Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions

11516171921

Comments

  • I have just purchased an '01 Chrysler 300m and I am having this same problem. I would like to know what the problem is (fuel injector etc.) For my car, the problem is ALL the time. No matter how long it sits or doesn't sit, it will turn over but will not stay on. Sometimes it will take 5 times to get it to stay on sometime only one, but the problem is there. I would like to know what to look at so I can try and fix this problem. I hope I'm not stuck with a :lemon: ! I've tried pumping the gas to get the injector going and not pumping it...I"m at a loss! And I don't have a lot of money to get the stupid thing fixed (having just bought it) so I would like to know the right direction to start looking
  • This happened to me with my 2003 300M last year sometime. As I recall, it was electronic (probably a sensor) and I had it repaired under warranty. Sorry, don't know what it cost.
  • A starter switch in the steering wheel base on these goes out and it is an easy repair. Ask the dealer for the part after reading the past posts. It has been a couple of years since I did this and dont remember the details but should be in this forum somewhere. Of course wait till it gets worse. Good Luck!
  • I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M. My wife and I loved the car until the transmission went out at 45000 miles. A variety of problems have occurred since that time. Here is the one that continues to puzzle me and my mechanic, who has looked the car over at least 3 times and cannot find the problem……and therefore he doesn’t know how to fix. I hope someone here can give me a solution or at least provide some insight.

    When cranking cold my car will not start immediately. It will try to crank for approx 3-5 seconds then it will fire up but run “rough” for another 3-5 seconds then smooth out and runs fine after that, good acceleration, etc. It always has a funny gas like smell from the exhaust when it does this as well. If I turn the car off and try to recrank it will fire up immediately….so it seems to be a cold start problem only. My mechanic of 25 plus years cannot figure out what is going on here. He has cleaned the injectors which he originally thought was the problem and checked everything else under the sun, fuel pressure, fuel pump, etc etc. all to no avail. He said whatever the problem it is not serious enough to trigger the “check engine light” so therefore the car’s computer is not sending out any codes. He said he could think of several things that it “might” be but they were all too expensive to be a “trial and error approach” to fixing the car. To date the car has never left me stranded although I am concerned this will eventually happen. It is quite embarrassing when in the parking lot and everyone is looking at you cause your motor is turning over for 5 seconds prior to finally firing up. I would be most appreciative if someone could give me an idea as to what is going on here. My car still only has 56000 miles on it and is paid for so I don’t want to start over with a new car for a while but my wife is adamant about getting this fixed. I don’t blame her. Can anyone help me?
  • bluesdudebluesdude Posts: 3
    Replaced the crank sensor 4 weeks ago and have had no further problems
  • ewleighewleigh Posts: 1
    I have just experienced the same problem with my 2000 M and am very worried at how expensive this is going to be. What were some of the problems you encountered with this. I have noticed that when I start slowing down my car shakes and the driver side tire is very unstable. This happened all within one week. I have already had so much repaired within the last month. Any help is much appreciated.
  • koryokoryo Posts: 1
    anyone know the socket size to take the axle nut off to replace the wheeele baring?
  • achase1achase1 Posts: 1
    How do you remove the headlights?
  • I'm new to the board...and have been finding some great info on replacing my cener speaker. Does anyone know what post #261 was referring to when he said he found "this illustrated 'how to' for replacing the center dash tweeter..."? Was there supposed to be a link in his post somewhere? I'd sure appreciate some guidance.
  • One of the arms of my dual beverage holder (2001 300M) broke off. The dealer quoted me $100 just for the part! It looks like an easy DIY fix, but I'm wondering if anyone has ideas of where to find an aftermarket or maybe salvage part for this?
  • je2788je2788 Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have been having a recurring problem with my 99 300M that the tires keep losing pressure (this happens on all 4 wheels and I have to add air several times a week). I have been told by several local tire places that it is because of the aluminum wheels - here in snow country, the salt on the roads get into the wheels and corrode them, causing the seal between the wheels and the tires to break causing leaks. And at $40 each time I need to have the tires taken off, wheels scrubbed down to remove the corrossion, and then the tires put back on, it's costing me a fortune.

    The guy at my local tire place of choice said that they get 6 to 10 cars a DAY with this problem. He was pretty adamant that car companies shouldn't be selling aluminum wheels in New England, but they do anyway.

    Apparently, Chrysler doesn't make a steel wheel for the 99 300M. And the after-market wheels are about $100 each (the cheapest price I've found was $84 each) which is *way* out of my price range.

    I'd like to pick up four steel wheels from the junkyard, but they won't be ones made for the 300M.

    The tire place says they can use virtually any steel wheel as long as it has a 5-by-4 lug configuration (5 lugs 4 inches apart), but I wondered if anyone here could save me some time and give me some pointers to other car models that would have compatible wheels that I'd be likely to be able to get at a bone yard? I'd actually prefer 16-inch wheels (it has 17-inch now but the tire place said 16 would work just fine too) because of the savings in gas mileage from the smaller tire.

    And no - I don't care that I'll be losing the fancy rims, or that the car won't be as attractive as it is now. I LOVE the look of my 300M as-is, but frankly having a safe and reliable vehicle is much more important to me than having a pretty vehicle, so I just want to get rid of these aluminum wheels and put on steel ones ASAP.

    So if anyone knows what other model's wheels might be compatible (or can point me in the direction of a web site that could tell me) I'd really appreciate it.

    Thanks,

    Jay
  • I just tried that w/my 99 300M AC which was somewhat weak & intermittent...IT WORKED!!!

