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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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Comments

  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    Asetech,

    On one of my many tows to the dealer, I had my dealer do the same,Clean out all the connections, apply the spray to keep the connections clean. Yet, I still have the same problem. I have not yet to change the circuit board.

    mizafer@yahoo.com
  • faith_4x4faith_4x4 Posts: 2
    Did either of you with this problem find a solution? Our 1998 TC LXI is doing the same exact thing.
  • While driving my 1997 DGC my speedometer stops working and the engine starts to stall and acts erratic. It will not stop but feels like the whole van will stop and leave me by the side of the road. Any ideas as to what this is. Thanks
  • faith_4x4faith_4x4 Posts: 2
    We just had the tranny rebuilt- thinking that the metal chunks we found in it when we had it flushed could be related to the neutral switch- causing the van to not start at sporadic times.

    It has started all week every time- and then last night it left us stuck again. SAME problem- turn the key, all the dash lights come on but the van doesn't crank or start. It just sits there. After wiggling the gear shifter, opening the hood and hitting the relays (tried replacing the starter relay the FIRST time this happened) and then I remembered the advice on this forum- hit the dash. I did and it started right away.

    SO... What does this mean? Has anyone truly FIXED this problem? What did you do? Help!!!
  • lesliej78lesliej78 Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 town & country lxi. I've had the same problems as everybody else. I had to finally take it in to chrysler because that was my only transportation. They told me it was the body control module and wanted to charge me 850.00. I called salvage dealers and the part only cost between 75-100. I plan to get it this week and a friend is going to fix it. I will let everybody know if it works.
  • I would not spend the money on it. Several other people have replaced the BCM with the same problem and it worked for a couple days and hen the same thing.

    I have a 2000 T&C that will run rough (sproatic rpm), stall at idle when I touch the excellerator and "shutter" when cruising at highway speeds. We have spent waaaayyy too much getting spark plugs, wires, the fuel filter all replaced. Ours has an after market remote starter, the mechanic thought is was that. We had that worked on and again, it worked fine for a couple days and then on a trip to Wilmington, it started acting up again. The earlier threads are interesting about using the valey key to unlock the doors may be linked. My wife has the key fob. I do not. I use the valey key. It only seems to happen to me. Either way, I have over $1000 into this van and it still does the exact same thing. And now, the passanger side window is only working sporatically. I am calling it quicks and getting a different vehicle and this will be my first and last chrysler product!
  • lesliej78lesliej78 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice! Did you ever have work done on the circuit board? Ive been reading other comments that have been posted and somebody said that it could be the circuit board.
  • greggloajgreggloaj Posts: 3
    I have experienced the exact same problem with my 97 DGC. Have you ever determined what caused this problem, or does anyone else know? Autozone informed me that it's the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), but the van does not have code 15 which is for VSS failure. Any insight would be great.
    Thanks.
  • I bought this van from a dealership. 2 days after I got it neither key would turn in the ignition. I took it back to the dealer and they got the key to work and said that the alarm was causing it to lock up and that nothing was wrong. Well know its 2 days later and the same thing is happening. If I keep messing the key(sometimes 1 hour) it will turn. I need some answers before I go back to the dealer.(Help Stranded)
  • momstaxiemomstaxie Posts: 6
    Had this problem in Feb. No key would turn. Had it towed. As per invoice they removed ignition cylinder and dissasembled, cleaned and lubed tumblers and reassembled. $85.
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • francinfrancin Posts: 2
    I just had this problem on my 99 T&C, although my AC felt cold and I didn't think it was bad, it means the AC is faulty. They replaced my AC and now the flashing has stopped ($300).
  • francinfrancin Posts: 2
    I have had this ongoing problem for a year now. The car will be working great, then all at once won't start. I'll be driving down the road and the gages will all stop working, then 1/2 hour later, they will just start working again. I have noticed that if I don't use my transmitter to lock and unlock the car, then the problem happens less often. My husband said all along that it was a communication between the alarm system and the car. He believed that the instrument cluster had to be changed which has the circuit board in it. The car was towed to a chrysler dealership and $800 later with a new battery, alternator, surpentene belt and AC, the problem came back after 2 weeks. When my husband took it there he told them he felt it was a communication problem, but they treat you like you don't know what your talking about. Now I see there are post saying that it is the circuit board in the instrument panel. My husband is going to get a instrument cluster and change it himself. He has a college degree in mechanics, but he doesn't do it for a career, but he's going to do this himself because he frustrated with this ongoing problem. I will post and let you know if it works.
  • hi all, i have a 98 town & country doing the same thing. very erratic. i did find a corroded battery cable (+) that was correded through on the one that went to the fuse box and and fixed that (new cable is over $1k from chrylser becasue they dont make it and you have to buy the entire wiring harness. i spent 8 bucks and got a splice kit....i thought that was the problem but was only a problem and the original one is still there. btw, on mine the "alarm set" is on the dash when sitting still and it wont stay running for more than a second after starting. use of key fob or not doesnt matter. someone has to have found the fix given all the people who have the problem. it is my kids car that we have had since new so not worth spending thousands on but is still a great teenager car. it also does the run rough and speedo go on and off if it happens while driving as well. i am totally convinced it is related to the alarm like everyone else says. i will post if i find any thing on my scott.
  • A couple weeks after posting my response dated 20 July, my van finally tripped code 15. I replaced the VSS and spliced in a new plug (no choice since the plug connection is different from the old one). Anyway, the old plug was corroded and full of grease/oil--suspect this was the problem all along with the speedometer dropping to 0 and momentary loss of power. Since replacing these parts (VSS and plug), my van has not experienced the same problem...
  • We have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country that has started giving us problems. About six months ago some lights were left on and the battery died. Since then we have had problems with it needing to be jump started periodically. We just got a new battery yesterday because the battery died and we had no power, no dinging when the key was inserted nothing. Right after installing the new battery I walked out of the car parts store and tried to start it. Nothing again, not even the dinging. I went back in and told the guy who had just put it in. He came out and tested the charge on the battery. It was a new battery so there was not problem there. Then he had me crank it. It cranked up perfectly. After he went in I turned it off and cranked it again to see if it was a fluke. It started right up. Today the same thing happened, no power. I had to jump it off. Some guy stopped by and said he thought it might be the alternator. I don't know, but am going to try that next.
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