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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy



  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    Unless you live in a very high cost of living area, I think these prices are out of line. Hopefully you got the Envoy at a great price due to the high mileage on it. I looked on gmpartsdirect for a cost from them for an engine, but it was not listed. Are you able to drive the vehicle? How about trading it for something else? Might consider a used engine, but may get another problem. Do you have any other Envoy dealers in the area you could get a second quote from? Also a Chevrolet dealer could also do repairs sometimes cheaper, but they aren't going to do a 50/50 on this. I would push GMC customer service more. You said they could not help, are they also saying they will not help? Ask to talk to a supervisor at GMC customer service. Also, ask to see the General Manager personally, don't rely on the phone they will dodge you all day long. Does your state have a lemon law on used vehicles? Tell the dealership you will contact Better Business Bureau if not satisfied.
    The front axle goes thru the oil pan, but should not require that much more labor.
    You are 100% sure this is a 2003? What was the build date? It will be on the drivers door on a sticker, unless someone removed it.
  • twinrottstwinrotts Posts: 161
    Decided to do the install myself and save a $100 on install fees.
    The front bushings went in no problem, but I ran into a major issue working on the back. I was able to detatch the end link off the passenger side but could not get the nut off the drivers side. I did get it 75% or more off but things froze up toward the end. I soaked it with WD-40 and built a make shift extension for my open end wrench to get some more leverage but still no luck. I put some heat to it and melted out what was either lock tight or a plastic insert that is used to make a lock nut. I ended up spinning the 6mm allen wrench in the end link bolt. Was a new Craftsman wrench but the corners are now showing signs of rounding. Not sure if I destroyed the end link or not but I'll have my local mech deal with it on Monday.
    Did think about removing the end link from its other connect point but figured it was pointless as I likely still would not be able to remove the end from the sway bar.
    BTW: Once I decided to give up the farm I tried to tighten it back up. Was able to get the A wrench to hold but could not budge the nut. I'm wondering if my heat trick melted and refroze some remaining tighener sealing my fate??? Passenger side went together OK so I have one side tight and the other side floating. I am assuming it is not a safety issue driving it to the shop.
    Oh well, I get an "A" for effort and a D- for execution.
    If you are wondering why not an "F", I'm taking some credit for the front.
    Seems that every time I try to remove fasteners on this truck I can break them loose ok but they just never seem to get easy to spin until they are just about out.
    Are they designed this way to prevent becoming loose, or are they treated with locktite when installed? :sick: :cry:
  • twinrottstwinrotts Posts: 161
    I took advantage of a Group Buy a couple of years ago for WAAG front, rear bumper, and tail light guards.
    After having these on the truck for 2 years and 2 north east winters, I must say I am rather disappointed in how they are NOT holding up.
    Lots of finish failures both rust through and chipping. Problem is not isolated to the front where you might expect it, but the rear components as well.
    They look so poor that I removed them today and brought them to my local autobody shop for a bead blast and repaint. They are going to be painted in a material that has some texture and is typically used as a chip guard paint on the bottom of cars.
    The rear is especially gross on the bar ends where the caps are inserted. I never expected this type performance as WAAG taughts the advantages of their powder coad finish on both interior and exterior surface. Add the that the dozens of coats of Zaino I put on.
    I shared feedback with them today just to let them know how their products are doing in th real world.
    I did ask them to mail me some replacement tape to reattach the tail guards to the lens
  • Thanks for the info. I can drive the envoy, but i have to add about 2 quarts of oil a week. I have thought about trading it in, but i would feel bad for the next owner, and i would probably lose a bunch of money. The title says its a 2003, and I looked at the sticker on the drivers door, the only date on it is in the upper right hand corner, is says 08/02

    Not sure what exactly that means.

