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Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance



  • pkirangipkirangi Posts: 29
    There used to be topic "Honda Odyssey Extended Warrenty Discussions" . I dont see it now. Has it been moved?

  • mark60050mark60050 Posts: 2

    I have a 2000 Odyssey which I purchased in Sept 1999. It only has 79K miles. According to the owner's manual the timing belt should be replaced after 7 years. I was wondering if it was a necessary change or whether I could hold off a couple of years since the dealer suggests it cost $750. Moreover, he says checking it for wear costs about half. Note, I am still well under the 105K mile recommended change.

    By the way, has anyone tried having their timing belt replaced by someone other then the dealer?

  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    Bad things can happen if the timing belt fails. Check around for better prices from Honda dealers. I've found a dealer that charges $400.00 and you can get 10 or 15% coupons off from their internet site also.

    I checked with one independent shop and their price was same as most dealers.

    They should check out the water pump and idler pulley while they have it apart and probably replace the drive belts at that time also.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,744
    They should check out the water pump and idler pulley while they have it apart...

    You might as well replace those parts while they are doing it. They have to come out to replace the belt so it's cheap to do it now.
  • orlandoflorlandofl Posts: 9
    mark60050, I have a 2000 Odyssey, and just went through the same dilemma that you're going through; same mileage, same age.

    I agree with dsrtrat2 and robr2. You should have them replace the water pump at the same time.

    The reason that it's so expensive is the amount of time that it takes. I bought the official service manual and when I read through all the steps involved, I knew I was in over my head.

    The reason that you change the water pump at the same time is because, if the water pump fails AFTER you've changed the timing belt, you have to get in there, again, with the same labor charge.

    I phoned around and found an independent shop that would replace the timing belt AND the water pump and tensioner belt and seals for $675 ($575 timing belt only). I believe your price of $750 from the dealer was just for the timing belt.

    I went for it because I've heard too many horror stories about a broken timing belt. After talking to quite a few people about this, they all claimed that we should easily get 200,000 miles out of these Hondas.

    I justified the investment by thinking that maybe my van was only half way through its life. After seeing what a 2000 Odyssey is currently worth (not much), I figure it's worth it to keep it for another 7 years (if possible.)

    Also, when you consider how much I've spent on maintenance over the course of 7 years, it's been very little. I've been lucky and have never had a major issue with my van.

    I found Orlando Honda-Acura, which is run by 2 former Honda service technicians. They're eager to grow their business and they did a great job at a great price (gotta give 'em a plug.)

    I hope you're able to find a local shop in your area. Good luck.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    another option, call around to various dealers. see if they have coupons on-line. they don't all charge the same for this sort of maintenance.
  • ocuihsocuihs Posts: 138
    DAYCO Part # 84093 {Water Pump Driven by Timing Belt,Interference Engine / Timing Belt Not Included}
    Kit ---> $48.79

    HONDA Part # 14400P8AA02OE {Timing Belt #14400P8AA02} --> $44.79
  • jasheltonjashelton Posts: 1
    My wife started having trouble a couple of months ago getting her '03 Odyssey out of Park. I took off the plastic steering column cover yesterday and noticed a part that was not moving that was supposed to move when the brake was applied. Any ideas on what needs to be done?
  • mom24asdsmom24asds Posts: 2
    We took our 2001 odyssey to Tunex the other day for a tune-up. It has about 87,500 miles. When my husband picked up the van, after about a block of driving he noticed that the SRS light was on. He immediately took it back to Tunex who told him, (of course) that the SRS light suddenly turning on had nothing to do with them. They changed the spark plugs and that's about it. Any ideas on why the SRS light would go on all of the sudden? oh yea, my husband also mentioned that the seatbelt (driver's) was stuck and he had to pull on it two or three times to get it to come out. Could that have been something from Tunex, or is it a problem w/the seatbelts in 2001's? Thanks
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    which light? the one on the instrument cluster, or the one on the dash closest to the rear fan speed control?
  • mom24asdsmom24asds Posts: 2
    The one on the instrument cluster by the other lights that go on and off as you start up the engine - by the speedometer
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Posted 'bout this a while ago. My 2007 Ody-EX (no cylinder deactivation) has been knocking (I mean clattering - badly).

    Dealer had the car nearly two-weeks and had Honda techline and a rep from Honda check it out - finally replaced a rocker arm in the front cylinder bank and pronounced it fixed. However, car continues to knock under load (if I put in drive, step on the brake, and feed gas until the RPM's load up to around 2000 rpm, its easy to hear).

