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Chrysler 300M



  • For the fun of it I priced out the 'M exhaust components to see what it would cost to replace those 2 resonators, 2 catalytic converters, and the rest. I priced it out here , and figure it would run around 3K for everything plus labor. That's a lot of cash for an exhaust system. Hope the OEM stainless steel system lasts the better part of a decade. Have a co-worker who has an Intrepid, which is 9 years old if I remember correctly, and he still has the original exhaust and struts at 109K. Hopefully the 'M will prove as hardy.

    I also looked to see what the Oxygen sensors would cost. Each of the 5 runs about $60 for Bosch sensors. I remember that I bought a Bosch sensor, the only one the car needed, for my Buick a few years back for only about $25. These 'Ms have some expensive components.
  • I have read so much on this topic since purchasing my 300m special 2 weeks ago,that i now have absolutely no clear indication of the best solution.Chrysler engineer says only 18"or the computer can malfunction and you will void any warranties.,then why did the 2002 come with 17" as standard ? Some say 16" is the way to go,and others say 17".What is the answer for this ,what should be ,a straightforward endevour.
    I have the 18" pilots at the moment.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    bluesky999 said-"Each of the 5". ??? last time I check the LH had 4 O2 sensors.

    chryslerjihad1. - you can use 16 , 17 , or 18 . I have 16 on in the summer ( trep) and put 15 snows on in the winter. My Bro also has a special with the 18's and in winter runs 16 steel rims. No prob. Just make sure you use all 4 the same size.
  • Thanks ottowrkr
    I also read beespecials post where he did the same thing .Do you just switch off the tire pressure sensors ?
  • My last car was a '93 Concorde with 3.5l engine. The OEM exhaust system never gave me a problem while I had it. The mufflers were still quiet when I traded it last spring with 193,000 miles for a '99 300M. On the 300M, since my last post I have had to replace the transmission speed sensors ($240.00 at local dealer, in and out in one hour starting at 4:15PM!) and the driver's door woofer $70.00 at dealer, he had one in stock for the 11 speaker Infinity system!). I now have 52,000 miles on the car and still love it.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Thanks for the info on the jeep and the sirius units.
    LH vehicles do not have stick only have Auto, and
    Auto Stick transmissions is as close as you can get.
    The 300M club is working on Custom racing headers as I type.
    I have never paid for information at the club, but did save lots of cash though.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    I hate it when dealers do that. The sensors probably cost less then 30 dollars and only take 2min each to install. very simple to do with a 1" socket set.
    Next time a speaker goes out put some Infintiy Reference speakers there. Less money and sound much better as well as being able to handle the power better. I just redid my audio system.
  • Re/O2 sensors; yes, w/o checking my manual I'm sure you're right that there's 4 and not 5. That will save about $60.

    Quietflyer; that's great that your '99 M is holding up well. Mine is very nice now that the bugs are worked out (bad a/c, etc.) and I feel like it's built like a brick; I enjoy the ample acceleration and the nimble handling. Sometimes I drive conservatively and really get the great fuel mileage for such size and relative power. As for your '93 Intrepid, it seems then like DMC is doing the right thing w/the exhaust systems and we should be ok for quite a while w/that. I wouldn't trust one of the later models, though. It would be an easy decontent switch to switch to either non-stainless or to a cheaper grade of stainless. And at the prices for those parts that's no small change.

    Re/changing exhaust, it would actually probably be around 3K for the parts alone, all things considered by my estimate from the web site I mentioned previously. I shouldn't have said "labor included". My plan is to probably keep the car until it's about 8 years old, and sell it before the tranny and exhaust go; I may be wrong but I'm hoping its components hold up like Quiet's '93 Intrepid.

    One last thing; Quiet you might try like 300Mike says and do these easy jobs yourself. I think your dealer clearly ripped you off on the sensors. My local Dodge dealer sells me the input and output for about $24 each, you could have save $115 or so for a very quick job. You might consider buying a manual from Chrysler; it runs about $110 but in my mind it was worth it. These cars are not rocket science and its interesting to see how the things are put together and to occasionally take on a small job yourself. For example, even changing something like a lightbulb you can see how they recommend it. Just my 2 cents.
  • A little trivia, the 4 sensors the M uses would cost about $200. A 2002 Acura TL only needs 2 sensors, but total cost would be higher ($212). (from What's the advantage of 2 catalytic converters in the M vs 2 in the Acura?

    Regarding TL, the new '04 uses basically the same brakes as the old model. These were class-trailing brakes that were not rated highly by Car and Driver. The 300M had class leading braking performance, both in stopping power and in pedal feel. There are quite a few things I like about the 'M better than the TL, including hydroformed engine cradle for better stiffness and ride, better style and room, cheaper initial price w/rebates, etc. That said, of course Acura has some strengths of its own,the biggest being the dealer experience I would think.
  • Not totaly true. The 6 speed version coming out in November has a Brembo brake upgrade. Also dealer service sucks just like any other.

