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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions

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  • ceikostceikost Posts: 30
    Occurs only on the first start of the day and then only for 2 to 3 seconds, after that every thing is norm. It's a valve train lube issue.
  • mthommthom Posts: 1
    I do NOT have a 300M yet, but that is the reason I'm posting this question. After looking
    at the above post I'm beginning to wonder if I really want a 300M. How reliable is this car ?
    It's a great looking vehicle and I do not want a 4-dr sedan like everyone else has. Would
    anyone recommend buying a used 2000 model with low mileage ? If so, what should I look
    for ?
    Thanks for your assistance...
  • I have a 99 300m and it shifts very hard. Sometimes making a clunking sound. It was in for service and they said it was a software update. It does'nt seem much better to me. Is there a TSB for this? How do you hanldle TSB's. Just go to the dealer and tell them about it? Or what?
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    ask those in the sedans msg board, most dont really check this one to often anymore, but yes, it is a reliable car. a couple have problems with the speed sensor but its very predictable when it'll happen if its going go, and when it does its an easy hour long fix at the dealer. if your under warrentee its no biggie...

    check any msg board for any vehicle and youll see just as many 'glitches' with each car. youd be amazed. check out bmw's its a hoot
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,030
    A list of a model's current TSBs can be found when using the Edmunds.com Maintenance Guide.


    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Posts: 338
    I have a 98 Intrepid and the same problem. Welcome to the downside of "cab forward". Best advice:

    1. Stay well back from big trucks you'd be surprised how much stuff the toss up off their tires even in nice weather.

    2. Invest in a nose mask for the front end. That's what finally cut down on the chipping for me. But you have to have it on religiously and clean under it frequently to keep from putting fine scratches in the finish.

    Ted
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Posts: 338
    When I first got my 98 Intrepid it acted up the first night I brought it home. Started running rough, and finally died and wouldn't restart.

    The dealer picked it up and the problem turned out to be that the harness connector between the engine and computer wasn't snapped together tight. It wasn't obvious visually, they squeezed the two halfs together and heard the snap of the latches engaging. I haven't had any problems since.

    Ted
  • gsweitzer....is your dash cracked on the side of the passenger's air bag???
  • phases78phases78 Posts: 471
    thats happend to several ppl
  • To phases 28: Car is garaged and rarely left in the sun. The dash is not leather, but a plastic leather look alike. My local dealer has seen three of these. Considering how long it took Chrysler to respond to the mini van rear latch defect, I would not expect them to ever step up and take responsibility for this manufacturing defect. Too bad they are so willing to lose future customers of their high end product...

    To Bamabell: Yes, the vertical dash crack is on the left side of the passenger side air bag
  • My 2000 M and I have shared this problem on and off since new.

    The biggest improvement came when I replaced the underwhelming Good Year LS's at 10000 miles. Went to Conti CH95's. Not perfect, but much better than the LS's.

    I have found that wheel balance is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL on this car. Even my new tires required a 1/2 ounce balance after just 5000 miles. As long as I stay on top of this.. all is well.

    Another issue for me has been brakes. I have the non-PHP version, and the stock pads just did not give me a very confident feeling. In addition, I started to notice brake induced vibration when braking from higher speeds. I have been experiencing with pads and rotor replacement, but am still not quite happy with the braking situation at 23000 miles. Will keep at it and post again if a breakthrough occurs.

    In spite of this, I truly love this car. It does so many things so well and looks so good doing them.
  • I'm new here. Haven't seen this particular symptom in the discussions I've read. It is an intermittant problem that the dealer can NOT duplicate(of course). Had the symptom the first week of ownership and intermittantly since then. Transmission rebuilt at 36,500mi. Still have symptom. Upon start up and gear selection of either D or R the transmission declines to engage. I have sat for as long as 45seconds waiting for it to engage(just to see how long it took) or i can rev the engind and it will engage. No driving problems however.
  • I havethe wheel vibration problem, now just won arbit on that. I have weird motor sounds coming from my controls for the heat and a/c, oh thats w/o the car even on. The door doesnt close properly, my seat moves whenever it feels like it.
    I started having problems with this car 10 months after I bought it. I'm now just past 2 year mark and still takingit in for warranty repairs. I wish I never bought it.
  • I have read some where in this site that there is a company that makes a clear plastic sheet that is applied on the forward pat of the hood.
    It should help.
  • jodarjodar Posts: 51
    I have a 300M that was purchased on 3/30/00.

