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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

1580581582583585

Comments

  • c118fec118fe Posts: 23
    where do I find a breakdown of the 117 point check for "certified" pre-owned? Thanx.
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,525
    Good question. Edmunds just has the broad overview.

    Does checking the air in the tires count for 5 check-offs or just one?

    Anyone?

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • snokingsnoking Posts: 47
    Well, we are still having P0442 issues. Put the Rainie on a lift today and looked at the fuel tank. No signs of a leak at the tank. New cap did not fix the issue, will check all the hose under the hood. Anyone have a drawing on the vacuum hoses?

    SNOKING
  • snokingsnoking Posts: 47
    Well, I cleaned the EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Valve after doing a vacuum leak down test on it. After cleaning it seems ok.

    Look at post #259 http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?p=841576#post841576

    SNOKING
  • ss06ss06 Posts: 2
    i have a ss with 4:10 gears and i get about 14.5 to 15.3 if i keep my foot off the pedal with the ss that is the only gear you can get
  • the SS Trailblazer is not noted for being a gas mizer instead it is really a gas
    hog
  • Will 17" Envoy rims fit a Trailblazer and vice versa? There seem to be more Envoy rims available on Craigslist and I own a TB that I want a set of spare wheels for for snows. Mine is an '02 EXT. Do I have to worry about the year as long as the size is the same? Thanks
  • I would think that they would be the same wheel but to be safe and sure your best bet would be to contact a place that sells tires and wheels exclusively---in michigan we have belle tire and discount tire who are the largest retailers and most places like this are more then helpful plus knowlegable about their products

    ken z
  • johntrjohntr Posts: 71
    From a 2002 Trailblazer owners manual:

    NOTICE:
    Loading cargo that weighs more than 220 lbs.
    (100 kg) on the luggage carrier may damage
    your vehicle.
    When you carry cargo on the luggage carrier of a
    proper size and weight, put it on the slats, and
    distribute the weight evenly. Then slide the
    crossrail up against the rear of the load, to help
    keep it from moving. You can then tie it down.
    Cargo containers must be loaded on the
    crossrails only.
  • aldanaldan Posts: 19
    I would say the filler neck from the tank to the cap is not air tight, it could be a return line or the entire assembly. I would try trailvoy.com for a home fix.
  • aldanaldan Posts: 19
    guys just recently flipped 100,000 miles. I've owned since mile 4. Purchased Dec 15th 2002. 7-8 north east winters, tough driving conditions. I live in the lake effect zone south of Buffalo NY. Great Vehicle. Few issues. Salt wreaks havoc, i would recommend paying $100 every year to get the oil spray from car-well or rustop. This would have saved me a few unnessary repairs, all salt related.

    I plan to keep this until it blows up.

    Good Luck, good vehicle. Just wash the salt off it every chance you get!!!
  • I'm having tow problems:
    1) When a/c is on sometimes the blower blows, sometimes not. Turning the speed up or down does not adjust the air flow. It might blow a little bit but then when driving down the road it turns on full blast. Then on it's own when it wants to starts blowing nothing again.

    2) When I turn the car off the A/C Heater Blower does not turn off. Once in awhile if I keep messing with it or turn the car on and off it might stop. It has drained my battery twice now and I have to unhook the battery to get it to stop.
    When I hook the battery back up, start the car, I do not turn it on an dit will turn on automatically even though you do not hear it adn then I am back in the same boat again.......

    Somebody please help!!!
    Thanks Jess
  • If you have Manual A/C, replace the Blower Motor Resistor. If you have Automatic A/C, replace the Blower Motor Control Module. Both are located just behind the glove box and will require no more than ten minutes to unplug the old and plug in the new. There is a 99% chance that will fix your problem which is a very common one.

    C.B.
  • rdzoomrdzoom Posts: 1
    New poster here.... Stretched my Mich XTerrains out to 90k.... Replaced with Yokohama Geolander HTS.... excellent choice for me and look good at 130k on 2002Olds Bravada.... Keep air pressure at least 35psi for better mileage...
  • Did the solution to your problems I posted in Post #18282 fix your problems?

    C.B.
  • I'm picking up the part tomorrow and shall let you know! I Was searching for a reasonalbe price and would you believe the best price was at the dealership? That is a rarity for sure. My Fiance is working tomorrow so I am going to try and tackle it myself......pull out the glove box and it will be behind it correct? I searched for a schematic online and could not find one. Thank you C.B., I appreciate your help!!
  • Here is a link to some pictures and instructions. They are for a blower motor resistor for a vehicle with manual a/c but the blower motor control module for automatic a/c models is in a similar place and these instructions will serve also. Scroll to post #1. Good luck.

    http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=32751&page=7

    C.B.
  • Still anxious to find out if all is okay now!

    C.B.
  • glubashglubash Posts: 19
    Goodbye Envoy Forum!

    Hello all, I'm happy to say that I've traded my 2003 Envoy XL V8 SLT in at 80,000 miles. Although I have always like the looks of the vehicle as well as the cabin layout, it has been the most troublesome vehicle that I have ever owned. I was hoping to get 10 years out of it, but that just wasn't in the cards.

