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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • baltychenbaltychen Posts: 50
    After you have reset your Change Engine oil system, did your Change Engine Oil light flashes to signal that the computer has been reset?
  • envoysleenvoysle Posts: 20
    vtrip7, you are not alone... I have an Envoy SLE 4x4 with cloth seating. And I have the same problem, driver AND passenger seat squeak when braking and accelerating.

    I'm going to tell the dealer about this during my next checkup, witch should be very soon.

    I don't have any other problem with it, running great, so far. 4500km on it, checkup at 5000.

    I did not get the Bose sound system, and regret it now. the sound of the standard delco is good but the bases are so un-natural. I'm renting the thing, so i can't do big modification on it.... Any suggestions ? Thanks!
  • cmack4cmack4 Posts: 302
    Has anyone taken the time to switch to synthetic with their triplet and get the oil analysis performed? What kind of extended drain interval pattern did you see? I'm weighing the benefits of switching over to synth for my Bravada, but I'm leaning toward sticking with dino and 3k oil changes. Also if you switched, when did you switch and did it have any effect on oil consumption?

    Craig
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    I've read that adding a quart (or maybe two in this case as the engine hold 7 qts) of synthetic
    to the regular oil gives many of the benefits of pure synthetic at reduced cost. I can't imagine using synthetics if I change my oil every 3000 miles. I think I will add a quart of synthetic and change at 5000 miles (or before if the oil life sensor tells me to). I know people who go 10-12000 miles between oil changes with synthetics.
    I can't imagine the filter lasting that long!

    GAM
  • Hey Gang,

    I remember awhile ago, we touched base on purchasing the HID Xenon bulbs for our triplets. Someone on this forum recommended www.carlights.net and stated that this is the "best buy/value" for the money and also the "closest to true HID lights on the market today."

    Well, after carefully researching the various brands, I decided to give these bulbs a shot on my 02 Pontiac Grand AM GT1 before purchasing the bulbs for my Envoy. I installed the bulbs today and BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE they make! The stock bulbs are VERY yellow in comparison to these lights. The new lights give off a much more "brilliant" white light without having that cheap blue effect that you notice on the road today. If anyone would like to see before and after pics, please let me know. I will be more than happy to forward you copies of the pics that I have on file.

    I am going to test these lights for the next 30 days before buying some for my 02 Envoy. The bulbs cost $39.95 for a pair, so I decided to start with the Grand Am first since there is only one pair of headlight bulbs in the housing unit.

    Thanks!

    Dennis D.

    IExplore2000@aol.com
  • tlaurotlauro Posts: 504
    GAM2 WROTE:"I've read that adding a quart (or maybe two in this case as the engine hold 7 qts) of synthetic to the regular oil gives many of the benefits of pure synthetic at reduced cost."

    I wouldn't say that just adding a part of the oil as synthetic is going to add the same benefit. I use strictly synthetic oils just due to the fact that I run most of my vehicles pretty hard on the road and at the track for 1/4 mile runs. Again, synthetic will flow better, stay consistant and extend the oil change intervals.

    GAM2 WROTE:"I can't imagine using synthetics if I change my oil every 3000 miles.... know people who go 10-12000 miles between oil changes with synthetics.....I can't imagine the filter lasting that long!"

    Well, on my GTP since it's at the track quite often and I do have some heavier performance mods done to it, I tend to change the oil between 3-5k miles. But then the oil life monitor will reflect the runs at the track pretty well. Without running the 1/4 mile in the winter, it will tell me about every 7,500 miles. In the summer it will bump me to 3-5k miles between changes. Works well.

    My wifes Toyota back in 97 went 12,000 miles between changes and today has over 105,000 miles on it with the new owner doing the same. Her current Alero like the GTP, runs at the track and now has 18k miles on it with 7,500 miles between changes.

    My LTZ only has about 7000 miles on it and I did change it at 6,000 with the next at about 12,000 or so.

    Just my nickels worth.

    tim
  • tlaurotlauro Posts: 504
    Since I've received so many emails regarding how to get dealers to resolve the mirror issue, I've since hunkered down and updated my site. Check out http://www.timlauro.com/cars/trailblazer/problems-page.html for more information.

