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2011 Ford Taurus

Just bought the 2011 Taurus Lim AWD with 303a pack,multi contour seats,adaptive cruise,and nav.Was a toss-up with the SHO but price and insur. cost played a factor. The 3.5 L engine has plenty of power for normal day use and uses regular gas. The SHO same motor but twin turbo jets out like a bullet and recommends prem.gas.. Both cars had same options inside except suade middle seat in sho lim leather,dash cosmetics diff color 20inch wheels to 19 inch on lim and steering slight diff in feel. I love the car but the choice was based on money cost and no need to speed but take both out for a ride and decide yourself.
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Comments

  • steevosteevo Posts: 333
    Did you drive a Maxima or even a G37X ? I also like the Taurus Limited, mostly for size and looks, but am not liking the price point. Also I have not driven the Taurus yet, but have been inside one. I like the interior. Is it slow?? SHO is not an option too expensive.
    Reason I ask, is so many people and magazines told me what a great car the Fusion is, but when I drove one it did not compare well to my 2008 Altima 3.5 SE. My Altima is much tighter and feels much faster. I am sure it is faster, for what that is worth.
    I am considering Maxima and Taurus... Maxima seems to lease WAY better.
    Also, Ford seems to be pricing there cars way into the stratosphere. I read here or somewhere else a comparison of the Taurus and a V6 Honda Accord. The Taurus is nicer looking car and has the bigger trunk but lost the comparison due to price and performance (slightly). The people in the forum kept saying the comparison was not fair because the Taurus had WAY more features so was priced higher. Many of those features are not available in the Honda. BUT ... They missed a big point. The Honda had NAVIGATION and was still cheaper. In order to get NAV in the Ford you had to get the option list up there making the car 5 or 6 thousand dollars more expensive in the MSRP. The Honda sticker was like 31000 with Nav. You can get a Taurus sticker down to 31000 but it will not have NAV. Not even close. So the comparison IS apples to apples because face it, you either get Nav or you don't. Without the Nav unit the other stuff is just marketing bs.
  • bruneau1bruneau1 Posts: 468
    We bought the SEL awd with leather and Sync for 28,500. We don't need or use navigation and most people don't either. How did people ever find their way in the past without navigation or communicate without cell phones about the most inane things.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    One thing many people fail to evaluate is the safety quotient of a given vehicle. According to informedforlife.org, the Taurus is the safest car on the road save for the BMW 5 series which edges it by a mere sliver.

    As one who has had the misfortune of being in several major accidents, all in safe cars, the safety quotient of the new Taurus is not to be underestimated. After all, what good is a car if it does not keep you safe?
  • I've had my Bordeaux red Taurus SEL fleet car for three months, 12,000 miles. It doesn't sit around much! LOVE the ride and nearly everything about the car. Car info display shows 27 - 28 mpg consistently, which gives a 500+ mile range. Trunk is enormous, must have been designed by a mafia hit man. I can fit my golf bag in there sideways with room to spare.

    Only gripes are very minor: 1) console is a bit wide, restricting leg room. I had been driving an SUV, so it took a little getting used to. 2) It has automatic headlights that come on at dusk, but there's no dashboard indicator to tell you whether they are on or not. Sometimes if it's raining, I turn them from 'auto' to 'on' to make sure they are on. 3) rear visibility somewhere between limited and "what's behind me doesn't matter anyway". Rear parking sensors are a big help, mine doesn't have the rear camera, would highly recommend it. On the same note, you have to be a contortionist to clean the inside of the rear window.

    At the rate I'm putting miles on this car, I'll blow through the warranty before the end of the year.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    No DRLs..?
  • Mine doesn't. The owners manual has a paragraph on DRL's (if equipped).

    The auto headlight feature does turn on the headlights if the windshield wipers are turned on.
  • I dont' really have a strong opinion either way on DRL's, I just want some dash indicator that shows when the automatic lights are on.
  • shakes67shakes67 Posts: 9
    Took control of my new car Nov.1, 2010 and presently have 4700 miles on it. With combo hwy/cty drive my average is 20 miles and main. was one oil change at 3800 with motorcraft 5/20 durablend and fl500 filter. So far, the taurus rides steady nice accel to 60 60 up it goes. Turns are nice for a big sedan and breaking has been good. My only problem with the car is only the stereo. I have the Nav unit with the sony premium 12 speakers. I most of my cars I was spoiled with polk speakers hooked to a JVC or Pioneer units. The unit itself needs a firmware update..jazz up the screen/menu and an equilizer program needs to be installed so to customize the sound for the listener. Overall, the car is what I expected and love it.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Shoulda bought a portable GPS and the you'd be free to do whatever with the audio.
  • esfoadesfoad Posts: 210
    But on my car with rain sensing wipers the headlights only turn on if the rain sensing system turns the wipers on fulltime, but not when they are in intermittent mode. Could be a problem here in NJ where it;'s a law to have your headlights on if it's raining.
  • Love the car. Picked it up in June of 10 and have 5500 miles on it. The car is quick, quiet, roomy and handles great. Love all the features too. My passenger loves the heated rear seats, my front seat passenger loves all the adjustments and I love driving it. Little pricy but that's what it is. The front brakes were making a funny noise so I brought it back to the dealer and Ford had a fix involving new rotors. Car runs great on regular. My last trip I got 27 mpg hwy with 4 people and all their luggage.
  • jimmyl4jimmyl4 Posts: 3
    We purchase our Taurus in November 2010 and have approx. 6500 Mi on the car. We love the car and its safety features and it gives us a great ride and gas mileage. I seem to have an intermittent problem with the transmission that happens probably once a month. We come up to a stop sign or light and come to a complete stop. When we press the accelerator to start moving again the transmission for a second seems to not know what gear to start in. We feel a sudden delay or stumble (can't think of a better term) for not over a half second before the transmission shifts into first gear and we start moving again. I did mention this to a service technician at the Ford garage recently and he suggested I bring the car in maybe for a reprogram of the controlling computer. This whole car is run by computers now so maybe there would be some error code that has recorded this problem.

