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Subaru Impreza WRX

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Comments

  • kostamojen2kostamojen2 Member Posts: 284
    You ripped him off! Thats just not right...
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    congrats on the purchase! Welcome to the club.

    Patti
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    A fool and his money will soon part. If he wanted it that badly and pushed for you to sell, well, love is blind.

    That's a pretty good budget for mods!

    -juice
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    Bill Kolb Subaru (845-398-6323) is advertising a special price on the 17" BBS wheels mounted and balanced with Pirelli 215/45-ZR17 tires -- $1777.00 for the set of four. See the 06/18 issue of AutoWeek.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds a lot better than $3k without the rubber.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    There must be a whole lot of mark up on those BBS wheels!

    Bob
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    And that surprises you how?

    --Frank P.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    by degree. It surprises me that they think they can get that much mark up. But as PT Barnum said, "There's a sucker born every minute." More power to them if they can get it.

    Maybe this dealer bought a bunch of these wheels anticipating a strong demand, and then got stuck with them, and is now trying to unload them??

    Bob
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    the same BBS wheels then the $1777 price especially w/tires is a steal compared to the $3000 Subaru is asking for wheels alone...read "no tires included"!

    Stephen
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    ... witness the guy (above) who paid $6K on top of what someone else paid to get his hands on a used car. That kind of money buys a VERY nice, low mileage E36 M3. The AutoWeek ad says the BBS wheels they have are "made for Subaru", so maybe these are the real deal.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I figure that's about $300 per rim, $125 per tire, and the rest for mouting/balancing.

    It's at least down to earth, if not a bargain.

    -juice
  • shan888shan888 Member Posts: 4
    the BBS rims with tires around 1700-1800 is called RK or RC,it is one piece. it is made for wrx only,It is different than the dealer rim sells for 3000, you can get that rim from all different stores, they all sell around 1800 with tire package,they are light weight, but not as strong as other.The news already came out 2 month ago at newyork auto show.
  • 1subydown1togo1subydown1togo Member Posts: 348
    Shan got it backwards..The rims Bill Kolb is selling are the RKs. The dealer optional wheels are the RX, which are forged
  • corkfishcorkfish Member Posts: 537
    As far as upgrading a WRX, better check with the dealership, I've talked to mechanics on this and they all seem to say that if you monkey with it, you fix it. Chips that give 17 lbs of boost? That's about what the STI is running and contrary to rumours going around suggesting that it's the same engine as the WRX, running that kind of pressure will damage the motor ( the STI engine is NOT just a WRX engine with a larger turbo strapped on!). I don't think dealers will be to sympathetic to people who bring their cars in with all kinds of aftermarket parts. Personally, I would'nt want to jeapordize my warranty.
  • kturner1kturner1 Member Posts: 33
    Help. I have a serious WRX problem. A few months ago I drove one. I fretted and fussed and ended up getting a Legacy L which I really like. The L has more room, the beauty of all wheel drive, was less money, will save me many tickets, scoots OK, handles like a dream etc. The problem is I "was in the neighborhood" of our dealer today and they have a blue WRX sedan in. I want it too. Really bad. I wouldn't trade the L, I would just get the WRX for fun. Please post something that will bring me to my senses.
  • gaspasser2gaspasser2 Member Posts: 44
    Work hard, love everyone, and treat yourself with something that you really want. You can really have it all if you want it bad enough. That's the best I can do. Good luck.
  • varigvarig Member Posts: 99
    2 questions:
    1. Has anyone had experience driving the WRX in snow/ice conditions. If so how did it handle. What tires did the car have (all season, snow, or sport)

    2. Saw a posting that had a link to the i-club thread of WRX owners complaining about engine problems, especially warning lights displaying not very long after purchase. Anyone had similar problems with engine?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My nice side: your L is a fantastic value, a well kept secret, and should be practical and affordable to run for years to come. It'll hold its value well and likely be reliable, plus the utility from its size is hard to beat. Even your mother-in-law would approve.

    My evil side: don't be a wimp, you can afford a giant-killer, so get a Rex!

    ;-)

    -juice
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    There was a bad batch of CEL sensors fairly early on. This has happened w/other Subaru models as well. It's a supplier issue.

