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Hyundai Elantra 5-door

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  • Well I wanted a small good looking car, spacious and inexpensive. I narrowed it down to a PT Cruiser, Protege-5 and a Elantra GT. They all are good and have there pros and cons but I went with the GT. I am no youngster,so I wanted something with a European flare. Actually I am glad that I did not find this site until after my purchase since I would be completely confused. Anyhow I have a good looking Carbon Blue and I am happy with my choice. The suspension is a bit tight and the seats could be softer but it's just fine for a around town commuter. I went through Costco and it was a great experience and the price was right. My question: Where can I get an inexpensive lip spoiler? $180 is the cheapest I could find on the internet and that's a bit much for a piece of back metal! Thanks
  • The Sorrento is not a replacement for the Sportage. It is a larger vehicle that will be in the lineup with the Sportage until that car is redesigned (yes, on the Elantra platform).
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My friend who now has possession of my 00 Accent ran into the same problem! He got the oil changed 1500 miles ago and in the past few weeks noticed oil spots in his garage. He got under the car and noticed the plug was loose. He retightened it but that didn't stop it from leaking. He took it back to the quick oil lube place and they claimed the original plug had stripped threads. They replaced it with a new plug and so far the leakage has stopped. Hyundai may need to look into this problem. Maybe make a plug with stronger threads?
  • I think the problem is with the oil pan, not the plug.
  • When is Hyundai going to address this issue? New cars should not require aftermarket parts to fix design problems.
  • desgdesg Posts: 52
    It's more a human problem than a design problem I suspect.

    The pan is aluminium not pressed steel like most manufacturers use - these used aluminium for rigidity and to reduce noise. The design calls for a fresh crushable washer to be used plus a certain torque setting.

    I bet neither of these are being followed
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    I have to agree with Desg. This is not a design issue, and the problem is neither with the plug or the pan, but the people doing the oil changes.

    As for the 2000 Accent referenced in message 2617 -- I would bet that the pan is steel on that car which makes the ineptitude even worse.

    Hyundai cannot account for all the poorly trained people who attempt to do simple oil changes and fail to do a proper job. Any so called mecahnic who can't thread a bolt in a hole should not be working on anything mechanical.

    Dealership "mechanics" are no better than anyone else in this regard, since most of the time those assigned the task of changing the oil are the lowest guys on the totem pole ... the kid apprentices.

    Last oil change I had done by someone else was at the dealer. The moron who put the plug in must have used an air wrench, because I could not get the plug out. I had to waste my time to go to my nearby Midas (the dealer was full on the Saturday I called to tell them about the error of their ways) and two people there had to spend over 5 minutes and use various tools before putting vice-grips on the oil pan plug. The head of the plug was ruined obviously.

    If the person at the dealer had used a crushable oil plug washer and torqued it to spec there would have been no problem with me getting it off. I now have a Fumoto Oil Drain valve installed so that people changing my oil (if not me) can do this without waking up their brains.
  • Thanks for all the response to my plea for help. Could anyone tell me if it is possible to get a Fumato Oil Drain valve installed on my "damaged" oil pan, and any suggestion as to who I might get to install it? At this point, I'm reluctant to go back to the dealer whose only recommended solution is to spend $500.00 for a new oil pan. Wouldn't the replacement pan be as likely to be damaged by the next inexperienced person trying to change the oil as the original one was?
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    I doubt that you could install the oil drain valve in the ruined threaded hole in your oil pan.

    The valve fits the original threads, and your oil pan's hole would need to have the threads re-cut, and since you need to make the hole bigger to do this, I think you're SOL.

