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Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance

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  • d5ad5a Posts: 64
    I looked all over the instrustions and no number to be found. Going to call the dealership in the morning but doubt I will have much luck. It took them over two weeks just to get it in when i ordered it. Oh well. Anyone had the same problem? If so would love to know were you found the plastic clips.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,629
    Oh good, you ordered it from a dealer. So it's probably a factory part, meaning it has a warranty.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    The same thing happened to me when I installed the hood deflector on my 2004 MPV. Unless those clips are lined up perfectly they are very easy to break. That the melon heads at Mazda didn't include a couple extra 5 cent plastic clips is ridiculous.

    I called the Mazda dealership and they said they could order a kit, which included clips, metal brackets and the 3m tape for $34. That's right... $34 for about 30 cents worth of plastic clips. Anywho, I went to an auto parts store(Autozone)and bought a variety pack of clips for a couple bucks... you may get lucky and find the exact size. The closest clip to fitting was just a couple hairs to big. So, I drilled out a slightly larger hole in the metal bracket and it worked fine. No problems in the 2 years since I installed it. :)
  • ok.. they replaced the transmission (78k miles).. under warranty at least (big fan of the extended warranty on this car at least!). I got it back on monday.. still seemed to not drive correctly.. jerked and over revved and there was a bad burining oil smell. Then I brought it in.. they said that yes, apparently transmission was bad so they would replace it.. AGAIN. They just called me and said.. no not transmission but actually all the problems are not transmission at all but rather caused by burned out ignition coils.. that is covered under the warranty so that is fine.. but I am getting VERY worried.. in the past month the car has had ignition coils replaced, transmission replaced, oil pan replaced, bearings replaced, rotor/brake work done.. I am at a loss for why all of these things would go bad at roughly the same time.. has anyone else had this type of thing happen? I do regular maintenance.. change the oil regularly and drive just normal suburban driving.. no accidents...I have never felt like this about any other car.. like things are going wrong constantly. While the mileage is getting up there ..it is also not that high. I thought cars could and should routinely last til 100k miles...? It is mazda cars.. is it the MPV or is it that my expectations are out of whack?
  • d5ad5a Posts: 64
    Anyone know the best thing to do about surface paint scratches? My 3 year old decided to clean off the Van with a piece of ice. Now my drivers door has tons of scratches in the paint. Tried wax but the scratches are still there. The van is dark green so the scratches show up pretty well. Any advise or tips would be great. :(

    Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Must have had sand or small gravel in the ice to be so deep. I would think a good body shop would be able to buff out the scratches if they are superfical, and aren't thru the clearcoat into the paint.
  • d5ad5a Posts: 64
    Thanks for the advise. I was thinking thats what i may have to do. I don't metal at all just surface scratches but they are noticeable. Was hoping the wax would take them out but it didn't work. Didn't know if there was a product around to remove that that someone had used that really worked and didn't damage the van.

    Thanks again for your help!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    You're welcome. Should be an easy and inexpensive fix.

    I got some surface scratches the other day when I backed the Buick against our hedges. :sick: They came out fairly easily though.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,629
    If they are just surface scratches, a "paint crayon" may make them unnoticeable. These are available at auto parts and discount stores (usually in a set with various colors) and they are like a big crayon--you rub it into the scratch, let it set awhile, then rub off the residue. I've used them with good success on my dark blue MPV (I use the black crayon) and other cars over the years. After you put some wax over the touch-up, light scratches are invisible.
  • My problem started late fall. First thing in the am or if the car sat for a long time and it was cold out.. my brakes would be really stiff.. I would have to stand on them practically..or if I had time sit there and pump them and all of a sudden they would depress and work fine. First I went to my local garage thinking it was just low brake fluid. They flushed the lines..refilled the brake fluid and checked my brakes.. said everything was fine. I still had the problem..so went to my dealer (had an extended warranty).. explained the problem.. they said it was some problem with the brake lines decaying and some issue with the rotors.. the line decaying was under warranty the rotors wasn't...300 dollars latter I'm on my way.. problem still exists.. I brought it in again.. explained the problem was still there.. this time they kept it over night.. encountered the problem and said that there was some sensor issue that made the brakes think I was accelerating and that they fixed it. It has been fine.. but this week with weather dropping the problem is back. Does anyone have any idea what is going on...I am in Norther VA.. had this car for 5 years and this winter is the only time I have encountered this problem. I don't want to take it back to the dealer without having an idea of what direction to point them in as they don't seem capable of diagnosing the problem them selves!
  • john269john269 Posts: 3
    My dealer recommended cleaning the fuel injectors on my 2003 MPV (for about $100) at 15K and 30K and I declined both times. It is now time for 45K, and I wonder whether others out there think that this is worth it - I do not see it listed in the handbook as a necessary service item.