    As far as aftermarket parts go, one has to be somewhat sensible. The parts themselves will not affect one's warranty unless the dealership can prove they were responsible for causing whatever broke that is normally covered under warranty. The burden of proof is on the dealership. So, to say the aftermarket parts will void one's warranty is not accurate.

    Stephen
    WRX wagon w/3625 miles and no problems
  • thecatthecat Member Posts: 535
    Varig,
    I can't address your question about snow/ice handling, I've only had mine since early April and the weather in the N.E. hasn't provided that experience yet. However, based upon my experiences with a Forester, I would expect the WRX to do quite well. Actually it has a Limited Slip Differential, which my Forester does not, so it should do even better. Tires are the determining factor in how well your Soob will do in the snow. The Geolanders on the Forester, like the R-92's on the WRX, are known to be an inferior "snow tire" but I've managed quite well.

    As far as the C.E.L. issue with the WRX .. it's much to do about nothing. Mine has been back to the dealer, computer pulled and sent back to SOA for reprograming and replaced. Took 2 days. The problem is that false errors are being reported and setting off the CEL. The car continued to run fine, didn't overheat, no flames anywhere, radiation levels remained constant :) SOA has the cure and is addressing the problem. (which really isn't much of a problem) You'll be having so much fun driving this thing, you would regret letting some minor glitch be a factor in your decission.
    - hutch
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I'd still suggest caution, especially with "chips" etc. If the vehicle has been "modified" that alone can void the emissions warranty. We seen vehicles that are having problems related to modifications and aftermarket accesssory installation and we can't pay for repairs.

    Caution is the key word.

    Patti
  • bruticusbruticus Member Posts: 229
    If the dealer takes a look and says "this here upgrade is responsible," that's proof enough for the warranty not to apply. Then you have to prove that the upgrades didn't hurt the car.

    It's the same thing in computers; if you buy a brand new PC that has a 1 year warranty, and 2 months later you put in a new video card and then the system starts acting weird, the PC's maker is going to say "this isn't our problem."

    DjB
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I agree, and that's why I always suggest you buy everything from one place, in a bundle. That way they can't pass the buck.

    Nice thing is, most mods are reversible. So you can remove them before visiting the dealer.

    Really good mods are so subtle even the dealer wouldn't notice.

    -juice
  • psywrx301psywrx301 Member Posts: 2
    Need advice. While I was driving I felt wiring connectors with my left foot under the dash. I got home to see what they were and I noticed that there were two green connectors disconnected. They look like they fit each other. Anyone know what these are for? Should I connect them? The car drives well and I just had the CEL problem resolved.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    Don't reconnect them. They are "transit connectors". Since the cars stop and start a few times during transit, these connectors make the car run very lean so that the plugs are not fouled. Just tuck them right back up there and fahgettaboutit!

    Hope this helps!

    Patti
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd get some tie straps just to secure them out of sight.

    -juice
  • robblazerobblaze Member Posts: 11
    I have 650 miles on the bad boy and I am about pulling out my hair waiting to step on throttle.
    The most important break in period is the first 500 miles. Are people keeping it under 3500 rpm and 75 mph for the first 1,000 miles. Let me know, if so I admire you restraint.

    Furthermore, I am getting a thin black film from on the rear of the car from the exhaust from time to time. Is this legit?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    On a sedan? Sounds odd.

    Try Rain X to keep the windows clean.

    -juice
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
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    Drew
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  • corkfishcorkfish Member Posts: 537
    So what? Who wants to the hassle of taking a dealership to court. Chances are the dealer can get a mechanic to come in and convince a judge that any damage you did to the car is attributable to the aftermarket parts. What are you going to do? hire your own expert witness?
  • kostamojen2kostamojen2 Member Posts: 284
    Im sure if you got a dealer to court, SEMA would be willing to assist if you had a good case ;)
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    I've been on both sides of the fence - enthusiast owner who likes to maintain and mod my cars, and technician who has to fix other people's mistakes. The aftermarket is a great thing, but there are lots of folks out there who love to second-guess the factory and bolt on the "flavor-of-the-month" mod looking for a few more HP. Many of these people shouldn't even be under the hood in the first place. I understand and agree with the argument that says a mod unrelated to a defective part or system should not void the warranty on that defective item, but drawing the line can be tough - especially when people screw up their cars, then remove the mod and bring the car in for service with innocence written all over their faces. IMHO, it all comes down to that old "personal responsibility" thing - don't expect the manufacturer to pay for your mistakes, but do hold them to the terms outlined in the warranty. Best bet - leave your car alone until the warranty expires, then have at it!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If one dealer won't honor the warranty, you could pull off the mod, reinstall the OE parts, and go to another dealer.