    If you do not shut the AC off when you turn the car off...I think the doors/dampers stay in the same position they were in when the car shuts off...

    I do not hear them returning to a position, which I do when you shut off the AC w/the car still running.
    Do you have to manipulate the level..etc often or was one time good enough?

    Thanks
  • have you had anymore trouble? i replaced crank sensor a month ago, worked great for a month and just did it again. replaced it again to no avail, do know what to do next. any help would be great. thanks
  • did you have anymore problems with stalling. had mine replaced twice and is doing it again. cam sensor? dont know what to do next
  • Mine is doing it also-- worse lately. Wish someone would find the answer and let us know Thanks Roger
  • It's the fuel pump, I went through everything with my 99 300m. High speed stalls, it would always start up fine 30 minutes later. I changed crank, cam and o2 sensors. It was the fuel pump. Very intermittant at first, drove 1000 miles after the sensor change and thought I had fixed it. I was running it on empty to prepare to change the pump when it failed completely. No problems since the fuel pump was replaced, except of course the usual. tranny speed sensors, a/c evaporator, window regulator brackets, engine cooloing fan, starter motor, moon roof track, warped rotors, front wheel bearings, all in between 60,000 and 80,000 miles
  • kenrevkenrev Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 300M and I use automatic to turn on my headlights. Lately when I start the car at night the headlights go on but I have no dashlights. The only thing that is lit is the odometer and the clock. I can stop and start later and will have dash lights. I have switched the selector to manually turn on the headlights but still have no dash lights.
    Has anybody had this problem ?
  • Your experience is similar to mine with the windows, tranny sensor, electric fan, and now the fuel pump. Haven't had the starter yet. Moonroof okay. Brakes ok. Thanks for the reply. BTW the fuel pump is in the tank? what does that cost to replace? Roger/Nashville
  • duffer65duffer65 Posts: 5
    I have the opposite problem with my wheels--they keep gaining pressure. I have a 2003 300M and the Michelin MX4 Plus tires. I can set the pressure (cold) at 30-32 lbs in the garage and a few months later the tire sensors will start blinking at 45 lbs (confirmed by a tire pressure gauge). I stay within the speed limits and they will reach this pressure even under moderate fall temperatures. Has anyone every experienced this with this tire/wheel combo?
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,261
    Getting my first set of tires --- got 50K out of the michelins. Has anyone had issues with making sure the wheel balance weights are compatible with the rim profile. I see that chrysler has specially designated coated wheel weights for concordes and 300Ms and wonder if most tire shops have them or are even aware that they may be a specialty application. Are these weights really that unique or do most shops have coated weights that will fit. If cosmetics are the only issue, then I guess they could be installed on the inside of the wheel. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,261
    Searched this forum and found some info. Seems it is important -- some shops have the right weights and some don't. Local Sam's says they do so we'll see.
  • My 99 300M 90k miles has been dying while cruising for about 1 yr. Worse recently and once took several minutes to restart on a hot day.
    After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---.
    I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days.
    Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used.
    I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then
    I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes).
    Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws.
    I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack.
    The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank.
    Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull.
    Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly.
    Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube.
    Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc.
    This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
  • My 99 300M 90k miles has been dying while cruising for about 1 yr. Worse recently and once took several minutes to restart on a hot day.
    After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---.
    I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days.
    Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used.
    I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then
    I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes).
    Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws.
    I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack.
    The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank.
    Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull.
    Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly.
    Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube.
    Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc.
    This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
  • I have a 99 m and I think that i'm idling to low it kinda of had a Hiccup the other day like it wanted to die and it didn't but it almost did.
    I'm not sure if it idles lower than its supposed to or not. When its in gear and i'm stopped at a light it'll idle at 600rpm when its in park it'll idle at 800rpm. Is this normal?

    Has anyone had this happen before. Also when I idle the a/c fan will slow down but as soon as I start to drive it will blow harder. I'm at a lost and I don't want to take it to the dealer. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Sorry to report it stalled twice this AM -last time took 10 minutes to restart. Evidently the fuel pump replacement was not the answer.
    My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor?
    I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself? rogjack6112@comcast.net
  • Sorry to report it stalled twice this AM -last time took 10 minutes to restart. Evidently the fuel pump replacement was not the answer.
    My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor?
    I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself?
  • I bought the cam and crank sensors at Chrysler - $45 and $90. The mechanic at Chrysler said the cam fails more so I had Pep boys replace it for me -$88. The car stalled on the drive home so I put it up on ramps and changed the crank sensor-- very simple.
    Now I have replaced the fuel pump and both sensors -- hope it works. I will report back in a week or so.
    (BTW the crank sensor did have a tiny hole in the plastic covering about the AC plug.) Roger /Nashville
  • Followup report--- Stalling --must have been the crank sensor as it has not stalled in four hot days and 200 miles. (Remember it had a hole in the plastic covering). Hope this helps someone else with a stalling Concorde or 300M. Roger/Nashville
  • Your idle of 600 rpm in gear and 800 rpm in park is normal. I wouldn't worry about the fan speed unless you find the car is not maintaining the correct inside temperature.

    Any problems I have ever had with stalling or potential stalling with 4 300M's (my wife and I each have had 2) have been electronic. It always seems to be the sensors that fail.
  • All gages have failed : fuel, odometer, tachometer, Engine coolant temperature guage, Transmission Range Indicator, & Odometer/Trip Odometer
This discussion has been closed.