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Comments
Bob
I think the V6s are limited to 125 beause of the tires on them, I believe it's been discussed here in the past (does your V6 sport have V rated tires, does the sport V6 have 17 inch wheels? I've never seen one at the dealers here). I have a 00 V8 Sport, and I've been to 130 now. I was backing off at that speed, running out of road, but there was no sign of a limiter. Haven't had enough road to try for 140 yet. It was still pulling strongly and accelerating at that speed though. I don't frequently get the opportunity to open it up much to these speeds, however I hate the idea of a limiter no matter if I never get the opportunity to go that fast or not, on general principle.
I was truly amazed at how stable the car is at high speed, my 88 Stang at that speed was really nervous and wandered all over the road, which really kept your attention. The aerodynamics, suspension design, and especially the variable ratio/variable boost steering (which is an outstanding steering system) really show their worth at high speeds.
I think you said:
"If this weren't the case, then there wouldn't really be any difference between the non-SST and the SST transmission except for the gear selection lever arrangement."
That's the way I see it. I had the sport package ordered for the sole reason of getting the SST. Then I learned of the minimal differences, and did not care for the sport suspension & full-size spare, so I changed to the non-sport V8.
It's clear to me that the SST offers something of value to some drivers. Also, I think it's important to those considering a purchase to understand the differences.
Once upon a time, I had an 83 Mustang GT and topped it out at 140. I agree with swauger about the handling - mine had a ground effects package that sucked it down to the road real tight at >80 but the heavy front made lane changes or other manuevering pretty twitchy at high speed.
It is (on my 2000 V8 Sport - first re-flash only) at 142/143 mph.
Created a rather interesting effect - and output graph...
Cheers,
- Ray
Who has not had an opportunity to drive this fast in 'real life' since the 1970s
Though it does open up all sorts of interesting chip possibilites for removing any speed limiter, doesn't it?
Ray do you have a way of scanning that output graph and sending it to me? And, by the way, how did you happen across a chassis dynamometer?
Brian (dying to know the details)
Scott (open to correction on all of the above)
Thought up Project LS-GT the other day going to work. The goal is going to be a 20-30% increase in performance(horsepower/torque and handling) without sacrificing any of the intrinsic qualities of the car that we all love such as the weight distribution or the ride and handling characteristics. Additional fuel economy would be a added bonus, but I don't expect to see any increase and hopefully not a reduction either. There won't be any boy-racer components, so no wings, side exhausts or for that matter, really loud exhaust components. I will be utilizing vendors that can commit to the quality components that we expect for our cars, such as a stainless steel exhaust system.
I'm also not planning on lowering the car. I wasn't too thrilled with JR slightly tail-happy car at Mania(Sorry JR no insult intended!). Not to mention that, strictly from a personal standpoint, if I lowered the car I couldn't pull into my driveway.
Based on the responses from the vendors will determnine how long this project will take. I expect that it will probably extend over a year, in incremental stages. If anyone is interested in lending a hand or knows vendors that would be interested in getting into our market send them my way. My wife already thinks I'm crazy anyway!
Brian(who know is wondering what he REALLY is getting into!)
Also - Should a new car buyer be conserned with a "new" car that has 250 miles logged on it? Is there a legal limit to the milage on car for it to be considered new?
There are two cars on the lot, one is approximately $1,000 less than the other on the BASE PRICE (same car; V8). Anyone know why that might be?
For V8 LS, non sport, moon roof, Adv trac, Alpine Ste, heated seats, cell phone @ $31,000 is there any reason why I should hesitate?
Any comments appreciated. I need to act soon.
Come back & let us know how it turns out.
Scott
non-SST
D5: Car will start in 1st, and shift up through all gears, including 5th.
D4: Car will start in 1st, and shift up through 4th.
3: Car will start and stay in 3rd gear.
2: Car will start and stay in 2nd gear.
1: Car will start and stay in 1st gear.
Manual downshifts restricted to safe engine speeds. For example, if you manually
shift from D5 to 3, the shift will only take place after the car has slowed enough to
avoid exceeding redline in 3rd gear.
SST:
D5: Car will start in 1st, and shift up through all gears, including 5th.
D4: Car will start in 1st, and shift up through 4th.
