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Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance

zzoom1zzoom1 Posts: 31
edited March 20 in Mazda
11,000 miles with no problems other than 2 dealer recalls. I have noticed that my 2.5 tends to use a little oil, a little less than a quart between changes at 3 to 4k intervals. So keep an eye on oil level. I have also heard that Purolator or Motorcraft filters might be best for the 2.5 duratec due ot the presence of an anti-drain back device. No big deal as Purolators are easy to find and generally only about 1 or 2 bucks more than a Fram. Other than that, just a lot of fun driving.
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Comments

  • camlamarcacamlamarca Posts: 40
    I've got 26k miles on my (7/99 mfg) 2000 MPV LX. Toyo Tires 205/65/15, are already shot. I received a recall sticker for the tire specs, and am now confused. Did I get bad tires? What am I supposed put on? I know the size, but am concerned about the P in front of the 205, and the 92H or 94H spec. I don't want to thrash another set so soon because they are under speced.

    Of course, I am also wondering if a wider 215/60/15 would be more appropriate. The edges wore especially bad, even after a warranty alignment.
  • gagpgagp Posts: 32
    Don't worry, "P" only stands for "Passenger". You'll get all the information you need just by clicking on the link below:

    http://www.yokohamatire.com/04a1a.html

    Silver (but no passenger) Driver
  • camlamarcacamlamarca Posts: 40
    Are you the same Silver Driver I remember from way back in Oct - Dec 1999 when the 2000MPV discussions started? You've been around long enough, how did your tires do? Did you get noticeable wear on the outside edges? Because I've had mine aligned and toe checked, I'm attributing it to the small width on a tall vehicle putting above expected pressue on the sidewall. Hence, I'm considering a wider tire.

    Thanks for the link. What I still don't understand is the Load Index 92 vs 94. The "P" tires commonly stocked and cheaper have 92, but the new spec is 94. Do you know what this means?

    I'm going to understand this before the sales guy sells me something that fits, but wears poorly.
  • cutter44cutter44 Posts: 42
    Just curious. I notice that many of the owners here have switched to synthetic oil.Does it really make a difference when you change it every 3-5k miles? Also, are you changing your own oil? If so, how do you deal with the waste oil? I know service stations are supposed to take it, but don't you feel awkward bringing them used oil after doing your own oil change? And if you don't bring it to them, what do you do with it? I remember in my youth (when I didn't know any better), just burying it in the back yard, but nowadays, that could get you a visit from the DEP or worse.
  • dougseydougsey Posts: 20
    Our town's transfer station has a container where you can dump your used oil. They in turn give, or sell it to a recycler.

    I am also having the synthetic/plain oil debate in my own mind. I've always used plain oil and changed it every 3k but that was on used cars. I've only got 300 miles on the MPV so I've got a couple weeks to decide :@).
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    I think the decision to use dyno oil (from dynosaurs) or synth oil is more important to some than others. Personally, I like using the synth oils because they give much better performance in the cold weather we have up here. If you leave 10-30wt oil outside at, say -10F, and open the can and pour it out, it'll come out like honey or like playdough. With a synthetic oil, it flows to much lower temperatures, giving better protection. Just think how hard it would be to pump playdough up through your engine before the lack of lube destroys the moving parts.

    There are many advantages of synthetic oils, imo, flow characteristics, resistance to heat breakdown, lower friction levels. A drawback to synth oil is that if you have a tiny oil leak, then, synthetic oil will leak better than dyno oil.

    IMHO, using synthetic oil is just cheap insurance for keeping your engine running well.

    --java
  • cinka1cinka1 Posts: 30
    Since you are using the syth. oil, how long do you go in between changes? The manual recommends 7,500 for my driving conditions (Normal) but everyone - even the Mazda dealer - says 3,000.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Hi Cinka1!

    I'm a worry wart, so I still change oil every 3mths/3,000 miles even with synthetics. I only do this for 2 reasons: a)Dear-ol-Dad taught me that way, and 2)It's common practice with turbo-charged cars, and that's what I'm used to. This usually comes out to be every 2200 miles with the amount of driving in our household. I'd say it's overkill, but figure it's cheap insurance. There's prolly nothing wrong with going 5k to 7.5k on synthetic oils unless you're either towing or driving the car hard.

    my 2.6cents. ;-)

    --java
  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Posts: 89
    This may be a little old, but I'd thought I'd put a little wisdom in.

