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Hyundai Elantra Real World MPG 2012



  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    Now why can't manufacturers or the EPA provide this information? I mean, they MUST be collecting it as part of the testing, right? I could understand not putting it on the Monroney sticker (it's a little crowded as it is) but make the info available on or something. This way people could have an idea of how many MPG they might expect to lose if they choose to drive at, say, 70 MPH. Which, if it only cost me 3 MPG, I still would (I'd get run over if I tried to do slower than 65 on the interstate). Though I'd probably re-think the long sprints at 75-80...
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    We have a 2012 Sonata GLS that also has the 6-speed AT and the 2.4L I-4. The car gets 33 MPG at 80 and 37-38 at 65-70 which appears to be the sweet spot. As pointed out by prior posts, the car has to be in highest gear and the sooner the better for max MPG. Speed is the biggest factor in highway MPG. A/C does not effect the larger I-4 engine as much, due to the larger higher torgue engine. Smaller engine may be more impacted by A/C. City MPG is 22-24 MPG and is totally driven by stop & go and driver attention. We are amzxed that a 3000# car can get 33 MPG at 80 with A/C on and better if speed is set on 65 with cruise control. Elantra is MUCH better in city due to lower gross weight and smaller engine. Great to have a choice. Enjoy those Hyundais, even the domestic mfrs are generating small cars with 30-40 MPG and they always said they could not build and economic small car in the USA. Competition breeds more competition and better car choices. Companies that build crap are doomed to failure.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    It is an excellent article, so I'd encourage you to read it and study how they describe their various test methods.

    Well, when the USPS sees fit to deliver the August issue to me, I will read the article! :shades:
  • eweinereweiner Posts: 36
    edited June 2012
    All of this BS highway vs. city is useless information because it demonstrates nothing.

    What are you getting at the pump?

    To measure... put the pump on the lowest setting and when it clicks off dont top off. Do this over time and pose those results.

    I bought the car because it is was supposed to be high mileage (approaching 40). I dont see that at the pump.

    In six months of driving my MPG is 30ish and with summer heat the AC is sending that average downward.

    My driving during the week is highway and weekend local. I live in Maryland so I have equal amounts of ALL seasons.

    From my interactions with others... the high mileage goes to hyper-milers. F-that I drive normally. I dont gun it and I dont drive slowly so as to be unsafe.

    I am not going to drive like a granny and I should not have to do so to reach Hyundais ratings.
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    Ok, let's break it down: at what speeds are you driving when you see 30-ish MPGs? Not average, the full range and approximate times at each speed?

    DEFINITELY wish manufacturers would provide MPG@MPH data...and yes, I just named it, so what? :shades:
  • eweinereweiner Posts: 36
    edited June 2012
    You're not getting it. I dont care about point in time MPG. I measure at the pump as in what I am achieving at each fill up. Who cares if you can get you car to hit 40 on a flat highway going 65? That not realistic for most drivers and is quickly erased by local driving. Last time I checked speed limit was 55 in most areas.

    My highway speeds are 55-60, and generally no more. City can be in the range of 20 to 55.

    Some of you would argure that 30 is good...but I want at least the mid MPG. My drive is fairly typical so my MPG should be better. If this car does so well on the highway, where the hell is my higher MPG.
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    Actually most highways around here the limit is 65, and most people do 70. More if the cops aren't looking too hard (oh, they do 85). Which is why "highway" is too generic a term. I hear in Texas the word "limit" is illegal, for example. :shades:

    As posted earlier, MPG can diverge pretty widely between 55 and 75 MPH, possibly by more than 10 MPG. Yet everything in that range could be considered "highway" speed.

    Anyway, you weren't getting it: you might not care about point in time MPG, or MPG at a certain speed, but your car does. So if you're blasting around at 70 MPH and passing at 75 MPG on one fillup and doing 65 on a flat highway steadily on another fillup, your MPGs could be very different.

    Frankly it's not your fault for not understanding that: the EPA, rather than guiding people on what "highway" speed is in their eyes, keeps labeling their test "highway" and lets people fill in the blank on their own.
  • g2iowag2iowa Posts: 123
    My data points seem to line up pretty well with the test results reported by MT, C&D, etc.