    But I'd just try to find a mod-friendly dealer. There are some out there.

    -juice
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    We had a (joke) sign in our shop that read:

    SHOP RATES:
    $65.00/hr
    $75.00/hr - if you watch
    $85.00/hr - if you help
    $95.00/hr - if you tried to fix it first

    Maybe today it would add:
    $105.00/hr - if we have to spend half a day running down false diagnostic codes because of your mod

    :)
  • tonymitztonymitz Member Posts: 7
    Stephen,

    So is that waxed or unwaxed, regular or mint flavored floss? Just kiddin', you're right, the process to take off the badges does sound really easy. I haven't done it yet but plan to do it tomorrow when I have a chance to wash my car. It has been hard keeping the car under 4 rpms. I keep looking at the odometer everyday to see where it is. Unfortunately it's moving slowly since it's been mostly commuting traffic but I only have about 300 more miles to go. I hope I can make it. ;) As for my "relationship", it's going great. I especially love the stares I get from people. I never got those in my other car. I even had one guy who had passed me turn around in his seat, nod enthusiastically, and give me a big thumbs up. I love it!

    Tony
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
  • togartogar Member Posts: 2
    Any WRXers notice that the A/C gets cold, then warm, then cold & warm again - at very regular intervals. My dealer (Flemington, NJ) said that Subaru uses a cyclical clutch to enagage the air conditioning compressor, which may account for this constant variation.

    Has anyone else noticed this? This is my first Subaru, so still getting used to it.

    Thx!
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    Actually, I used mint-flavored, waxed I believe. :-)

    Yeah, I know what you mean about taking "forever" to get past the 1000 mile mark. I also know what you mean about the recognition factor. I'm constantly amazed about who knows about the WRX and stops to talk or get my attention while driving. It's not always the ones I think would know, pretty funny.

    I'm at 3650 miles. I took some long driving trips last weekend. I actually had the WRX to 100mph but thought I was only doing about 85mph until I looked down. The car's stability at higher speeds is nothing short of awesome. Anyhow, I scheduled my 1st oil change at the dealer (I have free oil changes for life of car). Unfortunately, they can't get me in until 7/2. Oh well, at least the oil still looks pretty clean.

    Stephen
  • clarencourtclarencourt Member Posts: 3
    have same problem, Its pretty bothersome. have'nt been to dealer yet, but seems to me cutout would be due to some kind of regulator/thermostat on compressor, not the type of clutch it has...?

    would like reponses from anyone who knows solution
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    image
  • onebrt464onebrt464 Member Posts: 6
    Are the any sites that post automatic transmission performance times?
  • onebrt464onebrt464 Member Posts: 6
    $6000 over retail? Are people really falling for this?
  • onebrt464onebrt464 Member Posts: 6
    What is the breakdown of transmissions manufactured?
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Don't quote me on it but I think it's 80-20 in favor of the manuals.

    -Frank P.
  • blackcurrantblackcurrant Member Posts: 152
    and, it really doesn't FEEL all that fast. My seat-of-the-pants impression is it's not much faster than my STOCK 95 eclipse GSX, if any faster. Of course, my butt might need calibration, but, i was seriously disappointed.

    My GSX 'roll-on' power in 5th gear on the hiway is WAY, WAY quicker. The WRX has a SERIOUS turbo lag.

    Flame - on!
  • bruticusbruticus Member Posts: 229
    All vehicles use a clutch on the AC compressor to switch the AC on and off. The AC gets switched off when engine temp climbs beyond a certain point.

