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Chrysler 300M

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  • Not totaly true. The 6 speed version coming out in November has a Brembo brake upgrade. Also dealer service sucks just like any other.

    "Regarding TL, the new '04 uses basically the same brakes as the old model. These were class-trailing brakes that were not rated highly by Car and Driver. The 300M had class leading braking performance, both in stopping power and in pedal feel. There are quite a few things I like about the 'M better than the TL, including hydroformed engine cradle for better stiffness and ride, better style and room, cheaper initial price w/rebates, etc. That said, of course Acura has some strengths of its own,the biggest being the dealer experience I would think"
  • I would think that would be hard & expensive. That's a good wish list! However reality sets in, & tells us the 300M was not meant for a performance sedan from the get go.(even if the hype was) The aftermarket views it as a big HW cruiser for old people, nothing more. Now it's killed so any aftermarket support will also. Most of the good 300M mods are home made jobs with instructions, & info passed along to others.
  • Does anyone have ideas on how long one should wait before changing parts that definitely have a limited shelf life as part of a preventative maintenance schedule? By that I mean changing them after a reasonable amount of time before they go bad. Don't know if others would be interested in this, but I'll throw it out there and see. I'll include my guesses, but I doubt if I'm accurate. If anyones interested please feel free to add additional parts to the list and your own ideas for maintenance. I think the part on the 'M are quite high quality and tend to last a long time based on what I gather on this board, or else they fail before 70K on a lemon like that of Pster.

    1) Alternator (5 years or 100K miles?)

    2) generator (5 years or 100K miles?)

    3) battery (5 years or 100K miles?) (mine will be 5 years in 4 months and the "green eye" is still bright green.

    4) fuel pump (6 years or 125K miles?)

    5) struts (7 years or 150K miles?)

    6) wheel hub bearings (6 years or 125K miles?)

    7) water pump (100K as part of change w/timing chain)

    8) spark plugs (I guess manufacurers recommendation of 100K is allright)

    9) shock absorbers (I have no idea w/these gas OEM shocks)

    10) O2 sensors (I have no idea; it depends on who you listen to. But I say they have significant corrosion after 7 years and should be replaced then if you want a fuel efficient and well tuned engine)
  • How is the Honda shopping going? I'm always interested to hear what a fellow enthusiast driver finds interesting in their shopping. Are you looking at the Acord in additon to the TL, and if so, the coupe? The old coupes were nice for big people in that they had a ton of leg room, more than the sedans. I hope Honda follows that trend as I appreciate the leg room and the Accord will always be one car on my shopping list whenever I buy.
  • I now have 116,000 miles on my M. It will be 5 yo in Dec. The only "preventative" work on your list of ten that I have done is a tune-up (new plugs) at 100,000 miles. Not that it was running rough, just did it because that seems like a loooonnnnggg time for plugs.

    I did give into fear on one job not on your list. I had the serpentine belt replaced at 113,000 (if I remember correctly, the manual says 90,000). I'm starting to think about the battery and hoses next, since I've now handed my M down to my 16 yo daughter (lucky her). My employer finally gave in to my badgering to get me a company car. They said go pick out a Dodge Intrepid! I couldn't believe it. So, I got a loaded ES. Just picked it up yesterday. It's amazing how similar it is to the M. Looks like I got one of the last of the LH's and happy for it.
  • Indy, that's a happy ending to your life with the 'M. I can't believe you got 113K out of the same serpentine belt; I think that's a world record. Realize that the recommendation for the timing chain is about 100 or 105K, which is a substantial job, so you might want to consider that too. Tranny fluid change is recommended at 70K and not that expensive so think about that too as it might make it last longer. Enjoy the new Intrepid. They are my favorite domestic sedan, under 30K, other than the 'M.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    chryslerjihad1 - yopu cant turn the tire pressure console off. Te system will always look for the signal from the wheels . So you can ignore the overhead or put sensors in your new rims.

    bluesky999 - just to let you know ,my 94 LH still has the original alt, starter , fuel pump,wheel bearings and O2 sensors .Now I have changed one battery , one water pump ,6 spark plugs and will have to change my rear stuts soon. The left rear one is leaking . Not bad for a 10 model year old car EH.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    Well, it's been a week now since I've had it in. I have to say I'm considering putting the stock unit back in. I could almost swear that I've lost power! I've hit her a few times recently and it seems like she just bogs and makes a lot of intake noise.

