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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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  • cutty96cutty96 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I have a 96 T&C that likes to stall while at idle and occasionally at cruising speeds.
    The check engine light comes on and goes off sporadically. It now has no power with the key off(will not open locks) and every time you start it the windshield wipers operate like you just connected the battery. Also the e-brake light stays on and the air-bag light stays on. A scanner will not work as it doesn't get power from the connector. What the hell is going on?!?!?!
  • Does Anybody have the Slide Show that Nukbuk had put up a while ago...? The slide show has been taken down and I am starting to have the same problem in my T&C. Or if anybody can help me out with the locations of the soldering that needs to be done?

    THank you very much!!!

    ~Derek
  • I read all the forum and they said cluster the problem i can't find anything wrong with it. I also have no now speedo or tach that happen before this started. Any help would great
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 289
    There's a complaint filed with on the NHTSA Office of Defects database under 2010 Chrysler T&C that identifies a wiring harness grounding out on the intake manifold near the upper radiator hose being the cause of that vehicle's stalling problem. Happened when harness was wiggled a certain way. This was on a 4.0L engine, but perhaps something similar is happening with other motors.
  • jammin20jammin20 Posts: 1
    I had the instrument cluster problem in my 1998 T & C for a couple years until this past April when I did the same searching everybody does and repaired my instrument cluster myself. The van would start and stall with no readings on any of the gauges until the computer would lock everything out and make it act as if the battery was dead. I pulled out the Cluster and added a drop of solder to the 2 outer most pins, I believe they were black wires and I have not had the problem since. If I remember correctly I think I found step by step instructions with pictures somewhere on the web.
  • gordegorde Posts: 2
    Hey anderson463, I have a 1999 T&C LXi and have had numerous no start situations. My mechanic found a dead spot on the starter, R/R it, but still has a problem. He thinks it is in the instrument cluster...a bad circuit board. Makes sense, esp. after reading these comments. It's been a good vehicle for years and I want to keep it, use it like a truck, but have always had electrical problems, esp. w/pwr windows, hitch wiring and now this starting problem. I just bought a Honda Odyssey EX-L to get a more reliability factor, although I wanted to buy an American product. Too bad. I was waiting for the gas/electric prototype they were working on, like the Prius, but I heard Fiat won't continue that research for fleets like the USPS one Chysler had in the works in their Toronto plant. I can solder but I'm curious how hard it is to get the dashboard circuit board out. The blinker, directional module was easy but getting the steering wheel column back together wasn't easy. Any tips? I'm willing to try it myself now that I have a more reliable Honda. Maybe I will try ManuTec. Thanks jim16622, but you didn't say how much it cost for that repair. This vehicle has cost me too many repairs over the years, just replaced the serpentine belt and blower moter but I still sort of love it for all the hauling it's done. Gotta get the valve cover gaskets replaced too. That 3.8 is a good engine.
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    hey I replaced my instrument Cluster paid about 400 hundred for it. Also, my mechanic who works for Chrysler dealer had to program it for me as while so, It's not all that dificult to remove the instrument cluster just a little time consuming and the hard part is getting it programmed correctly. hope this helps.
  • I wish I would have found this site before I purchase my 2010. I drove the care off the lot with only 6 miles. I really didn’t know if I was ready to become a score mom at the age of 29, but my kids and I like to go out and have fun and would like to have space to bring other kids along, so for my 3 kids I become a score mom. I am not really handy with car nor do want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting for help so wanted to purchase a new car with a good warranty. I went to the dealership in Orlando Sand lake and john young. The sale was so nice took me to some use cars and try to sell me one. I told him that I didn’t want to have a user and have not clue what the last owner did to it. I told him I wanted a new car some that wont break down on me and if some was to happen to a new car it would be covered under warranty. I am really glad that I went new. ( I shouldn’t have purchase at all ) In Oct /2009. after about 1month of looking at cars I drove my van off the lot with about 6miles, and became a score mom.

    I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
    THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
    Tire light
    Door locks
    Automatic doors
    Breaks
    Start up
    Shutting off while driving :sick:
  • hatemytandchatemytandc Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    :sick: I wish I would have found this site before I purchase my 2010. I drove the care off the lot with only 6 miles. I really didn’t know if I was ready to become a score mom at the age of 29, but my kids and I like to go out and have fun and would like to have space to bring other kids along, so for my 3 kids I become a score mom. I am not really handy with car nor do want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting for help so wanted to purchase a new car with a good warranty. I went to the dealership in Orlando Sand lake and john young. The sale was so nice took me to some use cars and try to sell me one. I told him that I didn’t want to have a user and have not clue what the last owner did to it. I told him I wanted a new car some that wont break down on me and if some was to happen to a new car it would be covered under warranty. I am really glad that I went new. ( I shouldn’t have purchase at all ) In Oct /2009. after about 1month of looking at cars I drove my van off the lot with about 6miles, and became a score mom.