    Just filled up after a near 97% highway driving (miles but not time), mostly with cruise control set at 70 mph. Had 2 adult passengers (est about 525 lbs. total for all 3 of us). Temperatures were nearly 90 for half the trip and about 82 for ride home in early evening, so had A/C on entire time. My avg. MPH was 61 and I ended up with 38.46 mpg. (Before that trip I filled up to top off tank. With just a 20 mph avg. I achieved only 26.18 mpg.) So I now have 7 recent data points.

    - Avg MPH= 61 and achieved 38.46 MPG. Drove 196.8 miles and used 5.117 gals.
    - Avg MPH= 52 and achieved 41.38 MPG. Drove 243.4 miles and used 5.882 gals.
    - Avg MPH= 40 and achieved 36.75 MPG. Drove 232.3 miles and used 6.321 gals.
    - Avg MPH= 35 and achieved 35.45 MPG. Drove 231.4 miles and used 6.528 gals.
    - Avg MPH= 30 and achieved 32.68 MPG. Drove 292.0 miles and used 8.934 gals.
    - Avg MPH= 24 and achieved 29.46 MPG. Drove 258.5 miles and used 8.776 gals.
    - Avg MPH= 20 and achieved 26.18 MPG. Drove 103.0 miles and used 3.935 gals.

    I calculated these from the actual number of gals pumped from the same gas station and same fuel pump. All of these were with Active ECO "on"and maximum use of cruise control. Used only regular unleaded (no ethanol). GLS now has 4,717 total miles on her. My computer continues to read high. It showed 41.6 mpg, which was 7.5%, and the other tank showed 28.2 mpg, which was 7.2% too high.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    The other useful data point on your last trip is the 525 lbs. of passenger weight:

    Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your MPG by up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones.

    So for example if the driver weighs 200 pounds, the extra weight on your last trip could have reduced fuel economy by over 6%. On a 20 mpg car, that's a bit over 1 mpg so might not be that noticeable. But on a car capable of 40 mpg highway like the Elantra, that's almost 2.5 mpg. And note the statement from the EPA re how extra weight affects smaller (lighter) cars more than larger ones.

    I wonder how often owners take cargo/passenger weight into account when considering their mpg?
  • g2iowag2iowa Posts: 123
    Yes there are a plethora of relevant factors when measuring achieved FE in the real world.

    I'd like to think my small mother and big 6' 10" brother (the two passengers, who combined probably weigh about 350 lbs.) were "necessary" weight for this trip, to see my other brother.

    The MT article also discusses tire pressure issues (e.g., deliberately underinflating the Cruze ECO's tires by 5 psi led to a .6% reduction in FE). They also noted that all of their gasoline-powered cars "are actually travelling slightly faster than their speedometers indicate. Our best explanation is their new (unworn) tires."
  • rudy66rudy66 Posts: 26
    The Elantra's real problem is city driving, not highway. And anyway, who wants to spend their lives worrying about mpg because of Hyudai's unreliable estimates? Whatever they say, these estimates do not relate to the real world. So maybe we should just drive our Elantra's and, when the time comes for a new car, just get another brand that doesn't broadcast unrealistic mpg. For guys like me who are not into the technicalities (which is the vast majority of drivers) we should not spend our lives trying to "get good mileage". It takes the fun out of driving.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    I think it can be kinda fun, like a game, to see how much FE I can get out of a car. But I see your position. If that's not fun for you, don't worry about it.

    But you won't get optimal FE out of your Elantra or ANY car if you "just drive" it w/o regard to FE. I know because I've done that. I rent a lot of cars, I don't pay for the gas, often I'm rushed for time when driving the rentals so frequently I don't drive them for optimal FE. Guess what? I don't come close to the EPA numbers. I've done experiments with my own cars where I'll drive them for awhile like I don't care about FE--fast starts, quick stops, drive faster than I need to, etc. Guess what? My FE sucks. When I drive with attention to FE, I almost always meet or exceed the EPA numbers in any car. There's sometimes I don't, e.g. driving very short distances in very cold or very hot weather.

