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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    Sorry, but not sure how to link to a comment I made w/o replying to myself. Well, I just had my first very minor 300M bug and warranty fix (I hope it's fixed, car seems to be doing better). At 15,700 miles and 19 months old, on Monday it did not start - engine cranked but it twas flooded. We got it started doing the old hold the pedal to the floor trick just like carbs did for years, then lotsa white smoke and bad gas smells even after driving it around for a mile. It did not throw a code, I was suspicious of bad gas, however the wife had filled at a major chain sooooo....despite thinking it might be overkill I took it to our DC dealer.

    Wow, they got me in w/o an appt, had it done in 90 mins! Nothing showed on their scopes and it was running fine of course, so they put a TSB firmware upgrade into the main car computer TSB 18-042-03 for cold weather hard start and rough idle. I put in a full tank of top grade (BP/Amoco) gas and have driven it now for a day ... all seems fine, so will let the wife have "her" car back. The only thing that seems odd is we drove it all last winter with no problems, why a problem now when only 40 deg out, hmmm?

    Anyway, I'm not sure I really will hold this against the car: it was minor, maybe only a fluke, no real pains and excellent turn around at Adamson Motors (ah, tomorrow I head there for my first new tires on my 01 Gr Cherokee at 70,000 miles ... Michelin LTX M/S, this one WILL cost some bucks but I hope they are as good as all I read about them ... cannot complain getting that many miles on OEM GY Wranglers either, but I need more than 4/32s tread in Minnesota winter).
  • blorbblorb Posts: 2
    My heater stopped blowing hot air. this spring it did it for 1 day
    and it returned after I set heat to 90 then back down but that did
    not work this time. how do I do a diagnostics test or reset on the ATC
    temp gauge is fine any ideas to what problem could be.
    thanks blorb
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    I'll assume it blows air. You may be having a problem with your heater core. If it's simply taking a while before the air starts blowing, that's normal. I can't remember if it's true for the 99 Ms, but it won't start blowing any air until the engine warms up. That way you don't get hit with an Arctic blast when you turn on the heat. If that is the case, just set the highly effective seat warmer on High and enjoy until the air starts. ;)
  • blorbblorb Posts: 2
    It blows fine, but its cold and stays cold even when engine warms up.
    could it be thermostat? any way I can do a self diagnostics on atc?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    There's no self-test that I know of for the ATC. You may have a blockage to the heater core or it could be the valve to the core just not opening. You'll have to take it to the dealer and have them check it out.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    There is a self test. It's initiated by depressing some combination of the control switches, but I don't remember the details. Its covered in the service manual.
  • I have owned an '00 300M for two years now. The car has been great for 28,000 miles and now has 49,000. Several months ago it started to develop a hard starting condition. It fires right up when cold (sitting all night) or hot (a quick trip in and out of a store) but if it sat for two/three hours it might have taken a couple of cranks to turnover and at times would puff out a cloud of smoke. The mechanic performed a fuel pressure reading about two weeks ago, and said it showed low pressure and replaced the fuel pump. The problem has gotten worse with the new pump and now can sit out all day at work and give me the same fits after eight hours. It still starts right up hot or being started in the morning. The car runs great after it starts and has always started after a couple of cranks. Could I be having the same problems with the starter/ignition relay and switch problems like the '99 owner's had on page 7 of this forum? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • Do you know what might cause a musty odor in a 2001 300M? Like last night, I had the climate control 'off' for about 30 minutes while driving, then hit the 'Automatic' switch. I got a mild odor for 3-4 minutes, then it was fine. One night in the rain, I had the odor for a 30 mile drive. During the day, I almost never have it. Changed the air filter, made sure the a/c drip hose is clear. A friend told me to check the cabin filter, but I was told it didn't have one. A 1996 Caravan had a similar odor, it was a filter in the a/c system. Does the 300M have one of those?
  • mshermsher Posts: 5
    Most likely you have a problem with the negative wire of the battery. Try to clean up both connectors of the wire (on battery side and on ground side)
  • eden4eden4 Posts: 1
    I am working on a '99 300M with the exact same conditions. Replaced fuel pump, which helped the delayed start, but seemed to create the no start condition just as you describe. Have you found any solutions at this point?
  • I was just over to the 300/300C site and I found that they are having the same problems that the 300M's and have had. Cars pulling to the right, outside temp. indicator sticking, trans. problems and on and on. I have a 2000 300M I bought new and have had good luck with it so far. It now has 65,000 on it and everything is still working. The only problem it has had that I consider major (because of the repair cost) was the evaporator for the AC had to be replaced. That had to be done at an independent shop because the dealer never could find the problem, even when they put dye in the system.