    I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
    THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
    Tire light
    Door locks
    Automatic doors
    Breaks
    Start up
    Shutting off while driving
  • how do you do this without going to a dealer ?
  • We're having trouble with a loud ticking sound in the engine too. We put new plugs in and a few other tune up type things and now less than 2 weeks later it's noisy under the hood, sounds like a time bomb. Someone said it was a flat spot on a something (piston/valve??? I don't know what). Then reading this I thought maybe it was the S belt going bad? Is it the spark plugs? Can anyone help?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Loud ticking sound like it could be a valve lifter that went flat. This means that the oil, which the lifter needs to operate, is not getting to the lifter or is leaking out. Sometimes they cure themselves; other times they need to be replaced.

    If it's due, try an oil and filter change with a good quality oil.
  • mnachmnach Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and our local repair shop can't figure it out. He called the dealer who seems to know nothing about this problem. Have you had any luck? It's so dangerous and I don't want to drive the vehicle, but I don't have a choice.
  • Hello, I have been following these threads and just to give a little heads up, If you remove your cluster from the dash it bypasses the security system and your vans should start. Meaning you need to purchase a NEW OR USED cluster, There are other threads i have posted on other sites regarding this.(the soldering is letting go on the back side of the cluster which in turn throws the security system into high alert and shutting down the Vehicle). What seems to be happening is the short is getting hot and when it cools down if in the right spot it will start again. If not in the right position people are running around scratching their heads bald wondering WHY WONT THIS $^%&*# THING START.
    GOOD LUCK
  • Hello after reading all the post regarding this crazy problem,,i went out to the van and repaired it my self ,,saved a couple of grand easy,,and i bet the dealer wouldn't be-able to find the problem,,a very frustrating problem, going out somewhere and not being-able ,to start the van and go home ,,it would start then shut off after a second or 2,,then after 3 or 4 times starting it would shut down then nothing ,,you would have to go find something to do for and hour then come back,presto it starts,, its a simple repair and wont cost you a dime ,,all you need is a fillips screw driver a # 15 torx driver soldering iron and solder,,remove the dash only on the drivers side take out the instrument cluster dismantle it,,re solder the the large main plug in the center ,,( WAH_LAH) your done reinstall the cluster no more ck-engine light ,no more security system issues,,no more weird acting gauges and lights,, you tube has the step by step info on re-soldering the cluster main board,,its very easy,, but it also helps im a tv repair man,,GOOD-LUCK
  • hsumnhsumn Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen several times with my 2008 Town & Country Lmtd. Of course the light comes on, but when you restart - it wipes out the code. After numerous trips to the dealership with no luck, the light came on while driving & I took it straight to dealer and insisted that the ENGINE specialist look at the van. It was the EGR VALVE. They replaced the valve & gasket and did a 3 part induction cleaning. That was at the beginning of Feb 2011 and so far no more stalling.

    But now the starter is going bad - or more likely the solenoid contacts.
  • I just joined Edmunds so don't know if you're still a member. My 2000 T&C is having the same problem. Pep Boys' master mechanic will replace ignition cylinder for around $160 but it won't be set to my original key. Were you towed to a dealer? My local dealer would give me zero info over the phone, insisting that he had to see the vehicle before talking $$ (maybe standard procedure for dealers, though). Having worked at a (non-Chrysler) dealership many years ago, I know how they are prone to overcharge but it would have the advantage of re-keying a new cylinder to my original key. Of course, I like your repair solution much better. Thanks for anything you can share about this.
  • i have had similar problems with my 1998 Chrysler T&C LXI. I found if I rearm/lock the car with the alarm bob wait for five minutes and than unarm/unlock the car will start and everthing is fine. Try it I know it worked for me it may work for you. Good luck.
  • garvey1garvey1 Posts: 2
    Well there are a few things that can cause a car to stall but with town and country and voyagers I have found out that the black thing that is on the egr valve it has three lines on it won goes to the throttle body and the other two goes to the egr valve. You do not need any tools to remove it just pop off the lines and unplug it and it's out. The top pops off inside there is a diafram with a spring the diafram burns out when that happens it will make the car stall the bad news is that the dealer nor any auto part store sells that part just by it self. most of the time the electric part of it is fine just the diafram goes bad. Yesterday I had to go to the junk yard to get won it only cost me $6.00 it was much better than $65.00 to over a hundred dollar for a new egr valve system.
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