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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    Oh man, that's first degree dirty. I know it's cold for a wash up there but a Special that looks like that is near criminal!
  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    Okay, which one of you sent me the rattle I've detected in my sunroof?
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    2004 will feature several major product launches. Topping the list will be the third generation of Chrysler's "LH" full size sedans. Codenamed LX, the replacement for the current Intrepid and Concorde were originally scheduled to make their debut in model year 2003. The current Buzz is that they will instead be badged as 2004's (though I've also heard that they me 2003.5's)...Austinman,,this is from the website..it stays pretty well up to date..
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    Not me.....I do not have a single rattle to spare!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    The 2004 300M will be a cary over from 2003. We start building 2004 cars the first week of Feb. The last day of LH car production is Aug 28 . Then the plant will close and retool for the 2004.5 LX car . The first cars for dealers will be built sometime in Jan 2004. I hear we will launch the Dodge Magnum first , then 6 months later the 300? (C or N) .
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Yeah I know its dirty , but remember its not my car , its my brothers. I told him to wash it . We have lots of no touch car washes around so there is no excuse .
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    Hmmmm,

    Lutz went to GM. DC is heading off in a different direction with the 300.

    Has anybody paid any attention to the specs on the Pontiac G6 concept? 113 in wheelbase, FWD, and 285hp. And it looks awfully similar to the current M of you stare at it long enough. In fact had DC evolved the current M it might have ended up looking a lot like the G6.

    This could be interesting.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    All three of the Auto mags I get had the same cover this month. The proto type [probably 05] Mustang convertible. I saw an awful lot of that car that said "Chrysler Hemi C." Looks to me like Ford stole the looks and is going to sell a million of them when it hits the streets. I want my Hemi C, and I want it now!! Please build it Otto.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    Pontiac G6 is the next version of Grand Am, quite a bit smaller than 300M.

    But I see 300M in the next Pontiac Grand Prix.
  • gary_berggary_berg Member Posts: 28
    I placed an order with my dealer in mid-December for my second 300M. I've just got a VON number from him. Is there any way I can check/track order status on the web with this, or do I have to call DC Customer Service to do this.

    He said the car is in a "D" state...
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    The dealer just called and said they "think" the whine noise I am hearing is coming from the steering pump? There is no sound when I turn the car, it's only a high pitched whine when I accelerate. It rises in pitch, drops a bit when the tranny shifts, and then rises again. Car runs fine. I could swear it sounds like one of the two idle pulleys going bad (a/c and alt) or perhaps a vacuum leak, but the steering pump?!?!?! I am smelling another "repair sell" in the works here. Does anyone know if the steering pump can make a sound like that, when the car isn't even turning?
    Phil
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    $650 to replace the steering pump. Service rep swears the noise is coming from the pump. He said it is only a matter of time before it fails. Pump $280, labor $335.

    I'm at $3500 in Chrysler dealer repair costs now on the 300M at 51k miles. I don't think I can afford this car.
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    6 months between the Magnum and the LX? That will be the worst 6 months of my life I'm betting. Given the Magnum won't be a high volume model, what will you guys build after retooling? You guys need to start churning out cars so you can get paid. Seems with all the down weeks, they would be itching to roll with production and just skip the 2004 short run all together. Geesh, what are they thinking?

    I sure would like to drive a new LX to the 2004 Dream Cruise.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    I've been studying the C&D issue on the Magnum SRT-8 and I'm in. Have you seen any superchargers laying around the plant lately? What a great combination of space and sport. This is going to be hard to top with the new 300.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    since that pesky check engine light is still on and the trans is starting to give the occasional 'clunk' on a hard upshift. Anyone had a torque converter replaced? My first quote is $675.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    from beach15, topcut, and ottowrkr on my question about the 2004 300M. Sounds like I could buy the current design next fall as a 2004 model, or wait until sometime in 2004 for the redesign.

