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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

1209210212214215879

Comments

  • I don't have them yet, but I'm ready to order them as soon as gmpartsdirect.com will email me confirming the part number for the cargo area tray. I'll copy the text description from the Bravada accessories catalog about the vinyl floor mats.

    These floor mats conform to the interior contours of your vehicle for an excellent fit and a custom look. The grid pattern collects rain, snow, dust, and dirt to protect the floor from damage. A ribbed backing helps hold the mats in place. Front mats feature the Bravada logo.

    There is two color choices pewter, and oak. While I haven't seen them myself the description sounds convincing to me.

    The reason I haven't put the oak part numbers up is because I haven't confirmed they are correct from gmpartsdirect.com and I would hate to have someone order the wrong part just because I have it on my fledgling fan site. I have a lot more part numbers from the Bravada accessories catalog, so can I ask the forum members for an opinion.

    Should I go ahead and put all the part numbers up on my home page even though I can't be certain they are correct?

    Thanks in advance for any opinions on putting up all the part numbers.
  • How difficult was it to install the air deflector? It looks great! Since you installed the deflector, does the rear window and liftgate stay cleaner? I installed one on a '92 Lumina APV and noticed that the liftgate remained cleaner longer.
  • jw4gmjw4gm Posts: 27
    The subject seems to have run its course, but there are still many of us with seat mounting brackets exposed. If anyone out there has a part number for the covers, please post. Or if they are available from other sources, please identify. My GMC dealer insists he cannot identify them by number. Thanks.
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Posts: 194
    Nice Info on site, what is the part #, source and price on the rr air defector. Thanks
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    honda (2)
    enron (2)
    envoy (2)
    acura (3)
    trailblazer (3)
    What does this all mean? I don't know.
  • noller2gnoller2g Posts: 60
    Someone said:

    "It seems crazy that someone would spend $40000 on a car and try to skimp on oil changes." and then went on to say they would mix 5 qts regular and 2 qts synthetic. I don't comprehend.


    Go to Autozone and get a Mobil1 oil filter ($9). Go to Wallmart and get a 5qt container of Blue Cap 5W30 Mobil1 ($18) and two one quart bottles of the same stuff ($9). Total cost is $36. Change your oil, and reset your computer.


    Drive car.


    When computer tells you, repeat.


    If you insist on doing it at 3000 miles, just use a Fram filter and Valvoline All-Climate 5W30. Cost is about $15.


    But I would never mix oil. If you have to have a blend, buy a blend. My research indicated most blends are not as good as Valvoline All-Climate Dino oil.


    Also, 3000 miles of city driving to work and back less than a mile each way and no other driving will for sure mean your oil is high in unburned gasoline, with reduced viscosity (I know this from a sample I had tested on my Lincoln LS).


    Opinions on Oil are like mosquitos. Plentiful and a pain. These are just mine. But I've got more important things to do with my time and money than try to out think the folks that do this for a living.


    If you want to learn about oil, here are some links. Some are for motorcycles, but motorcyclists are more tuned to the needs of their motors needs than most non-racing auto enthusiasts. Another opinion.


    http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm talks about do bikes need a specific oil, but has usefull info on the differences in synthetics vs blends.


    http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm Is a scientifically sound comparison of different oil in use in a test motorcycle, again, a bike is not a car, but a bike is harder on it's oil than a car.


    WichitaGreg

  • To triumphbobk, I didn't install the air deflector myself unfortunately. I purchased it and had it installed by my dealer. The instruction sheet may give some idea as to the intensity of the installation. The reason I had the dealer install it was twofold. At first I just inquired about an air deflector with the accessories department at my dealership and they made a few phone calls and said one was available, and at that time I was assuming it was an aftermarket air deflector and I feared it was one of those generic air deflectors that might look like crud once it was installed, so I told them I wanted to see it before they installed it. Once it arrived and they were ready to install it, I went back to the parts department to see it, I looked at the install sheet and was delighted to see it was a genuine GM part which meant it's mounting hardware would be made specifically for my Bravada so I green lighted the installation. The second reason I had them install it was I knew there would be drilling involved, and if I messed up it would be my problem, and then I would be stuck with a brand new messed up Bravada. So by having the dealer install it, I was sort of getting some insurance that should they not install the deflector correctly it would be their fault and their problem. As to whether the rear window and lift gate stay cleaner, I don't know yet, I've had it for less than a week. I will assume it does based on my experiences with a 1998 Explorer that had a rear air deflector.