    Also, here are the part numbers that I've also outlined on my web site.

    Replace the control modules you have having issues on with:

    Special Order 15097470
    Special Order 15097471

    These should be the same for all the triplets, but for the record, I have an 02 Trailblazer LTZ.

    Email me with any questions. Happy to help.

    tim
    1999 GTP @ 13.689
    2000 Alero "GT" @ 15.591
    2002 Trailblazer LTZ @ 15.675
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,865
    Olds Still Alive And Kicking With Bravada

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • cmack4cmack4 Posts: 302
    Is it just me, or do the rear ends of your vehicles always attract dirt? I have four coats of Zaino on my Bravada and the rear end still attracts dirt right by the step and sill area.

    gam2 - I think I'm going to go with a 5/2 split with Mobil/Mobil 1 and stick with 3K changes. Maybe I'll eventually switch to full synth, but for now I'd rather change every 3K.
  • icojonesicojones Posts: 61
    Whenever I go over a bump (or pothole) in my TB LTZ, there is a squeak that seems to come from the back passenger side. The best way to describe the sound is that it sounds like sneakers squealing on a basketball court.

    Anyone know what that is?
  • dyfinedyfine Posts: 11
    To those of you who have been disappointed with the gas mileage on your triplet - there's hope! I tend to drive 65/35 Hwy/City. I am in MN where recently, the temps have been in the 20s. After 3,000 miles of consistent mid 15MPG performance - my last tank netted me a 19.59 MPG performance! It's probably coincidental (I don't know much about mechanics, but I'm guessing it has no impact), but the increased performance occurred right after my first oil/filter change. Those of you who are guzzling gas - give your car time to "break-in" and it may get better...
  • vindog45vindog45 Posts: 35
    my 02 tb ltz also shook and made loud vibrating noises , when i opened just one back window, and all others shut tight...i dont think theres much GM can do but tell you not to do it...i doubt theres a fix for that..........i also have weather shields on back windows too..........still no problems with mine...build date 02/02/02
  • paulpropaulpro Posts: 56
    I think I had the same thing, some times the squeak sounded like the back seat, some times undr the dash. Turns out it was the HOOD! There are a couple adjustable stand-offs at each front corner. when the hood racks as you go over a bump, there is enough friction to generate a squeak. A little grease and it went away

    Hope this helps with yours

    Paul P
  • My ISP finally got it's act together, so my sites back up with updated pics, including the rear air deflector and it's install sheet. For those that are not registered the URL is http://users2.ev1.net/~giddens_john/ and all you got to do is click on pics. If anyone encounters errors let me know, and if any one has any questions or advice let me know.
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    Let me clarify, adding a quart of synthetic gives some, not all of the benefits of pure synthetic.
    It will not equal the pure synthetic, but will give added performance compared to straight oil.
    This came from a major oil producer. That's why there are semi-synthetics on the market.

    As to change intervals, I just can't see going 10-12000 miles on an oil change, synthetic or not. I read these long term tests in magazines where their BMW asks for its' first oil change at 10000+ miles. It seems crazy that someone would spend $40000 on a car and try to skimp on oil changes.

    As to synthetics, obviously they must be good. Otherwise GM wouldn't put it in 'Vettes straight from the factory.

    GAM2
  • scottc454scottc454 Posts: 356
    It's not a case of skimping on oil changes. The oil simply lasts that long. The only places that recommend changing your oil every 3000 miles are places that make money changing oil.

    I know a lot of people insist on changing oil every 3000 miles and think that anyone who thinks otherwise is crazy, but keep in mind that oil technology has come a long way. Engines last longer than ever nowadays.

    As for synthetics and synthetic blends, the more synthetic you have the better. Basically, regular oil contains a blend of many chemicals, which are comprised of chains of hydrogen and carbon. Some are short chained, thin chemicals, some medium chained, and some longer chained, thicker, more tarlike chemicals. The thicker, long chained chemicals are more prone to breaking into smaller chained chemicals, causing the oil to get thinner over time.

    If you took this regular oil and just kept the medium sized chemicals, you'd have something that would have the same viscosity, but wouldn't have the long chained chemicals to break down. This is synthetic oil.

