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Chrysler 300M



  • sirharpersirharper Posts: 112
    go to I gave them my xenon business since I thought their website was very well organized and they seemed to know about 300M's (rare).
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    i can get in
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    As can I. Sirharper, they changed the password a couple of days ago. Check your email.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    My basslink arrived today. Yay! Probably will get it installed on Monday.
  • sirharpersirharper Posts: 112
    They never told me! I know they have the right email address too. Well maybe one the the folks in charge will see this and decide to actually respond to me.
  • denvermdenverm Posts: 356
    I just emailed the new password to the email address shown for you in the member directory. Sorry if you were somehow not included in the notification email that was sent to all members recently.
  • timbotimbotimbotimbo Posts: 15
    Went to my Chrysler dealer tonight and received the following quote:

    Loaded 2001 300M

    LIst 33395

    rebate 2500
    dealer discount 2500

    Final cost 28395

    This would be the first new car I ever bought so I have no idea what kind of deal this is. I would appreciate any input from you previous buyers.

  • ruskiruski Posts: 1,566
    go to and price a 300M with the options that you want. Then show it to the dealer. When I go to that site, it usually shows something in the neighborhood of $27K
  • sirharpersirharper Posts: 112
    2002's are coming out in about 2 months or less, no way would you get that sales figure on the 2002 this year. Looks like a decent deal. My 2000 M was stickered at 31995 last year and got it down to 26590 so it looks like a comparable deal.
  • sirharpersirharper Posts: 112
    They started at list of $1100 for the top tier service contract (5 year/75000 mile) they told of some B.S. "managers special" and rapidly cut in in half to $550. Still not amused I told em $400 they said no but then 2 days later called back and changed their minds as long as I agreed to pay for it separately (they didn't want to redo the financing).
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Posts: 1,116
    use a car pricing service--I believe edmunds offer it as well as some other sites---and be sure to check to see if they list rebates etc--if they dont include a rebate on the site, you should discount any know chrysler rebates from price from the site--I would think they could do at least $1000 better than that price--that rebate is a good one --$2500--Chrysler is really getting desperate to increase sales--I took the low financing at less than 1 percent for 5 full years--I figure its worth about a $5000 savings---I paid $28600 for a 32215 list and received no rebate as I took the financing instead---never settle for the first price they offer you---you're better to go in with a price your willing to pay after doing your research to find out their true cost of the car--then add about $400 to that figure to get an approximate reasonable price to pay--
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Posts: 558
    starting to gut the interior today, and i was just wondering...i put no some blad racing tires off my friends car yesterday and we wet down this huge paved parking lots, doing donuts and sidestops and stuff. much easier for him since he hand handle emergency brake. so i took mine apart today, and just an idea but couldn't we get a longer emergency brake cable from another chrysler vehicle, same diameter, and make a pulley to use a handle brake?
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Posts: 1,116
    why are you abusing your nice M like that---just wears out the tires faster--and those men in blue might show up with all the noise goin on--

    speaking of donuts---you just made me hungry--its time for my donut run--see ya later

  • 300mlover300mlover Posts: 132
    WOW, WOW, WOW!

    That's what I have been saying all day today as I drove my car. This Infinity Basslink is absolutely amazing! I cannot believe the amount of bass produced by this thing as small as it is. It produces better bas than I have heard from most sub/amp set ups. Wanna se some pics of it installed?

    It sounds best in the corner right next to the factory amp. It also needs to be angled slightly towards the back. Look at pic 1 you can't even see it!!!

  • avalanche165avalanche165 Posts: 558
    they weren;t my tires or rims. old set a friend had laying around. and his dad's a cop, he was supervising us, gave me teh parking brake handle idea.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    $5,000 off MSRP is what I got on my car, but I only had a $2,000 rebate. Your car is about $1,000 less than loaded, but you didn't say what it had/didn't have. Go to and get a quote. A "good" deal is $500 cheaper. The trick is finding out what the car cost the dealer and then offering them a reasonable profit. The invoice on that car is probably around $31,000. Subtract dealer holdback of 3% (about $1,000) and you get a dealer cost of $30,000 for the car. If you give them your $2,500 rebate then their "cost" is $27,500. Under this scenario their profit is about $900, or about 3%....which most will consider reasonable. I worked my butt off to get the dealer down to a $250 profit, but it's not easy to do.

    Now that you have a good starting price, don't let them shaft you on trade-ins, financing, service contracts or add-ons. Do plenty of research to determine what your trade-in is REALLY worth and hold out for it (or keep the car). Negotiate selling price and trade-in separately so you know what you're really getting. Contact your credit union or bank and other financing organizations like to get an idea of financing rates or even get pre-approved. I had two loans pre-approved when I went into buy my car. The dealer wouldn't beat what I already had in place. Also research service contracts in advance if you want one. A good place is Go in armed to the gill with information and you'll help reduce the chance of getting shafted somewhere. Remember, these guys do this for a living. We buy cars only once every several years. They're better than us at it. Information and preparation helps level the playing field.

    For helpful tips visit

    You've made a great choice in the M. Keep us posted!

  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Great news! Thanks for the pics!! Mine gets installed tomorrow afternoon. Your information will be VERY helpful!

    How did they hook it up? Did they run the wires off the amp or bring them from the stereo up front? Which speakers did they pirate the signal off of (if out of the amp). How are you going to get to the spare with part of that foot on the spare cover?

  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    I agree with sdmike2- BE PREPARED. One other thing to remember- even though you're buying a brand new car, it's already one year old and has depreciated one year. So, while $5,000 might seem like a great deal, maybe it's not. I'd take a chance and wait for the 2002's to come out and see what happens then. I'm sure you'll still be able to locate a 2001 if there's no good deals on the 2002's.

  • 300mlover300mlover Posts: 132
    Wires were brought from the wires coming out of the radio as to not effect output from factory amp to the factory speakers. One other thing. My installer tried to use that wiring diagram Av supplied and it is incorrect unfortunately. they wired it up so when I fade from front to back speakers it doesn't effect the sub at all. As for the problemo. We left the screw out of that foot you see on the spare cover. So it will be easy to get to.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Thanks for the info. I guess the fading issue is why the basslink unit has plugs for 4 sets of wires, two front speaker outputs and two rear speaker outputs. That way it won't be impacted by the fader. I'll see what my guys want to do. If they want to run from the head unit I'll let them. It's a shame the infinity system doesn't have a subwoofer pre-amp and control like some other high-end units (like what I put in my mitsubishi).

    How did you decide on that location?

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