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Chrysler 300M Care and Maintenance

124

Comments

  • I have a 99 300m with 84k on it. I am new to the forum and while reading many messages, I was unfortunately shaking my head in agreement with many of your headaches already posted. In regards the speed sensor, I had to the same issue however mine was a little more expensive for the service charge.
    My recent stint is the car was misfiring the other day when I started it up before work. I drove in the driveway and the check engine light was blinking (which manual says is pulgs because it was blinking, not steady on). So last night I changed all since plugs with OE Champion plugs. When I started the car, it was doing the same, I looked under the hood and could see an Arch in the plug housing. So I had that replaced, it appeared to have a very minimal crack.
    Now, this morning on my way to work(and last night), the car seemed fine. Until I got to stop-an-go traffic and the car seems to misfire again once I am in DRIVE at a complete stop. Then I can accelerate again and its fine. When I parked my car this morning, sitting in park is no problem. I did read it could take 30-60 miles for the car's brain to re-level and adjust to the changes, is this the case?? Any one have any comments??? Thanks
  • jo12jo12 Posts: 1
    i am currently considering purchasing a 00 300M. i dont really know all that much about cars but i do know that i love the way the car looks and drives. i really love all of the awesome features and the sunroof. i also found a 00 300m for only $5500 asking. i am very sure this could be a $4500 deal. the only downside that i see is the car has 166,00 mi...... that is really alot of miles. i dont know whether this car is going to be more of a headache than a great car to drive. i notice that many of you are having trouble and youre only at 100k or less.... does this mean the major problems are fixed by now?? or are there more to come?? some one help me!!!
  • You shouldn't pay over $4000 to a dealer, $3000 to a private party for a 2000 300M with that many miles on it, and don't expect it to not have any problems. All cars have more problems the older they get and the more miles they have.
  • Lately my check engine has been coming on (not flashing). I bought a new gas cap, because it would seen that it would get loose then that is when the light came on. Recently now the light is coming on and sometimes when driving it feels that the car cuts out when stepping on the gas. I have revved the engine up to almost 4000 rpm before it cuts out when in park or neutral. The light usually stays on for a day or two then goes off. Does anyone have any ideas of what I could check or do to figure out the cause and fix it?
    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • did you ever find a answer to this as i am having the same problem

    ts
  • :mad: Hello, I am sorry that happened, usually there is miscommunication between the service bay personnel and the mechanic, however, the worker orders have comments attached to them so that each one is clear.
    Firstly, I would get the original copy of the service order if u don't already have it.
    Look it over to determine what was written, if u are happy that he/she listened well and wrote in your notes, then it is not your error.
    Secondly, if you have not already asked for a copy of the work order, try and get the copy. If you have had an oral discussion with them, then you may want to be a little discreet in trying to get a copy. This is to show proof of your request, not their recommendation.
    Thirdly, verify that $520.00 includes the 30000 mi. service and an itemization of all the services. Battery service and tire rotation is not too costly, especially when they're new.
    Finally, I would began my deduction from the list of itemization and start with a letter to the service manager to get a credit or refund, if you are not satisfied, work your way to the top, also mention in your letters that you are considering contacting ivestigative news or Micheal Moore (the movie SICKO) to have them put in his new movie.
    Hopefully all can be helpful.
  • Hello, here is a cost saving solution that will help.
    As soon as the check engine light comes on, take your car to the nearest auto parts store and ask to borrow a handheld diagnostic unit, get assistance, or purchase one. Auto Zones have been good with this assistance. Once the unit is plugged into the port, the unit will give the diagnostic code, then look the code up in handheld unit's manual or the parts store computer. You maybe able to replace a part yourself if it is not too major.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    I had a similar problem about 18 months ago (and thought I posted it somewhere in these 300M forums but cannot find it, perhaps it got archived?). I was also thrown thinking it was a gas cap as it would go away but it turned out to be something with an intermittent camshaft sensor requiring sensor replacement, one of my two under 36k mi warranty issues. If you do the free Autozone check it should point that out. I do not know what it cost since it was under warranty. I do recall once when it happened going down the freeway it dropped me out of cruise but the car ran fine.
  • Thanks

    I work for a car company and 1 of the guys had a device to pull the code for me it ended up being the cam shaft sensor went to the dealer picked one up installed in about hour been working since $57 and change

    ts
  • i have a 99 chrysler 300 m, it seems the only time my power steering is working is when i press the gas.. if i dont hit the gas, the steering is very tight and i have to use two hands and alot of muscle to turn steering wheel, this occurs when im driving or if i am in park what can this be...?
  • Hi I'm new to this forum and I'm not sure I'm posting in the correct spot, but here it goes. I love my 300M and it's been running great. Yesterday I pulled in the drive way and put it in park. Later when I went to drive it into the garage, the gear shift lever has a lot of play in it and floppy. I was shocked because I had no warning. It hasn't been hard to shift or anything. Has anyone an idea of what this may be or what caused it. Also is it expensive to have fixed?
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My son, soon to be 18, is driving a 2001 Taurus-loaded- which had its share of problems when we first got it (very used) but they seem to be ironed out. He could get maybe $4000 if he sells it.