    I would appreciate any comments or suggestions related to my problem. Thanks
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    My strongest instinct is to say, do what the tech suggested. You surely are under warranty. are you not?

    By the way, I have concluded there may not be a 2012 Taurus, but a 2013 will appear in the spring. Is this correct?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    You're encountering automatic "hill-hold", hill-start.

    Newer TC's (torque converter's) are not robust enough to easily hold the car in place on an incline.
  • almattialmatti Posts: 164
    Priggly, what sources did you use to determine the comparative safety of the Taurus , BMW, and all other cars? Many car makers claim otherwise: for instance, 2010-11 Subaru Legacy (I have one), has a 5 Star Rating in all categories 2 years running for it's class of sedan - mid sized. In fact, Edmunds will show the safety / crash ratings on this site and Consumers Reports as well.
  • almattialmatti Posts: 164
    Anaasociate of mine has an MKS 2010, 6 speed auto tranny, says he has some Lagging / Hesitation issues too. Too many gears. I have a 2010 G37X, 7 speed auto tranny, That's worse...Too Many gears for the TC to handle with speed for the right gear and downshifting is delayed (hence the Lagging), because you enter the top gear too soon. With the Infiniti, at 35 mph, she will be at 1400-1500 rpms, probably 7th gear, (if I shift to Manual mode - it reveals which gear I'm in), and I feel the lumbering of the gear box. These theings are affected by many, many, variables at the time you are driving according to the Infiniti Service Manager: outside Temps, barometric pressures (!!), road incline, etc., etc.,,, Yes totally computer controlled throttles, Transmission with Control Modules (that's why they are referred to as TCMs), and of copurse, ECUs (Electronic Control Units [the mainframe & brains of the car]. The lagging/hesitation in my G37X (which my old 07 G35X did NOT have - 5 speed tranny), atimes in stop n go traffic on some days is horrendous, other days it will vary. Man, I miss my 07 G35X - should have bought that car at lease end....Too late now. Newer is Not Always Better... BTW, this was donme to increase the mileage of the Fleet by many Manufacturers - 7ATs, 8ATs, and the 6ATs, by using top gears quickly helps to increase the mileage ratings of the cars.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...by using top geras quickly..."

    Not so much as having enough gear ratios available to most closely, more closely, simulate an actual CVT. Be in the right, most optimal gear ratio for current, all around road conditions. Makes for a whole lot of "shiftiness".
  • I HAD MANY V8 CARS AND THIS IS SO BAD ON GAS WHY??
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    edited July 2011
    If it is a V8 it is not a 2011 Taurus or any Taurus for that matter. Is it an older Crown Vic, maybe an old police car? If so that may explain the poor mileage.
    The 2010 Crown Vic is rated 16 city, 24 highway mpg.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    Jimmy, I realize your post is over a month old so maybe you have gotten this resolved. However, if I am reading the description of your problem correctly, it is NOT normal.

    Ford issued a Service Bulletin for 2010 and 2011 Ford products with the transmission like yours - TSB 10-21-2. It involves replacing the TRS - transmission range sensor. I had the problem with my MKS. It was very intermittent. Basically, it would attempt to be in the wrong gear at the wrong time. It would even slip into neutral while crusing. Occasionally, it would attempt to take off in a higher gear and then drop back to low, causing the sensation that you describe. Replacement of the TRS per the TSB solved the problem.

    If you are still having a concern, have your dealer check this out.
  • jimmyl4jimmyl4 Posts: 3
    Interestingly, we have not experienced this problem again since I posted in June 2011. Orginally it occurred every other week for a while from a standing start and with time the incidents have completely stopped. I told my wife that I think we were really a little too light footed on the accelerator from a standing start when we first took deliverly of the car in Nov. 2010. We just had the car serviced @ 8500 mi. at the dealership with no problems other than I got a 4-wheel alignment under warranty just to check and sure enough the toe was out on one side. My experience with new cars is that after the suspension has time to settle/adjust to road use miles, you had better check the alignment.

