Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Changing your synthetic oil every 5000 miles is sure playing it safe. Some automotive media experts believe that the new formulations of conventional motor oil are superior enough for at least 5000 miles. Many other mechanics and oil company ads still tout the old 3000 mile oil change rule, but they also have a vested interest in selling oil changes. A website of synthetic oil mfr. Amsoil was critical of Castrol Syntec, but not of other competing brands. As a result, I have been sticking with Mobil 1 or other non Castrol brands that sell 5W-20 synthetic. I also avoid Chavez' Citco oil (but that's for political reasons).
Accordingly to my service manager, the PS problem is sourced in an O-Ring where two lines meet. If/when the O-Ring starts to fail, it lets air into the PS system. The air creates pockets of unlubricated areas in the pump mechanism, which then begins to grind itself to pieces, shedding metal filings into the works that culminate in PS-Pump failure. I'm told that, in extreme cases, the Rack also needs to be replaced, though I don't know enough about the system to know if they share lubricating systems and/or how those two problems would otherwise be related.
Anyway, despite the wait, my dealer and his service manager have always been very kind and customer oriented (my problems have been with American Honda, not the dealership) and its now fixed and working AOK.
Happy Holidays to all!
-FS
your van doesn't have a shorter range because of this. merely, the indication of low is early.
i suppose you could get the sender calibrated (probably accessible via a port in the carpeting near the rear cargo area).
The first row driver and passenger have an electronic thermostat setting where you set the desired temp then the car takes over from their.
Not fully sure how the heat is managed from the front seats for the 2nd row. The manual says the "heat" in the second row is defined by the drivers seat setting, yet if you do not set the fan speed for the 2nd row it appears the 2nd row will get no heat at all. I thought there was a sensor in the 2nd row to help manage comfort ?
So my question is how does one manage 2nd row temp comfort from the front seat. 1) Does one set the "heat" by drivers seat setting then manage 2nd row comfort level manually using the fan speed going up and down OR 2) Does one set the "heat" by drivers seat setting then the car computer manages 2nd row comfort level ?
Thanks in advance
Rebecca
For awhile I was having trouble with a high speed steering wheel vibration that has since repaired by the Honda service center.
When the shimmy problem disappeared this unusual sound coming from underneath the van surfaced everytime I pulled out of a brief stop. It sounds like I run over a metal drain cover or more like I run over a piece of chicken wire, or a spring uncoiling sound (it's kinda hard to describe the sound). It's a very brief annoying sound and only happens when driving off from a stop.
Many thanks and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards.
once my wife drove over road debris. for a week there was a creeking from the rear of our odyssey everytime going over a little bump. i drove the passenger side of the car up onto our lawn so I could get under the vehicle more easily. i found my wife had picked up a metal pole about 4 feet long used to turn on and off people's water service out at the street. it was wedged into the rear wheel spring assembly and i had to get the vehicle put on a lift to unload the suspension so the rod could be pulled out.
the guys at the shop couldn't believe how lucky we were that it didn't take out a brake line, or puncture the tank or something else like that.
so who knows, it could be a kid's slinky wrapped around the wheel axle or some wire or a piece of metal. look for something obvious that doesn't belong.
i suppose it could be a loose strut at the strut tower mounting point. it could be a bad brake caliper.
the other thing... if you are stomping on the gas, it could be your traction control activating briefly to retard wheel spin on a slick surface.
good luck.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
user 777, that's exactly what I did, 'parked the van in the drive way to get a good visual underneath.....nothing there. I was kinda hoping I'll find something just like what you had suggested, i figure it'll be a quick fix on my part if there's a piece of wire wrapped aroung the axle.
stickguy's comment is right on, you'll only hear the sound immediately after starting the vehicle at approx 8-10 mph from a dead stop, and only during that time.
Is this something that can wait to get fixed, or repair is necessary asap due to safety issue?
I don't think I can troubleshoot this myself so I'll just take it back to the dealership and have them figure it out. At least I have an idea where the sound is coming from and what's causing it..... that should help the techs to easily dianose the problem.
Thanks again.
It wasn't clear to me from your response if it only does it the first time after you start the car. Is it that, or does it do it again if you come to a stop with the car running?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I understand that maybe this is normal, but is it normal if mine seems to be a bit..... loud?
Anyway I'm satisfied with the info you had provided that all cars equipped with ABS do it.....as long as it's not a safety issue I can deal with the noise. Thanks.