    Awhile back (9/29/7) I wrote up a 50,000 mile report:
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea2017/18087

    Since then the truck has been doing okay, but in the last year, I've had the following problems:

    1. Getting hot while towing. On hot days pulling a boat, I started noticing the temperature gauge creeping up on me. Normally, it is rock solid at 210 F. I was a bit worried so I slowed down and turned the A/c off. When I got home, I checked for air flow obstructions, checked and changed the coolant. None of this helped and after that each time I would tow on a hot day (upper 80's or higher), the temp gauge would start creeping up into the 250 range. Generally by slowing down to about 55 and taking it easy up the hills I could keep it around 225 or so. Other than towing, no temperature issues.

    2. Speedometer sticking. This started happening last summer. Particularly noticible during longer trips when speed is not varying much. The speedometer starts to stick and then creep up. Eventually, it will get pegged out when going highway speeds. I have some nice pictures of the gauge stuck on 60+ MPH with the vehicle in park. Over time, it does work its way back down (drops about 10 MPH each time it is started) and generally works okay for daily driving. If you are having this problem and want it fixed, there is an outfit in TN (http://www.autoecu.com/) that will do it for less than $100.

    3. Engine Noise. This was the final straw. The engine started ticking (sounded like a valve noise) about a month ago. It was bad when the engine was started but after heating up would subside. I was hoping that it would only be a cracked exhaust manifold but when I took it in, I was told that the noise was coming from somewhere inside the engine and he recommended trading it in vs. tearing into the engine. As it was getting worse over time, I got a second opinion and received the same advice.

    I would like to thank the contributers to this forum for all the advice and sharing of knowledge. You have helped me through a bad A/C pressure switch, failed blower module, poor auto wiper sensor setup, etc. etc. (unfortunately, more than I care to list here).

    Good luck with your Envoys, I hope that mine was the exception, not the rule. Now, off to the Tundra forum!!

    Glubash
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    edited March 2010
    I'm needing new tires for my Envoy for year-round use in Texas. Michelin Cross Terrains lasted 80K, but are pretty expensive to replace ($176-205). Consumer Reports Nov. 2008 shows high marks for General Grabber HTS. On the General Tire website, and on some others like tirerack.com, they only show a Grabber HTS XL (extra load capacity) and don't show a standard load (non-XL) tire. Likewise many of the discount retail stores here have the XL tire "in stock", but can get the standard load tire in a few days. It looks to me like the standard load tire is being phased out, since General and tirerack.com no longer show it. Anyone know? And has anyone used the XL tires? My tire dealer can get either the XL or standard, but he has the XL in stock for $20 per tire cheaper ($120 versus $140). So they are pushing the XL, but I wonder why it is cheaper than standard load.. Anyone share any experience with General Grabber HTS on their SUV, and am I likely to be happy with XL even though I don't haul extra weight? (The Consumer Report in Nov. 2008 may have been on standard load, since I think the XL is newer than that.) Thanks in advance for info.
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    I just put the General Grabber HTS on my 2002 SLT two weeks ago.
    I really like the ride right now, but then again my 4 X Terrains were getting pretty crappy with some uneven wear.

    not sure if they are XL or not, i can look them up.

    I went to a cooper dealer and he pushed the lower cost grabbers.
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    Slipkid wrote: "not sure if they are XL or not, i can look them up."

    That would be helpful if you can easily do so. It should be either on the sidewall or your paperwork, hopefully. If you have the Grabber HTS XL and like them, it would give me more confidence in getting some. thanks in advance!
  • Have intermittent deflation of the automatic load-leveling rear suspension. Sometimes it will stay up for a day or so, other times, 20-30 minutes after the vehicle is shut off, it slowly "squats" to the bottom of the suspension.

    Also, the car will fall to the low point of the suspension while driving. Sometimes it will re-inflate while driving, other times it will not inflate until the car is restarted on next use.

    I have replaced both axle sensors and the inflation pump assembly. I have checked the accessory inflator Schrader valve inside, no leaks, problem still exists, what next?
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    Sorry for the late response. I do have the XL's. $590 all in after taxes.

    Great ride on them so far, and the puppy has puked less since I've changed tires.
  • Hey C.B!!! It worked! Sorry that it has taken me so long to respond. The part came in from Auto Parts Direct and due to bad weather etc. Doug did not replace it til March. But the main thing is that you were right and it worked!! YEAH!!!! Thank you so very much for your help!!!
    You are a blessing!
    Jessica :)
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    I just started getting a low rpm vibration. In drive just off idle, around 800 rpm. Goes away by 1000 rpm. Not noticable at 650 rpm idle. Just noticable in park. Dash and exhaust resonate and steering wheel vibrates. Any ideas?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,081
    Hello Gam2,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me more information about your situation? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    Envoy at 82,000 miles. During routine oil change and inspection dealer says "rear shocks appear to be leaking a little; we wiped them off to be sure something hadn't splashed on them, and will check them again at next oil change." I asked if they did need to be replaced how much that would run, and he said about $475. He didn't mention the front shocks/struts at all, so I guess they're OK for now. Does that price sound right for replacing two rear shocks? If they do replace them next time, should I go with OEM or ask them to use something heavier duty? And should I not mention the front shocks/struts until they do? Thanks.
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    $475 is high.

    i had the same issue, had my independant guy do that, plus change the transmission fluids and do the transfer case along with some other 100k maintanence work and he charged me $500 total.

    shop around, should be routine work.

    never had anyone mention the fronts, so sounds like the rears go out "quickly"

    no clue what kind went back on my truck
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