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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

brian60brian60 Posts: 76
edited July 16 in Nissan
i'm here first. ummm . . . i wash my PF when it gets dirty and change the oil every 5000 miles . . . hello? . . . is this thing on? . . .
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Comments

  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    Use Zaino to make the Pathy shiny bright -- www.zaino.com to order.
  • I'm taking delivery on my 2001 Pathfinder SE 4WD with 5-sp manual transmission tomorrow.

    I plan to change the oil at 500 miles, and use the regular stuff (no synthetic yet). Then at 3,000 mile intervals after that.

    Anyone have any other advice for proper break-in procedures? What about that old thing about not driving it above 55 mph for the first 500 miles? Has that gone the way of the dodo?
  • as i later learned, the 55 mph limit was a legal decision, not an engineering one (never made much sense to me in any case). basic precaution is to not run the engine over 4000 rpm during the first 1000 miles. FYI, the maintenance intervals on PFs is 3750/7500 miles, so changing every 3000 and definately at 500 is overkill.
  • the 3000 mile changing isn't necessarily overkill. the initial oil change whether it be at 500 or 1000 is just a recommendation i've heard from every board i've checked. as for 3000 or 3750, that's based more on your driving style.
  • well, considering that Nissan says you can wait 3750 miles (assuming severe schedule) before you do the first oil change, i'd say it's overkill. i think their IC engine engineers probably know their product better than we ever will. with the quality of oil additives and engine components these days, i dare say that many people are still living in the carbuerated and leaded days of yesteryear, still fearful of throttle-by-wire and 3k+ oil change intervals. johnskev, i'm not necessarily implying that you're one of these people, but the people posting to the boards you read just might be. then again, my PF might blow up at 75k, and i will have a learned a life lesson. oh well, i'm about 24k miles past caring, so have a great weekend.
  • Anybody here buy the Service Manual? I had one for my '95 Camaro, paid about $100 for it, and felt that it paid for itself over the past 6 years.

    Now I find that Nissan wants $275 for their manual, and $210 for the CD version. What a rip-off! That's enough to make me think maybe it won't pay for itself.

    Anybody out there who has the manual would like to comment?

    Also, if you don't have the manual, what are other good reference service docs for the PF?

    One question I'd like to look up right off is where the in-cabin microfilter is located. I want to check to see that I actually have one, since I paid for it!

    Thanks,
    Howie
  • li_sailorli_sailor Posts: 1,081
    The shop manual has been discussed a few times in the main PF forum...see posts 493, 498, 1033, 1035 and 1037. I'm about to buy it (the CD) myself. As someone else said, one fix will probably pay for it. Even though the owner's manual (the one that comes with the PF) is good as a "user's guide", it has almost no maint info.
  • loboyloboy Posts: 75
    The microfilter is located behind the glove box which you'll have to remove to get at the filters (qty of 2). If I recall, I think there's six screws you have to remove and a couple of pins at the bottom of the glove box (pretty easy). The Nissan microfilter I bought came with a couple of stickers that says the vehicle has the microfilter and how often it needs to be changed (7500 mi) and a spot to write when it was last changed. You may want to check for these stickers inside the glove box (if the port or dealer installed them). Hope this helps.
  • li_sailor and loboy,

    Thanks so much for that info. I'm leaning towards getting the shop manual now, because I plan on keeping this car for a long time, and enjoy doing my own work/maintenance.

    I checked my glove compartment, and there is a sticker in there that states exactly when the filter was installed (about a month ago: 01 01 06, 2 km).

    Took the car to New Orleans this weekend. Varied the RPMs on the highway, and kept it under 4,000 (between 2500 and 3500). Now it's got 480 miles, up from just 4 when I got it two days ago. I love this car!
  • loboyloboy Posts: 75
    You're welcome. Glad you're enjoying your PF as well.
  • Anybody know the best way to remove that annoying dealer's logo sticker from the tailgate, without scratching the clearcoat?

    It's not a window so I hesitate to put a razor blade to it.

    Thanks,
    Howie
  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    I just used good 'ol WD-40 and my thumbnail the last time I did this. The WD-40 lubricant seems to break down the adhesive and the thumbnail is blunt enough to prevent scratching the clearcoat. Once you've managed to 'pry off' some of the sticker, it should be easy to peel off as long as you go very slowly and carefully.

    I'm like you, I hate dealer advertisements on the vehicle. It's bad enough that they made money off of the vehicle purchase, the customer has to advertise for them with those stickers. Puhleeeaaaasseeee.....
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,016
    You could also try using a hairdryer to soften the glue so that the sticker peels away.

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • Okay, I'm taking the plunge and ordering the Service Manual.

    On the site, it makes a distinction between PFs with VIN "up to 550000" and then from "550001." This refers to the last 6 digits of the VIN, right? Why is there a difference?