    To dshepherd3, I'm having difficulty getting the correct part number from my dealer, they gave me one, but it's description on gmpartsdirect.com is Ski or Bike Rack for Receiver Hitch so I'm not sure it's the right one. I'll call a few other local dealers parts departments first before I post it.
  • Well it would appear that the part number is correct, and gmpartsdirect.com is incorrect with their description for the part, but it does match the prices I got over the phone from some local dealers part departments which was $119.00 list price so I would check with gmpartsdirect.com before ordering. Also I would suggest calling your local dealership's part department to confirm for yourself, as I would hate for anyone to get the wrong part because of me. Also let me emphasize this is for a 2002 Bravada, so I don't know if it will work on any of the other triplets. The Part number is 12497618. It also can be painted just to let y'all know. Speaking of painting it, I would like to get opinions on whether I should get mine painted pewter to match the truck. My dealership gave me the option for free and I thought it looked good black with the other accessories being black so I turned down the offer. I can still have it painted if I want though, so I'm torn between keeping it black or painting it pewter. Please give me some opinions.
  • kkakkokkakko Posts: 9
    Hi All

    On Bose systems (with the 6 CD changer), if you use the steering wheel control, you can only change CDs but you cannot advance to the next CD track on the current CD. Does somebody know if there is any software update to allow us to do it?
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    Replying to post 4266 on resetting oil life sensor: I did not reset the sensor on the first oil change. I decided to wait and let it tell me when it thinks I should change the oil. I am curious to see when that occurs.

    I am one of those 3,000-mile club members. I have used Castrol for years and have burned not one drop of oil from cars I've owned new, and put well over 100,000 miles on most.

    However, I am considering going to synthetic and a premium filter for one reason: at the rate my wife and I drive these days, I am changing oil every six to eight weeks on two cars. If I can cut in half the number of times I have to crawl under the car, it would be worth it. I like the recommendation in post 4303, but the wife's car doesn't have an oil life sensor.

    The only car I wouldn't do this on is my old Explorer that my teenage son now drives. He puts so few miles on it that it usually hits four months before it hits 3,000 miles. I think my old system, that got it to 140k miles, will get it through high school before I let him trade it.

    By the way, this may be an old problem, but I always thought it was a bad idea to mix synthetic oil with the natural stuff. I read something about gelling?
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    I wonder if anyone else has thought about the fact that there may be a correlation between the speed at which the 4.2L IL engine heats up and the dropped cynlinder sleeve issue?

    No matter how you dice it and slice it, aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate and in a different amount than iron. Slowing the rate of expansion and contraction is one way to mitigate this problem. Might there be a connection?

    I bought my TB with open eyes. I had rented one for several days before I bought mine. The rental agency, upon questioning, told me that the engine had been replaced because of a bad cylinder (no further explanation). The car had 4,500 miles on it when I rented.

    The TB is the best SUV for my needs hands down, so I took a risk. I am just happy to have this forum to keep tabs on the experiences of other owners and on how GM is handling problems. To date I have had no problems with my TB LS with 5,100 miles on it.
  • First glitch popped up today. TB LS, 3 weeks old, 350 miles. Started out in the morning, looked down to see a 'black' instrument panel. All gauges on zero, but everything seeming to work including cruise. Turned off and restarted twice with no change. Went on to first stop and when it was restarted again, all was ok.
    I remember another post about this. Was there ever an analysis/fix on what happened?
    By the way, first tank calculated at !7.6 mpg.