If that is the case you can change that through your remote if you like, check your owner's manual for details.
Does the touring have self locking doors? My EX-L sure doesn't! That could also be it I suppose, but you would likely notice the lock buttons going down too.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Be careful with it, but of course, the dealer doesn't have to know how many times you filled up the fluid!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Every 5K miles is overkill for new air filters. I'd just stick to replacing it once a year or so, give or take a month.
I don't even remember the last time I replaced the A/C Cabin filter... Thats more of a comfort item than a maintenance item... Replace it if you want to, I guess..
ask your dealer if they'd do it.
if it happens once per start, i'd say it's normal stuff, but if it seems loud to you, have them ride with you or - duplicate the test using the tsb instructions.
I recommend asking dealer about air filter and cabin air filter changes. I would only do that at a dealer anyway because the filters they use are higher quality. Low quality air filters can deteriorate so that filter particles break loose. Not good. IIRC, cabin filter replacement is a 60K cycle and requires breaking a seal when it's first replaced. It sits behind glove box and requires glove box removal. I wouldn't trust oil change shop with that task.
I'll be interested in hearing the resolution to the noise issue.
I recommend asking dealer about air filter and cabin air filter changes. I would only do that at a dealer anyway because the filters they use are higher quality. Low quality air filters can deteriorate so that filter particles break loose. Not good. IIRC, cabin filter replacement is a 60K cycle and requires breaking a seal when it's first replaced. It sits behind glove box and requires glove box removal. I wouldn't trust oil change shop with that task.
I'll be interested in hearing the resolution to the noise issue.
IMHO, get over it - you'll get more.
As for a body shop fixing it - most can easily achieve a flawless finish and you'd probably never notice a difference. Most body shops do bake on paint.
I have narrowed it down to the 10 - 15 mph range and when turning both left and right. As I said, they have already done the TSB for the brake pad issue, have had the front right axle replaced about a year ago, and wheel bearings about 4 months ago.
Now when I turn into my driveway, around a cul-de-sac, or into a parking space and have my foot on the brakes with about medium pressure, I hear a loud metallic sound, almost like a hollow pipe sound.
Any ideas what this may be? Obviously the dealer did not fix it when we had it there originally.
Thanks, I look forward to any replies or insight you may be able to give.
Im looking for both the 60 and 80K maint schedules for a 2000 odyssey,
Anyone have something that would help? It's my friends car and she hasn't done anything lately on it.
Jeff
https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?brand=honda
http://www.handa-accessories.com/
You can buy genuine honda parts. They are having a sale on floor mats right now.
I think they are $150 and you may have to buy one for the 3rd row.
I don't know if its related, but I've heard the Power Steering apparatus making a hydraulic whining sound. We had the power steering pump and the fluid line O-ring repair done under warranty about 6-8000 miles ago but I think there may be some fluid leaking again (have to put down some cardboard next time the wife is out).
Anybody beside me think my rack got wrecked from the pump/O-ring failure and is now causing problems? Any opinions/solutions/ideas would be welcomed.
Thanks!
-FS
I'd take it to a tire shop first and see what they think.
Sometimes, I hear a loud metal on metal sound when I start and take my Ody'05 van out of the garage, back up in driveway and into cul-de-sac and then going forward for about 30 feet and then make a left turn.
Was your symptom anything closure to mine?
Thanks,
Has anyone else in the the OdyClub had this similar problem?
Thanks
2002 Honda Odyssey EX
Previous Vehicles
1992 Ford Taurus L 4 door 300 cu in long-stroke
1982 Ford E150 Customized by Triple-E travel Van 351 cu ins V8
1979 Mercury Zephyr 6 cylinder 4-door sedan
1972 Datsun 510 4-door automatic
1967 Plymount Valiant 2-door sedan large-v6
1965 Morris 1100
1963 Austin 850 mini
The noise is really a two-part event - the first is the hydraulic whiny sound (it SOUNDS like a worn Power Steering Pump). The second, which accompanies the first, sounds like metal wire brushes pressing against a smooth rotating metallic surface - a soft metallic "swishswishswishswishswish" sound.
Both happen only when the car is under load in reverse or drive - never in park or neutral even if the engine is revved. I tend to notice it most when pulling in or out of the garage and the engine sound is reflected off the wall.
Any ideas folks? Car is otherwise running/driving fine (besides the BS they gave me about it having to run on premium to prevent it from knocking). But I'm taking this car on a 600 mile trip with my family in two weeks and would very much like to make sure that the tranny isn't going to fall out 1/2 way between NY and VA.
