Chrysler 300M

300mmm · January 2002

sdmike2 - glad you asked, well I guessed right in getting the grey winter mats because the taupe is indeed closer to grey than tan, especially the carpet. It really is a nice interior particularly with the lux group trim. I am very happy with the choice.

We're expecting snow tomorrow :-( As soon as the kiddies are in bed I may go for a drive while it's still dry.

300michael · January 2002

I went today. Started off really good, mine was the third 300M parked all side by side. A White, Cinnamon, and my Cypress Green. I ran out of card (club) so I put the Club Pamplets on instead.
They did have the Cronos, and Atlantic on display, plus I got to see my old Challenger (miss that car). I also test drove the PT, 300M Special, and Sebring Convertable. I did wish the test was longer. I think I will have to go as a bidder next year, instead of just a looker. Sorry I missed you Igor, maybe later.

300michael · January 2002

Put me in for March second weekend, as I have out of state relitives comming in on Febuary 23rd. Post when you set the dates and place, so I can get it off. Need at least 2 weeks notice. I am not a gambler (My two trips to Vegas the only money I was held up for was the $5 in tokens the hotel gave me) So the place is not important, but the gathering of the Mer's are.
Just leave yourself enough gas money to get home. It would be a shame of you ran out of gas, and had to walk home.

scotian · January 2002

kind of slow...

scotian · January 2002

Incredibly slow. Unusably slow. For those of you who use it and have paid the $30, does if get any faster after paying?

scotian · January 2002

Sucks the big one. Is there another such service that uses something a bit faster than a 9600 baud modem?

300mmm · January 2002

Anyone have a recommendation on how long to wait until waxing the factory paint or putting something like the magnetbra on the the hood. How long is "cure" time?

beach15 · January 2002

Fotki-slow? I've never really had that impression of it. I know i have a slow PC & internet, but Fotki being a slug, I never noticed.

beach15 · January 2002

I have a similar question. The body shop repainted about half of the car the Monday before Christmas after it was repaired. Question is, how long should I wait before waxing this car? Right now, you can tell that any trace of wax was stripped before painting the car, as its not all that shiny and feels kind of course in some places. It's still too cold to wax anyway, but just a thought.

russklass · January 2002

Factory paint can be waxed anytime, it is cured at the plant.
For collision work paint, ask the shop. I have had answers from "right away is OK" to "wait 30 days." I would think 30 days would be safe.

jona57 · January 2002

I would suggest simply asking the body shop which did the painting. Explain your concerns & ask them how long they recommend before waxing. I was told to wait a month, but others in the auto paint industry have told me that modern base/clearcoats are essentially cured within a few days.

Beach- The coarse feeling to the paint may be overspray. Wash & dry a small area and examine it closely. If the area looks fine when wet but after drying looks dull and like it's covered with very small dots, that's likely overspray (i.e. paint or clearcoat sprayed on areas not properly masked off). The paint shop should take care of this (prob. by "claying" the surface with a special detailing clay bar and lubricant.) I had this trouble after my minor acident repair, and I got so frustrated with my 5*'s half-a**ed work that I finally just clayed the areas myself (I have some detailing experience & got the body shop manager to give me some of their detailing clay to get me out of her hair!). IF you decide to try claying the surface, keep the surface wet with the appropriate lubricant (usu. a quick-detailing spray) and use a light touch. Let the clay bar do the work. Remember that the clay will pick-up stuff, so NEVER use a clay bar that's fallen on the ground as it will have picked up dirt which will scratch your paint. Follow-up with a good wash and wax.

Jon

jona57 · January 2002

Either great minds think alike, or we're all getting the industry' s party line!

Jon

beach15 · January 2002

Thanks, this will all be useful. We could contact the shop who did the work but I think we've bothered them enough for 2 months. I really don't think we would have to wait that long, considering nothing was ever mentioned to us when we picked the car up. I probably wouldn't do it until early spring anyway. Hopefully, too, I can get some Zaino and try it out on the Deep Slate!

Thanks!

scotian · January 2002

Has it been verified that they are not available for 300Ms with PHP?

scotian · January 2002

Although the 300M is not listed at http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.htm, this site seems to sell them:

http://www.myroadster.net/porterfield.asp

Porterfield review:

http://www.miata.net/products/pm...field.html

EBC review:

http://www.miata.net/products/pmisc/ebc.html

scotian · January 2002

Has anyone tried this?