    topcut -- you said your info was from the website -- which site is that? I went to chrysler.com and all I found was 2003 info, no news on upcoming redesigns. Thanks.
  • rrmanrrman Member Posts: 21
    Popular Science has a small article on this collaboration between DC and MIT for researching driver behavior/actions. It was first publicized back in Oct, but not on this board that I could find. Some of the features sound neat and useful with practical application.
    Has anyone on this board driven it?
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    I guess past tense for VIN is VON :)
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    The magnum will be a very high volume car , our plant does not work well with low volume . They will build as many as they can sell. Sure we will be down come Aug 29 but dont forget many of us will not be off long as we need special training on the LX car . Also as soon as they have the lines back in place we will be building pilot cars ( not for sale but testing) so we may not be building for the customer but we will be building cars to go to DC testing and we make lots that go to rental fleets in LA , and Orlando and other large cities . This gives us fast feedback on build quality issues. I am told we will launch a new model every 6 months till we are building 7 versions of the LX . So we really wont be off for that long .
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    vin is the cars serial number , von is the vehicle order number .
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I also have a whine for several thousand miles now--its a high pitched noise even at idle--the dealer tells me they believe its just a bad belt--Let us know what you end up having replaced. You may want to get a second opinion from another dealer or from a corner mechanic. Someone on the "other" board said you could spray the belts with wd40 to test whether noise is caused by the belt---if noise disappears, its the belt. I didnt try this as yet. Keep us informed.

    Easyrider300M
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    Don't apply any petroleum distillates to a rubber belt. You won't be happy with the results.
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    The G6 has the same wheelbase as the 300M and overall it is smaller, about a foot shorter and 4 inches narrower and lower. But has a wider track, is lighter, has more horsies and AWD. Depending on how it's packaged, the interior could provide a fair amount of room.

    Identical? No. A one for one replacement to the M? No. But then again neither is the 300N going to be a one for one to the M either.

    For sure Lutz's influence at GM is written all over that car.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    They had to order a steering pump, so it will be 3-4 more days before they fix the sound. They continue to insist it is the steering pump. The sound occurs when I rev at idle, so I wouldn't think it was a transmission issue.

    I am having a hard time swallowing the Chrysler/Dodge dealers' service costs. In St. Louis, they charge a flat $50 to diagnose the problem, which I can understand (the "lift fee"). But now they also charge me, on top of the $50, another $50 for 1/2 hour of mechanic time to diagnose the problem. What gives? They bill their mechanics out at $100/hour (which is probably 80% gross profit markup). The situation they are creating, I think intentionally, is that it forces you to have them do the work rather than take it somewhere else, even for a second opinion. I asked them if they would credit the final repair bill to replace the steering pump ($600 parts+labor) with the $100 and they said "no". This is getting to be worse than emergency room billing at a hospital or hiring an attorney! I do plan to voice my dissatisfaction with the Service Manager - but my experience is that it will fall on deaf ears. They've got the franchise and they know it. By the way, the Service Rep seemed to imply that if I had a service contract, their charges would be less. Essentially, those without service contracts are mullets for the taking. He told me he would NEVER advise anyone buy a Chrysler or Dodge vehicle without a service contract. Sadly, buying service contracts is practically a requirement now when you buy a car.
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    It might just be the power steering pump pully. I had a whine like that, that's where it was coming from. Chrysler's great design is to intergreat the pully with the pump, so you have to get a new pump, just for a pully problem. So they replaced it under warranty at like 20K miles, only to have the belt break a week later on the HW, had no power steering, or AC, or alternator power. Turned out they didn't put the belt on correctly. It was then I decided to get an extended warranty.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    I was not aware that there was a pully integrated with the pump. Thanks for the heads up and info. I am going to have them replace the belts while they are at it. Phil
  • blowbyublowbyu Member Posts: 26
    If you check my previous posts, you will note that I listed all the problems I have had with my car. Most of them were under the 3/36 warranty. I knew the extended service contract would come in handy. With the amount of electronics and gadgets you find in cars these days, you can't go without a service contract unless you are leasing.

    After the seventh year when the contract expires, its time to trade it in.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    I hear you, but I don't agree entirely. Cars with good repair records can still be found. I love the 300M, but I love the repair record on my 1994 CAMRY XLE V6 much better: 110,000 miles and total repair costs to date $250 (and that's with a 17 year old driver behind the wheel for the last year). I am looking to buy a contract, however, for my wife's one year old Sebring LXi V6. I am fearful of it's mechanical future.

