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Chrysler 300M

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  • Yeah, rickgonz, I agree. I would like to see activity move to another format like ezboard or ultimate bulletin board (ubb). I've suggested both of these formats as possible Club Chats or open public chats. Our Dodge Intrepid counterparts have a pretty active site at this address. Some of them talk on Edmunds, but very rarely.


    http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi


    I think townhall is ok, but there's no (poor) search or organization. I think most of us come here for each other and we put up with the simple format here. Edmunds is supposed to add features, but I don't know if they will ever materialize.


    Anyone know when things will get better, or do you also agree with Rickgonz?

  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    im not suing DC. listen to me. cars lose value once they're wrecked. i think it is a resonable request that they pay me the dollar amound i have lost due to it. now, when i go to trade it in, im only gonna get so much money for my M. is it unreasonable to ask to be reimbursed for what i've lost??

    why the heck would i sue chrysler?

    but since my posts are so fustrating, ill stop. just for you. (although i shouldnt be so worried about what someone who never posts on here has to say)
  • As a litigation lawyer who's been practicing for twenty years, I don't see the point in filing a lawsuit over such a minor incident. Having been involved in accidents before, if the total repair estimate is $4,000, it was a pretty damned minor collision. Feeling a little sore? Take some ibuprofen. Problems with your spouse? See a marriage counselor--if getting run into has jeopardized your marriage, it was in trouble before.

    Lawsuits should be reserved for those instances where you've suffered real injury or loss, and the other party's insurance won't pay. Why put yourself or the other guy through the agony of going to court when it was a simple mistake?

    Here's what you should insist on: Full payment for the cost of professional repairs, actual loss of value to the car (assuming there is any) after being repaired, medical costs you've incurred as the result of injuries, and compensation for any time lost from work. You should also make sure you get a comparable rental car provided while your 300M is out of commission.

    I've been through this before and I understand your anger--I got whacked a few years ago by a driver who ran a stop sign and really smashed up my two-day-old Saab 9000 Turbo. But, for your own benefit and the benefit of the other guy or gal, you need to step back, take a breath, and try to be reasonable about this. Trust me--the litigation process in this type of situation is not fun and you will pay a price in terms of time, inconvenience and frustration if you needlessly go down this path. If you need a lawyer to get you through this process, by all means hire one. But, don't let your anger and frustration get the better of you--the overwhelming odds are that this can be resolved without having to go to war.
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Posts: 558
    phase, i'm with you all the way. i don't even think of buying a used car thats been in a wreck. so obviously the cars' value goes down a lot. its more than reasonable to get that reimbursment for loss of value. and thill381, he's not suing because someone spilled poo on him, he's suing for legit reasons.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    i doubt im even suing anyone. spouse problems, i didnt say that. its called leverage to get what im owed. all im going for is what u mentioned in your last paragraph, in fact not even that much. i expect this to be settled w/o even hiring a lawyer.

    but okay, so much for my support group here, i can tell when im beat.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    thank you. bought time someone understood where im coming from. im not asking for anything unreasonable. i doubt it'll even make it to a laywer, and if it does, surely not to court. but if need be...

    well av at least one person here understands my situation. thanks man. i was starting to get fustrated with edmunds as this is supposed to be my support group.
  • thill381thill381 Posts: 64
    Once again, this is in no way an attack on you. Your post in the past have been insightful, as well as helpful. It just seems that in this day and age that everyone wants to sue everyone else, and merely for personal monetary advancement, not for true loss or injury.

    Being a used car manager for 7 years prior to taking the position I now have w/ Pentastar Service Equipment, I can assure you there will not be a significant difference in the trade in value of your car. The only visible signs your car will have that it has been hit is that any of the bolts holding panels on will have visible signs of being wrenched, i.e. paint scraped off them, and the under side of the trunk lid and any other panels r/r will be clear coated. The insides of all of the panels are not clear coated from the factory as they are cleared in the asembled position. There should be no over spray, or paint flaws from a reputable collision center. When I appraised cars even if I noticed that the car had been hit, as long as it drove fine it would not have an influence on the value of the car.

    I wish you only the best of luck w/ the car but as for the law suit......
  • I had the Ziebart Sound Barrier product applied today and it does help with the 2400 rpm resonance from the Borla. My seat-of-the-pants estimate is that it cut down on the exhaust resonance in the passenger compartment by 40-50%. I haven't taken it for a long drive yet, but it also perceptibly reduces the noise level over tar strips and other surface irregularities.