    Thanks
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I don't think it necessary if the van is running fine. Buy a $15 dollar bottle of the Techron Fuel Injection cleaner if you are concerned. Better than paying the dealership $100.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I know this is an age old question but my check eng. light came on over the weekend for no apparent reason...other than maybe for a 'scheduled maint'? Should I be concerned and run for the dealer immediately or just ignore it for a while.
    Vehicle runs fine....fingers crossed!

    My new front rack is still solid after 2000 miles on it.
    Thank God for the extended warranty I bought!
    Hope that if the tranny goes it goes in the next 18K miles!!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I'd get it looked at. Autozone will check it for free.

    The one thing I do know to check for is to make sure that the gas cap is on tight. My check eng. light came on in my Buick and that was the problem.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,629
    My 2002 MPV just turned 5 and is nearing its 60k service interval. I know this is the Biggie but on the MPV it doesn't seem to be as major as on some cars, e.g. no timing belt replacement needed and not even a transmission flush is mentioned in the maintenance schedule. So my question is, what services other than the Mazda recommended services should I do at 60k? Should I do a tranny flush for example? (note, the van has a bumper-to-bumper, zero deductible warranty on it) I'll do a tire rotation since it's due for that, and at the 52.5k service they noted the brakes were getting thin, so those might need work (although no mention of a problem at 56.25k even though they said they looked at the brakes). Also planning on changing the air filters (engine and cabin). Anything else? Also can anyone give me an idea of what a dealer charges for the 60k service?
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I'm the one that had the CHECK ENGINE light on a while ago.
    Finally went into my friendly Bear dealer to see what the issue would be and held my breath. Well, the problem was a collapsed PCV hose assembly with a crack! This had been fixed before at 36K miles under the RECALL!! Now they would not replace it unless I paid the $290 for the diagnostic and the $86 part!! I got on the phone with Customer Service and they acted shocked that it would not be covered, but only would offer me a $100 GIFT CERTIFICATE to use on future Mazda work!! My extended MAZDA warranty - the one that has been so good in the past, would not cover this hose issue....normal maintenance..right!!!
    My biggest issue is that Mazda will not stand behind a recalled and previously fixed part on a SECOND REPAIR! I've never heard of this before. I've owned Dodges, Toyotas, Chevy's and they all always repair the item since they know it's a bad design. Mazda sucks it and they won't budge!
    Anyone else had this issue before???
    Sincerely disgusted Mazda owner with a lemon in the making at 83K miles. If anyone else has had this issue, we should get together and form a group to send letters to the boys of M and let them know this is not right!
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    They charge alot! $300 at least...so be ready.
    The cabin filter is about 100 alone to change.
    I bought mine aftermarket out of a Mazda parts place in TX. and had them install. Price was discounted on the part to $45 and the labor was $20. Other than that, they want plugs changed that don't need changing until 100K miles, filter, tire stuff, etc. Be ready. I have the no deduct. warranty too and am flying on that to save some of the pain for the future. Can you tell I'm a bit peeved at MAZDA due to my other issue mentioned on an earlier email? :mad:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,629
    Thanks. Maybe I'll go ahead and change the air/cabin filters myself and try to save a few bucks. I know how to access the air filter, not sure on the cabin filter. I'll watch out on the plugs also--we'll be getting rid of the van before 100k miles (before the transferrable warranty expires) so I might not change the plugs if it will be pricey, and if it's not required by the Mazda service schedule. Tires are good (non original), but brakes may need work (not unexpected for 60k miles). The van is working just fine, fortunately. Bought it used last year. Maybe I got a good one.
  • bob57bob57 Posts: 302
    You're probably going to hate me with this one...

    My 2001 "Red" turned 107,500 (or more - I forget) last week. I have replaced the battery twice, the plastic water reservoir tank (leaked like a sponge), and the drive belt once. Other than that - it ain't broke...yet. It starts just fine on the first spin (Looking where the plugs are located (eeek) hasn't excited me - so haven't touched them). I drive mostly freeways (in Houston more like 4 lane parking lots) and consistent 21~22 MPG with A/C on all the time (Remember - Houston...).

    Of course, Something may go south soon but so far this has been the best auto I've owned. Someone at the factory really did this one right.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    '02+ can have issues with the coils on each plug, especially the rear bank. Tranny fluid should be changed at 60k, at least every 20-30k miles. The cabin and air filters are DIY-ers, no doubt. Glove box just needs to come out for the cabin filter (multiple screws on the glove box). The air filter is just a matter of unsnapping the air box clamps and moving the top far enough off to remove and install the new filter. Be careful with any hoses and connections around the air filter when moving it around.

    -Brian
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