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Chrysler 300M Care and Maintenance

245

Comments

  • Two weeks ago I took my 1999 300m into Discount Tire to have the wheels balanced and rotated and I learned a tidbit of information about our cars that I would like to pass on.

    Discount removed all the wheel weights and balanced my wheels the first time with tape weights.

    The tape weights did not balance very well so I took it back and asked them to use clip on weights and a dynamic balance which they did.

    My wife was driving the car on the freeway and told me she would hear a loud THUNK and the car would start vibrating which was the wheel weights flying off the rims.

    I took it back two more times to two Discount's with the same results.

    So I did a little research and found TSB 22-01-98 which discusses the proper wheel weights for our cars and called Discount to see if they had these weights, which they did not.

    BTW, The proper wheel weights for the 17" rims is called an LHS weight, it is used on LHS, 300M, Town & Country, PT Cruiser...

    So I called NTB, no weights, and then called a tire equipment wholesaler in town which told me to go to Sams Club.

    Believe it our not my Sams Club has a wonderful assortment of wheel weights for many cars and had the correct LHS weights for the 300m.

    You of course could take your car to the dealer for balancing but Sams is probably cheaper.

    Now my wife is happy and the car drives smooth again.

    Thanks

    BM12
  • Would someone please tell me where the floor jack jacking points are? Costco also has the right weights for our 300M's.
  • I just encountered this same problem with my 1999 300M tonight. I read the TSB, but was wondering if this is something that I can replace myself?
  • Sounds like the input and output sensor problem to me. Sensor parts cost between $15-20 each, plus labor to install. I have the numbers for parts if you need them. I have a 99 and keep a spare set in my glove box along with a diagram of where they go so the AAA guy will know. I had mine changed out as a preventive maintenance mesasure on my second tranny service around 65K miles.
  • How much have you paid for a 10000 mile service?
  • 10000 mile service?

    Sounds like a dealer-concocted service. A car should not need any type of service at 10,000 miles (assuming that oil changes have been made at recommended times)...
  • Did he mean 100,000 mile? Don't know on that one, but the big cost around then is the timing belt and water pump [once inside the housing, might as well change it too].
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    How do you replace the battery? I have a 2000 model with 57,000 on it. I thought I had better find out now how to get to the battery so I will be ready when the day arrives.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    Look in your service manuals.

    If you don't have a set after 57,000 miles, take it to the dealer, they'll take good care of you!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • The battery is located down in the right fender. You first remove the louvered plastic wheel house panel - good luck getting it off! The screw clips go flying all over when you try to wrestle it off from the rest of the plastic wheel house. Then remove the air cleaner housing by removing the intake hose from it and then pulling up on it then to the left of the car. Now disconnect the one exposed battery terminal. BE VERY CAREFUL, as I recall, all that you have access to is the Positive terminal. Disconnecting the positive terminal first is dangerous, you should always disconnect the negitive first but it isn't accesible until you slide the battery halfway out the right front wheel well. Then remove the battery hold down. NOW you can finally slide the battery aft thru the access hole in the wheel well. In order to slide the battery out, the front tires must be turned all the way to either the left or the right, sorry but I forget which way. Finally, disconnect the other battery terminal and remove it down and out of the wheel well.

    Install the new battery in reverse procedure. Good luck getting that louvered access panel back in place on the wheel house liner. Everytime you move it to line up the screw holes, 2 screw clips go flying somewhere!. If this whole thing sounds like a real chore, it certainly is.
  • darla2darla2 Posts: 1
    Any recommendations for servicing my '99? Its at 250,000 KM.
  • garyc04garyc04 Posts: 1
    Hi:
    I have a 99 Chrysler LHS. Had a temporary instance of "limp mode" yesterday, but it went away. I would like to change out the input and output sensors as a PM. Could you please share the part numbers and give a general idea as to location. Sounds like I should be able to do the R&R myself.

    Thanks
  • gdchappellgdchappell Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LHS. Just had a full brake job done (not at the dealer) and now stopping is an adventure. When you need the brakes the most it seems as if they turn into mush. Before the brake job, I had good braking... the only reason I had the brakes done is I detected a very small amount of scoring on a rear rotor. Other than that, the car would haul down quite nicely even with the scoring.

    Could the culprit be those after-market pads you are referring to?
    -David
  • my300mmy300m Posts: 6
    I've been reading allot about draining and filling with and without the benefit of the drain plugs and the different ways of draining which is all very informative. However, has anybody ever done a coolant flush? I'm going attempt a coolant change tomorrow on my 2000 300M but I would like to flush the system first before filling since I'm willing to bet has never been changed before.

    My idea of a flush would be be drain, fill up with tap water only, run engine, cool engine, drain and repeat a couple of times followed by a final fill with distilled water and coolant. I will only use tap water if I can gain access to the drain plugs, otherwise I'll use distilled water...or maybe use distilled water the last fill and drain before doing the final fill which I will use distilled water.

    I may be way off base, therefore, any insight would be appreciative.
  • Speed sensor is located inside the gas tank along with the fuel pump, pump assembly, and fuel filter it is all on unit. You have to get the unit from the 5* I had my mechanic do it and it cost me about $550. You can do it yourself but it's a REAL PAIN in the A**
  • mshermsher Posts: 5
    Just buy the brake pads good quality. It seems you have cheap pads which produce a lot of dust while braking.
  • mshermsher Posts: 5
    you can dowload Chrysler service manual for LH platform from http://www.comreg.ru/lh2manual.pdf
    you will find all the info there.
  • Has anyone heard of a way to remove scratches in the head light lenses?
  • WOW!
    I have a '99 w/ 116K miles...continue to spend $$ on the necessary maintenance and fixing of failed components.

    I have a leak in 2 of the high pressure lines from the trans....the dealer claimed it was a $400 fix....I think I'll live w/ the small leaks.

    The A/C compressor is howling....system failure must be on the way.

    My rear window does not operate...dealer says to count on $400 to fix that....

    The passsenger side auto lock actuator buzzes very loudly when locking the doors....my kids just give me the blank stare when they are riding in my vehicle.....I know what that are thinking but.....I think it's a keeper!

    :)
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