    Thanks again, Alex
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    08/02 means that it was produced in August of 2002. Could very well be an '03, as my '03 was produced about the same time (08-03).
    I would be hesitant to drop $4 large in an engine, just from the stanpoint that the vehicle has so many miles on it. There are other things that may go wrong, and just could be a start of an expensive situation. Might try to trade a couple of places, just to get some numbers for comparison. Perhaps the next owner will buy an extended warranty and get it fixed. Doubt if someone is losing sleep because they traded in the vehicle you now have.
  • twinrottstwinrotts Posts: 161
    tblazed - I live in western NY with long winters with lots of salt used,
    You can almost hear your vehicle rust.
    I likely do not help things either by garaging the vehicle. Seems I read somewhere that you are really better off leaving a vehicle outside where it stays colder as that will retard the corrosive factors in play. I'm just too lazy to brush snow and scrape ice at 0530 each day.
    I guess I pay in the end
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Why feel bad about the next owner, I'd peddle it in a heartbeat. I would think you wouldn't lose anymore than the 4K that you are planning on for the new engine and still have a high mileage vehicle. Me I'd either buy a cheaper new vehicle or one with a good warranty, and I don't mean one of the fly by night extended warranties you get from a dealer. They try to get out of any repairs they can. On yours, I would bet they would say it was a pre-excisting condition and wouldn't have paid for it anyway. :lemon:
  • dsr9dsr9 Posts: 6
    bobed, i have to agree with a lot of what you said. just to add to your posting, the reliability of a vehicle will also depend on the buyer's pre-inspection and test drive. For example, how many people open all doors, carefully inspect all joints/seams, and look under the hood to verify the quality of the assembly? (if you don't know how to do this, bring someone who does). when you test drive the car, do you have the radio on? ( you should leave it off - the radio is the last thing to worry about on a test drive). How many miles do people get to test-drive? Just around the block? I test drove my 03 TB for 9 miles - in all conditions except off road. Did you test-drive the actual vehicle you ended up buying? These are questions all buyers should consider when purchasing a vehicle.
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    "the reliability of a vehicle will also depend on the buyer's pre-inspection and test drive."
    Possibly for used cars but,
    Aren't we talking about buying new cars ? What test driving technique do you know of that would have predicted the types of problems the tripletts have had. The only accurate indicator of performance of a new car is ownership. Nothing that happens during a short or long test drive of a new car could predict future component failure.
  • imadad2imadad2 Posts: 79
    This just helps hammer my point on GM home. You bought a 01 and 02 model. I feel the TB is not a decent truck until the 04 model year. I have had my problems as well. Wind noise, and a shorted circuit for my turn signals. However, it has not soured me on this truck. GM however, has turned customers opinions sour by selling a vehicle that does not have all the kinks worked out. The Tahoe and the Suburban win awards all the time for quality. The TB just won an award in the Philippines. The truck produced today (2005 model) is a quality vehicle. I would never suggest anyone buy a TB that is from 2000 - 2003. It is a shame, because now they have lost you as a customer, and won't win you back unless they can sell you a quality product at a low price. Chances are, you will like you Mitsu and won't be back. That is what is wrong with GM. They allow vehicles with problems to be sold, and work out the problems over years instead of getting all this cleaned up before they introduce it. I am waiting to see how the "HHR" does when introduced. I want one, but like I said, the first few years scare me when buying a new line of vehicle from GM. On another note, over 2 million vehicles were recalled for seatbelts. What's next? GM, I hate to say it, is in trouble.
  • imadad2imadad2 Posts: 79
    I have to side with ficuss here. The electrical problems the triplets have had cannot be forseen until after the vehicle is owned and used. No test drive will show these problems. ficuss had mostly electrical issues as have many others. Poor design, nothing else causes that. I just hope and pray my 2004 EXT has all the "bugs" worked out of it, so I don't have the same issues ficuss had with his suv's.
  • gmoudygmoudy Posts: 67
    I own a 2002 TB and have had no problems with the vehicle. Other than the stated recalls, the TB has been performing oerfectly. No Wind Noise, whatever that might be caused by, no electrical problems, except the batteryhad to be replaced after two years due to a leak. I wuldn't buy a newer version of the TB since alot of the standard stuff I got you no longer get. EX: No glove box light, no underhood light. I have lights above each door whereas the newer models ave only two lights on the roof. I believe that GM lost customers because of some poor quality throughout the years. Cutting out little items as the model years progress is one way of killing of customers. It is also a way to keep prices down while getting rid of some items. I do agree GM is in trouble and needs to wake up and change their way of thinking.
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    My 02 TB has been pretty good for the past 2 1/2 years, and I have 65K miles on it. I still have the original brakes and they show about 40% wear. Not bad. I do need to get the tranny fluid serviced soon eventhough the manual states it can go up to 100K mi before service. I will probably do the tranny fluild and brakes at 75K miles at the same time. Other than normal maintenance items, the vehicle has been pretty solid. Yes, it is not as "rugged" as the Grand Cherokee and Durango vehicles I used to own, but the vehicle obviously has more "pro's" in what I was personally looking for in a vehicle...american manufactured by a amercian company headquarted here in the U.S. (remember, there are now only two pure american auto manufacturers left - GM & Ford. Chrysler merged with Daimler Benz so they do not count as truely american made in my books), decent looks, smooth ride and strong performance.