    I guess none of this is that important if what they say is true, that most of the engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is in the oil pan instead of on bearings, pistons, valvetrain components, etc. It doesn't matter how good the oil is if it's not where it's supposed to be.

    I throw a quart of Slick 50 in every once in a while, but who knows if helps?
  • elt93722elt93722 Posts: 7
    You mentioned your TB exhibited air "drumming" when both rear windows down. Did you try driving with just one rear window all the way down? The vibration is hard enough going at about 40 mph that I don't dare go any faster. Post #4290 indicated that even with weather shields, the vibration exists. I'm concerned about going >70 mph on the freeway and one of the rear windows somehow goes all the way down.
  • pepper50pepper50 Posts: 195
    Nice photos of your good-looking pewter Bravada. Thanks for the info about part numbers, etc. and the other links.
    And would you please describe the vinyl floor mats you mention. I can't find a picture of them on any of the GM parts sites. Are they the exact size of the carpeted floormats that were standard or are they bigger? And are they heavy duty; i.e. thick? I guess I'm assuming you got them?
    Thanks.
  • edl55347edl55347 Posts: 46
    I was just curious after reading post 4273 by johntr how many people have the TB LT and have memory settings for the seats??

    Secondly, I have driven many different rental cars from all the major manufacturers and found that all the cars would have a 'drumming' or 'helicopter' sound when both rear windows were down. So this is not unique to the triplets.
  • edl55347edl55347 Posts: 46
    I ordered the 'factory' look running boards from gmpartsdirect.com for my TB, part 12497885. It took about 2 weeks to get them. It took me about 45 minutes to install both. There are 12 bolts for each side so it can take a little while to tighten them all down. I also have the mud guards and did NOT have to remove them to install the boards.
    It looks great now!
  • I don't have them yet, but I'm ready to order them as soon as gmpartsdirect.com will email me confirming the part number for the cargo area tray. I'll copy the text description from the Bravada accessories catalog about the vinyl floor mats.

    These floor mats conform to the interior contours of your vehicle for an excellent fit and a custom look. The grid pattern collects rain, snow, dust, and dirt to protect the floor from damage. A ribbed backing helps hold the mats in place. Front mats feature the Bravada logo.

    There is two color choices pewter, and oak. While I haven't seen them myself the description sounds convincing to me.

    The reason I haven't put the oak part numbers up is because I haven't confirmed they are correct from gmpartsdirect.com and I would hate to have someone order the wrong part just because I have it on my fledgling fan site. I have a lot more part numbers from the Bravada accessories catalog, so can I ask the forum members for an opinion.

    Should I go ahead and put all the part numbers up on my home page even though I can't be certain they are correct?

    Thanks in advance for any opinions on putting up all the part numbers.
  • How difficult was it to install the air deflector? It looks great! Since you installed the deflector, does the rear window and liftgate stay cleaner? I installed one on a '92 Lumina APV and noticed that the liftgate remained cleaner longer.
  • jw4gmjw4gm Posts: 27
    The subject seems to have run its course, but there are still many of us with seat mounting brackets exposed. If anyone out there has a part number for the covers, please post. Or if they are available from other sources, please identify. My GMC dealer insists he cannot identify them by number. Thanks.
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Posts: 194
    Nice Info on site, what is the part #, source and price on the rr air defector. Thanks
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    honda (2)
    enron (2)
    envoy (2)
    acura (3)
    trailblazer (3)
    What does this all mean? I don't know.
  • noller2gnoller2g Posts: 60
    Someone said:

    "It seems crazy that someone would spend $40000 on a car and try to skimp on oil changes." and then went on to say they would mix 5 qts regular and 2 qts synthetic. I don't comprehend.


    Go to Autozone and get a Mobil1 oil filter ($9). Go to Wallmart and get a 5qt container of Blue Cap 5W30 Mobil1 ($18) and two one quart bottles of the same stuff ($9). Total cost is $36. Change your oil, and reset your computer.


    Drive car.


    When computer tells you, repeat.


    If you insist on doing it at 3000 miles, just use a Fram filter and Valvoline All-Climate 5W30. Cost is about $15.


    But I would never mix oil. If you have to have a blend, buy a blend. My research indicated most blends are not as good as Valvoline All-Climate Dino oil.


