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Chevrolet Aveo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cap0250cap0250 Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 Chevrolet Aveo with 29k miles. I've noticed small areas on the hood that appear to be flaking off of the clear coat which makes the paint a different color. I found a new spot on the hatch door yesterday after I washed it. There are also places under the rear door where the paint is marred and chipped. I'm taking it to the Gm dealer tomorrow to file a formal complaint. This is my first chevy purchase and depending on what happens Ford might get me back.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,100
    cap0250,

    Since you are taking the vehicle to the dealership, please keep us updated on any information.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • dhart2dhart2 Posts: 7
    Our 2011 Aveo seems to be very hot after running in town...no warning lights or anything...just seems to have a "hot" smell, if that makes sense. The car is an Aveo hatchback 1LT with very low milage, as we have had it for a week. Do you folks on the forum think this is normal?

    If it is, can air filter modification or better than "factory installed plugs" help? Any opinion is much appreciated...thanks.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,892
    Not alarming... just the protective coatings burning off the new exhaust system. Perfectly normal and has happened on every new car I've owned or any time I've replaced exhaust system parts.

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  • astarastar Posts: 8
    Has the timing belt been replaced on this vehicle YET ? They now require that it be replaced BEFORE 60,000 miles or the warranty is voided if any damage to engine due to timing belt failure. Timing belt failre could result in needing a whole new engine. There is also a smaller belt which I would change them both out at once just to be safe. I would see if the catalytic converter may be clogged with dirt also which causes heat and exhaust to back-up in the engine and causes cylinders to misfire, plugs to burn up and coverter insides to melt.
    The car will act like it is running on just two cylinders if it is a clogged converter.
  • astarastar Posts: 8
    GMPP wrote to me that it is required maintenance to REPLACE my timimg belt BEFORE 60,ooo miles or my warranty would be void. At 59k miles I replaced (2) belts on the car, both were in bad shape, failure of the timing belt causes severe engine damage and often results in needing a new engine at your own expense if the 60k mile belt replacement was not done.
  • astarastar Posts: 8
    I got all the coolant flushed and two weeks later the plastic housing cracked anyway, so Firestone replaced the entire thermostat with a new one which has an aluminum housing, the cost for the new thermostat was 109 dollars, 25 to pressure test the system, 13 dollars for replacement coolant, and 66 dollars labor. The towing cost 45 dollars. I am very pleased that this is the only time I have had to have a tow since I purchased the car brand-new in Jan 2005.
  • Trust me on this one, 60K miles is when previous owners of the 2004 Chevy Aveo trade in their car in so they dont have to do this maintenance work. I bought mine with that same amount of mileage and did not know about the belt or if mine had been replaced. If your belt breaks, and it will be without warning-as you are crusing down the highway one day-your engine will be shot! The valves will bend and you will be advised that this is a "throw away car", that it is too costly to replace the engine-considering what the car is worth. I did get all this work done and I basically had to rebuild the engine. It was about a $1,500 repair done by people who cut me a better bargain than most would have charged. You can double the life of your car if you heed the warning and have that belt replaced before it does break. Rest assured that it will!
  • I recently visited our local GM service department after repeated acceleration vibration/noise pertaining to our 2011 Aveo...they could not find the problem and contacted Detroit...

    I should point out that it has not caused any performance problem at all...but it is "there" and it should not be. Our Aveo has 1500 miles.

    Our local GM service rep told us that Chevy Detroit says it is a common problem with the 2011 Aveo and they are working to find the cause...

    Has anyone experienced this? What would be suggested at this point? Thank you for any response.
  • I have exactly the same problem as you, except I didn't know about the timing belt issue when I bought it. It's a 2005 Chevy Aveo that had 66,000 miles when I purchased it, it's now 73,000 and I was recommended to replace it because there is no way to determine if it has been replaced without taking apart the engine. I also think that the previous owner didn't do it so I will need to do it... I didn't have any problems so far so hope if I replace the timing belt, I'll be fine... My question is : does anyone know how much does it cost? I have heard that it's better to replace the water pump at the same time. Also, if I need to replace the tensioner and air filter, how much would it be?
    My car's mileage is 30MPG (highway), but I guess it's not that great right? Is that true that if I replace the spark plugs and wires and the air filter I could get better mileage?
    Thanks all for your help!
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    If the water pump runs off the timing belt, you probably need that replaced too. Also check tensioners and idler pulleys. Good luck.
  • Dhart2,

    I looked into our database here and did not see any further information regarding this concern. If something is published, I will be sure to let you know.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • Just got my car smogged, but failed due to the check engine light not working (i'm hoping it's just a burnt out bulb)

    Any advice?

    If I do attempt to change the bulb myself, any guidance on getting the center dash out?

    Thanks everyone.
  • My 2005 Aveo has 94000 miles. I have a problem - help!
    Changed my battery, all was good for about 2 months then the car wouldn't start - dead battery. Changed the alternator and was gven a new battery, if this car sits over 24 hours the battery is dead. Alternator is good is good and I am lost???
  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Hi all,

    I have a 2005 Aveo that is idling rough, all the time. In park it's not bad but in Drive and Reverse it's real bad.

    I've replaced the intake air hose (going from air filter to throttle body?)
    and new spark plugs. But neither has resolved the issue.

    I also noticed after letting it run for 5 mins or so that alot of moisture is dripping out of the muffler, alot more than what's normal.

    Any advice is greatly needed.

    With the weekend coming I need to make a decision ASAP, try to fix myself or take it in.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,022
    You might have a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd check every vacuum line you can get your hands on. If you spray WD-40 around the hose fittings and the engine takes a stumble, then that means it sucked in the WD and you have a leak there.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Well it'd be hard to tell if it takes a stumble cause it runs so rough. :)

    Where are most of the vacuum located and or what do they look like?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,022
    Generally smaller or smallish tubing..smaller than heater hoses, except for the one going to the power brake--that's a fairly large diameter vacuum hose and one worth checking.

    You can also have an intake manifold vacuum leak, where the intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head. That seam is worth checking as well.

    you could also have a bad Idle Air control valve, which might be stuck and causing a very low idle speed. Can you read the idle speed with your tachometer, in park? What is it?

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    edited January 2012
    I was thinking the Idle Air control valve as well. All hoses looked good.

    Would a bad Idle Air control valve explain the rough idle in park but even rougher in drive and reverse? I've heard some with bad Idle Air control valves only having rough idle in drive, not all gears like I'm having.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,022
    Well if the idle speed is artifically low, then sure, it'll idle worse in drive than in park.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Okay, thanks.
  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Well, got the Idle Air control valve replaced, but problem persists. I'm out of ideas.

    One thing I noticed was the plunger on the old valve was covered in this black sute, is that normal?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,022
    edited January 2012
    Ah, that reminded me!! Has anyone checked the EGR valve and/or associated parts? Has the car been scanned for a trouble code related to the EGR system? Your symptoms do resemble this type of defect.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    edited January 2012
    No codes, tried to get a scanner thingy from my local Autozone but was informed they were illegal in California.

    I any event, took it to the mechanic yesterday, had no choice, I need to get it running, they wife is tired on me using her car. :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,022
    What do you mean "illegal"? :confuse:

    Well nothing wrong with trying your own repairs at first. Please let us know what the mechanic finds out.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    She said they were banned from being rented out in Cali, guess repair shops were complaining.

    EGR is about $150, meaning repair shop will probably charge me $200. Bummer, but what are you going to do.

    Thank you for your time, it's much appreciated. If I keep this car, I'm sure we'll cross paths again. :)
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