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What is up with Hyundai brakes? Anyone else had similar experience? Or am I being fed a load of crap and possibly other problems account for excessive brake wear?
Alex
I had a problem earlier where the parking brake cable broke and rear brakes wouldn't release. Had it fixed but suspect that somehow that caused the brakes to wear out. Just don't know how to prove that.
I had a problem earlier where the parking brake cable broke and rear brakes wouldn't release. Had it fixed but suspect that somehow that caused the brakes to wear out. Just don't know how to prove that.
my wife is not easy on them. Fronts do usually
go first.
my guess is that dealer one just wants you to pay the full price rather than submit it to warranty for a reduced price...from what you are saying, it DOES dound like it relates back to your parking brake issue.
for what it is worth, some brakes are not built to last - the previous generation Volvo S40 was notorious for wearing out pads every 10-15k...but that is unusual and caused alot of frustration by owners. If Elantra pads only could handle 17k miles - I think we would have some real complaints going around about it.
you are getting the run around.
Might be able to get the brakes looked at and on special if you have a dealer you like.
My dealer knows me well and takes care of me on all sorts of small stuff.
ElantraStan
If you are seeing rear brakes wearing out in less than 40K, something is not right.
Of course, give the automakers a few more years and this won't be much of an issue anymore. It's the same when the IIHS started its offset crash tests in the mid 90's. Lots of cars didn't do too well back then.
My '01 GLS has one remote with a hair-trigger. All it takes is the slightest touch to lock the doors. That remote just failed, and I got a new one (under warranty). It doesn't seem nearly as sensitive. The remote was redesigned for '04 so that the buttons are depressed, making it harder to trigger accidentally.
The Elantra I think at this point can more or less be considered a safe, reliable car.
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Bill
My 2004 GT 5-door and a GLS rental I drove both locked doors 30 seconds after you hit the unlock button on the remote if you did not opened any doors. That way the car will not stay unlocked if you accidentally hit the unlock by mistake.
inharmsway
if your vehicle is locked and the key fob is used to unlock the car (intentional or not) but the car remains unopened for 30 seconds, the car will once again arm and lock all the doors. This will disable as soon as any door is opened.
if currently unlocked:
if your vehicle is unlocked and at least one door (though not the hatch) has been opened, or if you have just exited from a running car, it should remain open. Failure to remain open is a service issue that should be addressed quickly.
Big difference maker is, was you in, or was you out?
If locked and u use a fob to unlock, u have 30 seconds to get it open before it re-locks. (preventing the inadvertent leaving on your car unlocked when putting your fob in a pocket and tripping the unlock button)
If it is open, it should lock unless activated by the fob.
A possible alignment, but I would put money on a bad out or round tire..
Let us know what you find.
What concerns me the most is the replacement fluid they used- DEXRON III.
Did I mess up my car? The car is presently running fine. The shifts are better than before but I can find no mention of Dexron III being okay for Hyundai transmissions. I told the tech to make sure a Hyundai approved fluid is used. He responded not worry that it is a standard transmission fluid and it should work fine. Should I spend another 100 something dollars to have it removed?
Thanks, in advanced.
"As has been stated many times in this newsgroup, Hyundai AT's *don't* use Dexron III/Mercon V AT fluid, and using it will royally screw up your
AT (but it's better than nothing in an emergency).
Hyundai uses a variety of Type 7176, a/k/a ATF++3 tranny fluid, which is more viscous than Dexron III. They aren't interchangeable, and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is *not* a substitute, unfortunately."
KEEP YOUR JIFFY LUBE RECEIPT, and scream bloody murder at the owner of the franchise. When you can prove that you are in the right, you have no business paying $100+ to remedy a problem they caused. In the future, also, you might keep a printout of the Elantra's manufacturer-recommended maintenance schedule with you whenever you walk into a place that'll try to upsell you services you might not need, and that might (if they replaced the wrong fluid, for instance) do more harm than good.
I used to use Jiffy Lube back when I owned a '95 Sonata - it was thoroughly blown out, and I felt it wasn't worth my time to do oil changes myself. Come to think of it, I ditched that car because the transmission failed again 57k after I sunk $2300 into rebuilding it the first time it failed; maybe this is why. On the other hand, since I bought my Elantra last April, nobody touches it so far unless they're me or the dealer, and I went to the trouble to learn how to fiddle under the hood and with the car up on jackstands for things like oil changes and tire rotation. It's worth it to me.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
As for Jiffy Lube, I would either demand a refund for the tranny service since they used a non specified fluid (show them your manual; I'm quite sure it specifies not to use Dexron) and take it to Hyundai to have the service done or buy enough fluid from a Hyundai dealer and take it to Jiffy and request that they redo the service with your fluid while you watch (request a discount since they are using your fluid). If you do the latter, just keep the receipts for the fluid and the Jiffy service in your manual. The Jiffy receipt should specify that they used the customer supplied ATF SP III. That way you are covered if the tranny fails before 100k.
This is not something to fool around with for sure. I'm friends with a Mitsubishi service advisor who said he has seen many failed trannys due to using Dexron fluid (Mitsu requires the same fluid as Hyundai). And I'm sure the owners blame the car for being unreliable when in fact it's their negligence for using the wrong fluid.
Two weeks ago I had a small tiff with my Hyundai dealer when I had my Elantra in for a "check engine light" condition. He informed me that a speed sensor related to my transmission needed to be replaced under warranty. He then told me that I needed my transmission "tuned" and for $300 he can have my transmission flushed and in good working order.
I was having none of it as I thought I could get the same service done for much much less. That was the core problem. I took it for granted that the dealer was right in that at 30k miles I was in need of a tranny flush. I did not bother to check the manual. When the Jiffy Lube tech offered the T-Tech service, I immediately took him up on it.
Oh, the irony. I may have to slink back to this dealer to get a service that was unnecessary before, but right now has become imperative.
I may try AAMCO first. My dealer's prices are very high and I resent their attempt on making me spend extra money unecessarily. I understand that I may have left myself with little choice in the matter.
Thanks again.
Find yourself a good mechanic and stick with him (or her as the case may be), go to him if you need anything more than an oil change (and you can't do the work yourself). It might be at the dealer, but some of the best mechanics work at greasey garages... at least that is my experience.
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Bill
I actually think I could haggle them down on a tranny flush if I though the price was too high.
I let them change the oil every 3 to 4K miles and they know me well. I get taken care of well over there and for $19.95 I can't go anywhere else and get my oil changed any cheaper.
I am a great negotiator, it never hurts to ask for cheaper prices, discounted rates and special
deals.. all they can say is no.
ElantraStan