    I think you need to fight with that dealer and get a new oil pan installed. Then install the oil drain valve.
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    I agree with wmoses that you're probably out of luck on adding a Fumoto valve to your existing oil pan, but you might check back with the Jiffy Lube guy to see if he can tell you what the thread pattern is on the new plug that they put in. You could then check with the Fumoto customer service people to see if they have a model that matches that thread pattern. They have applications to match most vehicles and they might just have a match. Good luck!
  • We have a 2001 Elantra GT with 20,000 miles. The oil has always been changed at the selling dealer - Monday of this week, they discovered the drain plug threads stripped, and replaced the oil pan under warranty. This is exactly why I am a firm beleiver in letting the dealer do all of the messy maintenance. By going back to the dealer, you may pay more than at some other lube places, but you also develop a relationship with the service writers, and get more personalized, reliable service. Then, if you ever have a real problem with your car, they may take better car of you (loaner car, move you ahead of the line, wash job, etc) , as they will know that you have been a loyal customer. When the 30,000 mile maintenance comes up next year, I will gladly pay Hub Hyundai (Houston) to replace the trans fluid, filters, coolant, and whatever else is stated in the owner's manual. That way they keep record of all that happens. Don't just hit the dealer up for all the freebies like warranty work, because you will appear less valuable to them. It is possible to become a valuable "good customer", but you cannot get it for free!
  • I'm amazed at people who try to do a simple task, but never even bother to look at the directions! If the manual say "torque to 15 ft/lbs" then do JUST that! Not "one grunt", or "a little past snug".
    Most quick lube joints hire people with little to no mechanical knowledge, and dealers pawn "simple jobs" off on cheap labor. Save yourself time, money and aggravation and do your own maintenance... you'll probably enjoy your car more!
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    jlgolden says --

    "The oil has always been changed at the selling dealer - Monday of this week, they discovered the drain plug threads stripped, and replaced the oil pan under warranty. ... When the 30,000 mile maintenance comes up next year, I will gladly pay Hub Hyundai (Houston) to replace the trans fluid, filters, coolant, and whatever else is stated in the owner's manual."

    Well that is the same dealer that did the oil change on my GT and overtightened the oil plug. I also bought my car from Hub Hyundai.

    They are not bad, as a dealer, and I would get other warranty work done there I suppose (as opposed to another Hyundai dealer) but when it comes to oil changes I would think twice .... Even with my Fumoto valve in place.

    Or at least don't get it done on a Saturday when they tell you up front they don't have real mechanics working.
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 366
    I read the post by vocus on Sep 23, 2002 (Elantra sedan board) regarding the mileage that he gets with his Elantra 5spd. I have been seriously weighing a Elantra GT against a Honda EX, and the mileage could be a signinficant factor for me. Is Vocus' 34 mpg in mixed driving and 40+ on long stretchs typical or a fluke? How are the rest of you doing in the fuel econo category with your 2001-2001 Elantra GT 5 5pds?
  • I drive somewhat aggressively. My 2001 GT 5-spd (15,300 mi.) averages 27-28 mpg in mostly urban/suburban driving, and 32-33 mpg on the highway (70-80 mph). I could get better local mpg if I upshifted earlier, but I like to keep the engine within it's optimal torque range for quicker acceleration. If high mpg is paramount, buy the Civic; if not, the Elantra's got it beat in almost every other category.
  • desgdesg Posts: 52
    I'm not convinced a MPG comparison of a Civic to an Elantra is really comparing apples to apples. The only similarity seems to be price between these two, size, weight, features etc seem vastly different.

    When you are talking 4 cylinder vehicles you really get many more categories than in larger cars 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.0L all give very different results and weight is also a critical factor in this size vehicle, whereas say in 3.5L, 3.8L & 4.0L comparisons (which are the sizes of our standard 6 cylinder family cars here) you tend to get much smaller differences.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    This year, I think there's just a Sorento, although I'm sure Kia has lots of 02's to unload. Next year's (04) Sportage replacement will be on an Elantra platform, although that seems a bit odd because the Elantra is due for replacement in 06 if Hyundai's typical replacement cycle is adhered to.
  • Why is that odd? It beats waiting to replace that already old Sportage till '06. Subaru did the same thing during a single model year with the Forester. That car is based on the previous Impreza, and this year's restyling was just that, even though a new Impreza platform was introduced. They are just getting the most mileage from existing platforms. American manufacturers really know how to stretch those platform dollars, too.
  • My 2002 GT, manual transmission with 16K miles, has been a great choice. I commute it like crazy through SoCal and initiated it with a 3000 mile road trip through the Rockies this summer (where I left my brother and his bloated Explorer in the dust while climbing the mountain roads!).