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/carbotech.html

fuzzywuzzy · January 2002

I got rotors treated like that for my Explorer. It was a kit, they were slotted too. I will try to dig up the website. They made them for the M too. On a truck app like mine, they were a HUGE difference. Had them on for over a year, no rust, no warpage. They just stop. On a car I don't know. My disk are hidden behind the rims, so no one see's them. You can see the 300M's. I rotated my tires last month, & the rotors were still shiny silver in color.

triffner · January 2002

I need help! When I get into my car I can hear a humming sound coming from either the controls for the heating and ac or from the CD player.Also this is w/o putting key into ignition. Does anyone else have this hum coming from theirs?
Also having trouble with seat adjusting by itself.
I keep my seat all way back so no need for it to self adjust either forward or back .. but it does.
They replaced memory for seat and apparently that not it because still moving.

scotian · January 2002

Hello Scott,

Interesting question...seems like the pads should be bigger to match the
larger rotor...

The books I have show a Porterfield 591 Front and a 512 rear, with or
without Performance package up through year 2001. As you say, books show a
larger rotor - but the same size pad is specified.

Your dealer could easily verify that the pad size is the same, with a phone
call.

Unless you have a 2002 - and there has been a change - I don't have
information for 2002 models.
(Actually nearly any pad can be identified with a tracing of the metal
backing plate - faxed to me with height and width of pads shown)

Let me know what you find out...

Jerry

If the pads are indeed the same, then:
Front: 591 List $79, MyR $74
Rear 512 List $79, MyR $74

scotian · January 2002

Actually, one of my rifle barrels was cryogenically treated...

makoman · January 2002

BEWARE OF INTERIOR WATER LEAKS! I have posted on this before ...the latest is that when it rains hard enough to overflow into the fresh air intake and when the heater plenen fills up as well it overflows into the interior of the car below the heater on pass side..this was supposedly confirmed by a dealer in Seattle. Any body have any knowledge of this problem? Anybody have as many miles in thier 300 as me?

beach15 · January 2002

90k and your 300 is still running?!--Just joking!

It does seem as though you do have a really bad leak issue in your M. I really don't have the slightest clue of what it might be but do have a question for you.

What is a 300M like when it's so close to the 100k mark?

We only have 16,500 miles but I'm just curious. Does it seem looser feeling, does stuff look worn, or how does the engine seem (power and sound-wise)? I just can't imagine us ever having that many miles on a car, regardless if it's 4 years old.

As for having more miles, yes I have actually seen it. In late summer, there was a used 1999 300M that was Candy Apple Red with Camel leather on Ebaymotors that had 102,000 miles on the clock! I was amazed from the pictures at how good it still looked, detailed and spotless like new! From future predictions, I can't imagine our 300M ever getting over the 50,000 mark while we still own it, that is, if we don't dispose of it right after the first out of warranty repair.

Our 1997 Grand Voyager had 40k on it when we traded it, and it was perfect the whole time. For some reason though, I'm a little bit wary of what's going to happen when the 300M hits the 36k mark!

on1wheel · January 2002

hi all,i done some research a while back on this and what i found out is on somethings this is good,on others its not. as for brake rotors,i found noone who could prove to me that this is worthwhile. it is a fact that if metel becomes too hard as (as in rotors),you lose friction on the surface,when the two materials compress. it is another fact,that pads and rotors need friction to stop you. i found that most autocross racers do not do this because they want maximum braking and go thru several sets of brakes and rotors a season.
as for slotting,i found autocrossers use this because it actually acts as a sort of cutting blade to clean off the hard spots on the pad,in turn leads to much quicker wear of brakes. this is also done to remove gasses which prevents the pads from touching but i found most companys doing slotting dont even cut slot all the way to the edge of rotors,which is the incorrect procedure because the gasses cant get all the way out.
as for the crossdrilling ,this aids in removal of gasses to allow the bads to bind,with out cutting material off the rotors and makes the tempature lower,resulting in increased wear,less warpage,and less brake fade .
as for the rusting,get them cad plated as this is cheap(cost me $10 each).and also adds in cooling because rust does not disapate heat very well.

as for me,i got the KVR rotors with carbon fiber pads,and i`m very satisfied. cadplated silver. looks great,and with my wheels having an open design,everyone notices them being cross drilled.

hope this helps out ! good luck

indydriver · January 2002

I have 80,000 miles on my '99 M. Its running great, getting very good mileage and is trouble free after a couple of problems prior to 36K. However, it definitely has loosened up over the years and miles. There are more body squeaks. I especially notice the body groans when backing out of my driveway over the curb while turning. You can hear and see the sunroof twisting.

triffner · January 2002

Does yours hum from the a/c and heating controls?

99_300m_ric_va · January 2002

Ok, fixed the drivers seat, only use two bolts per seat, so TSB must fix both seats.

Steps are simple as follows:

Remove the seat as usual, 2 bolts in front, 2 bolts in rear.

Unplug one small and one large electrical connector.

Remove seat and look for two large T50 Torx head bolts.

