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2010+ Buick Lacrosse Body, Chassis and Exterior



  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I understand the road noise concept with tires, etc. Quieter tires would be option. But also noise travels through the metal from whatever source.
    I mentioned somewhere that I had a 84 Topaz diesel that the factory did an outstanding sound and vibration dampening on. The whole underside was sprayed with something that gave it a rimple surface and that painted over.

    Ziebart was the only thing I could think of that might be aftermarket. I had a friend whose father had a 56 Dodge Corona that had been Ziebart. This was his everyday car and it looked show room fresh during the mid 80's and it was attributed to the Ziebart rustproofing and coating.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Just noticed a new motion at 1800 miles. It was not there earlier.
    On cornering it now sometimes displays a wobble, duck walk, motion. 90 degree turns that is.
    It could certainly lead to scalloping of tire if that is not what is causing it.
    At any other time it certainly does not act like alignment.
    I will have to keep an eye on it.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    CXL Touring package.
    Upon returning from cold country where I had to add 3# of pressure, it was of course 3# high at home.
    I drove a couple of days until I was able to adjust.
    I would definitely recommend against over airing these tires. It gave the feeling of riding on narrow bicycle tires for handling and transferred even slight road imperfections. It also felt like I was riding on center tread with no sidewall flex. A sure way to scuff the tread at the center, along with sense of less traction.
    For those who say to air to max pressure on tire, I'm sure manufacturer did not intend tire to be road on with a laterally curved surface.
    In an attempt to stop such manufacturers tried a steel band in place of steel cord for awhile. It might be because some were not airing tires up enough but it was stopped because of real world experiences. That solid steel band would suffer metal fatique, crack, and separate with explosive results.
  • tom2246tom2246 Posts: 29
    I had the "fix" done the week after Thanksgiving and to my delight my car now steers and rides as it should. I would add that it steers much better than it did, more road feedback is how I would describe it.

    I would add that they also replaced the seat rack, everything but the actual seat, and it also behaves much better than the old one. I wonder if the seat issues mentioned elsewhere would be fixed by this very pricey fix (GM says it's a $500 part).
  • bobinorbobinor Posts: 63
    Has anyone added splash guards to their LaCrosse wheel wells? Are they effective?

    I see dirty water marks as high as the contour just below the side windows after driving on wet roads. Those 19" wheels sure throw up the muck. I wouldn't want to ruin the stylish looks of my CXS but if splash guards can be added without doing that and they are functional, I would consider them. I'm also concerned about the tires kicking up gravel that could chip away at the finish from mid-door down. Am I imagining a problem that doesn't need a solution?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I've noticed how nasty my car gets having driven on salted roads. The pattern sounds quite similar to what you describe and suspect it is not because of tires but airflow around vehicle. The little factory flaps might be sufficient to stop any stone chips if that shows up as a problem.
    Unfortunately a truck in adjacent lane already got my hood and I do not see galvanizing like I would have on the Aurora.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I've noticed the chrome port is getting nasty from exhaust. It pretty much makes me wonder why it does not have an extension. Other models exit under the vehicle with a bend at the end of the pipe.
    If anyone tries an extention and find it works, please post back.
    I think some nice chrome extentions might look nice.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Not sure if wife did it or it happened while driving through some icey snow, but driver front wheel now has scratches, very shallow. Mostly it is removed finish and I am looking for ideas to repair it.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,060
    net rider, here are two posts that addresses your question:

    Post #716 -- Aug 04, 2010 (10:57 am)

    Replying to: bass21279 (Aug 04, 2010 6:47 am)
    I did the same thign to my rim. Have you looke dinto any options to have it replaced? Would this be worth an insurance claim?

    bass21279, The damage is minor, just a scratch really, and probably one would not notice it unless they were looking very closely. However, the so-called alloy wheel is covered with a plastic coating so I am not sure how the scratch will age.

    Post #749 -- Aug 14, 2010 (7:11 am)
    Replying to: bass21279 (Aug 04, 2010 6:47 am)

    bass21279 --- What do you know, the dealer fixed the scratch on my 19" rims and it looks as good as new, so good in fact you cannot differentiate the repair from the other wheels. I don't know how they did it but essentially the body shop removed the rim from the tire, polished the rim and then applied the factory coating to make it look exactly like the other wheels. They said they had done the same thing for an elderly woman who had more extensive damage on both passenger side rims.

