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Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

1911131415

Comments

  • sbpceapsbpceap Member Posts: 67
    Thanks for validating the difference in Honda transmission fluid, as confirmed by NAPA. That's interesting info.

    Changing your synthetic oil every 5000 miles is sure playing it safe. Some automotive media experts believe that the new formulations of conventional motor oil are superior enough for at least 5000 miles. Many other mechanics and oil company ads still tout the old 3000 mile oil change rule, but they also have a vested interest in selling oil changes. A website of synthetic oil mfr. Amsoil was critical of Castrol Syntec, but not of other competing brands. As a result, I have been sticking with Mobil 1 or other non Castrol brands that sell 5W-20 synthetic. I also avoid Chavez' Citco oil (but that's for political reasons).
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Dealer diagnosed problem right away but it took almost 10 days for a PS-Pump and Reservoir to arrive from Honda's parts depot. While the dealer did loan my wife a car, that seems and absurdly long time to wait for what should be a readily available part. Perhaps that offers some insight into how widespread the problem may be.

    Accordingly to my service manager, the PS problem is sourced in an O-Ring where two lines meet. If/when the O-Ring starts to fail, it lets air into the PS system. The air creates pockets of unlubricated areas in the pump mechanism, which then begins to grind itself to pieces, shedding metal filings into the works that culminate in PS-Pump failure. I'm told that, in extreme cases, the Rack also needs to be replaced, though I don't know enough about the system to know if they share lubricating systems and/or how those two problems would otherwise be related.

    Anyway, despite the wait, my dealer and his service manager have always been very kind and customer oriented (my problems have been with American Honda, not the dealership) and its now fixed and working AOK.

    Happy Holidays to all!

    -FS
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    The radio in my wife's 99 Ody stopped working suddenly last week. First thought naturally was of course to check the fuses. I opened the owner's manual and it says to check fuse #11 on the passenger side box. I yanked the fuse and it was good. So I thought the radio must have crapped out, and went out and bought a new one to be installed. However, before I had the radio put in, she ran over a nail which flattened one of the tires. I had to pump it up in order to get it to the store to be fixed. I plugged the pump into the lighter and NOTHING. Okay, check the rear plug and the same thing happened. Owner's manual says the ACC plug is fuse #9. I pull that and it's blown. So I put in the new fuse, and it works. But then I tried turning on the radio and it come on! Okay, Honda is giving me bad info in the owner's manual. So a word to the wise. The radio is fuse #9, not #11 as in the manual (at least for the 99 LX).
  • tallguy1tallguy1 Member Posts: 1
    Have 2007 Odyssey. Despite reasonable mileage over 20m/gal, I am noticing that when the fuel gage reads empty and warning light comes on there is apparently at least 5 gallons of gas still in tank. Result is van has apparently very short range as that allows only about 350miles from full to indicated empty. Is there any way to recalibrate so empty reserve is about half that?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    as a rule, honda vehicles tend to indicate empty early.

    your van doesn't have a shorter range because of this. merely, the indication of low is early.

    i suppose you could get the sender calibrated (probably accessible via a port in the carpeting near the rear cargo area).
  • angelchicagoangelchicago Member Posts: 38
    Got 07 Ody w/Leather Nav and RES.

    The first row driver and passenger have an electronic thermostat setting where you set the desired temp then the car takes over from their.

    Not fully sure how the heat is managed from the front seats for the 2nd row. The manual says the "heat" in the second row is defined by the drivers seat setting, yet if you do not set the fan speed for the 2nd row it appears the 2nd row will get no heat at all. I thought there was a sensor in the 2nd row to help manage comfort ?

    So my question is how does one manage 2nd row temp comfort from the front seat. 1) Does one set the "heat" by drivers seat setting then manage 2nd row comfort level manually using the fan speed going up and down OR 2) Does one set the "heat" by drivers seat setting then the car computer manages 2nd row comfort level ?
  • rebeccac3rebeccac3 Member Posts: 1
    I waited to change my oil longer than I should have and it is now flashing a negative number. I attempted to reset it as the manual suggests but it still wont reset. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem?

    Thanks in advance

    Rebecca
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The "heat" is managed by the driver's setting, as far as temperature, the fan speed for the second and third row is set manually, but regardless of airflow selected, the temperature will be what it's calling for up front.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Your oil change meter is merely showing how many miles oveddue your oil change is. It can be reset when you get it changed and serviced.
  • eric8452eric8452 Member Posts: 3
    Hello all! 'just wondering if anybody out there have experienced the same problem I'm having with my '06 Odyssey EX with 40K mi on it.

