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Chrysler 300M



  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    Yeah, it's pretty safe to say that it didn't come from the factory with stripped bolts.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    This was a problem for some of the earlier cars as I recall. I have not had the problem, knock on wood, with my 99M which is almost 8 years old now and I wash my wheels twice a week year round. I do remember a few guys reporting that the prongs inside got corroded and the cap fell off, and yes it was not cheap to replace them. When the problem wasw first brought up on the net I started spraying the prongs with WD-40 when I had the wheels off, figuring the oil would keep the water that infiltrates during rain or washing from having a chance to sit and corrode them. Perhaps a salvage yard or ebay/google is a way to go. :shades:
  • uniguyuniguy Posts: 39
    What exactly do you consider a "mint"? The day after you posted your message I noticed the chrome piece on one of my center caps fell off -- the prong is still in the wheel. I called the Chrysler dealership and they quoted me $23 for a replacement. They even had it in stock. I really don't think that's bad. I was expecting worse. (And the cheap plastic replacements sell for more than that on eBay).

  • 300mguy300mguy Posts: 9
    I have a 1999 Chrysler 300m. Only about 23K miles, but I had the same problems with the speakers.
    I just reglued the door speakers last night. $3.19 for the bottle of Goop. Dang Beastie Boys anyways.

    I had a problem with the passenger door window switch, not making good contact. The guy at the dealer just played with the switch and it has worked ever since.
    I had a problem with the fog-lights engaging/disengaging. It is sporadic. I just do what the guy did and jiggle the switch. It then goes away. That's probably what you need to do. Be hard, but not too hard.

    I am thinking about how to fix the opaque headlights.
    The opaqueness seems to be from inside. I'll either see if they sell the clear platic cover or just forgo it.

    I have window rollup/down problem.
    I know what the problem is, but I don't know exactly how to fix it. The rolling of the window uses a scissor action. That scissor action forces the gear to rub up against 2 plastic pieces, causing the motor to stop. My temporary solution was to use grease, so the gear slides against the plastic. I think the real solution would be to rebend the metal, or use something to keep the metal scissor straight and not allow it to push the gear.
  • magnum3magnum3 Posts: 1
    I am on my third set of center caps on my 2000 300m. I called Chrysler to complain but they have no record of any problems of this type. But they did have suggestions that your dealership would be able to tell you how to prolong the life of them. Funny if they had no record of problems, that they have solutions to the problem. I also had new tires(chrome wheels) on my 2001 sebring replaced, and the two places I checked into had nothing good to say of Chrysler chrome wheels. One of my wheels was falling apart, Chrysler had no record of ant of these problems either. I also own a 2005 magnum, now I have my fingers crossed on the wheel problems I might face in the future with those.
  • lapasadalapasada Posts: 26
    I drive a 99M with 49,000 miles on the odometer. For the past several months I have been experiencing intermittent door lock problems. When I activate my remote, all doors will lock or unlock except the driver's door. Has anybody experienced this problem and what was the solution?
  • charlesf4charlesf4 Posts: 20
    Does Chrysler put a build sheet some where in the car?
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Posts: 1,116
    You have a defective door lock actuator. If you're mechanically inclined you can replace it yourself. Here is a link to the solution. door lock repair
  • lapasadalapasada Posts: 26
    I haven't been able to get my rear windows down for the past two years. Since 99.9% of my driving on my 300M is solo, I haven't bother having the motors replaced. Can anybody share the cost of repairing/replacing the motors or whatever it takes to get these windows to operate.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Make sure the windows are not stuck to the rubber at the top of the windows. Use a plastic knife to make sure the glass is not sticking to the rubber be careful not to damage the rubber. If that does not work, some people have removed the inside door panels and sprayed the commutators of the motors with tv tuner cleaner and they started working again. The motors are made in Japan by Denso for what that is worth.
  • 300mguy300mguy Posts: 9
    I had a problem with the passenger side window of mine not rolling down. I took it to the dealer and they fiddled with the switch. (He used force to press the switch down and back and forth. Not to the point of breaking, but not dainty if you know what I mean.) The window has been working fine ever since.

    I don't really know if your motor is bad or not. I wouldn't expect it to be, since you don't really use it all that much. You probably want to make sure it is not the switch before investing in a whole new motor.

  • luisimprluisimpr Posts: 5
    I am actually troubleshooting that problem today. I already had all my window regulators changed in the past. For about week my rear right window does not go down. I took off the panel and one wire gets the full 12 volts to go up but the wire to go down does not. I used jumpers to reverse the voltage and the window goes down, so the regulator is fine and it is not binding. I suspect the drivers master switch. I took it out and checked the continuity while moving the switches. They are all fine. I have the switch out still so I will keep troubleshooting. I will let you know how it went.
  • luisimprluisimpr Posts: 5
    I checked the master window switch and everything was fine. I looked at the wiring diagram and went back to the problem door. It was the switch on the door that was bad.
  • bertoskibertoski Posts: 3
    Did you get your door latch fixed? I have the same problem with my 2000M driver door. I've replaced the latch assy in Nov.05, but few weeks later the "buzzing" noize reapeared. Went to the dealer to change the oil last week and asked about this noise. Also told them I've replaced it in Nov. They told me it has to be the latch assy. I think that there is something else!!!! :mad:
  • 300mguy300mguy Posts: 9
    Glad to hear you got it fixed!

    I have no idea why a switch goes bad, other than arcing, which can cause a bad contact, but that takes quite a while for that to happen.

    My switch was relatively new and for some reason, it just was not making contact, that is, until a tech at the dealer jiggled it a bit.

    I would be curious to know why your switch went bad, I suspect the switch was just not making contact, like mine was. Darn switches anyways.
  • lapasadalapasada Posts: 26
    I drive a 99M with 49,500 miles on the odometer. In the past six months I have replaced the battery twice. First time was told I had a shot circuit in the dash that was causing the drain on my battery and the battery needed replacing. After speding $900.00 to correct this problem, my battery went dead again this past Thursday morning. The same mechanic advised me that my BCM was bad and needed replacing. While they had the car I had them replace the actuator on the driver's door and the switches on the rear windows. Total bill $1400.00. Saturday morning car wouldn't start. Battery dead. Question - would the BCM have anything to do with draining this battery down and where on a 99M is the BCM located?
  • almeidaalmeida Posts: 2
    I lost my owner's manual one of the remotes. I bought an used remote from a wrecker and I would like to know if anyone has the instructions to reprogram the remote control for the keyless entry.

    Also I want to know if there is anyway that I can download another Owner's Manual for a 1999 Chrysler 300M


  • 300mguy300mguy Posts: 9

    There is a whole section devoted to the BCM under "Electrical & Electronic Systems" heading.

    The Body Control Module (BCM) has been upgraded to support the J1850 vehicle communications and diagnostics bus. It mounts directly on the junction block located in the lower, left cowl side. It is available in two feature levels base and premium. Only LHS uses the premium controller.

    It includes a Battery Saver feature that automatically turns off electrical loads if this is not done by the driver after a reasonable time.

    So, from that statement, even if something was draining the battery, the BCM should have shut it off, preventing the battery from draining completely. I would think the problem was the BCM all along. A short circuit would blow a fuse and not drain the battery.

    Get 2 or 3 estimates about what the problem might be, preferably from a dealer.

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