Manual Mode:
o From stop, car automatically starts in 2nd gear.
o If you give more than 60% throttle, it will shift to 1st and stay there unless you stop or
manually 'bump+' to shift up to 2nd.
o You may 'bump+' to step up through the gears and 'bump-' to step down through the gears.
o If the transmission was forced to shift to 1st when starting up, you will be able to select 1st again manually, as long as you don't stop (essentially) first.
o As with the non-SST, downshifts are allowed only if speed won't cause engine to overrev.
o Transmission will stay in selected gear until you manually change it or slow to very slow
speed, in which case it will shift back to 2nd gear.
Summary:
Both the non-SST and SST transmissions provide almost the same degree of manual control, but use a different shift-lever control scheme.
The SST provides a somewhat more uniform way to invoke manual gear changes, since it doesn't use a different mechanism between D4 and D5 than it does for other transitions. It is a very natural mechanism for motorcyclists!
The non-SST allows a manual shift to 1st, which the SST does not, except for mashing the accelerator while in 2nd.
Final assessment? I don't think we can go very far wrong with either choice. The differences are mostly a matter of ergonomics, and I expect most of us could adjust happily to either transmission (as long as we keep it well trained ;-)
Sorry if I've beaten this one to death... I'll move on now; I promise... :-)
There has been a lot of correct and a few not so correct posts on SST vs. non-SST operation. Let me add my $0.02.
In a SST car the car will start in 1st gear when the shifter is in D4 or D5. It will start in second in SST.
A non-SST will start in 1st in D4 and D5 and shift on exactly the same schedule as the SST car in both of these modes.
The non-SST will start and operate only in first in the 1 postion, second in the 2 position, and third in the 3 position. The execptions to these three rules are if you shift into these postions at a speed that's too high. Then it will stay in a higher gear until the speed comes down. For example, if you move the shifter to 1 at 80 MPH (and I do this all the time!) you will get an immediate shift from 5 to 4, then as the speed comes down it will shift to 3, then 2, then finally 1 at the appropriate speeds.
Mark
Mark
I spoke with him Saturday (1/20/01) as I had to drop the car off for an airbag light problem. I asked him to write up the engagement issue again. Tim again told me no word on TSB. So he can't do the TSB now. Has official notification gone out to all dealers?
Brian
Mark
Hector
AdvanceTrac controls all four wheels whereas TractionControl only controls the rear wheels. AdvanceTrac checks the yaw and slip angles of all the wheels and applies braking force when it senses one of the four wheels is slipping. Traction Control only applies braking to the rear wheel that is slipping.
gschwartz-sorry for not doing better research on my SST term paper. Not a new problem for me. I'll have to take a C+ on this project. After the extensive discussion that has ensued since yesterday, the only thing I can add is that once under way at a decent speed, you can "lock" the SST in 4th or 5th. I believe the traction control is "full range", so this helps if you hit a slippery spot while accelerating at speed. It won't downshift. I got to test this today, since the NY tri-state area just got hit with another snow storm. This was preceded by a few hours of sleet and freezing rain. The traction control performed admirably under these conditions (as long as the road is flat) The remnants of the last big one from 3 weeks ago were finally fading and I was able to wash the car last week. Oh,well.
As if that wasn't bad enough, my driver's side seat heater failed today. I guess I'll be seeing the dealer this week. Just in time to get the revised element mentioned by Dick Cupka in #110.
Sorry to have missed the chat. Hope to see the transcript on LLSOC.
Brian, how do you raise the front of your car for oil changes? I can't get it up my ramps because the lower valence hits part way up. Do you use a floor jack? If so, where do you place the jack?
BTW- in an earlier post, I mentioned an LS with an add-on ground effects package at the dealer where my son works. I haven't seen it in "the flesh", but my son brought home some pictures. It is BUTT-UGLY! In fact, it's so hideous that even the dealer is making some changes. The grille insert looks like a chrome or stainless panel with holes punched in it. Very gaudy. They are replacing it with the stock grille and replacing the rear wing with something a little less overdone. The price is $2500 and also includes some interior trim pieces,i.e, brushed aluminum on the dash and window switch surrounds. We'll see how fast this moves off the lot. They have it right out in front.
