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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy



  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    edited March 2010
    I'm needing new tires for my Envoy for year-round use in Texas. Michelin Cross Terrains lasted 80K, but are pretty expensive to replace ($176-205). Consumer Reports Nov. 2008 shows high marks for General Grabber HTS. On the General Tire website, and on some others like, they only show a Grabber HTS XL (extra load capacity) and don't show a standard load (non-XL) tire. Likewise many of the discount retail stores here have the XL tire "in stock", but can get the standard load tire in a few days. It looks to me like the standard load tire is being phased out, since General and no longer show it. Anyone know? And has anyone used the XL tires? My tire dealer can get either the XL or standard, but he has the XL in stock for $20 per tire cheaper ($120 versus $140). So they are pushing the XL, but I wonder why it is cheaper than standard load.. Anyone share any experience with General Grabber HTS on their SUV, and am I likely to be happy with XL even though I don't haul extra weight? (The Consumer Report in Nov. 2008 may have been on standard load, since I think the XL is newer than that.) Thanks in advance for info.
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    I just put the General Grabber HTS on my 2002 SLT two weeks ago.
    I really like the ride right now, but then again my 4 X Terrains were getting pretty crappy with some uneven wear.

    not sure if they are XL or not, i can look them up.

    I went to a cooper dealer and he pushed the lower cost grabbers.
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    Slipkid wrote: "not sure if they are XL or not, i can look them up."

    That would be helpful if you can easily do so. It should be either on the sidewall or your paperwork, hopefully. If you have the Grabber HTS XL and like them, it would give me more confidence in getting some. thanks in advance!
  • Have intermittent deflation of the automatic load-leveling rear suspension. Sometimes it will stay up for a day or so, other times, 20-30 minutes after the vehicle is shut off, it slowly "squats" to the bottom of the suspension.

    Also, the car will fall to the low point of the suspension while driving. Sometimes it will re-inflate while driving, other times it will not inflate until the car is restarted on next use.

    I have replaced both axle sensors and the inflation pump assembly. I have checked the accessory inflator Schrader valve inside, no leaks, problem still exists, what next?
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    Sorry for the late response. I do have the XL's. $590 all in after taxes.

    Great ride on them so far, and the puppy has puked less since I've changed tires.
  • Hey C.B!!! It worked! Sorry that it has taken me so long to respond. The part came in from Auto Parts Direct and due to bad weather etc. Doug did not replace it til March. But the main thing is that you were right and it worked!! YEAH!!!! Thank you so very much for your help!!!
    You are a blessing!
    Jessica :)
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    I just started getting a low rpm vibration. In drive just off idle, around 800 rpm. Goes away by 1000 rpm. Not noticable at 650 rpm idle. Just noticable in park. Dash and exhaust resonate and steering wheel vibrates. Any ideas?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    Hello Gam2,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me more information about your situation? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    Envoy at 82,000 miles. During routine oil change and inspection dealer says "rear shocks appear to be leaking a little; we wiped them off to be sure something hadn't splashed on them, and will check them again at next oil change." I asked if they did need to be replaced how much that would run, and he said about $475. He didn't mention the front shocks/struts at all, so I guess they're OK for now. Does that price sound right for replacing two rear shocks? If they do replace them next time, should I go with OEM or ask them to use something heavier duty? And should I not mention the front shocks/struts until they do? Thanks.
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    $475 is high.

    i had the same issue, had my independant guy do that, plus change the transmission fluids and do the transfer case along with some other 100k maintanence work and he charged me $500 total.

    shop around, should be routine work.

    never had anyone mention the fronts, so sounds like the rears go out "quickly"

    no clue what kind went back on my truck
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    edited May 2010
    Some time ago I noticed one of the Bilstein shocks on the back of our 02 TB was leaking. I was appalled at the dealer cost for them (something like $150 each, if I remember right). I went out on Ebay and got the new EXACT shocks for $50 total. They even had the GM part # tags on them with the same GM part # that I was quoted. It took about 15 minutes each to install them.
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    my external temp started to be very inaccurate, says 50 degrees when it's close to 80. this happened for a while and the AC still worked normally inside.

    This weekend the external would start aroudn 50-60 (again it was 80+ out) but then rapidly climb down in incriments of 1 all the way to negative 26, then come back up at random times. At this point the AC would start working then stop.

    when the external temp showed up back in the the 50 degree range the AC would work normally again.

    soooooo, i know the AC does work and has the ability to cool so i assume i just have an electronics problem.

    do i replace the whole climate control section in the dash, or should i change the things located behind the glove box as noted in an above post?

    hoping i can keep this a cheap DIY, other than the annoying fan clutch noise this truck has been a flawless gem.
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    Change only one thing--the outside temp sensor near the top center front of the radiator. Only costs around $15 or so at the dealer or many parts stores. Will take you maybe 15 minutes to change.

    See the following for instructions and pics (particularly post #45):

  • 2002 Envoy; 90,000 miles; 8.5 years old.. Just curious how long belts and hoses should normally last on these triplets.. I don't know of any problem, and I presume the dealer probably looks at them at oil changes (hopefully). Should any of these be changed just due to age/mileage?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    I have a 2002 TB with about the same mileage. Hoses are all still good. Serpentine belt is just starting to show wear with minor cracking on the ribs, no missing rib sections yet, so no need to change it for now.............
  • I just trouble shot a 2005 Buick Ranier for no blower motor operation.
    Head unit at HVAC controller operating normally. Have 12v at solid state blower motor
    control unit and sense wire from head unit is sending signal. Manually powered blower motor with 12v and Gnd. patch wires from connector powering motor control unit. Motor functions normally. Will replace control unit (carter group) 9643 (1P) 52409643 (2P) 001 (S) 00022101250513451994
  • jimbo104jimbo104 Posts: 1
    My son changed the tail light asembly on a 2004 Buick Rainier and in doing so changed some ends on his wires to the light assembly and did some soldering. Now the ignition switch will not shut off. Is this related or something diffenent.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Probably different. You did mean that the ignition switch is physically stuck in the ON position?
  • I would say more then likely---because turning on the ignition does not activate the lights--you can turn them on even with the ignition off so I would think one of the wires is crossed somewhere---see if you can find a schematic to trace the connections or get it down to someone who knows a lot about the electrical system of your car

    ken z
  • carrencarren Posts: 1
    I'm having the same clicking noise. I'm calling in the morning.
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