Remove and replace with new bolts.

Reinstall seat.

Pics:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rpowelljr300n/vwp?.dir=/My+Photos/Seat+Movement+Fix

triffner · January 2002

Sounds like some kind of motor running. I'm still under warranty.

on1wheel · January 2002

hi all,i done some research a while back on this and what i found out is on somethings this is good,on others its not. as for brake rotors,i found noone who could prove to me that this is worthwhile. it is a fact that if metel becomes too hard as (as in rotors),you lose friction on the surface,when the two materials compress. it is another fact,that pads and rotors need friction to stop you. i found that most autocross racers do not do this because they want maximum braking and go thru several sets of brakes and rotors a season.
as for slotting,i found autocrossers use this because it actually acts as a sort of cutting blade to clean off the hard spots on the pad,in turn leads to much quicker wear of brakes. this is also done to remove gasses which prevents the pads from touching but i found most companys doing slotting dont even cut slot all the way to the edge of rotors,which is the incorrect procedure because the gasses cant get all the way out.
as for the crossdrilling ,this aids in removal of gasses to allow the bads to bind,with out cutting material off the rotors and makes the tempature lower,resulting in increased wear,less warpage,and less brake fade .
as for the rusting,get them cad plated as this is cheap(cost me $10 each).and also adds in cooling because rust does not disapate heat very well.

as for me,i got the KVR rotors with carbon fiber pads,and i`m very satisfied. cadplated silver. looks great,and with my wheels having an open design,everyone notices them being cross drilled.

hope this helps out ! good luck

dukeofdallas · January 2002

I have the same humming noise in my '99. Everything works though, so I haven't bothered to investigate.

I also have a rather loud whining noise coming from the front of my engine. This is something I do need to investigate but I am a famous procrastinator. The car performs great despite the annoying noise. Anybody have any thoughts on what might be causing the noise? One mechanic said it sounds like a bearing noise coming from the belts, but he'd have to start peeling things off to be certain.

carleton1 · January 2002

At the Annual Auto Show I sat in a very nice 300M and it appeared that it lacked this nice feature of all Chrysler Town & Country minivans.
Although the 300M is very attractive and a hot performer, since we are older we prefer the higher seating and better visibility of the DC minivans.

glennbp · January 2002

HI On1wheel,
Where did you get this done or did you just buy new rotors. I am VERY interested in getting this, but everyone I talk to here in San Diego says it would cost a fortune and I would have to ship my rotors (thus no ride) for several weeks! If you have a supplier, I would love to know who!

Thanks,
Glenn

sdmike2 · January 2002

Nope. However, they have separate seat heater controls. Kind of like an electric blanket for your butt.

sdmike2 · January 2002

what part of San Diego? I live in the Rancho Penesquitos area. I'm working on organizing a get-together in Vegas for the 300mclub.org at the beginning of March too. If you're a member it would be great to have you along.

sdmike2 · January 2002

I got the joshua tree part you sent. Not bad travel time. When it's light out tomorrow I'll go see what it looks like next to the real wood. Looks great here in my hand! Thanks again.
Mike

300michael · January 2002

There is a motor that runs constantly behind the A/C controls. It sucks air from the little vents, for the thermistat can measure the temp of the cabin. it is below the fan speed control knob. Sounds like it could use some lub. Normally is is almost silent and can hardly be heard. I would tell the dealer to replace the unit.

300michael · January 2002

for a day now and so far no problems. Apparently the guy who presses the selfdestruct buttons at head quarters fell asleep. Still no problems to speak of except for a couple of blown fuses (caused by me) in my adventures in rewiring the 300M. I will need to up grade the Battery. With all the stuff I have it powering it drains pretty quickly now. This car is a keeper (at least until the "N" comes out).

ajpiii · January 2002

Dude...

You have the 20" Tramps with the Cross Drilled Rotors ! Thats exactly what Im looking at doing... This brings up another question, last I heard KVR had a problem with the carbon fiber pads not fitting right or something... Did they correct this ? and how much did the set run you for all 4 rotors and pads ?

