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Chrysler 300M

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  • topcuttopcut Posts: 54
    They also make dustless pads......
  • topcuttopcut Posts: 54
    My M is a 2002....and never get brake dust...wonder what the difference is ????/
  • I think I read somewhere that The Avalanche truck was referred to as the "Tupperware" truck because of the high plastic content.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    The Geo Tracker and Metro were Suzuki's. The Geo Prism was a Toyota. The Geo Storm was an Isuzu.


    The Buick Rendezvous is easily one of the best built, most comfortable and reliable cars I have ever owned. I've got 25K miles on mine and love it. Oh yeah, Buick dealers blow away the competition when it comes to courteous and competent service, both in the showroom and at the service department.


    I'm still loving "my" '02 Concorde Limited. The stereo sounds much better now that the speakers are broken in. I will continue to tolerate a couple of interior rattles and worn weather stripping (already?!) until my 6000 mile oil change. I ground one of the wheels against a curb last month and the "chrome" held up just fine.

  • Just for the record, from Edmunds own data: Avalanche= 0-60 8.9 sec, 1/4 mile @ 16.7 83.8MPH,
    13 city 17 highway mpg, 5678 Lbs curb weight.
    300M = 0-60 7.9 sec, 1/4 mile @ 15.8 88.1MPH, 18 city 27 highway mpg, 3567 Lbs curb weight. Lets see, slower, uses more fuel,(to haul around 2111 more pounds)but quieter? Which one would you rather use to carry 4-5 passengers? Does the Sierra Club know about your Mom?
  • The most recent fuel economy ratings put the Chevy Silverado and Avalanche in the top 10 lowest mileage vehicles on the road. In fact, if I recall they were like in positions 3 and 5 with the Lambo Murcielago (sp) as the lowest at 10mpg. the GM's were like 11 or 12. The Dodge RAM P/U wasn't on that list. GM = Generic Motors. Or if you look at the demographics GM = Geriatic Motors.
  • My 5* (Dodge dealer now) took longer than estimated, but I got my car back about 3 pm. The starter motor was replaced. I appreciated them getting my car done quickly so I could complete my Christmas errands. I left my Service Advisor a nice bottle of French merlot as a reward. The tow truck and repair were covered under warranty.

    Happy holiday to all!

    Silver
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    I have pictures of all three Alpine changes. At the webshots and Fotki websites, Fotki is under construction but is usually better. Soon I hope to have the forth generation pictues, with my new ductwork comes in. I will be (trying) to place the alpine monitor where the clock is now located. The clock will move to the bottom cubby hole and be surrounded by guages. I got a 99 LHS clock/vent bezel ( the one with the wings in the camel color to match the dash. I will use it if the monitor will not fit as prevously stated.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    I'll say no more, and hope this is all done. You like your M's. We hated ours and our glad to be rid of it, and the Avalanche (or big tupperware box...) is amazing. Done. End of story.


    Hey, on another thought, what made you trade the CL-S for the 300M? Notice any big differences like power or noise? What options and colors did you get with the M?

  • topcuttopcut Posts: 54
    Nothing really made me trade the CL for M....I trade pretty often....fortunatly I am now in a financial position to trade when I want....(took many years):)....To back track a bit,,,in 97 I had too Pontiac Firebirds.....Traded the last Firebird( which is the car that really turned me off of GM) for a Toyota Solara, which was a nice car,,,Got the urge and at 14K traded for the CL-S...and at about the same mileage traded for the M...I never had a bit of trouble with either the CL or the Solara....I felt like the CL was rather small and the looks never really turned me on..The CL was fast and smooth,,the tranny was like silk,rode about the same as the M,,firm but not bone jarring....about the same noise level on both cars.actually the CL had a little bit more wind noise than the M...Rode noise is about the same on both and both are good long distance cars...Fuel mileage was better on the CL,,but you had to burn Premium fuel..The M takes regular ,,as you know...
    The Solara rode better than both of them...had a softer ride, but also more body role on cornering..and not that I corner hard...I prefer the M and CL ride,,,has the best of both worlds..
    My M is Steal Blue with Taupe interior..(looks gray to me)..has power sunroof, 6 disk changer, heated seats..Homelink and the sensor stuff..I think it has about every available option they offered...
    I am sorry you had so much trouble with your M..Maybe I just bought mine at a time when they were finally getting their act together..But I can honestly say it has so far performed flawlessly for me..The body is nice and snug(rattle and squeak free)..and the fit and finish is as good as the CL
    I am now getting the itch for a car with a Nav system in it, but Chryslers except for the new Pacifica, as I understand it will not be available till the 05 model change...Not sure I can wait that long.....The new Infiniti G-35 Coupe looks pretty nice...Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    You buy a new car every year or so?