    For awhile I was having trouble with a high speed steering wheel vibration that has since repaired by the Honda service center.

    When the shimmy problem disappeared this unusual sound coming from underneath the van surfaced everytime I pulled out of a brief stop. It sounds like I run over a metal drain cover or more like I run over a piece of chicken wire, or a spring uncoiling sound (it's kinda hard to describe the sound). It's a very brief annoying sound and only happens when driving off from a stop.

    Many thanks and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

    Best regards.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    it's very possible you picked up some road debris. you might want to look under it (vehicle in park, emergency brake on, engine off). sometimes you can drive up onto a curb from the sloping side of a driveway to give yourself more clearence to scoot under. if you don't feel comfortable with that, have a local garage put it on the lift and look for something odd. spot them a $10 or $20.

    once my wife drove over road debris. for a week there was a creeking from the rear of our odyssey everytime going over a little bump. i drove the passenger side of the car up onto our lawn so I could get under the vehicle more easily. i found my wife had picked up a metal pole about 4 feet long used to turn on and off people's water service out at the street. it was wedged into the rear wheel spring assembly and i had to get the vehicle put on a lift to unload the suspension so the rod could be pulled out.

    the guys at the shop couldn't believe how lucky we were that it didn't take out a brake line, or puncture the tank or something else like that.

    so who knows, it could be a kid's slinky wrapped around the wheel axle or some wire or a piece of metal. look for something obvious that doesn't belong.

    i suppose it could be a loose strut at the strut tower mounting point. it could be a bad brake caliper.

    the other thing... if you are stomping on the gas, it could be your traction control activating briefly to retard wheel spin on a slick surface.

    good luck.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    if it is only heard once, at about 13mph, the first time you move after starting the van, it is likely the ABS self test. It kind of sounds like that.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • eric8452eric8452 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response.

    user 777, that's exactly what I did, 'parked the van in the drive way to get a good visual underneath.....nothing there. I was kinda hoping I'll find something just like what you had suggested, i figure it'll be a quick fix on my part if there's a piece of wire wrapped aroung the axle.

    stickguy's comment is right on, you'll only hear the sound immediately after starting the vehicle at approx 8-10 mph from a dead stop, and only during that time.
    Is this something that can wait to get fixed, or repair is necessary asap due to safety issue?

    I don't think I can troubleshoot this myself so I'll just take it back to the dealership and have them figure it out. At least I have an idea where the sound is coming from and what's causing it..... that should help the techs to easily dianose the problem.

    Thanks again.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    Well, if it is the self check, then it is normal. All cars do it, but for some reason, it tends to be quite noticable sometimes on the odyssey.

    It wasn't clear to me from your response if it only does it the first time after you start the car. Is it that, or does it do it again if you come to a stop with the car running?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • eric8452eric8452 Member Posts: 3
    stickguy, the brief noise from underneath the van will sound off only when I start my engine and I drive away (after going at approx 10 ft; bet 8-10 mph) . It doesn't do that at.... say traffic stop with the car engine running, or a brief stop at a convenient store with the engine still on.

    I understand that maybe this is normal, but is it normal if mine seems to be a bit..... loud?

    Anyway I'm satisfied with the info you had provided that all cars equipped with ABS do it.....as long as it's not a safety issue I can deal with the noise. Thanks.
  • dmanyaddmanyad Member Posts: 3
    My wife takes our 2007 Odyssey (now about 22,000 miles) into EZ Lube for oil changes (about every 5000 miles) since it is so convenient and she can't be bothered to go to our regular mechanic just for oil changes. But when she does, they always claim that the car needs a new air filter and new a/c cabin filter. How often is one supposed to change the air filter? how about the cabin filter?
  • speterson1speterson1 Member Posts: 228
    Eric, the noise wouldn't by any chance be your automatic door locks, would it? They trigger at 9 mph, and that fits your latest description since you say the noise doesn't happen at stoplights or when you stop with the engine still on.

    If that is the case you can change that through your remote if you like, check your owner's manual for details.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    it does fit the profile of the (normal) self check. For some reason, the Ody is known to be noisy with it, when most cars aren't.