    "Regarding TL, the new '04 uses basically the same brakes as the old model. These were class-trailing brakes that were not rated highly by Car and Driver. The 300M had class leading braking performance, both in stopping power and in pedal feel. There are quite a few things I like about the 'M better than the TL, including hydroformed engine cradle for better stiffness and ride, better style and room, cheaper initial price w/rebates, etc. That said, of course Acura has some strengths of its own,the biggest being the dealer experience I would think"
  • I would think that would be hard & expensive. That's a good wish list! However reality sets in, & tells us the 300M was not meant for a performance sedan from the get go.(even if the hype was) The aftermarket views it as a big HW cruiser for old people, nothing more. Now it's killed so any aftermarket support will also. Most of the good 300M mods are home made jobs with instructions, & info passed along to others.
  • Does anyone have ideas on how long one should wait before changing parts that definitely have a limited shelf life as part of a preventative maintenance schedule? By that I mean changing them after a reasonable amount of time before they go bad. Don't know if others would be interested in this, but I'll throw it out there and see. I'll include my guesses, but I doubt if I'm accurate. If anyones interested please feel free to add additional parts to the list and your own ideas for maintenance. I think the part on the 'M are quite high quality and tend to last a long time based on what I gather on this board, or else they fail before 70K on a lemon like that of Pster.

    1) Alternator (5 years or 100K miles?)

    2) generator (5 years or 100K miles?)

    3) battery (5 years or 100K miles?) (mine will be 5 years in 4 months and the "green eye" is still bright green.

    4) fuel pump (6 years or 125K miles?)

    5) struts (7 years or 150K miles?)

    6) wheel hub bearings (6 years or 125K miles?)

    7) water pump (100K as part of change w/timing chain)

    8) spark plugs (I guess manufacurers recommendation of 100K is allright)

    9) shock absorbers (I have no idea w/these gas OEM shocks)

    10) O2 sensors (I have no idea; it depends on who you listen to. But I say they have significant corrosion after 7 years and should be replaced then if you want a fuel efficient and well tuned engine)
  • How is the Honda shopping going? I'm always interested to hear what a fellow enthusiast driver finds interesting in their shopping. Are you looking at the Acord in additon to the TL, and if so, the coupe? The old coupes were nice for big people in that they had a ton of leg room, more than the sedans. I hope Honda follows that trend as I appreciate the leg room and the Accord will always be one car on my shopping list whenever I buy.
  • I now have 116,000 miles on my M. It will be 5 yo in Dec. The only "preventative" work on your list of ten that I have done is a tune-up (new plugs) at 100,000 miles. Not that it was running rough, just did it because that seems like a loooonnnnggg time for plugs.

    I did give into fear on one job not on your list. I had the serpentine belt replaced at 113,000 (if I remember correctly, the manual says 90,000). I'm starting to think about the battery and hoses next, since I've now handed my M down to my 16 yo daughter (lucky her). My employer finally gave in to my badgering to get me a company car. They said go pick out a Dodge Intrepid! I couldn't believe it. So, I got a loaded ES. Just picked it up yesterday. It's amazing how similar it is to the M. Looks like I got one of the last of the LH's and happy for it.
  • Indy, that's a happy ending to your life with the 'M. I can't believe you got 113K out of the same serpentine belt; I think that's a world record. Realize that the recommendation for the timing chain is about 100 or 105K, which is a substantial job, so you might want to consider that too. Tranny fluid change is recommended at 70K and not that expensive so think about that too as it might make it last longer. Enjoy the new Intrepid. They are my favorite domestic sedan, under 30K, other than the 'M.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    chryslerjihad1 - yopu cant turn the tire pressure console off. Te system will always look for the signal from the wheels . So you can ignore the overhead or put sensors in your new rims.

    bluesky999 - just to let you know ,my 94 LH still has the original alt, starter , fuel pump,wheel bearings and O2 sensors .Now I have changed one battery , one water pump ,6 spark plugs and will have to change my rear stuts soon. The left rear one is leaking . Not bad for a 10 model year old car EH.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    Well, it's been a week now since I've had it in. I have to say I'm considering putting the stock unit back in. I could almost swear that I've lost power! I've hit her a few times recently and it seems like she just bogs and makes a lot of intake noise.

    I admit, I still haven't unplugged the battery to reset the computer. I don't feel like having to reset all my presets and I was hoping the computer would just adapt.

    Anybody out there with aftermarket intakes have similar experiences or any advice to offer up? If the general concensus is to "reset" the computer, I guess that's what I'll do, but I'll wait to see what the rest of you have to say first.

    I noticed that the small rubber breather tube that connects to the side of the intake is squished a little (not completely constricted) at the bend, but I imagine that has very little to do with it. What do you guys think?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Jeff- what did the guys think of the signs?
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