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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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Comments

  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I have a 2007 Grand Caravan, and have never experienced your problem.

    When it cuts out, do all the warning lights on the dash come on , meaning the engine had really died?
  • roeteenaroeteena Posts: 4
    I am more than ready for a lawsuit,just keep me informed.
  • No lights come on. The dash is blank and the car is off. I coast to the side of the road, turn the key to the off position then turn it back on and it starts.
  • Dashboard circut board, or possibly bad ground or short in ignition?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Something in the dash as joepeterson56 said. If it was just the engine cutting out, all the indicators on the dash would light up, I think.

    Does anything else in the passenger compartment shut down/turn off when this happens? How 'bout the radio? Fan? Do your headlights remain on or do they go off also?
  • aka_ojayaka_ojay Posts: 6
    On my Van 1999 T & C, the right side signal light does not light up.
    Sometime it does and sometime it does not.

    The bulb is god just has issues
  • martyimartyi Posts: 1
    Nukbik:
    Any chance of getting a copy of the video you mention. I tried the link but looks like Comcast doesn't support it anymore. Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,445
    I just noticed that on Friday. I hope the video is available somewhere, because it was excellent. Figures it would be gone only days before I was going to pull apart my van to extract the panel. I'm sure I can figure it out without the step-by-step, but it sure is nice to save that extra trouble....
  • iowayneiowayne Posts: 1
    Mine is a '98 t and c lxi
    For those that keep asking what works, I believe this does. I myself bought another instrument cluster for around $100. I installed it today after seeing this post. I figured if I replied to the post it would make it easier for the people reading here at the end. If you can't make out the link, here it is.

    http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html

    if I have any more of the same problem I will post. If I don't, then everything worked great.

    I also have an alternator problem that I just found out about too, so I'll be fixing that too.
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    I hope you have the same resolution as I have had. Since I replaced my instrument cluster I have not had any startiing issues. Not Once. My starting issue has be resolved.

    Good luck to all
  • mark3694mark3694 Posts: 3
    nukbuk where can i see your video comcast does not support anymore. I have been dealing with this problem for years now on my 2002 t&c and have ended up where i should have started on the internet. Thanks mark
  • mark3694mark3694 Posts: 3
    Add me to the list of class action. I have been dealing for years with this problem obviously dealerships do not use computers b/c it didn't take much searching to find that this has been an ongoing problem for years! Yet they are still clueless
    Mark
  • nukbuknukbuk Posts: 2
    Mark, here is the link to the pictures. I'm notthe original poster of the slide show, which has since been removed from the website. I was able to fix my van, but now I'm having other sensor problems that cause the car to stall out. http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics
  • alpineptalpinept Posts: 4
    Don't know if you are still interested in this but i would love to be included. I am tired of not knowing if my van is going to leave me stranded somewhere or not. The van is my primary vehicle, and i am afraid to take it out of town in fear that i might get stranded somewhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • tgarlandtgarland Posts: 1
    Roy,

    Did you ever find out the problem. I started having this problem yesterday, I was coming up to a stop sign and my 99 Chrysler mini van stalled. I put it in neutral and restarted. It seems to happen with around town driving.
    Thanks,
  • mckay2mckay2 Posts: 1
    Hi there! Still working ok? This has caused me a great deal of stress (nothing like being stranded in the middle of nowhere with your wife and 3 kids under 6, 75 miles from home)

    I am hoping to get my car home tomorrow and will be looking at replacing the instrument panel.
  • My good news is, it has not done this in a long time.

    The bad news, I never did discover what was causing the problem...sorry...
  • kablokablo Posts: 2
    I have an 05 T&C eng. light came on the code was #2 scondary circute ignition coil is bad, I changed the coil/wires/plugs when started noticed #3 and 5 are crossed wire. I corrected the prob. then started the van still same code (code was cleared) was detected. shut off the eng. the check the wires /plugs /coil. everything was OK. started the eng. Battery light came on, dicounnected the Neg. wire from Battery, eng ran ok , so I thought Alt. is good. tyrned the eng. off , connected the neg. wire . tried to start nothing ahappened( no starter and no fire on plugs), after 3 atempt eng started and I checked the wures from alternator , I had to shut off and on 3-4 times. after ther 4th time starter did not work and no fire on plugs, too it 2 local mechanic , I was told ECM is bad , they changed it, it did not work, I too the van to Ansira chrysler dealer and I was told Skim madual which dealer said code reads the code on the key's chip (gray color keis), My van hs Blak key and has no chip in it.Iwas charged $365.00 for it and still no start then I was told I have to change the ECM (anothe $1100.00) and no garranty if it works( It was garrantied when they change the skim madual the van will work fin). Now my van is in drive way B/C I didnot want to pay more to dealer ,then hear that it is not starting and more more $ for dealer. Any clue to fix the van will be appriciated.
  • Hi all,
    This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,445
    A member posted the process in the "Instrument Cluster" thread. I think I kept a copy of it (I am looking now), but it involves more than just the trim around the cluster. You have to start on the bottom of the dash paneling (below the steering wheel) and work your way up. Indeed, 90% of the work is just removing all of the trim!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,445
    Well, darn.... I cannot find it. I downloaded a copy of the process information that the member posted, but I cannot remember his handle nor the thread in which it was posted. I did not find it in the Instrument Panel (rather than Cluster) thread.

    Looking at his photos, though, all of the trim on the driver side of the dash is removed: Under the steering wheel, over it, and the bezel around the instrument cluster that includes the driver side and center air vents.
  • My Chrysler Town and Country is acting funny when I try to start it. It acts like it doesn't want to start but it does. This just started happening recently and I was wondering what the problem would be.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,445
    More information, such as year, engine, etc., is always helpful....
  • Hi Guys,
    I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,445
    I am not sure if you stated this already, but did you replace the plug wires? If not, I recommend doing so. If you have replaced them, the problem is likely in the ignition module. It sounds like poor spark. You should be able to check resistance on both of those items (plug wires and ignition module) with a multimeter.

    I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary!
  • yeah i changed the plug wires i just want to make sure how would i connect the multimeter to test
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,445
    I have not done it myself, but here are the instructions in my Haynes manual. Actually, reading it, it sounds like the ignition coil (not module, as I had said) is likely the culprit because two cylinders (one on each side of the engine) are paired on each coil. As such, you may have one bad coil in the ignition coil. Here goes:

    On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.

    1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
    2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack.
    3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
    4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
    5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.

    And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification:

    First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right:

    1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6
    2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4
    3. B+
    4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5

    The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus:

    315
    642

    Ignition coil resistance specifications:
    Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
    Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
  • thanks for the info i ended up changing the ignition coil and it still burned up the spark plugs then i took it to auto zone and they pluged into the ecu to check my check engine and found that my egr and my 6 fuel injector was bad so i changed them both and got another fuel injector since the othe plug was burning still nothing my car is like a roller coaster bouncing all over the place and now some times stalling any other ideas
  • I have a 1996 town & country.
    I replaced the starter, cam and crank sensor, fuel pump and both Pcm's and it still will not start, and also replaced the coil pack.
    Any other suggestions.
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