    I also spoke with Borla's customer service department. They're sending the annular venturis, free of charge, which they claim will eliminate the 2400 rpm resonance. As mentioned elsewhere, there are two slip-in venturis, which they recommend you tack-weld into the pipes. I may hold off on installing them, pending my assessment of whether the resonance still bugs me with the Sound Barrier treatment.

    Thanks to those who responded to my earlier inquiries regarding this problem.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    the last couple times ive tried to trade in a cars that had been wrecked i was offed an amazingly low amount. for example..

    a good friend of myne bout a car for 9 grand. good car. could never tell it was wrecked. we took it in to chrysler to trade it in a couple months later, and they told us it had been wrecked and the best they could do was 2800.

    i am not concerened with wether or not anyone can tell it has be hit, im concered with when it comes time to trade it, and chrsler laughs at me.

    this is only like the fifteenth car ive owned. i wish i new what i was doing.........
  • Sorry if I came across a little heavy. I know how frustrating this can be--you've got a car you love and it gets screwed up by someone who wasn't paying attention, then you find you have to drive a four-cylinder Corolla for 45 days because Chrysler can't locate a rear bumper. It's enough to make you want to scream.

    Being a lawyer, I am a strong proponent of the idea that you should "sue the bastards" if it's the only way to make yourself whole. I have no great affinity for insurance companies and it may turn out to be the right thing to do. My feeling is that you're better off trying to work through your insurance company to have the other guy's insurance fully compensate you. Don't get taken advantage of, but keep in mind that suing the other guy will keep this from getting resolved for a long time, with no guarantee that you'll get everything you're looking for.

    Good luck.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    yeah thats what im trying to do. i dont wanna sue cuz i dont wanna go thru a bunch of headaches. im trying to get his insurance company to compromise with me. the lawyers and everything else is really just leverage to help convince them. if i have to, then thats one thing.

    im not trying to take them for all they're worth..
    im not suing for millions. if i did sue it would be for a around 5k. if i have to..
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Posts: 958
    There's a big difference here. A wrecked car has alot of damage, including frame. How much damage do you have? Is it just the rear bumper, trunk, trunk lid, etc? Maybe the repair job done on that car the dealer saw wasn't a good one. Most times no one will know is was in a accident. Even a major one if it's done right. DO you have pics of the damage?
  • denvermdenverm Posts: 356
    In Colorado, a no-fault state, I believe you have to have medical expenses over a certain $ amount before you can sue for personal injury in a motor vehicle accident. Under that $ amount, your own insurance company just pays your medicals. I thought most states were similar.

    As to property damage, I personally believe that the value of a fully repaired car that's been hit is less than if it had never been hit, especially for a new car. Assuming you get your car repaired and are offered some reasonable amount for diminution in value ($2K? $4K? talk to a dealer), I'd say take it. Hiring an attorney is either going to cost you 25 - 33% on a contingency basis, or a fair amount on an hourly basis. You won't come out ahead by a lawsuit, assuming that the insurance company gives you an offer that's in the ballpark, even if it's not completely what you think it should be.
  • Saw on the DodgeIntrepid.net forum where Ottowkr was telling them the plant started building 2002 model year cars. He mentioned an Air Temp Sensor inline on the intake hose before it connects to the Throttle Body.

    Should be interesting to see that when they hit the showrooms.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    heck i dont know if its wrecked or minor. i know all they've givin an estimate for is the bodywork (the part that was hit) at 4k. they're gonna do a seperate one for the transmission thats screwed up now, and the rattling in the door, and whatever else a diagnostics brings up, seperately.

    im getting with chrysler monday to find out a fair figure for the diminution (?) amount.