    Thanks for the help.
  • baltychenbaltychen Posts: 50
    Many thanks. I have a 93 Nissan Sentra and now it has over 262,000 miles on it. It still runs fine. I use Castro GTX 5W-30 and Fram oil filter. I change oil every 5.000 miles. It still the same engine.
  • icojonesicojones Posts: 61
    I can't seem to get comfortable in my TB LTZ seat.

    After about 15-20 minutes of driving I get a pain in my lower back. No adjustment I seem to make fixes the problem permanently.

    Any armchair chiropractors with any suggestions on finding an optimal seat position?

    Thanks.
  • kkakkokkakko Posts: 9
    Does anyone have an update regarding the problem of chipped paint around the large plastic license plate surround on the TB's liftgate? (message #2163 and others).

    I remember I read that GM was going to send a gasket of somekind to fix the problem (prototype).
  • I am also having problems with the drivers seat (Envoy SLE).

    I didn't notice a problem during test drives, but after a few days I developed a pain in my hip joint. My doctor says it is a muscular problem and has sent me to physical therapy, but I clearly did not have this problem in my previous vehicle.

    The seat feels alot harder to me and does not have the usual recess where your gluteus maximus goes. The lumbar support also feels excesive even when it is adjusted all the way back.

    How many others have had similar problems?

    Does anyone know of aftermarket seats for the TB/envoy?
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    My information came from a Car and Diver article a year or so ago (also the same basic things were said in a Chevy hi-perf magazine). Blends are just that, synthetic mixed with regular. If you can mix your own cheaper do it. If it worries you, stay with the same brand in both cases. I also think that motorcycle oils have far different needs from auto oils. Motorcycles turn rpm's that auto never see. And as far as synthetics go, that same Car and Driver said there was a big difference between synthetics, mainly in the base stock used to formulate the oil. Some were better than others. In the end, it's really what you are comfortable with. There is NO doubt however, that ols are much better than they were 10 years ago. Whatever you do, don't exceed the max interval recommended by the manufacturer (or your computer) because any oil related problems will probably not be covered by your warranty.

    GAM2
  • The only reason I questioned whether it would fit on the other triplets is I didn't know if the other triplets have the same little lip edge on the top of the rear hatch. If they all share the exact same rear hatch then it will definitely fit on the other triplets. Did you call your local dealership's parts department? The reason I ask is I just wanted to verify my findings, I called three different dealerships to confirm the part number so I'm pretty sure it's correct despite gmpartsdirect.com's description.
  • cmack4cmack4 Posts: 302
    I was prepared to do a mix of synthetic and conventional Mobil products, but BigK (Kmart) had the 6 packs of Mobil1 for $14.94, so I stocked up! I also picked up a half dozen PF59's for $2.99 a piece! They were $5.99 at Pep Boys... What's the deal with KMart outpricing everyone?

    John, the rear air deflector and running boards look sweet! Nice Bravada!
  • jam1000jam1000 Posts: 182
    I, too, found the driver's seat painfully uncomfortable, so much so that I just traded in my TB (which I liked in all other respects) for a JGC. The problem for me was my left thigh and calf. I think there were two causes of the problem -- the seat cushion IS extremely hard, and the seat itself is at least a couple inches longer than that of the JGC. I think the length of the seat both put pressure against my calf and also somehow repositioned my leg. At all events, within two minutes I was quite uncomfortable and never could find a position I could live with. A seat cushion eased things from painful to chronically uncomfortable, but I still could not see myself having to sit in that seat for the next several years.

    There were some posts about 3-5 months ago from other people who found the seats uncomfortable. Also, one of the carpoint reviewers made exactly this comment. So, while I'm sure many of you find your TB/Envoy/Bravada to be very comfortable (and I'm glad that you do), GM ought to be giving serious consideration to redesigning the driver's seat to accommodate more people.

    I looked into re-upholstering the seat or getting a new one, but several people said that the cost would be expensive and the results uncertain. In the end, I determined that I wouldn't lose that much more money trading the car than trying to get the seat rebuilt or replaced. Also, before rebuilding or replacing the seat, make sure that doing so doesn't void the warranty.
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