    I admit, I still haven't unplugged the battery to reset the computer. I don't feel like having to reset all my presets and I was hoping the computer would just adapt.

    Anybody out there with aftermarket intakes have similar experiences or any advice to offer up? If the general concensus is to "reset" the computer, I guess that's what I'll do, but I'll wait to see what the rest of you have to say first.

    I noticed that the small rubber breather tube that connects to the side of the intake is squished a little (not completely constricted) at the bend, but I imagine that has very little to do with it. What do you guys think?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Jeff- what did the guys think of the signs?
  • Ok thanks I get it. Here I go again - Auburn Hills?? Aside from sound quality on CD's, radio stations same but are scratchy. Dealer tryed switching to old style with equalizer - connections no match, think he must have already known that. Said he'd talk to rep this week about my problem - rep was a now show - but said his conversation w/rep previous - was what am I suppose to do. In looking at my old paperwork on 99 I realized I had the 11 Infinity not 7 that I originally thought. Now 2004 has 9 - dealer said there is no place to install the other 2 - change in design. Going in next Tues. said they would switch out my stero from a new car - maybe at least clear up the static. Think they've decided this is their last round w/me on this issue. We'll see. Just was in for hood latch recall - also thumping in front end - tire separation on 1,600 mi - Michelin. Of course I had to go to a tire dealer - not a dealer problem. Was a hassle getting a free replacement from tire dealer. Gear shift also seems loose - clicks in/out - they say it's fine but does not feel like my 99 did. I spend so much time at the dealers these days - I think they should start sending me a paycheck.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    I'm not sure what you're talking about, but I have a factory head unit that came with my 11-speaker system in my '02 Special. It's the cassette deck with the 3-band equalizer and CD changer controls. It's also Sirius satellite radio ready.

    Let me know if you're interested in purchasing it from me. Or are you saying that you DON'T need the 11-speaker compatible unit? I replaced it with the RB1 Navigation unit and have no use for it now. It's less than a year old and in virtually brand new condition. I rarely ever touched it except to turn it on and off. Gotta LOVE those excellent steering wheel mounted controls!
  • There was no change in design for the speakers. They originally claimed 11 speakers, but 2 of them has integrated tweeters (or some such thing) and so they had to change the description to 9 speakers, as 2 of them were really not separate speakers.

    Similarly, the standard 9 speaker system became a 7 speaker system...

    The dealer should have known this...
  • How can I get my old nickname "Ruski" associated with my new login that's based on my e-mail address?
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    The intake and the exhaust work as a team. It is like hooking up a 2" water hose to your outside faucet, and having washers with only 1" openings at both ends. If you remove the 1" washer by the faucet you will not improve the flow of water, until you remove the last 1" washer.
    As for the relearn. Disconnecting the fuse will have the ECM start with the orginal factory setting. If you don't do it, it will start relearning from the current settings. If you have makde numerous changes to the car I leanve mine alone. If it is the first one it makes hardly no differance. www.allpar.com has a quick learn setup.
    I usually suggest only using the K&N stock replacement filter for those not planning on redoing the exhaust system. The weakest link sets the quality of the chain. The same goes for cars.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Try checking out the auction web sites, you can usually get the service manuals there for about 65 or 80 percent off the dealers one. Just get the Chrysler one if possible they are better then the non OEM ones. I am almost ready to buy another one I have simply worn mine out. After making over 100 (85 different ones some I have done more then once) changes to my M they do come in handy.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    I am surprized you didn't go with a Special and pay the small differance??? Just a way to ensure that you can catch your daughter, if needed.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Mike the guys loved them . Cosmo( you remember Cos right) liked his so much he went out and bought himself a 99 slate M just so he could hang both his signs up in the garage.
  • blowbyublowbyu Posts: 26
    Just had one this afternoon coming back from lunch. Some guy ran a stop sign and plowed into my driver side door. All I can say is thank God for those door beams, otherwise they'd be preping me tonight for the funeral. You can see the beam runs just behind the CHRYSLER logo on the door.

    Front quarterpanel, and driver side doors doors all damaged. The fake leather panel below the steering wheel is all crunched up and the driver window blew out. The car spun into a pole and hit the rear passenger quarterpanel(not badly though). Looked like tranny was leaking also.

    My passenger and I are a bit bruised, but I don't think (Hope) anything more than that.
     
    Anyway, I have a couple of questions. Is the 300M a uni-body construction? If so, how can I tell if the frame is bent and if it should be totaled?