    Don't listen to the oil change centers, car dealerships, etc. in determining your oil change intervals, They'll always chant their mantra - 3k miles. The reason? You'll see them more often and therefore give them more money! Each engine is different - some cars require the 3k interval (turbos, 4 cylinder engine, high-rev engines), but most don't (including V-6's and V-8's). It's safe and advisable to follow the manufacturer's recommendation in your owner's manual (according to many studies). It also produces less waste and is a better management of our natural resources. If you're still concerned, follow the "extreme conditions" intervals rather than the "normal conditions". I plan to change mine every 5k after the first so it's easier to remember!
  • I totally agree with you. I used to be very, very anal about over maintaining my car. Now, i've taken a little less stressful approach.
    I read a study done by Consumer Reports- which tested the difference b/w oil changed taxis in NYC (each w/ a newly built engine).
    One car changed their oil every 3K
    Another- every 7K (or something like that)
    The Bottom line, not a very noticable difference... very insignificant difference in engine wear (tiny)

    I always held the same sentiment as j2kbarlow... how the garages/oil change centers always say, "of course you need to change your oil every 2500 or 3000 miles"... we want YOUR MONEY!!!!

    I'm settlin' for about 5K to be somewhere in the middle.

    Peace.

    PastorGumby
  • cutter44cutter44 Posts: 42
    While looking through the dealchat forum this morning, I came upon a thread about oil changes (we've been known to go off topic sometimes) and I thought of the folks here who also seem quite knowledgeable. You may find it interesting. Here's the link:

    http://dealchat.com/mac/read.html?id=479637&thread=479637
  • toby_laitoby_lai Posts: 22
    Hi there,

    Just picked up my '01 MPV yesterday, and now I have this question...

    I've been reading the discussion "2000+ MPV problems" on the vans forum the past few days, and saw a lot of post were concerned with the oil leaking/filter problem with the MPV. I've always changed the oil myself on my cars, whenever possible. After reading those posts, I'm having second thoughts about doing it myself. For those of you doing the oil change yourself, are you doing anything differently on the MPV compare to other cars? For example I normally just tighten the oil filter by hand, and I heard that for the MPV you need to tighten it with a wrench, and things like that. I don't want to risk doing it myself and having some sort of filter blowout and burn up the engine.

    TIA for any advice, and I apologize if this post is too long.
  • mwrigh1mwrigh1 Posts: 3
    I cant seem to find the cabin air filter on out 2000 ES. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Mike
  • msgjvhmsgjvh Posts: 196
    Mike,

    You have to remove the glove box. This will take a little bit of muscling of the box to the left I believe then pulling. You also have to get it past the stops, but it is double. Once you remove it you will see a small door to the AC unit. You open that door and the air filter actually wraps around the a squirrel cage.

    A new filter will cost you about $35-40 bucks.

    MSGJVH
  • dougseydougsey Posts: 20
    I did my first oil change about 3 weeks ago. Used the filter wrench and cranked the new OEM filter 1 full turn after gasket contact. So far all is well! (knock on wood) :@>
  • toby_laitoby_lai Posts: 22
    Thanks for the info. The owner's manual and the engine oil filler cap both specify the type of motor oil to be used is 5W-20, is that the required type of motor oil, or can I also use 5W-30 or 10W-30? Thanks.
  • msgjvhmsgjvh Posts: 196
    The 5-20 requirement is mainly so that Mazda can say they pass California emissions. My dealer has assured me that running 5-30 will not void any warranty. Again, it depends on your particular area. 5-30 is a good all around oil to use.
  • drrocketdrrocket Posts: 67
    While I can't say I've noticed any difference switching to synthetic motor oil, I CAN say I've noticed an appreciable difference since switching to synthetic ATF. Of course it's subjective, but the shifts do seem to be smoother. Based on my very limited experience (my switch to synthetic ATF took place only this afternoon), I would highly recommend the upgrade, especially if rough shifting perturbs you.
  • toby_laitoby_lai Posts: 22
    So did you bring the van to the dealer for the sync ATF change (well do they endorse it in the first place)? And what's the mileage when you did that? Thanks.
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