    If you can afford to piss away thousands of dollars each year in depreciation and sales tax, why don't you step out of the $30K crowd and buy some real iron like the BMW 745i, Lexus LS430, or Mercedes E500?

  • I'm picking up my new 2003 Special tomorrow morning. Any advice on break - in period. My dealer says, "don't worry about it." I have traded in my 2000 PHP and that manual says go easy for the first 60 miles and suggests one can go up to 50 - 55 mph after that up to the 300 miles. I have a 1,200 mile trip on Friday and trying to decide how to handle this. I really don't have an option but to take it. Advice?
  • teddtedd Posts: 19
    Thanks guys for your input on the brake dust problem. Will look into brake shields and dustless pads for the front wheels. My back wheels look just fine.
  • Whats up with the weatherstrip on your car? I know some people have complained of "shrinking" weatherstrip, is that what you are talking about? I have had no issues with my 2000 LHS, only been back to dealer to get my license tags a week after purchase.
  • teddtedd Posts: 19
    I had about 400 miles on my new 2002 M-Special when I got a speeding ticket for going 85 in a 70 mph zone. Don't sweat the break-in time. I don't think it makes a difference today as it did on cars pass. (I may be wrong. Maybe I got a ticket for being wrong!!)
  • topcuttopcut Posts: 54
    Ever watch Motorweek on PBS on Sundays,,,,A fellow by the name of Goss who is supposed to be a crack mechanic says to vary your speeds for the first thousand miles regarless of what your dealer tells you......Your rings will seat better,,,the last thing you need is an oil burner......Vary the SPeed..makes sense to me
  • yep--vary the speed--and I would say up to 65 mph during the first couple hundred would be ok---but I also heard varying the speed will seat the rings properly

    brake shields to cut down on brake dust? I have read that those shields can lead to overheating rotors which could lead to warping---a little dust is better than warped rotors..get yourself some carbon metallic pads ---autozone sells a good quality pad called Performance Friction---only $35 per set---low dust, low noise , and good performance.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    The front of the door (the pointy part above the mirror where it meets the A pillar) is rubbing on the weatherstripping, and this abrasion has created a 2" tear. Not a big deal, but it needs to be fixed.


    I have also noticed that several body panels have uneven gaps, not only in width, but in height as well (as in: if your clothes drape over the sheetmetal, edges could snag you like a fish hook).

  • david, if i were you i would check w/your dealer to see what they recommend for the break-in. i'd also check the owner's manual to see if that has anything on it, and a call to the dc regional office would be worthwhile too, IMO. these guys are probably correct about varying speeds, but it may be you should also keeep it below 55 or 65...

    some people also like to change the oil more frequently during the first few hundred miles of ownership. the theory is that when the engine is new, more metal particles wear off of the many parts rubbing together, so by changing the oil more often when the car is new you get rid of those harmful particles.
  • drpixeldrpixel Posts: 256
    to donna1119: regarding light show: eMily is a 2000 bright Silver Metallic who has had recurring problems with the 'light show (with same described effects of flashing interior and exterior lights)'. Had one BCM (body control module) replaced. Wife drove car home from -5 star dealer to have:
    1. Gas gauge read empty
    seats move all the wayt UP to steering wheel
    milage read 97,000
    flashing lights
    door locks going up AND down, etc...

    Back to dealer who replaced BCM a second time with BRAND NEW bcm (as opposed to factory re-conditoned?...). Problem seemed to go away, but came back. Next fix was multifunction light switch (auto-on/off, etc..) . THAT seemed to fix it, but noo-o-o-o-o-o-o-0...it reappeared AGAIN. At night, headlights--without key in ignition and doors locked--would flash ON THEIR OWN..(haunted house sounds heard here..)

    Took eMily now to DODGE dealer who is bending over backwards to find AND FIX problem. Part rdered for inside dash (another part of the light switch they tell me..). Awaiting delivery of part and installation. Wire2 on this board spoke with some 'people' he works with and a flakey CdS (some kind of sensor on dashboard that senses ambient light can/MAY cause this problem if it sends a WRONG signal to the BCM....whew....good luck and lemme know how YOUR 2000 fare's with this problem. Seems to be a prblem with 01's also....

    TO other things....just wanted to stop in to wish all my friends and fellow M'ers here on the edmunds board--and PAT too--a very Merry Christmas. To those of us who celebrate Channukah or Ramadon or another holiday, I wish to you all the PEace and Joy that these holidays bring to us. You know, it never mattered to mewhat color a person's skin is, for if we get cut we all bleed. The important thing herethat I always do is to remember what the real reason for the Christmas holiday. To ALL my old friends here, and the new ones I've yet to make a very Happy Holiday season from the Doc.

    Still searching for a job, but I remember that I was downsized, but not down and out. I know next year is going to be better and that I will once again be amongst the employed--and more importantly doing what I love to do....

