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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

1873875877878879

Comments

  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    I had the new tires put on and alignment done and the noise is still there in the drivers side front wheel well. Again, when driving straight or steering to the left the groan/rubbing noise is present. When I turn to the right like when I'm going around a curve the noise goes away. As soon as the wheel is striaghtened, the noise comes back. I did put a new hub assembly on the drivers side front and I'm wondering if it could be a "bad" one. Also, when going over a quick rise in the road where some of the weight is taken off the wheels the noise goes away and comes back again as soon as the full weight of the vehicle is back on the wheels. Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Make sure that the inner fender plastic lining isn't loose in the front and being forced back against the tire when you get up to speed. That has happened twice on the right side of mine. It doesn't make a groaning noise but I can easily hear the rubbing noise. There's a plastic fastener that holds on the lower outer corner. Otherwise, the only thing I can think of is the hub assembly.
  • handyandy3handyandy3 Posts: 21
    even if you purchased a new hub assembly from a dealer or reputable auto parts store it is possible that you might have gotten a bad one--so check the hub again also check to see that you didnt over tighten the large nut that holds the hub onto the spindle

    ken z
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    I have 2002 Envoy--7.5 years old with 79,000 mi. I am due for oil change/tire rotation. What else should I consider having done?
    1) Brakes have been "checked" each rotation; so far they have said no problem. Is it unusual to go 7 years/79,000 mi. with no brake tuneup? How long these normally go before they need new pads/ rotor turned?
    2) What about belts and hoses? How long do these usually last before people have been changing for new ones?
    3) Coolant, transmission fluid, air filter up-to-date and not due.
    4) Should I get new axle fluid? It's never been changed.
    5) Factory tires are still doing OK at 79,000.
    Thanks for suggestions.
  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    Just wanted to update on my TB. With symptoms described above and the roar or rubbing in the drivers side wheel well. I changed the drivers side assembly and the noise was still present and I then re-checked the torque setting on the axle nut and it was OK--right at 103 ft-lbs. When I was having my aligment done after new tires were installed the mechanic there said even though the noise seemed like it was in the divers side front that it was most likely the passenger side hub assembly that was "bad". He said whatever way you turn the wheel to get the noise to stop, then that was the side that is bad. In this case when I turned the wheel to the right the noise stopped. I then just today installed the right side assembly the roar is gone.I guess I shouldn't have to worry about the drivers side assembly going bad for a while now either!! Also,I wanted to thank Burdawg and handyandy3 for their help/suggestions. Thanks again guys.
  • Just bought a 2006 Rainier. I had a local RV dealer install my Tekonsha Voyager brake controller that was working fine on a previous truck two weeks ago.. The installer expressed concern; wondering if the brakes were going to work but he still let it leave out the door.

    The electric brakes aren't working. The light on the controller is not on when hooked up to the camper. Camper turn signals, taillights, etc all work fine; just no brakes.

    One person told me that it probably needed a fuse...but info here has said the fuse/battery connection is unrelated to the electric brakes.

    Any ideas or thoughts?

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    I assume your talking about an electric brake controller. They are actually pretty simple in how they operate. They detect you applying the brakes in the tow vehicle, usually by connecting to the brake light switch, so when you apply the brakes the controller will start applying current to the electric brakes on the trailer. There's typically some adjustments to tailor the controller to the load you will be towing, like the speed at which the brakes are applied and the latency of how long it waits from when you apply the brakes to when it starts to supply braking power to the trailer. There's also usually a button that will apply full force to the trailer brakes all at once, for emergency use or to test the trailer brakes at low speed. Old timers like me remember the "manual" controllers that were just a lever coming out of the controller that you moved to apply the trailer brakes, moving it more meant more braking. If you forgot to release it once stopped you wouldn't be able to get moving again!
    If it's not working then either it's not detecting the braking by the tow vehicle, not properly connected to the trailer's brakes, or isn't wired correctly, or has gone out. There quite typically is a fuse in the main line that supplies current to the trailer brakes, since it's usually wired directly to a 12V source. It could be an inline block type fuse (30Amp). The controller itself is probably fused also. The camper lights don't have anything to do with it, they are different circuits.
  • handyandy3handyandy3 Posts: 21
    I have a 05 rainier that I use to haul a travel trailer with and I had a local kid install my controller and he had to pick up a 30amp J-fuse before everything would work---there is a slot for the fuse just read the inside of the battery cover---I hope this solves your problem

    ken z
  • Problem fixed.

    Turned out the 30 amp fuse under the hood was blown. Replaced the fuse and now everything is good. I should have checked this first; but I had misunderstood some previous postings on the subject....thinking a fuse was not involved with the electric brake circuit.

