363 Posts: 13
    Has anyone else heard rattles from the dashboard. At first I thought it was comming from the passenger side, but then realized it was either from the center or driver side. It's so frustrating because i can't find where its coming from! I only hear it when i accelerate from stop, or when i hit a bump. I was thinking maybe it is from one of the vents, but i dont know.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Your rattle is coming from inside the center stack console. There are two HVAC cables that are rubbing together as you let the clutch out, my car does it in colder weather. The fix is to remove the console and separate the cables. Dealers have been doing this under warranty. I have not had mine fixed, it does not bother me.
  • beatles363beatles363 Posts: 13
    i have an automatic, does that make a difference?
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    I have a 5-speed and don't have any rattle from the dash area, only an occassional rattle from the hatch.

    Maybe the dash rattle is a screw/bolt that has come loose and is rolling around inside your dash?
  • gtovritgtovrit Posts: 53
    I had a rattle that seemed to come from the center console. I took it in, and they said it sounded just like one they had the week before. Oddly enough, it was the rearview mirror. Some sort of sympathetic vibration would make it rattle at certain speeds, replacement fixed it. The origin of the sound was really hard to pin down, though. Try holding your mirror next time you hear it, that's the simple way to check.
  • beatles363beatles363 Posts: 13
    Well it wasnt the rearview mirror, but thanks for that suggestion, because it led me to the sunglasses holder, and that was the source of the rattle. Couldve sworn it was coming from the consol. Weird.
  • spamletspamlet Posts: 22
    Was the replacement of the rearview a warranty item? I have a GLS automatic and the mirror rattles like crazy. I just haven't gotten around to fix it yet.
  • Hi,
    I'm about to purchase a 2003 hyundai elantra. I want the 5 door but I have a problem with the interion that perhaps you can help with. I have a Dog & the only interior option is leather. A few people have told me its a big risk even with seat covers. Only one or 2 have told me it may not be a problem (he's a 60 lb dog but not active in the car). Any suggestions?

    Thanks
    Bill
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    I got the five door specifically because of my 75 lb Greyhound. He's perfectly happy riding in the hatch area (with the cover removed, of course.)

    The GT's leather is of the rather inexpensive variety, but unlike most other items, cheaper is tougher when it comes to leather. That buttery-soft Connolly leather you see in Jaguars is pretty delicate, but the hides in the GT are more similar to baseball glove leather. My guess it that it would stand up to your dog pretty well.

    Speaking of which, being as Hyundais are built in Korea -- where their cultural prejudices about protein sources are somewhat different than in the U.S. -- I'm wondering about the source of the leather used in the GT. (Murphy? Murphy? Where'd you go boy?) ;-)
  • Gt fan,
    Thanks, I was thinking the same thing (about the toughness of the leather). Do you keep the seats down? I thought that might do it. If I get the leather now I'll always wonder....
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