    Does the touring have self locking doors? My EX-L sure doesn't! That could also be it I suppose, but you would likely notice the lock buttons going down too.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • jpmnovajpmnova Member Posts: 15
    I have an '07 Odyssey EX (6,000 miles) that is leaking power steering fluid. I added fluid today (filled to Max line) after seeing that it was below the minimum line, drove it for a while, and when I checked it again later, it was well below the bottom line. Car doesn't sound right or drive great. Anyone have a similar problem w/ an '07? Is the car ok to drive for a couple days if I keeping checking and adding to the PSF? Will I'm sure be covered by warranty, but don't know how much I can drive it until I get it into the dealer? Thanks. :sick:
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    if it is leaking that much, you are in danger of chewing up the rack (or at least the PS pump). But, with the known issues on those (my 2005 just got is't second replacement) that is now a in-stock item!

    Be careful with it, but of course, the dealer doesn't have to know how many times you filled up the fluid!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    I put in a new air filter about once a year, which for my driving is around 15K miles.

    Every 5K miles is overkill for new air filters. I'd just stick to replacing it once a year or so, give or take a month.

    I don't even remember the last time I replaced the A/C Cabin filter... Thats more of a comfort item than a maintenance item... Replace it if you want to, I guess..
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    since this is commonly asked by many new owners, i think honda came out with a tsb that documented how the service guys could trigger a self-test of the ABS so you could listen and verify it is infact the same noise.

    ask your dealer if they'd do it.

    if it happens once per start, i'd say it's normal stuff, but if it seems loud to you, have them ride with you or - duplicate the test using the tsb instructions.
  • faxthatfaxthat Member Posts: 9
    Difficult to track back to the origin of the thread to see the description of the sound. But we were just at our dealership for a new car owner clinic. They said it is common for Hondas to click when first starting out or after having sat for a while. They say its the brake calipers. I think it is a floating caliper so it's not solidly fixed. It can move a little. And it does move when starting out because the pads may slightly rub against the rotor. They described it as a clicking sound and to not be alarmed by it. Our 08 Ody is so new that it's not doing it yet. They said it doesn't start clicking until 5-7K miles.

    I recommend asking dealer about air filter and cabin air filter changes. I would only do that at a dealer anyway because the filters they use are higher quality. Low quality air filters can deteriorate so that filter particles break loose. Not good. IIRC, cabin filter replacement is a 60K cycle and requires breaking a seal when it's first replaced. It sits behind glove box and requires glove box removal. I wouldn't trust oil change shop with that task.

    I'll be interested in hearing the resolution to the noise issue.
  • faxthatfaxthat Member Posts: 9
    Difficult to track back to the origin of the thread to see the description of the sound. But we were just at our dealership for a new car owner clinic. They said it is common for Hondas to click when first starting out or after having sat for a while. They say its the brake calipers. I think it is a floating caliper so it's not solidly fixed. It can move a little. And it does move when starting out because the pads may slightly rub against the rotor. They described it as a clicking sound and to not be alarmed by it. Our 08 Ody is so new that it's not doing it yet. They said it doesn't start clicking until 5-7K miles.

    I recommend asking dealer about air filter and cabin air filter changes. I would only do that at a dealer anyway because the filters they use are higher quality. Low quality air filters can deteriorate so that filter particles break loose. Not good. IIRC, cabin filter replacement is a 60K cycle and requires breaking a seal when it's first replaced. It sits behind glove box and requires glove box removal. I wouldn't trust oil change shop with that task.

    I'll be interested in hearing the resolution to the noise issue.
  • wattmanwattman Member Posts: 1
    I have an '07 Odyssey and it has the blue (Plasma or LED?) lighting. The center part of the speedometer is a dark, solid circle that has the Km per hour numbers on it. Behind that is the light and around the light is the MPH numbers. I just drove it the other day for the first time in two weeks (wife's car) and I noticed that the center solid circle is moving within the display. I thought I was going bonkers, but after the wife told me to stop looking at it and keep my eyes on the road, I pulled to a stop and sure enough she even confirmed that it appeard to be "floating" around within the speedo. I asked why she didn't tell me about this and she says she never noticed it. :confuse: Very small movement, but it was moving in very small circular motion. We drove the car on a 1200 mile trip last December and I know it was not doing it then, cause it only took me a moment to notice it the other day. I have not called the dealer yet, but does anyone else have this problem?
  • angelchicagoangelchicago Member Posts: 38
    Got my first scratch/pierce on my rear bumper, 07 Ex. I backed into some landscaping pavers. The scratch/hole is on the rear bumper is not too visible, about slice size of a quarter. It may cost 650 to repair or replace. Not sure I want to spring for the repair as the bumper may just get bumped again, and the fact the bumper is fiberglass where factory paint is baked on which is something a body shop may not be able to get a repaint job to stick on so well. I thought I would throw out the question to the group if bumper scratches are very common item or not, and or how folks may have delt with this, got over it or just had it repaired.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Bumper scratches are very common on all cars today.