    Take care my friends, and may the peace and joy of the holiday season be with you and your families,
    Doc/Glenn/drpixel and family
  • topcut5-
    "My M is a 2002...never get brake dust...wonder what the difference is???/"

    Perhaps your M is a standard, not a Special. The latter have different brakes due to their higher speed capabilities, etc.

    easyrider300m-
    Brake Shields do work fine. They are slotted forward to pull air in from the side of the wheels while keeping dust out. I had two Benz's -- an '83 300SD and an '88 560SEL. Before Shields, both blackened the front wheels and squealed excessively. After Shields, each were driven for well over 125K with no problems regarding heat damage to anything. That brake dust is greasy and cannot just be hosed off; it's a major undertaking to remove it. And it corrodes the wheels.

    Also, I thought that since tedd just bought a new car, he wasn't interested yet in removing and experimenting with the pads. I agree that a longer range fix is to get better pads, but that should be a manufacturer problem which CD probably will not fix since the German mind-set is different regarding autos and, particularly, squealing brakes. Just look at any Benz front wheels. And they still squeal.

    Benz, now in control at DC, has had a history of retreating from brake squeal problems by going to softer pads; i.e., more brake dust. We'll all be seeing more German influences into these new LX cars now that they've been able to get their fingers into the pie more. Not sure that the future looks that good. With my two Benz's, it cost about $300 for front pads and $800 for both front rotors and pads. That's one of the reasons I no longer drive Benz's any longer.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all!!

    (Thanks doc -- hang in there. 2002 hasn't been that great of a year for me either, and I'm ready to try on a new one!!)
  • and to ALL a good night.......
  • I had a local brake shop install new rotors all around and carbon metallic pads on the fronts and semi-metallic on the rears--I supplied the parts --total cost was $310 including parts and labor. And no squeals, little brake dust and great stopping performance. Such a deal!
  • psterpster Posts: 293
    I just put the Dunlop Sport A2's on my 1999 300M after 50,000 perfectly wonderful miles in the OEM 16 inch Michelin's. I am in Altlanta having just driven here from St. Louis in the rain. The A2's have much better wet capabilities than the Michelins, but have a harsger ride in my opinion. The Michelin XGT's were the best tire for this car but they are pricey and have to be special ordered. Beware the Dunlops - the dealers are gouging the prices up as the tire was highly rated by Consumers Report.
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 2,683
    Greetings: I just wanted to wish Happy Holidays to everyone here. I hope that if all is well with you and yours that that state continues indefinitely! For those in need, I hope that 2003 brings you what you need. And more, for all of us decent folks.

    Fastdriver: Hit you know where on Monday. The place was empty! I found a minimum stakes, no smoking table and doubled my meager allotment in about 45 minutes. And walked away! I must be maturing...

    '99 Platinum M continues to be okey-dokey. I've experienced the "light show" a couple of times and fiddling with the lighting rheostat solved it. To this point, at least.

    Happy Holidays and here's to a significantly safer, more peaceful, more prosperous and fulfilling 2003.

    '13 Jaguar XF, '11 BMW 535xi, '02 Lexus RX300

  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    drpixel-

    Happy holidays to you too. Hope the new year brings better and bigger things for you and yours.

    Sorry to hear about the ghostly happenings with eMily! Sounds like Christine resurrected! ;-))

    laurasdada-

    I hear you. Almost stopped today on the way home from RI, but the lousy weather made me think twice. Might take a quick run before the new year. Stay safe.

    To all-

    Wishing everyone a happy, safe and healthy holiday no matter what religion you are. Let's hope that 2003 puts a bigger dent in terrorism and an end to hate.

    fastdriver
  • Drove my 1 month old '03 Special in some significant snow yesterday here in Indy. These 18" Michelin Pilots just can't do snow! Period!I would have had more grip with baloney skins. Been searching the tire maker websites for alternatives for the winter and I can't find any winter or all-season tires to fit these rims. I know I can't be the first one to have this problem. Will I have to buy different rims also just for the winter? Any suggestions from anyone? PLEASE?
  • wire2wire2 Posts: 188
    Try www.tirerack.com , their ad in Road & Track (January 2003)lists Michelin Pilot Alpin in 245/45 VR-18 for $179 ea.
  • rstilprstilp Posts: 105
    Doc; Good to hear from you. Read an article about job hunting that states " good time is right after new years due to mgmt. not firing people during the holidays". SO, hit it hard after the 1st. Good luck!!

    beespecial; TireRack is the answer as stated previously. We just got 10" of snow in South Bend and my Yokohama YK420s don't do too well either. Although they are better than the Goodyears that were on originally. I think I need to experiment with tire pressures.
    Rick/Geezer300M
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