Ok now I gotta bug you again for the pics man... that just has to look bad [non-permissible content removed]...

sel714 · January 2002

We have over 68000 on our M. We love the car even though we have had many trips to the 5*. Everything from problems with the Goodyears two sets before the Michelin Piolets solved the problem. The latest was both electric cooling fans had to be replaced. I am glad I had the extended warantey it only cost $57 it would have been over $400. I still would like to keep the car but they can't seem to fix the water leek. They put a new door gasket on the driver side door and said they sealed several body seams. But I am still getting a wet spot on the drivers side right about where my right heel rests on the floor.
Its about the size of a grapefruit. Every time I think its dry It will rain or I will wash the car and its wet again. I am going to make an appt with the 5* again and see what happens?

scotian · January 2002

I have heard that cutting the slots all the way to the edge of the rotor is the wrong way to do it as it weakens the rotor. Any gasses will still escape if the rotor edge is intact, unless you have full 360 degree pads!

on1wheel · January 2002

www.kvrperformance.com

this is where you can find them.i got then just a cpl months ago,and very happy. i paid right at $640.00 for them,including shipping.they are located in canada.i cant remember the guys name(dave i think) that i dealt with. he was very helpful. he was unsure about the php option but he ordered a stock set of rotors to measure and make sure they worked.he actually used the DC rotors, and drilled them. you can get them cadded in silver,gold,or black. one other guy on here said he had probablems with his pads,but he bought his in `99. mine worked perfectly.
if you call them, mention my name for reference, so it might make things quicker!

andy crawford,in ohio

mine is a `99 php.

he may even offer a club discount to everyone.

as for pics,im still workin on that. weather been bad here,and had no time to even wash the thing!
i was waitin on a set of springs,but that deal went to the pits!
guess thats a sign tellin me to leave it alone,since i just raised my duelly back up a lil after 8 years of being slammed!
i`ve also got an idea on some stripes i want to try,anxious to get everyone oppinion on them.

just call them at KVR,and im sure they will take good care of you as they did me.very friendly people. i guess thats some of that canadian hospitality i`ve been hearing about!

on1wheel · January 2002

i have been told many stories,and the only positive ones came from the guys who does them,and the guys that autocross,who said they only do it to their racecars,due to short pad life.and when you wanna win,you spare no expense,as they go thru a couple dozen sets a year.as for the right way,i`ve seen several ways.such as strait,curved,and even a offset perfect circle that i seen on one of the prowler sites. as for slots used to remove the gasses,crossdrilling does same thing but lets air escape thru to vents of rotor. as for preference,i think the drilled looks better than slotted,and i dont think anyone drives any harder than i do,i havent noticed a real big difference in them my self in performance. basicly we buy them for looks,and i had several companys confirm that!,but hey,thats why we all drive our m`s right!

I always did say "lifes to short to drive an ugly car"

on1wheel · January 2002

is it me or have i posted a lot here lately?
i guess im hooked on edmunds,and yahoo!club. seems i cant go a day (wife says hours)with out checking out all this good stuff on here. afraid i might miss something i can use along the way,(not for personal gain of course). hehe ,any how,i enjoy all the info that comes this way!

easyrider300m · January 2002

best place I found for stripes and graphics : http://intricatelines.com/html/defaultc.htm They can do it all--custom design stripes and graphics of all kinds.

just got back from a nice cruise to the Carrib. Good to be back online again.

Easyrider

scotian · January 2002

Do the PHP and non-PHP 300Ms share the same brake pads?

99_300m_ric_va · January 2002

Hey I found these links over at dodgeintrepid.net:

http://www.geocities.com/custom_lh/Gear_Install_Photos.html

99_300m_ric_va · January 2002

K&N makes a new air kintae that bolts right on and the part no. is 63-1029.

http://www.clan-510.org/0101/PT_Image.jpg

sdmike2 · January 2002

Thae title of that picture implies that it's for a PT cruiser. You know anything more about the part? If you back up in that directory you'll find an 11MB AVI file of the owner trying to exceed 100mph without blowing up. Definately not an M.

glennbp · January 2002

Hi All,

The 63-1029 is an aircharger for the 300M (actually it will fit any recent 3.5L engine.) Here's the search result from their website:

Search Results: You Searched For:

Year=2001
Make=Chrysler
Model=300M
3 Matches Found (displaying 1 to 3)
Model Engine Product Part No Comments
300M 3.5L V6 F/I Aircharger Off Road Kit 63-1029 All
300M 3.5L V6 F/I K&N Air Filter 33-2136 All
300M 3.5L V6 F/I K&N Oil Filter HP-2004 (G)

These results are a complete list of K&N products available for the vehicle entered. We release new products weekly. If you are looking for a product that is not available for your vehicle, please check back occasionally.

300mmm · January 2002

Dealer didn't intall the front license plate frame because they have broken too many grills when drilling into them to do so. Naturally, I'm not enthusiastic about drilling holes in my new car anywhere either. Does anyone know of another solution? I doubt it but I thought I would ask.

uxca300m · January 2002

The front license plate holes are below the grill and drilled into the front bumper. The stock grey holder just "cups" over the chrome grill. I took my stock one off and just drilled another of couple of holes in the bumper and installed a chrome holder so that it didn't cover any part of the grill. Why your dealer would be trying to drill into the grill itself is a mystery.

Chrysler 300M

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