    IMHO, get over it - you'll get more.

    As for a body shop fixing it - most can easily achieve a flawless finish and you'd probably never notice a difference. Most body shops do bake on paint.
  • touring2005touring2005 Member Posts: 4
    Hi everyone, I have been searching the OdyClub site and here for info on what may be going on with my '05 Touring.... I recently had the TSB for the brakes done on my van and reported to them when I took it in that it had a hollow metallic moaning noise when turning the van at low speeds.

    I have narrowed it down to the 10 - 15 mph range and when turning both left and right. As I said, they have already done the TSB for the brake pad issue, have had the front right axle replaced about a year ago, and wheel bearings about 4 months ago.

    Now when I turn into my driveway, around a cul-de-sac, or into a parking space and have my foot on the brakes with about medium pressure, I hear a loud metallic sound, almost like a hollow pipe sound.

    Any ideas what this may be? Obviously the dealer did not fix it when we had it there originally.

    Thanks, I look forward to any replies or insight you may be able to give.
  • tonton26tonton26 Member Posts: 8
    I am driving a 2006 EX-L with 31,500 miles on it. When I am about 70 - 75 mph and pressed on the brakes to slow down (not abrupt braking), my steering wheel tends to vibrate. I just had my wheels balanced last month so I suppose it is not a balancing issue. Tire pressure is also correct. If anyone has the same problem and has solved it, I would really appreciate the advice. Thank you.
  • faxthatfaxthat Member Posts: 9
    I would have someone look at the discs (rotors) to see if they have warped. In other brands of cars I've owned, that symptom indicates warped discs. It could also be steering/suspension linkage wear.
  • pkgman2pkgman2 Member Posts: 13
    Hi,
    Im looking for both the 60 and 80K maint schedules for a 2000 odyssey,

    Anyone have something that would help? It's my friends car and she hasn't done anything lately on it.

    Jeff
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    The owner link website will have all that information:

    https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?brand=honda
  • rykarrykar Member Posts: 5
    Hi- I have a month old exl and when I put the inside temperature to LO and have the fan on th elowest setting- it all of a sudden starts blasting air full force in th esecond and third rows and if I raise the temp one level to the first number (maybe it's 60) it doesn't blow fast and furious anymore> Any thoughts of similar probs?
  • tonton26tonton26 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks faxthat. I will have it checked maybe this weekend.
  • tonton26tonton26 Member Posts: 8
    I believe it is normal for the A/C to do that, to the fact that it is a temperature controlled system. I have the same case on my 06. The A/C system detects the interior temperature. As you will notice, when you turn it on, especially on summer time, it doesn't blow hard right at away. Then after about 2-3 seconds, it starts blowing harder. I have a friend who has a 05 and does the same thing. It will gradually slow down as the interior temp. gets cooler.
  • boyscout1boyscout1 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem and I had to replace my struts ...
  • elhefe18elhefe18 Member Posts: 1
    Have you ever seen this site:

    http://www.handa-accessories.com/

    You can buy genuine honda parts. They are having a sale on floor mats right now.
    I think they are $150 and you may have to buy one for the 3rd row.
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    My wife's '07 Odyssey EX gets a vibration at around 70 mph that shakes the wheel and the steering column (can actually see it shuddering).

    I don't know if its related, but I've heard the Power Steering apparatus making a hydraulic whining sound. We had the power steering pump and the fluid line O-ring repair done under warranty about 6-8000 miles ago but I think there may be some fluid leaking again (have to put down some cardboard next time the wife is out).

    Anybody beside me think my rack got wrecked from the pump/O-ring failure and is now causing problems? Any opinions/solutions/ideas would be welcomed.

