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Chevrolet Aveo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Well it'd be hard to tell if it takes a stumble cause it runs so rough. :)

    Where are most of the vacuum located and or what do they look like?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Generally smaller or smallish tubing..smaller than heater hoses, except for the one going to the power brake--that's a fairly large diameter vacuum hose and one worth checking.

    You can also have an intake manifold vacuum leak, where the intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head. That seam is worth checking as well.

    you could also have a bad Idle Air control valve, which might be stuck and causing a very low idle speed. Can you read the idle speed with your tachometer, in park? What is it?

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    edited January 2012
    I was thinking the Idle Air control valve as well. All hoses looked good.

    Would a bad Idle Air control valve explain the rough idle in park but even rougher in drive and reverse? I've heard some with bad Idle Air control valves only having rough idle in drive, not all gears like I'm having.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well if the idle speed is artifically low, then sure, it'll idle worse in drive than in park.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Okay, thanks.
  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    Well, got the Idle Air control valve replaced, but problem persists. I'm out of ideas.

    One thing I noticed was the plunger on the old valve was covered in this black sute, is that normal?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    edited January 2012
    Ah, that reminded me!! Has anyone checked the EGR valve and/or associated parts? Has the car been scanned for a trouble code related to the EGR system? Your symptoms do resemble this type of defect.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    edited January 2012
    No codes, tried to get a scanner thingy from my local Autozone but was informed they were illegal in California.

    I any event, took it to the mechanic yesterday, had no choice, I need to get it running, they wife is tired on me using her car. :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    What do you mean "illegal"? :confuse:

    Well nothing wrong with trying your own repairs at first. Please let us know what the mechanic finds out.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    She said they were banned from being rented out in Cali, guess repair shops were complaining.

    EGR is about $150, meaning repair shop will probably charge me $200. Bummer, but what are you going to do.

    Thank you for your time, it's much appreciated. If I keep this car, I'm sure we'll cross paths again. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well they don't "rent" them, they usually do it for free.

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  • jcbuchejcbuche Posts: 11
    edited January 2012
    Talked to the repair shop.

    They're saying I have a misfire on cylinder one because of an oil leak from the valve cover gasket that is saturating the spark plugs.

    In all they want $650 to replace gaskets, new wires and ignition coil.

    This seems high to me, plus even with my limited knowledge of cars, I think I could do this in a day.

    Thoughts, warnings?

    Also, the car is still driveable, although the acceleration and idle is horrible, since it appears to be running off three cylinders, but what are your thoughts on driving it? I have a 90 mile round trip commute to work.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Oh you could do that yourself. You'll need a valve cover gasket, a spark plug cable set (try www.rockauto.com) for about $75, and you should at least look at the spark plugs.

    if you are indeed misfire off one cylinder, I wouldn't drive the car like that, no, as you may damage the catalytic converter.

    Possibly, you could get a can of electrical cleaner and clean off the plug wires and spark plugs, and maybe snug down the valve cover bolts and see if that helps.

    replacing the valve cover only requires that you remove a couple hoses and connectors and a few bolts. Shouldn't be too tough for you.

    MODERATOR

  • mikwmikw Posts: 1
    Yet another tale of this apparently common problem. I knew nothing of this problem until it happened to me. On January 30, 2012 when after leaving work, getting on Ike and running in heavy traffic, I accelerated to pass a car and soon noticed a plum of smoke behind me and my temp gadge was pinned in the red. I opened the hood and found water everywhere but had no idea where it came from until I bumped the radiator hose going to the thermostat wiggled. Cheap plastic parts. Only in a Chevy or should I say deawoo. South korean made. Can't really blame Chevy. But they should do the right thing and pay for the part if it breaks since chevy owns deawoo. $65 tow, $66 in parts( new metal housing from napa, hose and antifreez), on MasterCard. Having wished I purchased a ford, Priceless.
  • I have a 2011 Chevy Aveo that is a 4dr hatchback it has less that 24k miles on it. I took it in because the front end rattled. One dealership changed the wheel bearings and said that I would have to get use to the popping noise that it now makes. They treated me like I was stupid and they lied to me about my car having new tires on it. When I said something to the salesman about him lying to me about it he said that he was mistaken. I have called the GM customer assistance office and obviously they played the part of concerned represinatives but nothing has been done yet. I took my to another dealership and they have changed the lower control arms, the shocks, strutts, and coils. They are having to get an engineer to come down because they don't know why the car is still making a popping noise in the fron end. My question is this should the front end already need this much work done to it ? My warranty goes out in less that 12k miles and I am affraid that I will Still owe a lot on the car and have a bunch of problems out of it.
  • My 2005 Aveo crapped out on me while doing 70 on the highway!!! $1400 later life sucks. I bought the car to drive from Phoenix to Omaha, which I've done several times to see my grandgirls...and now I'd be too scared to make the trek in this piece of crap car. : (
  • The issue with the thermostat IS a MAJOR problem with the Aveos and just because YOU don't see it often on this site doesn't mean otherwise. Two mechanics at major shops here in Phoenix have seen and/or heard quite a bit about them. They can't understand why a recall hasn't taken place either. People don't know about this site is the only reason they're not complaining HERE. I am completely DONE WITH CHEVY as of 2 months ago, after having put $1400.00 into my 7 year old car AFTER the engine was fried. And others would be wise to do the same as CHEVY doesn't stand behind what they sell.
  • You've been warned.
  • lol...I'm not laughing AT you, but now you're just one of the idiots who bought a Chevy Aveo. Welcome to the club.
    There are likely other things wrong, but they'll simply turn up one and a time, randomly. SUCKS!
    Hopefully not, but start saving $$ for the repairs because you're relatively new engine probably just aged 20 years. Mine did.
  • My car's history is almost identical....I'm barely ahead of you. After the initial $300.00 repair when the thermostat blew on the highway, my car had the shakes and slow starts like it's gasping for fuel. Then one day (last Sunday) is flat out wouldn't start after several tries throughout the day!!
    It's been to the mechanic all week now and they're checking the headgasket as they found coolant inside my engine?! They tuned it up and found leaking O-rings....damage from the heat they said, just 2 weeks ago!! So, plan on having alot of engine problems now. Heat is not its friend. I hate Chevy now as I'm going broke. This shop is a SunDevil Auto, and there are several in the valley with good reputations. They're making money, sure, but they're also getting mad as they see me suffering.
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