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Hyundai Elantra 5-door

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Comments

  • kaz6kaz6 Posts: 331
    I don't like the looks of a mask but after having 2 cars suffer my monthly commutes to Vegas, I won't mind it being on for those short periods. My last car had the whole front end 'freckled' by a nasty sandstorm that I had to drive through. I thought about the 3M film but when the temps are in the 100's, I wouldn't want anything on the paint that would want to fuse with it. I might get some for the headlight and foglight lenses, however.
    gt_fan: great point about being tactful.
  • gaelsguygaelsguy Posts: 17
    Thanks ems1, I was "hearing" the parts man say it was for the oil filter, thinking I guess that it somehow fit over the threaded stem oil filters screw onto. I must admit it sounded rather odd at the time. You made the obvious "obvious" to me. Duh!! I feel so stupid. Tuff getting old :) but at least I have learned to laugh at myself. Thanks again. God bless
  • bri70bri70 Posts: 147
    I thought I was going crazy. With the price of gas the way it is I have been putting the recommended 87 octane in the tank. Well, I like my Elantra very much but the throttle is very poor. It is very non-linear in accelerating. Very mushy. Press down on the pedal and there was a one second delay in response.

    That is- until I started putting premium fuel in the gas tank. Stepping on the accelerator produces a steady progressive acceleration. The engine seems to run more smoothly. Better. With a little more power.

    Am I nuts? I know this goes against conventional thinking. But I have tried this out for a couple of months. I swear by it. At least for my car.
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    Around these parts, 87 octane is sold as "mid-grade". At my high altitude (7500 ft), there is a lot less air going into the cylinder, thus lower compression and less need for octane. 85 octane works great in my GT. I tried 91 octane once, but couldn't discern a difference -- other than a lighter wallet! Of course, lower compression means a serious lack of horsepower. When I hear Elantra owners complaining about now only having 135hp instead of 140, I have to laugh. I'm lucky if I've got 110!
  • donl68donl68 Posts: 31
    Hey all. I'm approaching 21k trouble free miles on my 2002 GT, I got it in June '02. There is a hesitation when accelerating in 2nd gear(manual trans). This is intermittent enough that it doesn't really bother me. One day I will have them check that out. I also ordered the parts for the rear sway bar upgrade and the metallic foot rest/pedals that I will pick up this weekend while in for the 21k service. I really love this car

    I was washing the car this past weekend and was cleaning the hatch area when I noticed something. Those shock absorber looking things(sorry I can't remember their real name) that hold the hatch up are attatched to the hatch door with bolts. On my car, they are getting extremely rusted. It hasn't even been a year yet since I had the car. When I take it in for service this weekend I am going to have them replace those rusty bolts while they can still get a grip on them. I suggest you all check them out on your cars. If i wasn't so picky about cleaning I would not have noticed it but I am glad I did. It does concern me though, I wonder what else is rusting that I cannot see. Will you all let me know if this is just my car or if this is happening on others?

    Thanks!
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    Well, at 42,500 miles, I guess something unpleasant had to happen.

    I just noticed that there are several small areas of paint on my GT's front bumper area that are bubbling. Two of these four areas have since split open, leaving paintless spots on my bumper. I always knew that thin paint was one of the Elantra's potential shortcomings, but didn't ever think something like this would happen.

    When I get the time (probably in a few months), I'll have to take it to the delaer to see if they will cover a repaint of the bumper under warranty (they should, but I feel tney may try to blame it on something else to avoid the warranty work).

    As far as the hydraulic lifts for the hatch are concerned, mine are not the least bit rusty and I have owned my GT since July 2001 - maybe there's a leak around the hatch area? Good luck!
  • kentavoskentavos Posts: 34
    Has anyone heard if there will be any significant changes to the 2004 GT? I remember a guy on here earlier claiming to be a Hyundai rep from Korea and he has stated that styling and engine changes were supposed to happen on the 2004. Any truth to this?
  • donl68donl68 Posts: 31
    Hydraulic lifts! Yes that's them. But, its not the lifts themselves that are rusty, its the bolts that attatch them to the hatch door.

    As for your paint, I am sure they will try to blame that on something hitting the bumber while driving. I was wondering, how can you tell that this was not the case?
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    Hmmm. I haven't really looked closely at the bolts that secure the hydraulic hatch lifts. My guess is that they use "coated" bolts and maybe your bolts' coatings were thin or non-exixstent. I would imagine Hyundai would replace something like this under warranty.

