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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    A member posted the process in the "Instrument Cluster" thread. I think I kept a copy of it (I am looking now), but it involves more than just the trim around the cluster. You have to start on the bottom of the dash paneling (below the steering wheel) and work your way up. Indeed, 90% of the work is just removing all of the trim!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Well, darn.... I cannot find it. I downloaded a copy of the process information that the member posted, but I cannot remember his handle nor the thread in which it was posted. I did not find it in the Instrument Panel (rather than Cluster) thread.

    Looking at his photos, though, all of the trim on the driver side of the dash is removed: Under the steering wheel, over it, and the bezel around the instrument cluster that includes the driver side and center air vents.
  • My Chrysler Town and Country is acting funny when I try to start it. It acts like it doesn't want to start but it does. This just started happening recently and I was wondering what the problem would be.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    More information, such as year, engine, etc., is always helpful....
  • Hi Guys,
    I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I am not sure if you stated this already, but did you replace the plug wires? If not, I recommend doing so. If you have replaced them, the problem is likely in the ignition module. It sounds like poor spark. You should be able to check resistance on both of those items (plug wires and ignition module) with a multimeter.

    I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary!
  • yeah i changed the plug wires i just want to make sure how would i connect the multimeter to test
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I have not done it myself, but here are the instructions in my Haynes manual. Actually, reading it, it sounds like the ignition coil (not module, as I had said) is likely the culprit because two cylinders (one on each side of the engine) are paired on each coil. As such, you may have one bad coil in the ignition coil. Here goes:

    On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.

    1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
    2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack.
    3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
    4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
    5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.

    And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification:

    First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right:

    1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6
    2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4
    3. B+
    4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5

    The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus:

    315
    642

    Ignition coil resistance specifications:
    Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
    Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
  • thanks for the info i ended up changing the ignition coil and it still burned up the spark plugs then i took it to auto zone and they pluged into the ecu to check my check engine and found that my egr and my 6 fuel injector was bad so i changed them both and got another fuel injector since the othe plug was burning still nothing my car is like a roller coaster bouncing all over the place and now some times stalling any other ideas
  • I have a 1996 town & country.
    I replaced the starter, cam and crank sensor, fuel pump and both Pcm's and it still will not start, and also replaced the coil pack.
    Any other suggestions.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    What does it do?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I'm with xwesx. Tell us what it does do.

    Does it crank? Does it try to run and then just dies? Do you have spark at any/all of the plugs? Do you have fuel flow into the fuel injectors (that is, is the fuel pump working)? Was it running fine one day, then just suddenly decided not to start the next?

    Tell us a bit more about the vehicle? How many miles? What engine? Any previous history of a problem like this?
  • My Van Has 197,000 miles on it. It has a 3.3 V6 Engine. The engine cranks but will not start. It is not getting any spark. Like I said I change the coil pack, crank and cam sensors, Fuel Pump. The engine is getting fuel. I replaced Both PCM's but I replace them with used ones from the junk yard. Before I replaced both pcm's the van only had a problem with the starter.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    OK - thanks for the additional information.

    Unfortunately, I can't tell you where to go from here. I assume the PCM (ECU) is getting +12V?

    I had the 3.3L in our '94 DC, but never had any problems with the ignition, so never had to replace or troubleshoot the parts you've already replaced.
  • h2o1h2o1 Posts: 1
    i have 2001 towne@country drives &runs great at night when cold doesnt start right away in mourning after 30min to an hour it starts like nothing wrong ive changed starter,alternator plugs this is secons year with problem
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Posted this over in the regular Caravan section, but thought I'd try it here also.

    My wife drives our 2007 DGC with the 3.8L engine. We bought it used 2 years ago and it now has 59,600 miles on it.

    I started the van up the other day (Dec 22) to take it to get new tires. The car had been sitting in the driveway all day, temperature around 30 deg F. Immediately upon starting, I heard a loud bang, sort of like a belt coming off. I checked the serpentine belt and it was fine. The engine ran rough for a few seconds, like a cylinder was missing, then smoothed out. The CEL came on, but then cleared itself a day or two later. I pulled the codes anyway and got a P0306-"cylinder 6 misfire".

    Now, whenever we start the van up from a cold soak (overnight), there's a slight stumbling/missing that clears up in few seconds. This only occurs after sitting for several hours - it does not happen when you turn the engine off and back on again in a few minutes. Also, there's a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine - where the serpentine belt is. The CEL is off, and I have not read the OBD-II port to see if any codes have been stored since I cleared them out.

    I'm thinking maybe a valve lifter went bad (#6 cylinder?), in that it drains it's oil when then engine sits and needs to be pumped back up again when the engine starts.

    Anyone else experience this? I've heard good things, longevity-wise about the 3.8L, and hope it's not a lifter.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I agree that it sounds valve-related. Either a lifter or a sticking valve guide? Ticking is common if the oil level gets low as well, but should quiet down once the oil is topped off.
  • I have a 1997 DGC that has the exact same problem with a lot more miles (140K). I suspect it is valve related; the van burns a lot of oil and whenever it is low on oil, the noise gets a lot worse--as the previous posting by xwesx already indicated. However, my van is over 10 years old and I don't want to invest any more money into it. Especially after replacing a transmission on it...seems to be a common problem amongst DGCs. Perhaps the ticking problem is another common problem seen in DGCs, or not?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Ticking w/ low oil (usually anything more than 1 quart) is common in any engine and is a pretty sure-fire way of knowing you should check and top off the oil ASAP. I have 215,000 miles on my 1998 3.8L and the engine runs like it was new. I am actually astonished how well the engine runs and the fact that it has no oil leaks whatsoever. Now, if only the electrical system were not crap.....

    If you were in Alaska, I would be all for transplanting my engine into your van - I am confident you would get years more service out of it. ;)
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I changed the oil and filter this weekend, using Mobil 1 5W-30. Oil level is now good, but still hear the tapping a bit at start up. Seems to clear up completely once the engine is warmed up, though, as I alluded to, my wife drives the van most of the time, so I don't get to hear things much after the van is warm.

    What has me puzzled is that loud rap I heard when the problem first showed up - the one I said sounded like a belt breaking.
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