    I want my car back, but if its not going to ride the same, I'd rather it be totaled.
  • I know now that I could have replaced the speed sensors myself. At the time I would have had to go to the dealer anyway to get the sensors. I asked them about the high price for labor. I was told they used the "book rate" which called for three hours!!! to replace the sensors. I am considering buying the two sensors and keeping them in the trunk "just in case". They also tried to sell me a "transmission power flush" job at $119.00. I said no way!

    To Bluesky999: On the '93 Concorde I never replaced the alternator or struts while I had it. I did replace the timing belt myself when the tensioning pulley failed at 163,000 (I had replaced just the belt earlier at 135,000, that belt still looked like new!). The tensioning pulley is an idler wheel held against the timing belt by a spring. The bearing inside the wheel failed. I had to pick small ball bearings out of the timing belt area. I replaced the water pump at the same time. When the bearing failed the engine kept running although it started heating up very fast (without tension the timing belt cannot run the water pump). The hardest part of the repair was getting the front pulley off the crankshaft. I think on the 300M I will replace the belt, water pump and tensioning pulley at the same time.

    To Blowbyu: Sorry to hear about your accident. I'm glad you were not badly hurt. To answer your question, yes, the 300M is a uni-body construction. Someone with accident repair knowledge will have to say whether it is bent.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    I'm so sorry to hear what happened. Glad you are nothing more than bruised, sounds like it could have been so much worse.

    Keep us posted...
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Yes, I remember Cos and Mario. Glad they liked them. I've still got about 10 left for next year. Am contemplating two new themes for next years sign: A Brampton Bullet or 300M 2Hot2Handle!! What do you think? If we can get the plant tour again I may order 30, otherwise maybe 20. Will have to see how things go.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    The Special's exhaust is pretty much good enough for me for now. Only thing I would do is add headers and get rid of one or two mufflers.

    As far as the airflow, I know how it all works, but throwing on a bigger exhaust without doing any internal work (more aggressive cams) can potentially do more harm than good, power-wise. It'll be good for highway blasts, but your low end torque will be in the toilet because of a lack of sufficient back pressure. I don't do enough freeway traveling to need that. You have to be careful when deciding on an exhaust system. Too often people want something that's loud, but it does nothing for performance.

    I would say that opening the intake but not changing the exhaust is not much different than adding a cat-back system and not adding headers or changing the intake; there should be some increase, but it won't be the full potential (mostly noise).

    Oh yeah. You said you've done 100 changes to your M. I'm interested to know what performance changes you've made. Mainly, I want to hear about your engine, transmission, suspension, and brakes upgrades.
  • blowbyublowbyu Posts: 26
    The guy at the body shop told me the pillars on the 300 are parts that can be replaced. Does anyone know if this is accurate? I thought the pillars were part of the unibody construction and essentially part of the frames strength?
  • You know I tried to get another M! But, the boss said "not a penny more", plus its part of the corporate political game. They're buying Intrepids for company cars right now, so that's what you get. Truly, I'm thrilled getting the Trep because it was no shoo-in to get anything. Its an ES (topline interior), dark slate gray leather, big stereo and spare, ABS, roof and chrome wheels on Metallic Graphite Pearl Coat. Beauty. I'll say again, it really feels like home because the interior is so similar and it drives much the same. You're right about not catching the M though....even though it has the 3.5, they've detuned it to 232hp to protect the SXT which gets M's 250hp version dropped in. The car does weight 100 lbs less than the M.

    Man, that new leather smells great!
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Most of the changes are at my personal site http://public.fotki.com/300M/ I haven't done the brakes yet (will go with drilled and slotted rotors). but most of the changes are there. The only thing you will not find is the latest front and rear side marker lights, new audio vidio (Alpine IVA-D900 instead of TME 790 motorized monitor, a Chrysler RB1 stereo/Nav unit that replaces my Alpine 857 head unit. The new system better intragrates my Navigation (now dual navI have an alpine 852A nav in the car too) with my other audio and vidio systems, especially my rear view camera.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Glad to hear you are OK. You can replace vehicles but not people.
  • Hello: I have a 2002 Chrysler 300M Pro-AM Edition and I would like to know a little about the suspension, are there any links that can introduce the suspension of this vehicle to me? Thanks.
  • Beautiful modifications to your vehicle. They are gorgeous, still haven't done any to my 02 300M but have a lot of ideas...if it's okay, I will write an e-mail. I would like to know a little more on the autostick gear selector. Thanks.
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