    As far as my paint goes, I can tell it wasn't caused by something hitting the bumper because there is no impact mark. They are simply quarter sized bubbles of paint with no cut/slit/open area, except for the two that have been there longer that have now started peeling away.

    Very strange experience.
  • gtovritgtovrit Posts: 53
    Just had my 15000 mi service done by a local mechanic. I do my own oil changes,(thank you, Fumoto), so all that was needed was an air filter (the auto parts stores around here don't stock them yet), and the inspections that are called for in the maintenance log. These are trans fluid, brake hoses, lines, pads, rotors, calipers, parking brake, exhaust pipe and muffler, suspension mounting bolts, steering gear box, linkage, boots/ball joints, driveshafts and boots, A/C refrigerant. $15 labor, $16 for the air filter. The air filter was probably a little high, but I figure the total labor comes out to about 20 minutes, so the difference on parts is negligible.
     The Hyundai dealer quoted me a price of $159, and included a tire rotation and "emissions system check". When I told them I didn't need the tires rotated, the price was $105. So, a Hyundai rotation costs $54?
     All told, I know I got as much of an inspection for $32.41 as I would have for $105. That is, a quick once-over glance. The good thing is today's cars don't need much in the way of replacement and adjustment maintenance. I think the dealers resent this loss of income and still try to push a lot of high profit, low value services on us.
  • beatles363beatles363 Posts: 13
    Has anyone else heard rattles from the dashboard. At first I thought it was comming from the passenger side, but then realized it was either from the center or driver side. It's so frustrating because i can't find where its coming from! I only hear it when i accelerate from stop, or when i hit a bump. I was thinking maybe it is from one of the vents, but i dont know.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Your rattle is coming from inside the center stack console. There are two HVAC cables that are rubbing together as you let the clutch out, my car does it in colder weather. The fix is to remove the console and separate the cables. Dealers have been doing this under warranty. I have not had mine fixed, it does not bother me.
  • beatles363beatles363 Posts: 13
    i have an automatic, does that make a difference?
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    I have a 5-speed and don't have any rattle from the dash area, only an occassional rattle from the hatch.

    Maybe the dash rattle is a screw/bolt that has come loose and is rolling around inside your dash?
  • gtovritgtovrit Posts: 53
    I had a rattle that seemed to come from the center console. I took it in, and they said it sounded just like one they had the week before. Oddly enough, it was the rearview mirror. Some sort of sympathetic vibration would make it rattle at certain speeds, replacement fixed it. The origin of the sound was really hard to pin down, though. Try holding your mirror next time you hear it, that's the simple way to check.
  • beatles363beatles363 Posts: 13
    Well it wasnt the rearview mirror, but thanks for that suggestion, because it led me to the sunglasses holder, and that was the source of the rattle. Couldve sworn it was coming from the consol. Weird.
  • spamletspamlet Posts: 22
    Was the replacement of the rearview a warranty item? I have a GLS automatic and the mirror rattles like crazy. I just haven't gotten around to fix it yet.
  • Hi,
    I'm about to purchase a 2003 hyundai elantra. I want the 5 door but I have a problem with the interion that perhaps you can help with. I have a Dog & the only interior option is leather. A few people have told me its a big risk even with seat covers. Only one or 2 have told me it may not be a problem (he's a 60 lb dog but not active in the car). Any suggestions?

    Thanks
    Bill
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    I got the five door specifically because of my 75 lb Greyhound. He's perfectly happy riding in the hatch area (with the cover removed, of course.)

    The GT's leather is of the rather inexpensive variety, but unlike most other items, cheaper is tougher when it comes to leather. That buttery-soft Connolly leather you see in Jaguars is pretty delicate, but the hides in the GT are more similar to baseball glove leather. My guess it that it would stand up to your dog pretty well.

    Speaking of which, being as Hyundais are built in Korea -- where their cultural prejudices about protein sources are somewhat different than in the U.S. -- I'm wondering about the source of the leather used in the GT. (Murphy? Murphy? Where'd you go boy?) ;-)
  • Gt fan,
    Thanks, I was thinking the same thing (about the toughness of the leather). Do you keep the seats down? I thought that might do it. If I get the leather now I'll always wonder....
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