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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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Comments

  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    To everyone with this type of starting problem, not starting, banging on the dash, sometimes works, fine for a few months and then reappearing. DONT REPLACE YOUR BATTERY, STARTER, BCM OR PCM.Behind your instrumentation panel the the circuit board and the harness attached to it is the problem. After starting and 1 to 3 seconds goes dead, the third or fourth attempt the immobilizer kicks in and you have to let it sit for hours or 24hours. then it just starts as if nothings wrong. I have done all of the above and 1000 dollars at the dealer it still is the same ffffing issue.
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    Does anyone know what the 4 flashing buttons mean? the Top two buttons Rear wiper buttons and the AC-(snowflake) and to the left of the AC button ( not sure what thats called )Is it an error code?
  • rchiirchii Posts: 7
    I would like to know if this solved your problem? I am experiencing the same problem on our '98 T & C van. Runs absolutely fine. But once in a while, door locks act up. When unlocked with key, engine will not stay running, shuts down 3 times then totally disables. No cranking at all. All lights, radio, etc. work fine. If let sit for most of a day, it will start. Also, sometimes while driving the dash goes 'out', Odometer, trans indicator, gauges, speedo, etc and the ABS and security lights come on and stay on. Then next time van is started they work again, but service engine light is on. After driving for a short while, maybe 15 miles or half hour, the service engine clears. Only code I ever get is Aux input/output problem. ???? I have begun to think the BCM was bad. But your posting is making me rethink that. I guess I could pull the dash apart, but what am I looking for? Bad connections, cracked circuit board. Did the problem get resolved on yours? I have to fix this myself, so any help would be great. My email address: rchii@hotmail.com
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    Hey,

    Got your posting and Im have forwarded you an email with
    folks with similiar issues who have communicated their results to me. Ive yet to replace my board, but plan to sometime within the next 6 months. My wife has a new used car to drive, so I dont have a real necessity to do so right now. But a good friend/associate of mine, who does all of my vehicle maintance, works for my local chrysler dealer, he's one of their top mechanics and has also confirmed my issue with one of thier vans as well. Changed the circuit board and fixed the problem.

    But if you plan on spending the money, for the BCM,PCM,Battery,starter....etc, do the board first, it's about 420 for the board, plus the labor, or if you can do it yourself, even better. Please, advise how you make out.

    Miz
  • rchiirchii Posts: 7
    I can not believe it... The van just
    acted up' again for my wife. This time I told her that "it sounds odd, but try hitting the dash".. She said she had the key in the on, but not crankng position. When she hit the dash some of the lights blinked, then she hit it again and different ones blinked, on the third hit she said they all blinked and she then tried to start the van. Tah-Dah, the van fired right up. I am now convinced that it is a dash problem. I was just about the sink 1000 plus dollars into a set of computers for it. I have been checking around for an instrument panel, and might get lucky, possibly a $100.00 part. Just have to find out what years, models fit/match. Or I have a little electronics background, may be able to repair the board myself. I will post what I find wrong with the circuit board when I take it apart. This forum has been a lifesaver. Thanks to all...
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    Just an fyi, hitting the dash works most of the time but every now and then it wont.

    Good luck,
  • Ok here we go...I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport, 99000 miles. I have a intermittent starting problem with the van. Every now and then it will start about three times for about 2 sec. each and then not start at all. Lights work on the dash (ABS, temp, etc.) but no gauges. After several hours it will finally start. I have read messages about it timing out due to excessive failures to start, and if I beat on the dash it will start. Well, after reading these messages I tried this technique and it started. Ok..what is my problem? Is it the dash circuit board? I am at whits end! This has been reoccurring for the past two years and every shop and dealership has not been able to help. As they say..if it ain't broke, they can't fix it. And by the time I get it towed to a shop,,,it ain't broke. So,,,whoever can direct me, it would greatly be appreciated.
  • rchiirchii Posts: 7
    I have been struggling with this same problem for a few months now. Hitting the dash has been working. I plan to take it apart this coming weekend. I will post what I find wrong and what I do to fix it. I have been reading that this seems to be a common problem with Chrsyler vehicles in the '97 ~ 2000 year range. Especially the Vans, Sebrings and cloud cars. Some of the info I have gathered indicated a cold solder joint on the circuit board, which would be a relatively easy fix. Some info points at a bad or cracked circuit board. Which I would have a harder time believing, circuits boards do not generally crack unless they are stressed, twisted, bent,etc. Bob H.
  • asetachasetach Posts: 1
    Hi, I have 97 ply van starts and stalls all the same problems everyone is having... I wonder if we can rule out the dash circuit board (inst. circuit board), I have the dash out and van starts and run OK. I have now taken the BCM and circuit board out and I will clean all the connections that plug into it. Does anyone have thoughts about using dielect lube on connections? What is best.
  • kayode65kayode65 Posts: 8
    I am just curious to know what brand of spark plugs and wire set guys are using on their T&C's. Mopar from Chrysler is running at $11 each and wires are $60. I understand that Champion make the Mopar parts (not verified).

    Bosch plugs and wires are cheaper from Autozone. has anyone had any experience of these, or other brands. My van is now on 82000 miles and I feel its time for a tune up.

    Any info is well appreciated.
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    Asetech,

    On one of my many tows to the dealer, I had my dealer do the same,Clean out all the connections, apply the spray to keep the connections clean. Yet, I still have the same problem. I have not yet to change the circuit board.

    mizafer@yahoo.com
  • faith_4x4faith_4x4 Posts: 2
    Did either of you with this problem find a solution? Our 1998 TC LXI is doing the same exact thing.
  • While driving my 1997 DGC my speedometer stops working and the engine starts to stall and acts erratic. It will not stop but feels like the whole van will stop and leave me by the side of the road. Any ideas as to what this is. Thanks
  • faith_4x4faith_4x4 Posts: 2
    We just had the tranny rebuilt- thinking that the metal chunks we found in it when we had it flushed could be related to the neutral switch- causing the van to not start at sporadic times.