    Thank you so much for the help,
    Mike
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    I think your biggest thing should be looking into new tires, 79k is pretty high mileage for a set.

    Other than that, my 2002 just hit 109k. Never had belts changed, after I asked the mechanic to look at them, he said not to bother, all the other stuff you mentioned i did for the first time at 100k, except for air filter.

    been such a low maintanence vehicle.

    the only issues were redoing the brakes around 70k, got screwed by midas on that.
    had two rear shocks replaced at 100k for cheap.

    of course my fan clutch is LOUD, but the mechanic said it would prob cost $400-$500 and even then he couldn't guarantee the new one wouldn't do teh same thing.
  • abuckerabucker Posts: 4
    My engine in knocking in my 2002 chevy trailblazer, I only hear the knock during acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear then at higher rates of speed it stops knocking?? Anyone have an idea as to what this could be??? Please help!! thanks
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Is there a specific range of RPM's that it continually knocks at? Try reving the engine in park and seeing where on the tach the knock occurs. Also, once it occurs, listen to see if it's get worse briefly after you let off on the accelerator.
  • abuckerabucker Posts: 4
    It starts at around 1500 to 2000 rpm's and knocks continually. Yes it does get worse briefly when I let off the accelerator...thanks for the quick response.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    It could be a loose rod bearing. The classic way to check for loose bearings is to remove the plug wires, one at a time, and rev the engine through the rpm's where the knocking occurs. When the cylinder with the loose bearing is dead, i.e. the plug is disconnected, the knocking will go away or be greatly diminished.
    Before you do that though, is the knock a loud metal to metal sound, or is it more like a click? And is it worse when the engine is cold or when it's warmed up?
  • abuckerabucker Posts: 4
    it sounds like metal to metal to me not a click more of a "klunk" sounds the same cold or warmed up....I was reving it earlier to let someone else hear the klunk and the check engine light came on as well...very frustrating!!!
  • abuckerabucker Posts: 4
    took car to advance for diagnostic three warnings came up
    P0014 Camshaft position actuator
    P0014 Timing over advanced
    P1345 Manufacturer Ignition system or misfire

    Any ideas?? might as well be french to me....thanks for all your help!!
  • My wife and I both have Buick Rainer -V8s - 2006 & 2007.

    My wife's 2006 which has 50K mikes on it - is burning way too much oil - about a quart every 1500 miles. There are no leaks or drips on our garage floor and I don't see any blue smoke coming from the exhaust. We regularly get the oil changed every 6,000 miles

    My 2007 Rainer (35,000 miles) - uses a bit less - a quart every 2000 miles.

    Is there a known problem with these V8 GM engines used in the Rainers? Any possible warranty claims?

    What solutions do any of you techs have to stop the oil usage?
  • cebtebcebteb Posts: 138
    79K seems a bit excessive for front brake pads; be sure someone competent looks at those front brakes.

    Never changed your transmission fluid? Check it hot per the instructions in the owners manual. If it is brown or tinged brown, change the transmission fluid to add years and miles to the life of your transmission.

    Change axle fluid per the owners manual recommendations. There really isn't any indicator otherwise except to keep the level up to spec.
  • cebtebcebteb Posts: 138
    My 2003 Bravada has 42K miles on it and in the past few weeks the ride off he front suspension seems to have greatly deteriorated. The Bravada used to ride smoother than my wife's Chrysler 300M, but now when a front wheel hits a man-hole cover dip I get a big bang and jolt. Had an alignment and new tires done in spring. Air suspension on rear axle seems to still be very compliant.

    Any thoughts on the sensibility of replacing the front Bilstein shocks that came stock with the Bravada and some of its sisters.
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    Hey, cebteb.
    I have all my servicing done at a major dealer, so I'm surprised they haven't tried to push brake pads on me yet. They always try to push something so they might this time. I'll ask them about it specifically. No one is better on brake life than me, however :) I have no teenagers or women drivers, so they last a lot longer even on other vehicles. I suspect when I ask the dealer, he'll want to replace them--kinda like asking the barber if you need a haircut :) Do they usually "turn rotors" on these vehicles as well?

    Yes, I've changed the transmission fluid once (not the filter), at the dealer, using the "exchange" method at around 55,000. Next time I change it, I may have them do the the "drop pan" and new filter, etc. Is that what most people do, or do they continue using the exchange method over and over?

    The dealer will probably try to push "fuel injector" treatment, but I run some powerful stuff through mine at intervals. Sometimes Techron, sometimes RedLine Engine Cleaner. Do people recommend the dealer fuel injector treatments? I have a Pontiac with 150,000 miles that has never had a dealer fuel treatment, just the ones I give it.

    Thanks.
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