    We tried topping off a 5/8 full tank of regular gas with C-16 (racing fuel, 116 octaine) and the knocking pretty much stopped, only to gradually return as the tank emptied.

    I know that, normally, the solution for knocking is to up the fuel-to-air ratio. Service manager (who was working on the car himself) says car was "stoichiometric" (he defined as "ideal air/fuel ratio") when the Honda Rep scoped it on their laptop, that increasing the fuel ratio will mess with my (already poor) mileage, and that he does not have the software to adjust the ratio without bringing Honda Rep guy back anyway.

    My questions are:

    (1) How much beyond "Stoichiometric" can we safely increase the fuel-to-air ratio without totally trainwrecking mileage figures, and

    (2) Is the service manager's inability to make that adjustment without a Honda Rep coming back true or just BS?

    I should add that I like this service manager - he certainly seems like he's been trying to fix it (spent a lot of time on it and explaining things to me) and I don't want to call Honda Corporate and get them breathing down his neck.

    Oh - almost forgot - as far as I know, he checked the knock-sensor and found nothing wrong with it.

    However, I want my car fixed already as we are leaving for a long road-trip in two weeks.

    What say y'all?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    yeah, ok, conceptually, if you put different fuel in the thing and it doesn't knock, i'd say, it's not adjusting the timing of the ignition to compensate for knock properly.

    it's either the sensor, or wiring to same -or-
    the PCM
    or the MAF
    or your timing is way off.

    did they check the timing? have them prove to you it is correct now. after you have proof your timing is correct and it's in writing...

    demand, i mean demand they swap your pcm and knock sensors out. maybe also the MAF.

    i'd say it's not fixed, and possibly time to call corporate. i would not take the vehicle on a long road trip. in fact, it would not go on any trip, except back to the dealer, and possibly to a different dealer if i had to.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    PCM has already been changed (remember? A while back you and I had a discussion where you the PCM issue on this car confused with the check engine light issue I've been having on my '04 Accord V-6). Don't know if they changed the knock-sensor or just tested it.

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    ok, so my memory isn't very good. ;)

    now then, they check the sensor and it's ok, and they replace the pcm.

    now i'm thinking something in the wiring harness from / to the pcm is faulty.

    of course, this doesn't rule out the possibility the timing is still not right.

    then there is the issue of the MAF which could be mis-metering the air intake.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    did they check your spark plugs? are all the plugs intact? do they have the proper gap?
  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    Have an '06 ODY with 62k miles. Have changed the ATF at 30k and 60k. New tires recently. Car sounds like you are driving on a brick street until you get below 20 MPH. Had it in for an oil change today and couldn't duplicate the sound while on a test drive.

    Any ideas what could be causing this? The sound was there before I put on the new tires.
  • fqadrifqadri Posts: 2
    I got a great quote for 2007 odyssey EX from MD dealership sports honda,MD Total OTD = $26442.00 (Including all fees). I live in VA and was wondering do I have to pay my VA taxes again at the DMV. Is there any disdvantages buying it from MD dealer while I live in VA ??
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,170
    You pay the taxes to the state where you register the car.

    If you buy in MD., the only way you should pay the dealer taxes is if they are collecting for VA, and doing the VA DMV work. It is actually fairly common I think for dealers close to the obrder to do this.

    If the MD dealer doesn't collect taxes, you will have to pay them at VA DMV when you register.

    Be real careful if you are comparing OTD prices from dealers in each state. The VA one might be including all your taxes, and the MD one might not be. Get a detailed breakdown.

    This is actually a question best directed at the dealer where you plan to buy the car. They certainly will know.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • gotampsgotamps Posts: 3

    Call me a conspiracy theorist but I think the scheduled maintenance scared into us by dealers is overkill. Am I wrong? The 2 dealers near me want close to $500 for a 30k mile service. I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey, and have performed regular oil changes and tire rotations. My 2005 Odyssey is now at 45k miles on the odometer, I just replaced all 4 original tires - and am wondering what are really the maintenance things I should do to it. I think dealer servicing is a rippoff with a capital R. What do people think about having theirs serviced at local service stations? Are they as good? My Odyssey is out of warranty now anyhow, so I am just interested in doing what is necessary as cheaply (I'm cheap) as possible.


    Thanks!!! :shades:
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