    I am just saddened that the car I have loved for 4 years has let me down as frequently as it has:

    2 speeed sensors
    3 failed window regulators/motors?
    Transmission hydraulic pump failure
    A/C Evaporator leak
    Steering Pump failing

    All of the above ocurred between 36k and 51K miles, wouldn't you know. And I baby the car. Have never hit a pothole of any size, no curb hits, oil change every 3-5k miles, radiator flush, etc. etc. I am a good daddy.
  • topcuttopcut Member Posts: 54
    The website I was referring to was www.car-truck.com.....They offer info that is all Chrysler...New models coming, etc,,Kinda like a spy network :):).....They just posted the Pacifica pricing....Good reading for up and coming mopar stuff.....I think there is another site called www.allpar.com......seems I seen something that...Hope this helps ya..
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    If you can find the belt tensioner pulleys, there are two, one just lower than the alternator and one at the bottom left as you face the engine. Try lubricating them with a good oil. if the noise goes away its one of the tensioners not the pump.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    Thanks! I'll give it a try. Apparently when the dealer's service dept did the safety inspection on the 300M, someone dropped something into the round oval vent (about 6 inch oval shape) near where they stuck the inspection sticker (messily I might add) onto the lower inside driver corner of the windshield. I think this is a defrost vent (it is not the vent that is aimed at the side driver's window), but not absolutely cetain. I discovered this as I was driving to work this morning - a rattle sound came from the area and I visually saw something white inside the vent opening (razor blade?). Can anyone tell me if the matte black section of the dash cover can be easily removed? I don't want the dealer to fix it, they'll just screw something else up or scrape the plastic, I'm sure, then I'll have to stare at it.
  • ajpiiiajpiii Member Posts: 260
    If its that flat panel where the center speaker is in the dash then all you have to do is remove the trim on the drivers side pillar (pops off), and then pop up the panel where the speaker & vent are...
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    Thanks. The piece I need to remove is the matte black piece that runs the length of the dash and is up against the windshield. The little red infrared thing-a-ma-bob sticks up through it. So I just remove the A pillar plastic from the driver side pillar and this will allow me to remove this black piece? I assume its held in place by the A pillar trim at each end then?
  • ajpiiiajpiii Member Posts: 260
    Taking the A pillar trim off lets you get a good angle to pop up the long trim piece your after... I believe the long trim piece is held in place with some of those trim clips as well... just have to pop it up... Comes out real easy... No tools required :)
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,686
    Great.

    Anywho, my '99 M turned 43,000 miles Monday night on the way to a little night skiing. Fold down half the rear seat and my 195cm K2s fit in easily, no ski rack required. Plenty of room for two passengers and their stuff, too. Another aspect of this great do-it-all sedan.

    Luckily, knock plood, my window motor and speed sensor were covered by the 3/36. No issues post-warranty. I've never bought, and probably never will, buy an extended warranty. I've (again knock on plood) never had the need on any car I've owned. Of course, I've mostly owned Japaneese...but for a domestic (Chrysler, no less!) first model year, my M has been okey-dokey. Hopefully, this will continue for at least the next 20,000 miles. Even the Goodyears have been ok, if not a bit noisy.

    I still love looking at this car!

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    Plastic wood I presume? Glad to hear you have been safe so far. I love this car so much I would hate to part with it, but the last 15k miles have not been good. I've never felt the need to buy an extended warranty in the past, but I do now. The parts are not the cost problem so much as $100/hour for dealer mechanic labor. Virtually anything that goes wrong after 36k miles costs $500+ to fix. Every time I go in, they say "well you do have an extended contract don't you"? I sometimes think that there is now almost a "systemic expectation" that any buyer that does not lease will have to purchase an extended contract. What does this say about where overall vehicle quality is headed? Next to health care costs, vehicle repair costs have to be second, or closing rapidly. What has essentially happened, IMHO, is that the dealers have been squeezed on the new car margins and are billing for every second in the service department to make it up.
  • hmk123hmk123 Member Posts: 122
    I have the taupe leather and have some dark stains that were left by a dark leather jacket. I cleaned it so far with Blue Coral leather cleaner. But I have not been able to get the stains out 100%. You can still see dark spots. Any suggestions about what would work best? Thanks.
  • jona57jona57 Member Posts: 194
    hmk123

    I am not familiar with the Blue Coral product. I would try the mildest cleaners first and CAREFULLY work up from there in "aggressiveness". If a plain clean damp washcloth does not do it, I would try Lexol's leather cleaner. Saddle soap would be my next step, then The Tannery cleaner/protectant. Meguiar's also makes some good leather care products.
    You might also try a good professional detailer (check references first!).
    Good luck!