    Drive as you want to drive. It's your car, your money.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    I'd like to think my small mother and big 6' 10" brother (the two passengers, who combined probably weigh about 350 lbs.) were "necessary" weight for this trip, to see my other brother.

    I never said your family members weren't necessary, sheesh. But they represent weight not factored into EPA estimates. And it's a fact that the more weight in a car, the lower the FE.

    I figured someone like you who is careful to document the conditions under which you achieve mpg would find that useful.

    I am surprised a 5 psi reduction resulted in only 0.6% reduction in FE. I thought underinflated tires would have a bigger impact. On the Cruze at least, looks like it doesn't. Would have been interesting if they had OVER-inflated the tires by 5 psi to see the effect. I have done that before and I know others do it to achieve better FE. But if it's such a small improvement, probably not worth the tradeoff in ride quality.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,897
    I never said your family members weren't necessary, sheesh.

    I think he was was making a joke.
  • eweinereweiner Posts: 36
    What the heck are you talking about. I gave you my speeds and I understand full well how it impacts MPG.

    65 to 75 is not realistic here and in most places. Point in time FE does not matter. What you get at the pump does. Elantra does not deliver at the pump performance unless you drive 95%+ highway.

    In fact, I don't think many here care to even hear from people who do 95%+ they're not typical drivers.
  • Kate, I agree totally. I was averaging about 25mpg, now I'm averaging about 22mpg. I finally got the dealership to take a look at it (even though no check engine light was on) and they stated that it was missing (I believe on all four cylinders as there were four separate codes, all in series). They did a fuel test and stated that I had 15% alcohol in the tank and that this was an issue with contaminated fuel and would not be covered under warranty. Well, after doing some research, it looks like about 90-95% of all gas has 10% ethanol standard. By the way, 10% ethanol equates to about a 7-8% loss in fuel economy(FE). It's hard to find a station that sells ethanol free. No gas stations near me that sell ethanol free. The nearest is just over 100 miles. So, after a bit more research, we are already suppose to be at 15% ethanol and after talking with the gas stations themselves, they stated that they were already suppose to be selling 15% ethanol mixed fuel. I requested that they get a report so that I can verify that they indeed are at 15%, which is what the EPA is pushing for. So, we will see if Hyundai still tries to pull this bull of not honoring the warranty. Either they don't know why its missing and are incompetent and trying to make stuff up, or they do know why its missing and don't want to honor the warranty and so are being snakes in the grass, either way, they have lost my business. I'll drive two hours to the next major town to get my work done by a reputable dealership.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    edited June 2012
    These are for the 2008 Elantra, different engine, but still interesting I think in light of your post re ethanol content:

    And this more general comment re ethanol-laced gas and Hyundais:

    What does your car's owner's manual say about ethanol content in the gas? Does it say 15 percent ethanol (E15) is OK? If so, you should show that page to your dealer. There's a lot of buzz on the Internet about whether E15 can be used with all newer cars, even though the EPA has given it its blessing. However, pumps that dispense E15 are supposed to be clearly labeled as such, as it is not supposed to be used on any pre-2001 vehicles.

    And since YOUR car seems to have been affected adversely by E15, I wonder if that can explain at least some of the other cases where owners are dissatisfied with the FE on their Elantras?
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    I drive 95% highway. So guess what? I care. But I also know how much difference in FE 5 MPH can make, and how some people (not making any accusations or implications) like to wave off the fact that their "highway" driving might be at 80 MPH as they wonder why they're not getting the MPGs the EPA got on their 65 MPH "highway" test. It's important to keep in mind. And whether you care about "point in time" or not, a "point in time" where you do 85 MPH will reduce your average MPG.
  • gman4911gman4911 Posts: 43
    The Elantra owner's manual warns not to use gas containing more than 10% ethanol and states that the warranty may not cover any damage caused by using it.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,897
    So much for E15 not harming anything built after 2001.
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