    It has started all week every time- and then last night it left us stuck again. SAME problem- turn the key, all the dash lights come on but the van doesn't crank or start. It just sits there. After wiggling the gear shifter, opening the hood and hitting the relays (tried replacing the starter relay the FIRST time this happened) and then I remembered the advice on this forum- hit the dash. I did and it started right away.

    SO... What does this mean? Has anyone truly FIXED this problem? What did you do? Help!!!
  • lesliej78lesliej78 Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 town & country lxi. I've had the same problems as everybody else. I had to finally take it in to chrysler because that was my only transportation. They told me it was the body control module and wanted to charge me 850.00. I called salvage dealers and the part only cost between 75-100. I plan to get it this week and a friend is going to fix it. I will let everybody know if it works.
  • I would not spend the money on it. Several other people have replaced the BCM with the same problem and it worked for a couple days and hen the same thing.

    I have a 2000 T&C that will run rough (sproatic rpm), stall at idle when I touch the excellerator and "shutter" when cruising at highway speeds. We have spent waaaayyy too much getting spark plugs, wires, the fuel filter all replaced. Ours has an after market remote starter, the mechanic thought is was that. We had that worked on and again, it worked fine for a couple days and then on a trip to Wilmington, it started acting up again. The earlier threads are interesting about using the valey key to unlock the doors may be linked. My wife has the key fob. I do not. I use the valey key. It only seems to happen to me. Either way, I have over $1000 into this van and it still does the exact same thing. And now, the passanger side window is only working sporatically. I am calling it quicks and getting a different vehicle and this will be my first and last chrysler product!
  • lesliej78lesliej78 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice! Did you ever have work done on the circuit board? Ive been reading other comments that have been posted and somebody said that it could be the circuit board.
  • greggloajgreggloaj Posts: 3
    I have experienced the exact same problem with my 97 DGC. Have you ever determined what caused this problem, or does anyone else know? Autozone informed me that it's the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), but the van does not have code 15 which is for VSS failure. Any insight would be great.
    Thanks.
  • I bought this van from a dealership. 2 days after I got it neither key would turn in the ignition. I took it back to the dealer and they got the key to work and said that the alarm was causing it to lock up and that nothing was wrong. Well know its 2 days later and the same thing is happening. If I keep messing the key(sometimes 1 hour) it will turn. I need some answers before I go back to the dealer.(Help Stranded)
  • momstaxiemomstaxie Posts: 6
    Had this problem in Feb. No key would turn. Had it towed. As per invoice they removed ignition cylinder and dissasembled, cleaned and lubed tumblers and reassembled. $85.
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • francinfrancin Posts: 2
    I just had this problem on my 99 T&C, although my AC felt cold and I didn't think it was bad, it means the AC is faulty. They replaced my AC and now the flashing has stopped ($300).
  • francinfrancin Posts: 2
    I have had this ongoing problem for a year now. The car will be working great, then all at once won't start. I'll be driving down the road and the gages will all stop working, then 1/2 hour later, they will just start working again. I have noticed that if I don't use my transmitter to lock and unlock the car, then the problem happens less often. My husband said all along that it was a communication between the alarm system and the car. He believed that the instrument cluster had to be changed which has the circuit board in it. The car was towed to a chrysler dealership and $800 later with a new battery, alternator, surpentene belt and AC, the problem came back after 2 weeks. When my husband took it there he told them he felt it was a communication problem, but they treat you like you don't know what your talking about. Now I see there are post saying that it is the circuit board in the instrument panel. My husband is going to get a instrument cluster and change it himself. He has a college degree in mechanics, but he doesn't do it for a career, but he's going to do this himself because he frustrated with this ongoing problem. I will post and let you know if it works.
  • hi all, i have a 98 town & country doing the same thing. very erratic. i did find a corroded battery cable (+) that was correded through on the one that went to the fuse box and and fixed that (new cable is over $1k from chrylser becasue they dont make it and you have to buy the entire wiring harness. i spent 8 bucks and got a splice kit....i thought that was the problem but was only a problem and the original one is still there. btw, on mine the "alarm set" is on the dash when sitting still and it wont stay running for more than a second after starting. use of key fob or not doesnt matter. someone has to have found the fix given all the people who have the problem. it is my kids car that we have had since new so not worth spending thousands on but is still a great teenager car. it also does the run rough and speedo go on and off if it happens while driving as well. i am totally convinced it is related to the alarm like everyone else says. i will post if i find any thing on my scott.
  • A couple weeks after posting my response dated 20 July, my van finally tripped code 15. I replaced the VSS and spliced in a new plug (no choice since the plug connection is different from the old one). Anyway, the old plug was corroded and full of grease/oil--suspect this was the problem all along with the speedometer dropping to 0 and momentary loss of power. Since replacing these parts (VSS and plug), my van has not experienced the same problem...
  • We have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country that has started giving us problems. About six months ago some lights were left on and the battery died. Since then we have had problems with it needing to be jump started periodically. We just got a new battery yesterday because the battery died and we had no power, no dinging when the key was inserted nothing. Right after installing the new battery I walked out of the car parts store and tried to start it. Nothing again, not even the dinging. I went back in and told the guy who had just put it in. He came out and tested the charge on the battery. It was a new battery so there was not problem there. Then he had me crank it. It cranked up perfectly. After he went in I turned it off and cranked it again to see if it was a fluke. It started right up. Today the same thing happened, no power. I had to jump it off. Some guy stopped by and said he thought it might be the alternator. I don't know, but am going to try that next.
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