    I had been toying with the idea of replacing the car but have given up on that since it has been a good auto.
  • I have never heard of a 300M that pulled to the right. However, I have had personal experience with two that pulled to the left...
  • I just bought a 99 300M last week and am noticing that sometimes the horn will work Via the Steering wheel or remote when locking the doors and such and sometime it won't. Right now it doesn't work more than it works.

    Is there a horn relay? for this or is it a short to the horn itsself? Anyone else experienced this? I thought the problem was contact in the steering wheel, but it's now not doing it when arming the door locks with the remote. I haven't set it to turn off the car horn chirp when arming the system either.

    If anyone could guide me, I'd appreciate it.

  • If you hold down the floor mix and both defrost at the same time it will go through a cycle and if there are any display error codes. hope this helps!
  • Hello, this is my first time posting and I decided to reply to yours because I too drive a 02 300M, a beauty, brought it with about 125 miles. First my engine light would stay on and even today it is still on. I have about 116k miles mostly highway. I have had the rotors repaired or replaced. This August in Ga I had the car serviced for about 2k, my AC was not working the two fan burned out, replaced wire on the fog light later replaced bulb. Had the timing belt replaced, AC charged, transmission cleaned. Drove the car to VA, the AC does work properly take it to the dealer and they tell me it was over charged, GA sent a refund. While the car is at the dealer in VA we (husband)them to check out the noise in the left front wheel. When you do a sharp or some time just a left turn there is a clicking noise. Okay, I am told that I need to replace the swag bar and bushlings. Then I need a front end alignment but not until I also replace the right swag bar and bushling. Okay. Big bucks. Drive the car the noise is still there. Take the car back get a company car for two days this is Nov now. I call thinking that they have fixed my car because I was told that it was the wheel bearings and I would only be charged half for the part and no labor. Well, the car was not fixed and something else was wrong with it, the suspensions need to be replace costing 700. I finally call the mananger over the manager and he drives the car and tell me to bring it back after the holidays and it will be fixed. I am telling him that I cannot have every part replaced at my expense because they do not know what is wrong with it. Oh, did I tell you this in between all of this, I was driving on the interstate doing about 70 or so had the car on cruise, felt a terrible jerk so I took the car out of cruise and drove about 8 more miles home and parked the car. No problem. About 4 hours later it was on the back of a tow truck
    because I went to start it about two hours later it started went to put it in drive and it slide through every gear. TRANSMISSION. Oh, yea I have replace 3 of the center pieces on the wheel at $20 each.
  • Please email me if that has solved your problem. I am experiencing a clicking whenever I make a left turn. I was told to replace my swag bars and bushings in September and now here it is Dec and they still have not guessed what is wrong. I was it was the wheel bearings after that it was the suspensions. I have talked to the manager over the manager and was told to bring it back after the holidays. I wonder if this is wearing my alignment out the one that was recommended after replacing the swag bars etc. I have 116k on my 02, brought it new and love it. Steel blue fully loaded, it is a show stopper.
  • Did you find out what the problem was? I am experiencing a clicking noise when making a left. I have had my swag bars, bushings replaced. Still the noise. A tech said it was the wheel bearings, so I told okay bring the car back and we will give you a car and you only have to pay half for the part and no labor cost, kept my car for two days, claims it is a supspension problem and they want another 700. I have spoken with the mananger over the manager and told him that I cannot afford to pay them for their guessing game. So, I am taking it back after the holidays. This has been going on since Sept. I drive a beautiful steel blue 02 300M, love the car. I have had the transmission replaced in between all of this.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    It sounds like your dealer is giving you the run around. If you're getting a clicking noise when turning, it seems like a CV (constant velocity) joint is going bad. It's a simple and not terribly expensive fix. I believe your dealer is just fleecing you for money.

    BTW, its sway bar, not swag bar. And sway bars are front and rear, not right or left. Maybe he said the right end-link on the sway bar?

    No offense intended at all, but you might want to have your husband to all the dealings with your service department because it doesn't seem like you're knowledgeable at all when it comes to cars. That puts you at a major disadvantage when dealing with a shady service department. Let's just hope your husband knows something about cars. There's lots of men out there that don't know squat about the workings of an automobile. :confuse: It's sad really. :sick:
  • My 2005 300M was doing the same thing. The dealership replaced the computer cluster and the problem went away. Chrysler gave the dealership a hard time, but they were successful in convencing the manufacturer of the problem.
This discussion has been closed.