    Remember how AC works: air from inside the cabin is run past a radiator filled with a cold liquid. The air cools, while the liquid warms and becomes a gas. The air is fanned back inside the car, while the gas goes through the compressor to be compressed back into liquid and chilled again. When it's chilled, the heat it gives off is transferred to a radiator (either a separate radiator mounted near the main engine radiator, or into the main radiator itself). This heat raises the engine operating temp; at some point engine temp will be too high, and the AC will be switched off so the temp can drop a little. I suspect the WRX's engine runs hotter under regular, non-AC loads, than non-turbo 4cyl engines, and the extra heat load from the AC will push the temp beyond nominal range a little faster.

    There's no "solution" per se, as nothing's broken. It's just that the AC pushes engine temp up, and it seems to push it up faster in the WRX. But some modder will probably come up with a kit to increase engine cooling, maybe a bigger or more efficient radiator, and everybody will install it, and then if they ever have a mechanical problem they'll find that they've voided the warranty (messing with the engine cooling system will certainly void the warranty, and it's kind of hard to hide the fact that you have a non-stock radiator and a hassle to put the stock stuff back in before EVERY trip to the dealer)

    As an aside, it's a very bad idea to run the AC at full blast while you're stuck in motionless traffice on a hot summer's day. It pushes the chances of an overheat really high. This is why, if you run the AC in this sort of situation and pay attention to your car, you can hear the AC cycle on/off at faster and faster intervals because the engine temp is getting closer and closer to overheat. Each time the AC is shut off the engine cools a little bit, enough to allow the AC to switch on again, but when the AC does come back on it pushes the temp up just a little faster.

    (side note on engine cooling) My dad used to have a '71 Roadrunner GTX with the 440 sixpack (not a Hemi, sadly) to which he'd added many tweaks. One side effect of his work was the engine ran hotter than it did while stock and the cooling system couldn't keep up. The first year he had the car he drove it in the local mid-summer car parade (dozens of classic muscle cars running several laps of the center of town at 5 mph) and after the first lap or so he and several other drivers had to pull out of the parade and head back to their display spots. On this hot day, driving around and around at 5 mph, all their OVERHEAT lights started shining. They weren't driving fast enough for airflow through the engine bay to help the radiator cool the engine.

    DjB
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    blackcurrant- "My seat-of-the-pants impression is it's not much faster than my STOCK 95 eclipse GSX"

    So why exactly did you think the WRX would be significantly faster? The GSX's 14.9 lb per hp (210 hp, 3120 lbs) isn't far off the WRX's 13.6 ratio (227 hp, 3085 lbs).

    "it really doesn't FEEL all that fast"

    Again, you're comparing it to the GSX which is a fast sport coupe in its own right.

    "My GSX 'roll-on' power in 5th gear on the hiway is WAY, WAY quicker. The WRX has a SERIOUS turbo lag"

    Did you consider that the WRX's 5th gear might just be geared taller to provide for better mpg and a quiter ride? In which case the turbo lag would be more noticeable since the WRX would be running at a lower rpm.

    I think that the real difference between the two is in the handling dept, with the WRX's being significantly better.

    -Frank P.

    FYI: I use to own a Talon TSi Turbo AWD (cousin of the GSX)
  • bruticusbruticus Member Posts: 229
    I'm glad I've never had a turbo car before, so I won't have previous experience to make me think differently of the WRX.

    I've heard some people say the turbo lag is negligible, while others say it's horrible. Since I don't know what good and bad turbo lags are like, the WRX will feel just fine.

    Also, the WRX's 4 and 5 gears are both overdrivers. 4th is, if memory serves, .96, while 5th is .73. i-club.com has a breakdown somewhere. So, yeah, if you're driving along at 60 mph in 5th gear, with the engine turning 2500 rpms, and you stomp the gas w/o downshifting, that .73 ratio is going to make it that much harder to get to the turbo-on point.

    DjB
  • blackcurrantblackcurrant Member Posts: 152
    OK, for this new car to have such a noticeable difference is disappointing to me. I was seriously interested in this car, but, it just isn't for me. If i have to drop down 2 gears to get the same response as my GSX i should have kept my 97 GSR sedan.
  • corkfishcorkfish Member Posts: 537
    I was disappointed with the "feel" of the car as well. I test drove it expecting neck snapping, Mustang type acceleration and although 1st and 2nd gears were definitely quick, I found highway acceleration to be less than impressive. This car definitely needs a six speed transmission and more low end grunt to be perfect.
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