    Thanks!

    -FS
  • bobber1bobber1 Member Posts: 217
    That could be something as simple as your tires being out of balance or alignment. I've had vehicles shake because there was some mud that had collected on one side of the rim and it simply took a water hose to correct the problem.

    I'd take it to a tire shop first and see what they think.
  • rka1rka1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Sometimes, I hear a loud metal on metal sound when I start and take my Ody'05 van out of the garage, back up in driveway and into cul-de-sac and then going forward for about 30 feet and then make a left turn.

    Was your symptom anything closure to mine?

    Thanks,
  • faxthatfaxthat Member Posts: 9
    Sounds like you have the "Auto" button engaged. Just click the fan speed down to regain manual control. "Auto" lets the system set fan speed and select airflow mode to achieve the desired temp as quickly as possible, hence the blasting fan. The rear system has its own control center so you need to check that, too.
  • autowriteautowrite Member Posts: 226
    Within the last 2 weeks I occassionally have a squeak when turning the steering wheel when 1st starting out or at low speed. It comes & goes. I had my van into the dealer today for type I, 202,000 kms maintenance and asked them to check it out. They said it was hard to find and to wait until it gets louder. On the way back home I stopped to see a mechanic friend who works for Ford & mentioned this noise. He said it was sounds like it's the 'clock spring'. I asked him about me squirting some WD-40 just under the steering wheel and he said I could do it but it may not help.

    Has anyone else in the the OdyClub had this similar problem?

    Thanks

    2002 Honda Odyssey EX

    Previous Vehicles
    1992 Ford Taurus L 4 door 300 cu in long-stroke
    1982 Ford E150 Customized by Triple-E travel Van 351 cu ins V8
    1979 Mercury Zephyr 6 cylinder 4-door sedan
    1972 Datsun 510 4-door automatic
    1967 Plymount Valiant 2-door sedan large-v6
    1965 Morris 1100
    1963 Austin 850 mini
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    OK - took it to the dealer, who actually listened to the engine while I mildly powerbraked it and said it was coming from the Power Steering Pump. Dealer put a new PS pump in the car but my wife said its still making the noise.

    The noise is really a two-part event - the first is the hydraulic whiny sound (it SOUNDS like a worn Power Steering Pump). The second, which accompanies the first, sounds like metal wire brushes pressing against a smooth rotating metallic surface - a soft metallic "swishswishswishswishswish" sound.

    Both happen only when the car is under load in reverse or drive - never in park or neutral even if the engine is revved. I tend to notice it most when pulling in or out of the garage and the engine sound is reflected off the wall.

    Any ideas folks? Car is otherwise running/driving fine (besides the BS they gave me about it having to run on premium to prevent it from knocking). But I'm taking this car on a 600 mile trip with my family in two weeks and would very much like to make sure that the tranny isn't going to fall out 1/2 way between NY and VA.

    This may very well be the last Honda I ever buy. :(

    -FS
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    Hey, folks. Long time away.
    I searched but didn't find anything regarding this. Our 2002 Ody LX had pollen filter (a bit of a pain to get to the first time) that I'd changed a few times, but when I went to change it in our 2006 LX, I found that instead of a tray that had just a ribbed grid on the bottom, it had small panels with 6 or 8 mm holes in them -and no filter element! I figured the panels were there to catch large junk (twigs, large bugs and birds -all of which are a prblm spit at you by the A/C while you're driving), but was reluctant to just cut them out w/ a utility knife. I was also surprised that there was no filter element, when our 4 yr oldr model did have it.

    Anyway, I did, I did cut the little panels out, installed the filter element (noted that you need to make sure that the end flap of the filter media catches on the lip of the tray that holds it in place). It's running, appears to be working, but I'd be interested in knowing if you EX folks have trays that have just narrow bar grids in them (with opening that are roughly 3" square, or if you have small holes in flat panels in the bottom of the tray.

    Thnx
  • jlsxpressllcjlsxpressllc Member Posts: 11
    I would like to give my two cents worth on oil changes. I'm a commercial truck driver. My truck engine is a Mercedez engine. The Frieghtliner dealer says I should change my oil every 10,000 miles. With that said, if one is to do research on oil and it's change interval, One would find some very interesting information.