This may very well be the last Honda I ever buy.
-FS
I searched but didn't find anything regarding this. Our 2002 Ody LX had pollen filter (a bit of a pain to get to the first time) that I'd changed a few times, but when I went to change it in our 2006 LX, I found that instead of a tray that had just a ribbed grid on the bottom, it had small panels with 6 or 8 mm holes in them -and no filter element! I figured the panels were there to catch large junk (twigs, large bugs and birds -all of which are a prblm spit at you by the A/C while you're driving), but was reluctant to just cut them out w/ a utility knife. I was also surprised that there was no filter element, when our 4 yr oldr model did have it.
Anyway, I did, I did cut the little panels out, installed the filter element (noted that you need to make sure that the end flap of the filter media catches on the lip of the tray that holds it in place). It's running, appears to be working, but I'd be interested in knowing if you EX folks have trays that have just narrow bar grids in them (with opening that are roughly 3" square, or if you have small holes in flat panels in the bottom of the tray.
Thnx
Being in the trucking industry, changing oil (synthetic) can run up to 400.00. We in the truck industry count pennies. For instance, saving a penny at the fuel pump will give us a return of 200.00 to 500.00 per year. With respect to all the oil manufactures, I would like to provide the following information. I change my oil according to an oil anaylasis (spelling). I do an oil anaylasis every 10000 miles ( the interval the dealer recommends an oil change). If the analasis says the oil is ok, then I keep on trucking. I do however, always change my fluid filters (to include oil) at the recommend oil change service. For the most part, I change my oil every 400-600 engine hours. This would amount to about 30,000 to 70,000 miles. Well beyond what the dealer recommends. For the most part, the oil we use in todays engines can go well beyond what the dealer will recommend. The oil companies and dealers tell you to change your oil about 3000 to 5000 for the sole purpose to help their bottom line. I''ve put almost 500,000 miles doing my oil changes this way. My engine doesn't show any more wear and tear than if someone change their oil at the recommend oil change interval.
If a dealer refuses to warry. an item because they say you don't have proof of doing your oil changes, you could sue them. The burden of proof is on the dealer. They must prove that the failer is oil related. This is difficult to do without an oil analasis. I would recommend if you suspect a failer, take some oil out of the system before the dealer does, and send it to a lab. The lab report will give you very specific detail about your oil. To include, the additives, vecosity, specific metals (all metals associated in engine), it will include fuel levels in the oil, it will include antifreez levels as well. The lab result will give you a definite probability as to whether your oil caused the failer or not. One good source on this information in AMSOIL.COM They offer a warry. with there oil and will give you similar information as I have here.
I hope this information helps. By no means is my infomation a bible, in fact it's insite on how I run my trucking operation. I encourage you to do vigourus research and don't take my word for it.
Plus, don't most of the newer Hondas have the oil life monitor that tells you when your oil is about to go?
For example (the odyssey). Let say five quarts of synthetic oil cost you about 29.00 plus filter (6.00). One can get an oil analysis at any Speedco ( this company does oil changes for commercial truck similar to Jiffy Lube is for cars and you get the analysis handed back to you in about 15mins.) for the mear price of $14.95. Lets say at 10,000 miles (for odyssey) your oil life monitor (which is nothing but a alogrithym) says 0% oil left. You spend $6.00 on oil filter, and 14.95 on oil analysis. That's 20.95 total and your still ahead of the money game by roughly 14.00. Now, lets say you go to 20,000 miles and do another oil analysis, that's 14.95 plus 6. Now you have saved another 14.00 or so. And so on, and so on. In the trucking world, this adds up to hundreds if not thousands a dollars a year. I myself, save about 1200 a year. In the auto market, well, depends on your preference.
Just because oil is dirty does not mean it needs to be change. Oil only has to be changed if the additives decrease beyond a recommended level or say the wear metals are unusually high. There is also what is called a TBN number. If this number drops below standard, you must change the oil. There is actually a science to all of this. I know people in commercial trucks that run over 300,000 miles on one oil change before the oil analysis says its time to change the oil. Remember, you still need to change your filters at interval, not neccessarly the oil.
Oils go so much further than the automobile manufactures will tell you. Just speek to any trucking company, any maritime operation. The best oils suspend the contamenants.