    I notice when accelerating hard, like on a freeway onramp, that the engine bogs down a little bit around 3800 RPM (regardless of what gear its in), then bursts with power right at 4000 RPM. Both dealers I've taken it to put it on the computer and say all is within specs. Anyone else experience this?
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    gt_jenk asks --


    "I notice when accelerating hard, like on a freeway onramp, that the engine bogs down a little bit around 3800 RPM (regardless of what gear its in), then bursts with power right at 4000 RPM. ... Anyone else experience this? "


    Yes ... this is the characteristic of the Beta engine. There is a "flat spot" around that area of the torque curve.


    See http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/gt3.shtml

  • wmoses

    Thanks for the reply, and I dig your site.
  • I find it odd that Hyundai still shows a picture of the gauges on the Elantra GT on their website that does not represent what they look like. It indicates white letters with a purple background.

    Go to Hyundai's website and click on Elantra and you'll see what I mean. I don't know which one I think looks better, but I'm happy with what I have. Everyone comments on them.

    www.hyundaiusa.com
  • With all the talk re stripped oil pan plus...REMEMBER that although the manual (at least mine) says
    4 1/2 quarts w/filter. It is SUPPOSED to be 3 1/2 quarts w/filter. I know this has been addressed in the past but it is very important. Before having the dealer change my oil with their "special offer" I called, they said 3 1/2 quart and sure enough they put in too much oil. The same happened the one time i had it changed on my Santa Fe. Please be aware of this...too much oil is as bad as not enough oil.
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    I posted a message in the Elantra sedan board about the GLS's 2nd place showing in a 10 car test of inexpensive sedans. (BTW, the Suzuki Aerio GS place 9th.)
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Wow, that's so cool to see Hyundai finally beat Honda and Toyota in a comparison test! What was the 0-60 figure, top speed, and skidpad for the Elantra? I hope they tested 5-speeds? I won't be seeing that magazine for at least another week if not more :(
  • bri70bri70 Posts: 147
    Yes, finally Hyundai gets a straight compliment without a caveat thrown in at the end.

    The GLS beat the just released Corolla and was just one point out of first place which went to the Mazda Protege.

    I would have loved to see how the GT would have placed. The standard equipment and tighter suspension may have been enough for it to garner the pole position.
  • gt_fangt_fan Posts: 159
    The Car and Driver test specs for 0-60, top speed, skidpad, lane change and tested fuel economy:

    Protege LX: 9.2 117(gov) .75g 59.9mph 24mpg
    Elantra GLS: 8.5 113(gov) .75g 55.4mph 26mpg
    Corolla LE: 8.2 115(gov) .74g 59.4mph 33mpg
    Civic LX: 9.3 113(gov) .76g 56.5mph 30mpg

    The Elantra posted good numbers throughout, with the exception of the lane change where the GLS's softer suspension made it slower than all but the Suzuki. (The GT would have probably done much better here.) Where the Hyundai really did well, though, was in the subjective judgments. The editors really liked driving the car, praising it's seats, steering, engine, control feedback and spacious cockpit. They also singled out what I felt was one of the best things about the car, but could never quite put into words: "There's an honest, no-monkey-business purposefulness about the way this Elantra moves.". "Looks like this Korean maker has arrived".
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,692
    Protege only gets 24 mpg?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • bluong1bluong1 Posts: 1,927
    24mph doesn't seem right. Protege engines are notorious for fully breaking in only after few thousand miles. I currently own a Protege5, which has the same 2.0L engine than the Protege LX, and average consistently between 29-30mpg (70% Hwy at 80mph, 30% City, window down or AC on). Of course my driving habit is different than the condition used in C&D testing. However, for comparison purpose my previous car is a Civic ES, which gave me an average of 32mpg. So my guess is the true number would be around 27mpg.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The Elantra came withing one point of winning? It could have went either way it seems. Is it just me, or does the Protege/Protege5 win every C&D comparo that they are in? People say that C&D is biased towards BMWs, I guess they're biased towards Proteges too.
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