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Chrysler 300M



  • ruskiruski Posts: 1,566
    that 285 could be a typo.
  • I got that Chrysler news mag in the mail. Had a brief right up on the special. Said it did have HID lights, Said the HP was 255, no torque figure though. Said it also pulls .91G's! on the skidpad. Claims it's a better number the a Covette. Says it's lowerd a 1/2 inch too. Has a picture of it also in siver with netural grey ground effects. Doesn't look that bad, but still wonder WHY they didn't just paint them the same color of the car.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    I used a Magnaflow 12258 as my front collector, and a Dynomax 17739 as my rear muffler in the Hujo design. No reason why you can't use another brand and muffler if its the right size. Here are some pictures of my dual install including a diagram.

    The guy that did my system told me that if I wanted the system to be nearly as quiet as stock it would be easy to put one more small high-flow muffler between the front collector and rear muffler. Personally, I like a little growl. I rented a stock M last week and I missed the performance of Big Red, including my exhaust growl.

  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    Yep -- that rubber hose from the engine to the air intake plenum is the make up hose and sucks air.

    The emissions return system is separate and has a metal tube beginning at around the same part of the engine to the back passenger side of the engine where a big valve is, and it has a metal tube that gets split and then goes into the bottom of the intake manifold on either side of the TB.

    The rubber hose is to make up for airflow when the PCV valve stops doing whatever it does. The PCV stuff returns emissions to be burned as well, but it seems to be separate from the emissions stuff described above. The Service Manual doesn't say much about where the PCV hoses go.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Any idea what happens if that hose is blocked or removed?
  • eugenek --

    I have had considerable experience w/LH bodied autos -- a '93 Concorde, '94 LHS, and a '99 LHS (17" chrome wheels & Michelin Pilots). All three cars have been driven a total of well over 200K miles. All had front wheel vibrations at one time or another. It appears to be an LH design problem. Even my earlier '88 Merc 560SL had similar wheel vibrations.

    If your rim is bent, a good tire guy can verify the problem. If it is bent, you probably would have remembered hitting something which would do it. I wouldn't depend entirely on the dealer.

    You didn't indicate if the vibrations occurred when braking at 45+ mph or when just driving at that speed. I have had both and all of those kinds of vibrations since '93.

    The following items have alleviated, but not totally solved the vibrations (they do come back as the equipment wears) --

    Ensure that your front rotors are not warped; if they are, replace them and the pads; grinding rotors doesn't work for very long. Chrysler has had poor rotors and pads for years.

    Secondly, ensure that your wheels are properly balanced, preferably on a Hunter machine. If you rotate wheels (recommended), be sure to also balance the spare wheel.

    Have your suspension checked out by the guy who does Hunter alignment; if he is competent, he should check your springs/shocks and be able to get your system working correctly.

    According to my manual and dealer, the chrome wheels are a warranty item so long as you are not out of it and do not cost $700 each.

    When braking, be sure to avoid pumping the brakes as it can warp the rotors, particularly at higher speeds. The generated heat will mess them up. I find that, when possible, always brake with smooth, even pressure which keeps the system optimal. Sometimes, I actually can feel the vibration begin and then go away by modulating foot pressure when braking for a stop light, etc., as the rotors/pads settle in.
  • russklassrussklass Posts: 389
    From the 2002 300M brochure:
    HP 255
    Torque 257 lb-ft @3900 RPM
    Both figures when using premium fuel

    My comments on the "Special":
    Interior - I like the seats, carbon fibre nice, but not much of it , and no wood trim wheel.
    Skirts - Should be body color
    Headlights - nice!
    Duals - Our member's quad tips look better
    Engine - Why did they bother?
    Wheels - Look nice, wonder if those center caps will fit our wheels?
  • Hey, I've gotta question. Does anyone know EXACTLY where the ECU is located on the 300M? I've always heard it was in the passenger side kick panel on cars, well it isn't on the M. Before I ask the dealer (or tear my car apart) I thought I'd try to see if anyone here knows. The reason is I think I am going to try the ASE performance chip in my M and I need to send ASE the ECU. Has anyone else tried this????
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    I'll look at the Service Manual and see if it lists the cause of any problems as "blocked make up hose," but I don't recall seeing any such section.

    These may be informative:
  • I think it's the thing with the heat fins in the engine compartment on the right side near the power distrbtion box,(the box that has all the fuses) Good luck! Did they mention if what they do is reversiable? Personaly I wouldn't do it with the orginal unit. I'd buy one from Chrysler, then send that one to them.
  • They said they send back original socket for $30, which I was planning on. As far as reversible, yes but I'd have to pay for it. I am a little nervous about doing it and I still have not committed to it yet. But it will make HP at 276 and torque 281...without any other mods.