Personally, I drive 15,000 miles a year and choose to change my oil at 5,000 mile intervals. My wife drove her last car only 6,000 miles a year and I changed its oil also at 5,000 mile intervals. Sound okay? The engines in the cars I drive always look clean inside. On the other hand, my wife’s engine had heavy varnishing inside and her oil always got dirty more quickly than mine did. If you understand why that difference happened, you’ll understand a major reason why so many oil posts just plain have it wrong.
First, filtration: if your oil filter does a good job at removing harmful particulates – and that’s a big “if” with many cheap oil filters – it still does very little to remove water (which is a combustion by-product remember) and corrosives carried in solution in the oil. Routinely driving a car with the oil well above 100-degrees Celsius long enough to evacuate steam built up in the crankcase will remove most of the accumulated water – something my wife does NOT do and I should have been changing her oil far more regularly. The only effective way to remove corrosives carried in solution in your oil is to *change* your oil. Exactly how much water and corrosives you have in your oil at any given time is highly variable and dependant on many factors. Buy good filters though.
Second, oil quality: oil is made from base stocks and additive packages which can vary greatly from one brand to another. Cheap oil can go out of grade within hours and/or deplete its ad-pack very quickly given the wrong conditions. Without knowing the details of your base stocks and ad-pack and way more than you probably know about the conditions inside your engine, you can’t accurately predict exactly when you should change your oil. You can, however, choose a quality oil made from a quality base stock with a good additive package and give yourself some margin of comfort as well as peace-of-mind by choosing a reasonable changing interval.
Third, synthetics vs petroleum-based oils: synthetics oils break down in the presence of water more readily than dino oils do. In my wife’s old car, synthetic oil would have been both a poor choice and big waste of money. Alternatively, petroleum-based oils break down more easily than synthetics under high heat, load and shear. Thus, in some situations synthetic oils are preferable (high heat/load/shear but low water) while in other situations petroleum-based oils are better (lower heat but more water-vapor). Synthetic-petroleum blends can provide the benefits of both oil types but may not always be the best and most cost-effective solution. Choose wisely and don’t listen to anyone who says one particular oil is best for your situation without them knowing a LOT about YOUR situation.
Fourth, viscosity: EPA fuel-mileage figures are important to auto manufacturers and low-viscosity 5W-20 oil helps improve mpg number in NEW engines. In order to get permission to use low-viscosity 5W-20 oil during EPA fuel-mileage testing, auto manufacturers have entered into agreements with the EPA to only specify and recommend and the same 5W-20 oil used during EPA testing in the owner’s manual, at the dealer, and on the engine oil filler cap. (While the owner’s manual is allowed by the EPA to recommend alternate viscosities for weather and service extremes, the core recommendation must match the oil viscosity used in testing). If you seriously believe that 5W-20 oil is the ideal viscosity to protect your engine over its life - whether you live in Alaska or Florida - because the manufacturer says so (because the EPA makes them say it), then you, flatly, are a fool.
While mentioning the EPA with regard to oil, it’s worth bringing up the API’s (American Petroleum Institute) service classifications "SH" for years 1994-1996, "SJ" for 1997-2001, "SL" for 2001-2004, and "SM" for 2004 and newer gasoline engines. In response to EPA mandates to reduce alleged catalytic converter poisoning by engine oil additives, the above service classifications have progressively reduced allowable levels of anti-wear additives - zinc (zincdialkylditiophosphate or ZDDP) and moly (molybdenum disulfide or MoS2) being the most common ones. The newest API service classifications for gasoline (and diesel) engine oils are NOT necessarily improvements in every single respect over previous specifications. Unfortunately for your engine, some oil recommendations and specifications are more about air quality than they are about engine life so, again, choose wisely.
BOTTOM LINE: There is a lot to consider with regard to oil changes and layman's guides can’t get it 100% right – it’s too complex a subject for any simple theory to cover adequately.
BTW: I am not an engineer or a scientist but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express hotel last night.
We were away 5 weeks and stayed with our son just north of Galveston for the 1st and last week. The middle weeks we stayed in McAllen in the Rio-Grande Valley Square Dancing.
We stayed at the Microtel for $34.95/night. We would never pay the high cost of a Holiday Inn. The Microtel is owned by the Hyatt Regency of New York.
From automobile shops such as Firestone and Jiffy Lube, I was often told
that regular oil's duration was 3 months / 3000 miles and
Synthetic was around 5000-6000 miles.
Can someone clarify on this information? I heard that now, you should change the oil every 7500 miles or so. Is this assuming that I do synthetic oil change every time which costs a lot more?