    It is starting to warm up here in the deep south, and I am still having the A/C cycling between warm and cold air at start up when the vehicle is sitting for a while. When I put the vehicle in drive and start driving down the road, it seems to clear up pretty quickly. Has ANYONE out there found a solution or a TSB #? The dealership I take my vehicle to is great, but this problem has been a challenge for them and I am tired of paying the $80 for them to tell me nothing is wrong. Thanks.
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    Your problem is most likely the A/C Cycling Switch. I have a 2003 Envoy and have had to replace twice because they got a faulty batch around a couple of years ago. The symptoms are just as you described and I am very surprised your Dealer does not recognize that. It is intermittent and lots of Dealers like to rely on that as an excuse.

    The part # is 89040362 and the Description is Switch 9.172.

    It's a very simple job for the mechanic to replace and does NOT require that the gas be released.

    Good Luck.

  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    Also this old TSB, if they haven't done it already ...

    HVAC System Inoperative for a Drive Cycle, Poor HVAC System Performance
    in High Ambient Temperatures (Update HVAC Control Module Software)
    #02-01-39-005 - (09/23/2002)

    HVAC System Inoperative For A Drive Cycle, Poor HVAC System Performance In High Ambient Temperatures (Update HVAC Control Module Software)

    2002-2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT

    2002-2003 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL

    2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada


    Some customers may comment about no cold air from the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system during a drive cycle. This concern may occur at any time during the drive cycle and at any temperature setting. The HVAC system operation returns to normal after the vehicle has been keyed to off and restarted. This concern is intermittent and most likely to occur on hot days. This concern may be found on vehicles equipped with manual (CJ2) and automatic (CJ3) HVAC systems. Other customers may comment about poor HVAC system performance in high ambient temperature conditions. This concern may be present in automatic (CJ2) HVAC systems only. An HVAC control module software update was put into all production vehicles beginning in September 2002. Vehicles built in September 2002 and earlier may need this software update.


    Update the HVAC control module using software available through GM Access beginning September 9, 2002. The update will be fully available October 7, 2002 to all dealers on TIS 2000 CD version 10. This software update addresses both the intermittent no cooling and the poor performance concerns. If the software update does not correct the concerns, perform the HVAC Diagnostic System Check and repair as necessary. If the HVAC control module is replaced with a part from GMSPO, make sure the module has the latest software update. The module may need to be updated even though it is a new part.
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    tblazed is correct. I had forgotten that the computer update was tried the first time I complained but it didn't do the job for me and they had to replace the cycling switch.

  • raleighraleigh Posts: 98
    A question tblazed - Did you get the extended warranty? My first year of ownership is almost up. With zero problems so far (knock on wood) I am trying to decide whether to spend $1,000 for an extended warranty, although I really don't drive very many miles per year in this vehicle.
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    Thanks Tblazed and C.B for the A/C info.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    No extended warranty for me. 3 1/2 years of no problems, just a few recalls. I am a do-it-yourselfer though, with service manual, so I can handle the less intensive repairs and the maintenance myself, usually for a lot less than the deductable. I prefer to keep my money where it's earning interest and dividends. A small percentage of people come out ahead on them, but most don't, otherwise there would be no reason for these companies to offer extended warranties. I looked over several "offers" that I received in the mail - the ones that are not GM list all kinds of things they cover that do not apply to the Trailblazer, and miss several others, what I consider very critical components an extended warranty should cover. However, if you're not inclined to repair things yourself and you can get the GM-backed extended warranty for $1000, that might be a good deal for you.
  • imadad2imadad2 Posts: 79
    This is another good point that kills me about GM. Eliminating standard features that made the TB a liked vehicle. I can handle no light in the glove compartment, and I can handle no light under the hood. However, eliminate fog lights, eliminate a light above each door, and eliminate other neat items from this suv turns more people off. I am so glad I bought a 2004 instead of a 2005. I think that the 2005 model is not as good as the 2004. I don't trust the V-8 engine that shuts down four cylinders to save gas (it bombed with Cadillac if I remember correctly), I bought the EXT, so I want a V-8 in it. Having fog lights is essential to me, and to pay extra for them when I could get them standard the year before, no thanks. Also, I think cruise control was eliminated from the option package for 2005's. GM is shooting itself in the foot by trying to make their vehicles cheaper and cutting out the goodies that made the consumer come to them in the first place. I with you. I would have to get a great deal to get me to buy a new TB. The seats may be more comfortable, but GM has taken to many things away that I love in my 2004. I'd buy a used 2004 before I'd buy a 2005. That is saying something.
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