    The girlfriend's parents have a 2001 300M w/ 45000 miles, and thats all I know about it. They will sell it to him for $10000. Don't know where he thinks he's getting the cash (he has a few thou put away)... but wondering if it's a good buy at any price. We wanted to wait until his first semester of college was done, about a year, and then if he did well, we'd help him to upgrade to a better car.

    I had a concorde in the 90's w/ a/c problems and I think a leaky head gasket or something that leaked oil on the top (not a lot). Had a Caravan after that for about 6 years, under 50k that also seemed to be losing it's a/c. I got rid of it when the extended warranty was running out.

    Chrysler had been notorious for a/c and trans problems (with the cars I had). How does the 300M stack up? Will it need new a/c soon (it is 7 years old-low miles or not)??

    Son looks for the "cool" factor, so something about this car must be hot....

    Thanks
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    I have a 04 with 45000 miles on it and have been very happy so far. Only one real warranty problem in the dash instruments that occured last summer just into the maxcare extended warranty we bought. I have heard of tranny problems however it seems to be more a Chrysler reputation from the 90s than anything recent. It's a gorgeous car my wife usually drives, but we still like the looks better than the boxy gangsta new models.
    As for price, I looked at our bank black book pricing and retail clean is $10300 and average 8200. That is the price off a dealer lot so personally 10K seems pretty high to me for that old of a vehicle from a private party which normally they could get in the 7-8k range. The good news is he should be able to trust them but bad news is how does he "deal" a lower price with them like you would a guy off the street. And of course you have the "what happens if something goes wrong a month later" factor....I sold my used chevy years ago to my brother and a month later the clutch went out. Luckily my brother knows stuff well enough to fix it himself but I still feel bad about it 20 years later, I had no clue there was anything wrong. For sure despite the trust I'd still have a mechanic check it out and try to feel out negotiating it for less.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    You hit my thoughts on the head regarding price and "what if". If he got 4000 for his car, he could buy it and leave me out of it (for 7-8000). I'm not ready to put more money out for him until he "proves" he will work hard in school next year.

    Your car is an '04 which makes it a bit newer to compare for problems.

    Thanks for the input!
  • shilkomshilkom Posts: 6
    I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M that has the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) Unit fan stuck on high no matter what is selected (Auto, Manual or OFF). It comes on high when I start the car and cannot be turned off. I check the associated fuses (OK) and looked for stuck relays, but there are none associated with the ATC. Any ideas? That seems to leave the two ATC sensors or the fan switch itself?
  • There is a blower motor power module located on the lower right side of the HVAC unit housing and is controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM). It could have failed on so the fan runs full speed whenever power is on. There is no relay on ATC equipped cars. (This is from the factory service manual) It sound like the power module may have to be replaced.
  • shilkomshilkom Posts: 6
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Mike Shilko
  • shilkomshilkom Posts: 6
    Can you be a little more specific on the location and how I might actually find the blower moter power module, size and what it looks like? Could I order and easily replace it myself?

    Thx,
    Mike Shilko
  • phaex11phaex11 Posts: 2
    Bought my 99 300M about a month ago. After I purchased it, I took it to the car wash and when they were done with it, the car wouldnt start. I took it back to the dealer who said it was a bad battery. They supposedly replaced the battery and it started up fine for the first month. I then took it back to the same car wash and got it washed again. After that, I took it on a 200 mile road trip. It ran fine. When I went to start it the next morning, the battery was dead again. I got it jumped and it ran fine. I drove about 75 miles to a Wal Mart to get the battery checked out. when I got there, I turned the car off and then tried to start it again. It started right up. I then tried it again and it started right up. I decided to forgo Wal Mart and continue my trip. I drove an additional 80 miles and parked at a hotel. When I returned to the car about an hour later, it wouldnt start. I then got a jump and drove it home. I parked it and will leave it parked until I figure out why the battery dies. I believe its either something getting wet when I take it to the car wash or something shorting when the car is driven on long trips. I really have no other idea at this point. I did notice that close to the end of the 200 mile trip that the engine didnt seem as strong as it did at the start of the trip. The car has 99,000 miles on it and the tranny seems fine. The only other issue with the car is that the midrange speakers need the cones reglued. Other than that, I believe the shocks on the trunk lid could be replaced. The car is in excellent shape and I really enjoy driving it. I hope the electrical issue is something simple to fix like just replacing the battery with a good new one and witnessing the store install it. Anyone else have this kind of issue?
  • crdivoffcrdivoff Posts: 4
    You need to check the generator (although it has a different name). Your new battery is probably not being recharged while you drive. Anyway, take it to a good repair shop. I have a 1999 300M with 219,000 miles on it and I love it. I replace shocks, struts, tires, timing belt, etc. to keep it in A-1 mechanical shape. Last week I replaced struts and shocks with the the "sport" or "special" structs and put new ball joints on it and it drives like it did when I bought it in 1999. With 99,000 miles on your car you should replace the shocks/struts and timing belt and probably the water pump. don't forget to change the transmission fluid and the transaxle grease.
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