Does anyone have any comments on adapting the AS cell phone hook-up to a on Ford phone (Nokia).
Thanks, Scott.
Does anyone have any comments on adapting the LS cell phone system hook-up to a non Ford phone (Nokia)?
Hector
For example, when I want to crowd the throttle in 5-th and not get a downshift, I get the head-rocking kickdown.
Avoiding this is the biggest plus I've heard for the SST.
First run was pretty crappy - I had only walked the course and never really pushed the LS. I left the AdvanceTrac on and it was not too bad. The AdvanceTrac kept me out of the cones on some turns. I came through with a 1:18 plus two cones and a DNF for missing a couple of gates. So much for the newby run!
Second time was with AdvanceTrac off and in at 1:12 - I didn't get a good feel for handling until it was almost over.
Last run 1:09 - Finally getting the hang of steering with the gas pedal (AdvanceTrac off) and how close I can get to a turn before nailing the brakes. I also managed to control shifting a bit better but plenty of room for improvement. I discovered the ability to manually shift to 1 after having downshifted off the start. Duh. I should pay more attention to this forum.
Most of the decent drivers/cars were running 1:00 - 1:05 on this course so I felt really good about my 1:09 with zero experience beforehand. I think another two or three runs and I would have been under 1:05 without too much effort. I only got a few digital photos prior to the event during tech inspection since my photographer (Dad) is gadget-challenged and didn't take any shots with MY camera. He's good with the film camera so hopefully I will have something to scan soon. The other challenge is some video - he actually did a decent job with the camcorder on runs one and two. This week I will try to get it into data format and post a link.
I put the microphone up on top of the A-pillar - steering wheel should work also. You can put the speaker up under the dash on either side - mine is on the hump behind the console but I plan to move it to the passenger side footwell. Only down side is that I have to hit the mute button to answer a call but it's not a big deal for me since I don't get that many calls.
Brian
ls1bmw2 - you mentioned in a post to look for a jacking point in front of the door hing and a slot, is this using the jack provided in the trunk in the slot? Since I am travelling the world and looking for LS's I do not have the chance to look under my car to see where this point and slot are that you reference.
Any thoughts on a rear jacking point?
The front jack gets placed on the "back" of that structural piece that is a couple of feet in, under the driver's floorboard.
This usually leaves the opposite front tire barely touching the floor. I then simply lift that corner of the car up a little and put a support under that side.
I'm switching to Mobil 1 at 15,000 miles... can't wait.
The bumper is scuffed up, but that's all that's visible. The tire whine has taken on a different pitch since then, however, so I'm concerned that something has been knocked out alignment. We'll know soon enough.
With regard to the TSB, I gave them the number, but they said that the mechanic has to enter a trouble description into the computer first, or something like that. I'm sure that theyll get it done, it's just that the sequence of events seems a bit skewed.
Regarding how to jack up the car, I use a regular floor jack at the factory jack points. What I did to help, though, is take a short length of 2x4 and put a slot down the middle of it using a table saw. (or a skill saw) Then you can use the wood as a "pad" on the jack, and cradle the "pinch weld" on the car in the slot of the wood.
Brian(who is just a tad jealous of cwz-world traveler!)
The audio unit (at least the alpine indash 6cd) which I researched has pins on one of its connectors which include a audio mute signal and an analog audio input which gets routed to the speakers when the mute signal is held low. This would allow connection of a non-ford handsfree kit.
Many of the "professional install" full duplex handsfree kits have a "music mute" signal and a audio line out differental output which could be used to connect to the audio system. My Ericsson HF7600 kit has the correct signals but I haven't had a chance to hook it up. You would need to make a cable with the correct connectors for the audio unit and the handsfree cpu.
If you make the connections above the audio system will mute when the phone goes off hook and the audio for the phone will come out the speakers. You will not have any of the other functionality of the Lincoln factory phone.
Very few (if any) phones can hook directly up to these signals directly, you would need a handsfree kit for your Startac. I don't know if it is possible to adapt the Lincoln factory car kit to match your phone. I doubt that would be easy.
http://www.bonforums.com/babyls.htm
Draw your own conclusions. Note that it doesn't say it will use the Jag X400 (Mondeo) platform but will use the dew98 platform (shared with the new mustang perhaps?).