    I, too, have experienced creaking noise that was suspension related. I had to take the car in eight times, over a period of six months to finally correct the problem. What was replaced were: rear strut striker caps, dampers, bushings and supports (twice). To this date, the problem has not reoccured (thankfully), as I had threatened to invoke the lemon law to get Chrysler to buy back my car.

    Referring back to the #1 posting, I also have noticed a C pillar noise. I think this has to do with build quality. When the car is experiencing cornering forces, it stresses the car frame to where the noise is heard..like when you walk on steps in an old house.

    Other than that, the car rocks. The 360w Infinity sound system, AC, heated seats, room and low financing deal on a less than dealer invoice price. For the $, its a great car. I would buy another one, provided I get the color I really want, with maybe a DVD navigation system ;) Actually, I'm looking towards the 300Hemi, if they ever build that one, the Crossfire, or Pacifica.
  • kleo22kleo22 Posts: 1
    I just recently test drove the 300 M Special last weekend, its a beauty both inside and out. The suspension was firm and the handling tight, I just wish there was more power under the hood. I'm not sure if it was possible or not but it would have been nice to see an eight cylinder under the hood. I wonder if there is any way to boost the power, maybe 50 horses !!!!
  • steve276steve276 Posts: 4
    my 2000M developed a crack in the dash at about 11000 miles along the left side of the passenger air bag area. The dealer said it looked like a knife cut but I know that isn't the case. It is a clean verticle slice and is growing. I see others have a similar problem. I think a similar crack may be starting on the right side of the airbad area.Is Chrysler doing anything to fix this?
  • steve276steve276 Posts: 4
    after returning to my 5*, Chrysler rep inspected my dash which had a split along the area of the passenger airbag. He said Chrysler would 'take care of it.' Parts have been ordered and I am looking for a happy ending to this problem.
  • hatemy300mhatemy300m Posts: 7
    TO ANY PROSPECTIVE 300M BUYER - DON'T DO IT
    AFTER 3 YRS (BOUGHT 1999 300M)THE EXPERIENCE HAS BEEN HORRIBLE - PWR WINDOW MOTOR BROKE, 2 MAJOR TRANSMISSION FAILURES, FUEL GAUGE SENSOR FAILURE, BRAKES NEED CONSTANT WORK (ROTOR SHIMMY / PAD REPLACEMENT)ETC AND CHRYSLER KNOWS ABOUT MANY OF THESE PROBLEMS AND YET THEY WON'T STAND UP AND DO A RECALL SO I AM STUCK WITH IT BEING OUTSIDE THE WARRANTY - NEVER AGAIN CHRYSLER - NEVER AGAIN GOODBYE 300M HELLO G35
  • melzian1melzian1 Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 300M with 32K miles and I recently noticed knocking sounds coming periodically from somewhere in the front end after: a) the car has warmed up and been driven for 1/2 hour or more; and b) the car is driven over some roads which contain numerous bumps or pot holes. These noises do not occur whenever I drive over large bumps or pot holes, and they appear to only occur after the car has been driven and thoroughly warmed up. They also appear to be coming from somewhere behind the engine, and beneath the dash board. Does anyone have a clue what may be going on, and how I may fix this very annoying problem?

    Since my vehicle is still under warranty, and it has been great otherwise, I would very much like to fix this annoying problem as soon as possible. Thanks for your help!
  • wbaborwbabor Posts: 2
    I have a weird problem..miles on call 15,000

    Sometimes when I make a hard left or right turn or a complete circle turn, the tires wobble and feel like you are riding on the sides of the tires...I have been to the dealer, and they have no clue..