    Cost? No charge. He said since they had not paired my cell phone or properly explained the operation of the memory seat when I took delivery then the wheel repair was complimentary and on the house. Hmm! pretty nice, even treating me like a Lexus customer. Heck, for the price I paid for this car I think I deserve it. Way to go Buick.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thank you very much. I mention it next time vehicle goes in.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    After my little rant about seat memory in the main topic I figured it was time to update this issue.
    I have a habit of avoiding steering hard to limits so I don't strain components, but sooner or later you will find those limits. Then I would release wheel just enough to bounce back from that position.
    Mine has started making the loud clunk when reaching limit. Others have posted of it and I presumed it was the sound of hitting the limiter. Not so in my case it seems. It sounds and feels like the joint is popping from its seat.
    Many of these joints are a machined ball and socket and the ball is held seated by a spring. The spring maintains tightness of the joint as it wears and the spring has a lot of pressure. I've seen the naiive sold unnecessary ball joint and tie-rod jobs. Mechanic uses a very large pair of pliers and squeezes to overcome spring. The movement is used to sell an unnecessary repair. (I wonder how many of the new parts would act the same way.)
    This case, the ball is popping from the socket from power steering force. At the least, the limiter is located in the wrong place it seems. It should be at the rack it seems. And if the rack pops it can enough road forces be generated to pop it? This could be a serious control problem under extreme dangerous conditions. And would certainly get worse with time as demonstrated by the fact it does not do new, but does start popping with low mileage.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I've probably noticed the slight gap before, the seal at the front edge of door. I just learned that it is not part of fender but attached to door. These seals are obviously not making full contact with fender.
    Anyone else notice this?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I had previously posted about the large amounts of weight when the car was near new. As much as a dozen weights inside and outside on most wheels.
    I can see no weights whatsoever since the rebalance at 8000 miles. Could there really have been that much change?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My previous post about the door seals at front of door not making contact with fender was glazed over at dealer. But then there are so many issues, more pressing as well.
    I gave mine a good hand wash this morning. Has anyone else started noticing seals that are shifting as if they might be shrinking since install?
    On all four doors, along front edge, you will see what might be a splice point during manufacturer. On two doors it is completely separated and on the other two it is partially separated, not all the way through yet.
    And the seal that runs from front to back along bottom of door openings, held a little surprise. You owners that are in salt country are going to love this one.
    Water kept dripping long after I finished drying car and I looked closely at the seal, pulling it a bit away from body near back. Car was in inclined driveway so water was working its way that direction. I found a small rectangular hole on the inner/upper side. The darned thing was full of water. I checked and could not find a drain hole in it. Just lovely. A place to hold water in contact with the body, and salt.
    Upon drying the inner surfaces of doors and cavities after washing, I paid a bit closer attention to the right side because it seems I am hearing more road noise from that side. It was more a curiosity thing than else because it may be the acoustics of the interior. But now suspect this as a source of some wind noise behind me as well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I washed with Armorall car wash but am slightly disappointed.
    Neighbor turned his sprinkler on and watered my side yard and most of driveway. Water spots are all over my car.
    Does anyone know a product good for removing them?
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Rider: We have used (only) the pink clearcoat glaze that the dealers use to prep and detail new cars. Comes in a gallon jug and costs less than $30 last time. Jug lasts forever and product has no residual haze for darker colors. Our silver 2010 Lacrosse is foregiving but our Black Bonneville is not.
    Beautiful product if dealer will sell to you since they get it from local wholesalers. Very light abrasive rating so it removes the water spots w/o affecting the finish and EASY to use.
    Good luck.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Might that be Strawberry wet wax? Applied with buffer and wet sponge?
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    No. the clear coat glaze is applied as a thick liquid and dries to a haze.
    dealer item thru local distributor where we live. not really expensive given how long a gallon lasts even with multiple cars.
    Excellent product for dark finish cars IMO.
  • I have a Black LaCrosse with water spots compliments of Palm Springs, CA garden sprinklers. Crankee: can you provide a brand name/model # of the glaze product you are referring to?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited June 2011
    The wet wax/glaze is allowed to dry and then is easily dusted off. Man running the dealer detail shop told me they order from Florida.
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