  • Careful! Last time we discussed the chip, those HP and Torque numbers were based on computer modeling, not dyno tests. It's your money, but I would want more substantiation before committing.

  • According to their website it looks as if it was dynotested. It shows a dynochart of results. You think it is all computer estimates? I didn't ask them if the numbers were real, I guess i'm just a trusting person.(could be a big mistake huh) Well, I think I would definitly do it if I lived in Calif., just because I would go to the showroom and ask a lot of questions. Now I'm having more second thoughts.
  • drpixeldrpixel Posts: 256
    Hello, about YOUR light show problems.....seems to be a problem showing up for a few of us here. Waiting for the seat rail (?..) part and body module you mentioned to come in to get both of these fixed. Seemed my seat was moving like everyone else here, and since I'm biggerer than the average bear, & my sensitive gluteous mamximuses felt the movement more--to me anyway. Did ALL the lights give you the light show--not only did the lights flash/flicker, but door locks went up and down and headlights flashed, too. Some here thought I hit the PANIC button, but did not. Was extremely weird...last time I saw a light show like this was the early 70's... :-o
    Sorry you folks had problems getting into the chatroom Wed nite....I had no problem getting on @10pm... Hope dustin's and his wife are doing's birthing day!

    There were about 10 of us in the chatroom..avalanche was there--seems his sister and my oldest daughter's boyfriend are in the same class about 6 degrees of separation!
    The Fed in its infinite wisdom will be letting us poor folk leave a llittle earlier today.....hope you all have a safe and pleasant Columbo Day weekend!

  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Its been a long while since I posted about this subject back when I was rotating my 5 wheels trying to find out if the "shimmy" we all talk about was a tire belt or what. Anyway for all the new M owners out there, take a few minutes and get out your spare, the owner's manual and the jack that goes with this car and get familiar with the locations of the jacking slots, and the machinations of the jack. This is not something you [or the SO] want to be fumbling with some night in the rain when you get a flat. The jacking areas are hard to locate in daylight and the jack itself is the "devil's device." Once in place it requires a whole lot of turns with the crappy handle just to go up an inch. Get familiar with it now, before you need to. Also, take the wrench and try loosening one of the wheel nuts and you will be surprised,I am sure, at how few turns it takes to get them off. And, how easy it is to turn them by hand once the wrench breaks the hold. They must have the largest thread rifling ever. Make sure you inspect the nuts for snugness before you drive away each and every time you have the tires rotated or balanced off the car. Do not trust the mechanic to have done it right and tight, because there is not much room for error before you are losing lug nuts and maybe the wheel. Putting the jack back together with the wrench is also worth a few tries so everything gets back into place the right way. That's all I had to say on the topic, but since we have a lot of new owners/visitors I thought it was worth saying.
  • Ok it's not a secret anymore. I am looking at getting another car. Leasing this time though. My financial, as well as everyday needs have changed since I bought the M. My M is a good car. Has been troble free for the most part. Most of the few problems have been minor(except the last one :). The car is a good car, & at the time was the best vaule out there. The service is what I have the most problems with. I also don't want to get stuck with a $30K car that after 5 years is only worth $5K. Seems that's what will happen with DC pushing the new MSRP's down. Can't belive I didn't get a very good deal in the first place, but now a 2002 stickers for less the what my 2000 did?? That alone will push the value of my M WAY down. I wasn't concered with such things before, but certin events change your thinking, & needs. That's life I guess. Anyway, Do you guys think it would be better to wait say till december to get a new car? By then we could be in a war, or already had it & won. The economy could be better, or worse. I can get a killer lease deal on a few cars now, but I also don't want to rush it. What do you guys think?
  • I agree with you 100%! I expressed my views on this in posts over the past 10 days, so I won't get started again.

    However, I will say this is very short-sighted of DC -- trading short-term sales increases for degredation of their flagship car...however, they probably rationalize this by the planned phase-out of the LH cars, anyway... ):
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    If you're willing to buy an '01 of your favorite car, make sure you wait until the '02 is released so you can get a "left over" for a lot cheaper. Some companies are already offering incentives on the '02 models, but I suspect more will be coming down the pike unless the govt's economic recovery package takes shape and actually helps.
  • splattsplatt Posts: 328
    Don't ever use the jacks that come with cars - they are terrible!!!

    I got a pneumatic jack from K-Mart some time ago (just pass it from car to car ;) for like $25. It's great - I swapped my tires once (spare to left rear, left rear to front rear, front rear to spare) and it took all of 20 min total. However, I lost the plastic screw thing that keeps the cover on the spare down...

    anyone know where I can get another?? ;)

    Although I have to say, that the costco near me is great. They'd do this for free (tire rotations are $16 - unless you buy them there and they are free). They also have a torque wrench and a chart for the wheels. I've watched them, they torque it by hand which I like...
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