    Bruce, thanks so much for the service tip and I will keep that in mind in case the problem occurs again. So far, we love this 2011 Taurus.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    Glad to hear all is well. I may have over-reacted to your post since it sounded somewhat familiar. Still, I suggest you keep an eye on it. Here is the verbiage from Ford's bulletin:

    ISSUE
    Some 2009-2011 Edge, MKX, Taurus, Flex, MKS
    and 2010-2011 MKT vehicles built
    3/13/2009-6/30/2010 and equipped with a 6F50 or
    6F55 transmissions may intermittently exhibit
    slipping/neutral out, 5th gear start from stop,
    electronic PRNDL error, backup camera on in Drive
    or speed control dropping out intermittently, this
    may be due to high resistance in the transmission
    range (TR) sensor.

    The complete TSB can be found by googling "6f50 TSB." Your original description of the stumble reminded me of what mine did - starting out in 5th and then immediately going back to low. It was very intermittent - maybe 3 times in 2 months. If it hadn't been for the bulletin, my dealer would never have found the problem.
  • I have a 2011 Taurus Limited. My A/C seems to cycle on and off every 10 to 20 seconds
    as I'm driving even though the cabin temp has not reached my the set temp. I can feel the
    difference in the air as it comes out of the vents. I took it to the dealer. They said the coolant
    pressure was ok...the cycling times was ok. I was told that the compressor is suppose to cycle
    often to save on gas milage. I would think this would eventually cause the compressor to fail early.
    Any ideas???
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited September 2011
    The A/C system has a pressure sensor that will disable the compressor when the high side pressure reaches ~375PSI. Restarts it at ~250PSI as the liquid refrigerant is used via cooling the evaporator.

    "I can feel the difference...."

    Unless the system lacks a (big enough??) dryer/reservior that shouldn't be.

    The other reason for the compressor cycling might be the engine coolant "approaching" too high a temperature.
  • I've had my Taurus for about a year with 10k miles on it. Great car, but I think my driver bucket seat is starting to list to the right and back. Nothing out of the ordinary from a driving perspective. Mix of highway/city driving with drivers between 150-200 lbs.

    Anyone having similar issues, seeing reported problems on this? I'd appreciate context or links as well if applicable.
  • Thanks wwest. My friend has a 2011 Fusion so I took his car out to see if his
    A/C cycled like mine. It in fact did. So I guess it is normal for the unit to cycle
    often. I still don't like the way i can feel the "difference" of the refrigerated air
    (compressor running) and the off cycle. This may be the reason I had problems with condensation on my windshield. It was a rainy day and the condensation was on the bottom of my windshield. I ran the "front windshield defroster" but it took quite a while to clear the bottom of the condensation. I would think that if the compressor cycled often that the air wouldn't be dry enough to dry the water. This is getting complicated . But thanks again for the info on the A/C in the car.
  • beerme1beerme1 Posts: 66
    Im a Ford guy and am considering a 2011 demo SHO and when I see this complaint about the seat I cry. This has been a problem on every single Ford I think I have owned in my lifetime except the current 2010 Fusion and thats probably because it's a Mazda lol.
    God I cant believe Ford is still making seats that tend to fall down and in from a driver perspective. Wow this alone makes me want to reconsider this purchase. I know the drill with the listing back and to the right all to well with Ford. I'm really surprised more people dont complain about it actually.
    It makes you feel off center so to speak and you're only talking about 150-200 lbs. makes it even worse.
    From a Ford Fan, c'mon Ford.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Windshield condensation is an entirely different issue, problem.

    Ford has now adopted the seriously flawed NipponDenso, Denso US, automatic climate control design. To most quickly remove condensation from your windshield interior surface you will now be required to turn up the temperature setpoint, radically so, and then switch to defrost/defog/demist mode.

    The Denso design, once the cabin temperature has reached your temperature setpoint, or closely nearby, will rely EXCLUSIVELY on the A/C's dehumidification capability for defogging the windshield. The A/C's functionality for this purpose is a complete and total WILD CARD, it may or may not work, depending on local climatic conditions. If the OAT is below ~35F the dehumidification capability of the A/C will be non-existent so the compressor is disabled.

    To the end of correcting some of these flaws Toyota has added a few C-BEST options that the owner can select. One of these allows the A/C compressor to be disabled indefinitely, even in defog mode, simply by switching it off one time. Prior to that option I always disconnected my compressor clutch wiring throughout the non-cooling need period.

    The second option prevents the system from automatically switching into cooling mode, dash outlet flow vs footwell. The importance of this is that in footwell (heating) mode a small portion of "warm" airflow is routed to the interior of the windshield. Wherein in cooling mode the windshield is allowed to cool (to dewpoint?) as a function of roadspeed and the onrush of cool/COLD airflow.

    My Lexus does not have this second option so I must be especially diligent in watching for my system to switch to cooling mode in a cool climate and allways switch it back to footwell, heating mode.

    There is now a third C-best option available that addresses the A/C control issue when the compressor is automatically disabled with the OAT below ~35F but I don't now remember what it is/does.

    Your Ford may have these same options.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Go to Ebay and buy some Toyota, or even Lexus front seats for your Ford.
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