    Being in the trucking industry, changing oil (synthetic) can run up to 400.00. We in the truck industry count pennies. For instance, saving a penny at the fuel pump will give us a return of 200.00 to 500.00 per year. With respect to all the oil manufactures, I would like to provide the following information. I change my oil according to an oil anaylasis (spelling). I do an oil anaylasis every 10000 miles ( the interval the dealer recommends an oil change). If the analasis says the oil is ok, then I keep on trucking. I do however, always change my fluid filters (to include oil) at the recommend oil change service. For the most part, I change my oil every 400-600 engine hours. This would amount to about 30,000 to 70,000 miles. Well beyond what the dealer recommends. For the most part, the oil we use in todays engines can go well beyond what the dealer will recommend. The oil companies and dealers tell you to change your oil about 3000 to 5000 for the sole purpose to help their bottom line. I''ve put almost 500,000 miles doing my oil changes this way. My engine doesn't show any more wear and tear than if someone change their oil at the recommend oil change interval.

    If a dealer refuses to warry. an item because they say you don't have proof of doing your oil changes, you could sue them. The burden of proof is on the dealer. They must prove that the failer is oil related. This is difficult to do without an oil analasis. I would recommend if you suspect a failer, take some oil out of the system before the dealer does, and send it to a lab. The lab report will give you very specific detail about your oil. To include, the additives, vecosity, specific metals (all metals associated in engine), it will include fuel levels in the oil, it will include antifreez levels as well. The lab result will give you a definite probability as to whether your oil caused the failer or not. One good source on this information in AMSOIL.COM They offer a warry. with there oil and will give you similar information as I have here.

    I hope this information helps. By no means is my infomation a bible, in fact it's insite on how I run my trucking operation. I encourage you to do vigourus research and don't take my word for it.
  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    The cost of the oil analysis and the time required to get it done cost far more than the standard $30 or so my local Honda dealer charges for an oil change?

    Plus, don't most of the newer Hondas have the oil life monitor that tells you when your oil is about to go?
  • jlsxpressllcjlsxpressllc Member Posts: 11
    Let me clarify, the above mentioned conditions was refering to a commercial truck application. One would save significantly by doing an oil analysis.

    For example (the odyssey). Let say five quarts of synthetic oil cost you about 29.00 plus filter (6.00). One can get an oil analysis at any Speedco ( this company does oil changes for commercial truck similar to Jiffy Lube is for cars and you get the analysis handed back to you in about 15mins.) for the mear price of $14.95. Lets say at 10,000 miles (for odyssey) your oil life monitor (which is nothing but a alogrithym) says 0% oil left. You spend $6.00 on oil filter, and 14.95 on oil analysis. That's 20.95 total and your still ahead of the money game by roughly 14.00. Now, lets say you go to 20,000 miles and do another oil analysis, that's 14.95 plus 6. Now you have saved another 14.00 or so. And so on, and so on. In the trucking world, this adds up to hundreds if not thousands a dollars a year. I myself, save about 1200 a year. In the auto market, well, depends on your preference.

    Just because oil is dirty does not mean it needs to be change. Oil only has to be changed if the additives decrease beyond a recommended level or say the wear metals are unusually high. There is also what is called a TBN number. If this number drops below standard, you must change the oil. There is actually a science to all of this. I know people in commercial trucks that run over 300,000 miles on one oil change before the oil analysis says its time to change the oil. Remember, you still need to change your filters at interval, not neccessarly the oil.

    Oils go so much further than the automobile manufactures will tell you. Just speek to any trucking company, any maritime operation. The best oils suspend the contamenants.
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    The oil advice I read on the internet is mostly laughable. The vast majority of oil posts are filled with false assumptions, over-simplifications, or flat out misinformation.

    Personally, I drive 15,000 miles a year and choose to change my oil at 5,000 mile intervals. My wife drove her last car only 6,000 miles a year and I changed its oil also at 5,000 mile intervals. Sound okay? The engines in the cars I drive always look clean inside. On the other hand, my wife’s engine had heavy varnishing inside and her oil always got dirty more quickly than mine did. If you understand why that difference happened, you’ll understand a major reason why so many oil posts just plain have it wrong.