    im only gonna hire an attorny if they refuse to work with me on this....the lawyers fees are unbelieveable.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    i just went to the gas station and when i turned into it, its sorta upshill entrance, and braked, it felt.... wrong. like grinding maybe? i dont know.. just not normal cuz i go to that gas station all the time its right by my house.. how could a rear ending hurt my brakes though??
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Well today the last 01 LH car was built. Guess what was the first 2002??? A black 300M built for Canada. Yes the rubber air intake tube now has a temp sensor on it , it is about an inch from the TB. The eng and trans controller is now one unit. Now two weeks summer vacation and then July 16 we start pumping out 2002's. Order yours today.........Otto
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    forgive my ignorance, but what benifits does this temp sensor have? i know it does what it says, but, what does it do after its gets the temp u know?
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    What are all of the changes to the 2002's? I've read the shared trans & engine cooler, air intake, tire pressure monitor and the new colors, but anything else visibly different, like the year-to-year trim revisions? Any new trim or other changes? Where is the tire pressure monitor and what does it look like/do?
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    For some reason, your photo site is no longer working. Everytime I try to visit, it has an error message. Check it out.
  • rogor2krogor2k Posts: 385
    Just got mine today. For anyone worrying about this being a refurb or "gray market" merchandise, be assured this is the full retail package with full factory warranty. It comes with wiring harnesses, brackets, everything but power wiring. If any installation shop wants to rip you off for "materials", walk quickly away and find another installer. The only material they need to supply is a 12 AWG (minimum) power lead to the battery terminal.
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Posts: 1,116
    did you check the door weatherstrip to see if you have the shrinking problem---I had bad weatherstripping and got them to replace strips on all four doors--see if its wet near the door edge at base where it meets with carpet
  • tnsc_300mtnsc_300m Posts: 76
    Phases, I got to know you well enought to say that I'm sure you're not out to hit a lottery win with this. You just want your car fixed and to be compensated for the loss in value. Plus your medical & treatment bills. Lawsuits are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] for all involved and I know you don't want or need that. Just getting to know your enemy (the other guys insurance company) like a smart soldier would. They're gonna try to jerk you around and minimize the whole thing down to a door ding. You know better and are getting ready to try to win what probably isn't a fair fight.
    you've got plenty of pics of the great car she is before all this and that could help.
    good luck to you.

    Fellas, there are way too many uninsured motorist in this state TN. Yes insurance is required but enforcement is a joke. and no passenger car inspection program here either. which makes an environment with to many deadbeats driving POS cars with no insurance and lots of people in this state unfortunately get screwed when they're victims in an accident. So making sure you get justly compensated is a major deal requiring mucho effort. I'm sure other places around have similar problems but around here it's a big pain to get a fair deal from the Insurance Co's. I understand where phases is coming from.

    my cyber $.02 worth
    tnsc_300M
  • wencaowencao Posts: 52
    http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/buzz/b062901.htm


    Any comments? I am wondering why Chrylser power its lower level model Intrepid and Concorde the same as 300N, so what is the advantage of buying a 300N if a cheaper 5.7HEMI powered Intrepid may beat 3.5L powerwed 300N ? Why cann't Chrysler rebuild its 300 glory by offering only HEMI powered 300N. If you want bargin please go for less powerful Intrepid/Concorde! Strange, seems chrysler don't know how to market their products.

  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    thanks for the support man...

    u coming up next weekend is it? wont be the same w/o my car, but we could still get together if u like?
  • tnsc_300mtnsc_300m Posts: 76
    Got the replacement coil-on-spark plug bolts today
    to replace the 4 torx heads that got stripped on my original ones when I/We tried to install my Platinum +4 plugs last weekend. Got 12 new ones, figure I may as well replace em all.
    12 bolts for $4.20 (w/o tax)

    pn# 6505121-AA @ $.35 ea. ordered 6/27 (wed.) arrived yesterday 6/28.

    While there asked about parts for Trans. filter service.
    filter pn# 4796730-AB @ $11.75 ea.
    gasket pn# 5010884-AA @ $4.95 ea.
    ATF+4 Fluid pn# 5013458-AA @ $30.00 gal.
    ( geez $7.50 qt./lt. that's more than some boozes cost)

    Sdmike, please add these to the PN FAQ you're compiling for the club.
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    u should also add the wiring color coding or whatever it was that avalanche posted a link too. i have it somewhere around here..
  • If you think $7.50 a quart for the atf 4 is expensive, when I still had my TJ I installed a NV4500 5 speed, it used a special syntec lubricant that you could get from Chevy or Chrysler. Oh did I mention that it cost $21.50 per quart and it took a little over a gallon to fill the tranny. Of course I guess if you can afford the $2500 price tag on the tranny you can afford $21.50 a quart for the lube.

    Keith
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