    Jon
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    Try your local leather dry cleaner, you probably have a dye transfer.
    He may be able to recommend or give you some commercial product to help.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    Turns out that in addition to something being dropped down the top-of-dash defrost vent (I got it out with a pair of hemostats), as I was filling the car at the gas station last night I found 2 long (10") thin bolts lying on top of the outside plastic cowling under the windshield wipers. Turns out the purpose of these bolts is to somehow strenghten or support the front fascia - the mechanic forgot to re-install them and placed them there (not sure why they had to be removed in the first place, maybe to get at the steering pump?). Thank god they didn't fly off my car at 70 mph into someone's windshield (they are not heavy and had unthreaded tapered tips). I didn't see them because they were black and blended perfectly into the cowling/wipers. Dealer installed them, took an hour, not even a "we're sorry". I guess they didn't think my hour was worth $100. Local automobile dealers association here in St. Louis has launched a big PR media campaign to improve their image. They need it.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Member Posts: 1,083
    I have had this since new. I have the TSB and have taken it to two dealers they say they cannot reproduce anybody know what the actual "Fix" to this problem is. About to do 30k service and would like this done. Also looking at my coolant resovior it looks empty yet no overheating or starting problems anybody have a clue? Would really like to have all these fixed before warranty expires.

    thx
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    I'm not sure about the current incentives anywhere else, but in Delaware at least, Chrysler is currently offering either a $3,00 rebate or 0.0% up to 60 months on all 300M's. Sounds like great deals are ready to be had, probably due to slow sales and the fact that many early 2004's will be out very soon. But I wonder if it will only take a month or so to see the same deals on those 2004's when they show up...
  • melzian1melzian1 Member Posts: 8
    What Happened to this Web Site? The text is now extremely small and now very hard to read. In addition, how can one now scroll ahead or behind to see the various messages? I can't find the familiar buttons that used to be on these pages. Am I the only one having problems with this Web Site? Thanks to all!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The Town Hall (in conjunction with the parent Edmunds.com website) has implemented a design change.

    Go to Town Hall New Look! and post your feedback. That is the discussion the developers are monitoring, so that's where your reactions will be heard.

    Just click on that link to get there.
  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    Any M owners change their own oil? I have always preferred to do-it-myself using ramps to get the car up but with my Special it appears that the front facia will hit the ramps before the wheels do. Any suggestions besides jacking it up and using stands? I'm quickly approaching time for the first change at 3,000.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    About 20 years ago, I made a pair of ramps out of 2x4 lumber that I still use today. For each ramp, saw two 12-15" lengths and lay them side by side. Then saw two lengths equal to the width of the side by side 2x4s and nail them side by side across one end of the longer lengths. This results in a two-step ramp that will easily clear the air dam, and raise the front of the car 4", which is adequate for oil/filter changes. There's virtually no cost, and they are easier to store than metal ramps.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    My father built some similar wood ramps when we had the 300M too. Used to just use a jack on one side of all vehicles, but one day he got a better idea before having to do the first oil change.

    On a similar note, we've never taken a car anywhere for an oil change. Do it yourself, and as long as you're not a complete idiot, you'll have a much greater chance of not doing any damage. That, and you know what kind of filter and oil you've used.
  • beespecialbeespecial Member Posts: 69
    I see carpentry in my future. Now that you've jump-started my imagination I've got some ideas for modifying my ramps. I have a spare 2x12 that will work very well.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    I bought the black Rhino ramps when I had my 300M. They are not as steep as the metal ramps. 300M could not clear metal ones but the Rhino ramps worked very well. They are made of some kind of ruberrized plastic.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    I have changed my own oil every 5,000 miles on my 99 300M. I also use the Rhino Ramps (about $40 at Auto Zone) - they are longer and have a lower approach angle than regular steel ramps allowing the fascia to clear (but not by much) the ramp. If the fascia touchs the Rhino Ramp slightly, don't worry, the fascia has some "give" in it.

    I use Mobil1 synthetic and Mobil1 filter - not cheap but since I do the labor, I want the best. I now stuff a rag up around the filter and loosen it and let the oil run down the rag into the drain pan. I used to punch holes in the filter and drain it before I unscrewed it, but the rag trick works as well and faster. If you don't do this, the oil draining from the filter when you unscrew it runs onto the brakes lines (I think they are the brake lines) positioned below the filter and travels rearward resulting in a messy cleanup. I can now change the oil in 15 minutes. By the way, Griot's Garage sells a pliers type oil filter removal tool that works well to remove the filter which is difficult to get to.
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