    Tire pressure and tire wear are ok..and no vibration at any speeds.

    Does anyone have any info on this..

    wbabor

    wbabor
  • trolphtrolph Posts: 3
    Hi just joined this sight and finally figured out how to post a concern to share with my fellow 300m owners. I bought out a lease of a 2000 year model 300m with 29000km.
    I love this car and am glad to see a sight like this to look at possible problems to look for. Since I didn't see anything about the exhaust system here is what I just encountered with mine and I hope I can save some other people big money as I have.
    I was going to install chrome tail pipes on my muffler but the mechanic informed me that it would be a waste of money because I had 3 pin holes at the bottom of the muffler and it would need replacing very soon. I found out mufflers are covered under the 3 year/60000km warranty. So I told them to replace it. They got the car on the hoist and found 2 holes in the exhaust pipe coming from the engine. So that was needed to be replaced also.
    I saved $1200 job just because I wanted to enhance the look from behind with chrome. I probably would have never noticed the decay in the exhaust system until after my warranty was up if it was not for that.
    I recommend every one to get the exhaust system checked before your warranty runs out to avoid such a absurd extra cost that could have been prevented.
  • reybeastreybeast Posts: 35
    wbabor, I have the same problem you have. I have contributed the problem to how well my Michelin xgt-z4 tires bite the road, and the tires seem to skip when doing a tight turn or a circle like you said. The faster you take the turn the worse it is. It doesnt bother me since I have a ford truck that does the same thing. I think its just that the wheels get cocked to one side at an odd angle when you turn that sharp and the tires cant stay flat during the turn. I wouldnt worry about it, as long as your alignment is good and your tires wear evenly, drive it like you stole it!
  • rrmanrrman Posts: 21
    My 94 New Yorker developed a weird habit of dieing while commuting at 65-80 miles per hour, usually it would restart in nuetral while still coasting. A few times I had to pull off and wait. Finally it left me in a parking lot and got a tow. Problem: Crankshaft Position Sensor! Garage found it on problem code, but I never got a check engine light...Should of taken it in right away, but the dead car in traffic was a cheap thrill, randomness spicing it up. Call me crazy, my Concorde has 4 coats of Zaino Z2!
  • I know this is covered in a TSB, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem? If so, how much did it cost to repair (w/ or w/o warranty).
  • rbottosrbottos Posts: 3
    I would like to know if anyone has information on changing differential fluid in the 300M. With 8 dealers in Houston area, 2 say 15,000 miles, 3 say 30,000 miles and the rest aren't aware that the differential fluid needs to be changed. Price is $84.00!!. Owners manual states 100,000 miles. Any help is appreciated. I'm convinced to change it myself to see why dealers want to change at 15,000 miles.
    Thanks 2000 "M" 24,000 miles
  • mfeigesmfeiges Posts: 1
    In Oct 1999 I debated the purchase of the 300M or the Infiniti I30. My I30 now has 39K miles with absolutely no problems. I had owned many Chrysler products and every one was a never ending series of breakdowns. After reading some of the problems that have been posted on the 300M it appears I made the correct decision. Chysler just doesn't seem to get it!!!
  • this article is for"mfeiges". Well I guess you haven't seen the tsb's for your car... If I were you I wouldn't be tooting my horn too loud.. By the way, I own two new body style LH cars and haven't had a problem ( except for those crappy GOODYEAR tires).
  • sandlwsandlw Posts: 1
    melzian1, have dealer inspect rack and pinion. when they start to go they tend to clunk. it's located in the engine compartment low, behind dash
  • I have a 2000. I started to hear what I thought was the exhaust pipe rattling against the floor. Brought it to the dealer just before 36,000 miles. They replaced the front stabilizer struts - now OK. Could be the same thing.
This discussion has been closed.