    Also, 3000 miles of city driving to work and back less than a mile each way and no other driving will for sure mean your oil is high in unburned gasoline, with reduced viscosity (I know this from a sample I had tested on my Lincoln LS).


    Opinions on Oil are like mosquitos. Plentiful and a pain. These are just mine. But I've got more important things to do with my time and money than try to out think the folks that do this for a living.


    If you want to learn about oil, here are some links. Some are for motorcycles, but motorcyclists are more tuned to the needs of their motors needs than most non-racing auto enthusiasts. Another opinion.


    http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm talks about do bikes need a specific oil, but has usefull info on the differences in synthetics vs blends.


    http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm Is a scientifically sound comparison of different oil in use in a test motorcycle, again, a bike is not a car, but a bike is harder on it's oil than a car.


    WichitaGreg

  • To triumphbobk, I didn't install the air deflector myself unfortunately. I purchased it and had it installed by my dealer. The instruction sheet may give some idea as to the intensity of the installation. The reason I had the dealer install it was twofold. At first I just inquired about an air deflector with the accessories department at my dealership and they made a few phone calls and said one was available, and at that time I was assuming it was an aftermarket air deflector and I feared it was one of those generic air deflectors that might look like crud once it was installed, so I told them I wanted to see it before they installed it. Once it arrived and they were ready to install it, I went back to the parts department to see it, I looked at the install sheet and was delighted to see it was a genuine GM part which meant it's mounting hardware would be made specifically for my Bravada so I green lighted the installation. The second reason I had them install it was I knew there would be drilling involved, and if I messed up it would be my problem, and then I would be stuck with a brand new messed up Bravada. So by having the dealer install it, I was sort of getting some insurance that should they not install the deflector correctly it would be their fault and their problem. As to whether the rear window and lift gate stay cleaner, I don't know yet, I've had it for less than a week. I will assume it does based on my experiences with a 1998 Explorer that had a rear air deflector.

    To dshepherd3, I'm having difficulty getting the correct part number from my dealer, they gave me one, but it's description on gmpartsdirect.com is Ski or Bike Rack for Receiver Hitch so I'm not sure it's the right one. I'll call a few other local dealers parts departments first before I post it.
  • Well it would appear that the part number is correct, and gmpartsdirect.com is incorrect with their description for the part, but it does match the prices I got over the phone from some local dealers part departments which was $119.00 list price so I would check with gmpartsdirect.com before ordering. Also I would suggest calling your local dealership's part department to confirm for yourself, as I would hate for anyone to get the wrong part because of me. Also let me emphasize this is for a 2002 Bravada, so I don't know if it will work on any of the other triplets. The Part number is 12497618. It also can be painted just to let y'all know. Speaking of painting it, I would like to get opinions on whether I should get mine painted pewter to match the truck. My dealership gave me the option for free and I thought it looked good black with the other accessories being black so I turned down the offer. I can still have it painted if I want though, so I'm torn between keeping it black or painting it pewter. Please give me some opinions.
  • kkakkokkakko Posts: 9
    Hi All

    On Bose systems (with the 6 CD changer), if you use the steering wheel control, you can only change CDs but you cannot advance to the next CD track on the current CD. Does somebody know if there is any software update to allow us to do it?
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    Replying to post 4266 on resetting oil life sensor: I did not reset the sensor on the first oil change. I decided to wait and let it tell me when it thinks I should change the oil. I am curious to see when that occurs.

    I am one of those 3,000-mile club members. I have used Castrol for years and have burned not one drop of oil from cars I've owned new, and put well over 100,000 miles on most.

    However, I am considering going to synthetic and a premium filter for one reason: at the rate my wife and I drive these days, I am changing oil every six to eight weeks on two cars. If I can cut in half the number of times I have to crawl under the car, it would be worth it. I like the recommendation in post 4303, but the wife's car doesn't have an oil life sensor.

    The only car I wouldn't do this on is my old Explorer that my teenage son now drives. He puts so few miles on it that it usually hits four months before it hits 3,000 miles. I think my old system, that got it to 140k miles, will get it through high school before I let him trade it.

    By the way, this may be an old problem, but I always thought it was a bad idea to mix synthetic oil with the natural stuff. I read something about gelling?
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