    First, filtration: if your oil filter does a good job at removing harmful particulates – and that’s a big “if” with many cheap oil filters – it still does very little to remove water (which is a combustion by-product remember) and corrosives carried in solution in the oil. Routinely driving a car with the oil well above 100-degrees Celsius long enough to evacuate steam built up in the crankcase will remove most of the accumulated water – something my wife does NOT do and I should have been changing her oil far more regularly. The only effective way to remove corrosives carried in solution in your oil is to *change* your oil. Exactly how much water and corrosives you have in your oil at any given time is highly variable and dependant on many factors. Buy good filters though.

    Second, oil quality: oil is made from base stocks and additive packages which can vary greatly from one brand to another. Cheap oil can go out of grade within hours and/or deplete its ad-pack very quickly given the wrong conditions. Without knowing the details of your base stocks and ad-pack and way more than you probably know about the conditions inside your engine, you can’t accurately predict exactly when you should change your oil. You can, however, choose a quality oil made from a quality base stock with a good additive package and give yourself some margin of comfort as well as peace-of-mind by choosing a reasonable changing interval.

    Third, synthetics vs petroleum-based oils: synthetics oils break down in the presence of water more readily than dino oils do. In my wife’s old car, synthetic oil would have been both a poor choice and big waste of money. Alternatively, petroleum-based oils break down more easily than synthetics under high heat, load and shear. Thus, in some situations synthetic oils are preferable (high heat/load/shear but low water) while in other situations petroleum-based oils are better (lower heat but more water-vapor). Synthetic-petroleum blends can provide the benefits of both oil types but may not always be the best and most cost-effective solution. Choose wisely and don’t listen to anyone who says one particular oil is best for your situation without them knowing a LOT about YOUR situation.

    Fourth, viscosity: EPA fuel-mileage figures are important to auto manufacturers and low-viscosity 5W-20 oil helps improve mpg number in NEW engines. In order to get permission to use low-viscosity 5W-20 oil during EPA fuel-mileage testing, auto manufacturers have entered into agreements with the EPA to only specify and recommend and the same 5W-20 oil used during EPA testing in the owner’s manual, at the dealer, and on the engine oil filler cap. (While the owner’s manual is allowed by the EPA to recommend alternate viscosities for weather and service extremes, the core recommendation must match the oil viscosity used in testing). If you seriously believe that 5W-20 oil is the ideal viscosity to protect your engine over its life - whether you live in Alaska or Florida - because the manufacturer says so (because the EPA makes them say it), then you, flatly, are a fool.

    While mentioning the EPA with regard to oil, it’s worth bringing up the API’s (American Petroleum Institute) service classifications "SH" for years 1994-1996, "SJ" for 1997-2001, "SL" for 2001-2004, and "SM" for 2004 and newer gasoline engines. In response to EPA mandates to reduce alleged catalytic converter poisoning by engine oil additives, the above service classifications have progressively reduced allowable levels of anti-wear additives - zinc (zincdialkylditiophosphate or ZDDP) and moly (molybdenum disulfide or MoS2) being the most common ones. The newest API service classifications for gasoline (and diesel) engine oils are NOT necessarily improvements in every single respect over previous specifications. Unfortunately for your engine, some oil recommendations and specifications are more about air quality than they are about engine life so, again, choose wisely.

    BOTTOM LINE: There is a lot to consider with regard to oil changes and layman's guides can’t get it 100% right – it’s too complex a subject for any simple theory to cover adequately.

    BTW: I am not an engineer or a scientist but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express hotel last night.
  • autowriteautowrite Member Posts: 226
    IWe put 2,200 kms/mo on our 2002 Odyssey and do oil changes at our Honda dealer every 6,000 kms. The only time this was different was in Feb when we went to Texas on holiday. We did 9,000 on the trip. We live in Ontario, Canada.

    We were away 5 weeks and stayed with our son just north of Galveston for the 1st and last week. The middle weeks we stayed in McAllen in the Rio-Grande Valley Square Dancing.

    We stayed at the Microtel for $34.95/night. We would never pay the high cost of a Holiday Inn. The Microtel is owned by the Hyatt Regency of New York.
  • junghyun85junghyun85 Member Posts: 5
    I have a quick question about oil change for 08 Odyssey. .

    From automobile shops such as Firestone and Jiffy Lube, I was often told
    that regular oil's duration was 3 months / 3000 miles and
    Synthetic was around 5000-6000 miles.

    Can someone clarify on this information? I heard that now, you should change the oil every 7500 miles or so. Is this assuming that I do synthetic oil change every time which costs a lot more?
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