    Secondly, there has been much talk about the squishy brakes, and one interesting post (#503) about breaking in the brakes. Has anyone here bled the brakes personally (as opposed to having the dealer do it), and if so, did you actually find air in the lines? Any problems/difficulties?

    What's the recommended brake fluid?

    Thanks!

    --Howie
  • Has anybody been able to obtain this for less than the $210? Or is that price pretty much locked in?
  • I've seen them made out of acrylic, cotton and wool.

    Those of you who like to hand-wash your cars, which kind of wash mitt do you prefer and why?

    The wool one seems very soft, but I always think of wool as scratchy and not soft. What do you think?
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,016
    I prefer cotton myself. And I don't buy the mitts. Baby diapers work just as well. After all, if it's good enough for a baby's bottom...:-)

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • swfanswfan Posts: 4
    Aaaaahhhh!!! Please don't use a razor blade on the Pathy! We just got ours and simply told the dealer to remove the sticker. I then took my Durango (I know, I know, they are a maintenance NIGHTMARE, but I only found this board after buying it!!) back to the dealer and had them take it off of it too. They use a real hot air gun (hotter than a hair dryer) and it peels right off w/ no residue or anything. And that way, if they damaged the paint, it is their fault.

    Okay, now onto my question: we just bought a 2001 LE. Needless to say, it is fantastic. I am a big proponent of following the break-in period, but the car already had 160 miles on it. I know some of those are highway (drove down from another dealership 60+ miles away) and I assume the rest are test drives. Should I be concerned that the engine may have been floored & reved above 4000 rpm? Clearly the other 840 miles in the break-in period will be to the letter of the manual. Please give me your thoughts...
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    I've found an isopropyl alchohol and distilled water 50/50 mix will safely remove most stickers. I'd try that before heat.

    As for the breakin procedures, the RPM limit refers to sustained RPMs. Unless someone drove the vehicle at 80-100 MPH for a long period (unlikely) you should be ok. What the manufacturer is trying to avoid with these break-in periods, is overheating of the parts that are "self-machining" themselves to fit (rings, gear mesh, etc.). The overheating only occurs if they are operated at high speed for extended periods. In fact, it's a good idea to rev the engine to reasonably high RPM for short bursts once in a while. That way you don't end up with excessive "ridges" on the top of the cylinder walls (some "machining" is done in places it might not occur if "granny driven"). At any rate, with modern machining tolerances, there is very little "self machining" left to do, so it's not as big a deal as it used to be.
  • swfanswfan Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice. One less thing I have to worry about =)
  • How/where do you lube the propeller shaft on a 4wd PF?

    Thanks
  • I have a 2001 SE. Does Nissan make a special filter wrench to remove the oil filter? I tried removing it with a strap wrench I have but I couldn't get it on and have any room to move the handle? If Nissan doesn't have a wrench does anybody know who does. The oil filter is very small.
  • I just used a large pair of Channel-Lock pliers. The can gets crushed slightly but I'm throwing it away anyhow. Your not supposed to tighten them that much, my next one will come off much easier. My fiance's Jetta was much harder, I ended up using some rope wrapped around a screwdriver to make my own wrench along with the channel locks and it finally came free. Of course I don't put them back on that tight and I haven't needed any tools since.
  • You need to get one of those "end-caps" (not the real name, i don't think) that fits over the hex end of the filter. it looks like a really shallow cup and has a square hole so you can plug a socket wrench into the back of it. in the future however, you should really only torque the filter hand tight when installing it, so that you don't have a lot of problems removing it in the future.
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    brian60: There is only 1 lube fitting on the 4wd it's in the splined
    slipjoint. To lube the u-joints they have to be disassembled. Years
    ago on my 510 I installed u-joints with fittings on them. Cheers
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    An option to lubing the filter seal with engine oil I have used Dow Corning
    #4 compound (DC#4) Silicone grease. The filter always turns off by hand
    when the engine is still warm.
  • I got the Service Manual yesterday and it's very cool. A couple of questions about it, for those of you who also have it.

    1) It refers to Type A vs. Type B, but never defines what the difference is between the two. The Owner's Manual does the same thing. Does anybody know to what they are referring with the distinction between Type A and Type B?

    2) I was hoping there would be a comprehensive layout of the entire engine compartment, but I couldn't find one. For instance, I was looking for a diagram to see exactly where that ambient air temperature sensor is. I know it's located somewhere forward of the radiator, but they don't show a picture of where. The closest I could come was to look at one of the wiring harness diagrams, which implied the location, but it never went so far as to show what the sensor looks like, how it's attached, etc.

    Please let me know if you've found a section that I didn't!

    --Howie
  • li_sailorli_sailor Posts: 1,081
    Mine's arriving today...I'll check it out.
  • ac6000cw,
    You need a 'F' size oil filter wrench. I got mine at AutoZone for $2.99. Same wrench at PepBoys is $4.99. Cheers, AW
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    When you refer to "Type A & Type B" what part of the manual are you
    referring to? When Nissan publishes there service manuals I think they only have service centers in mind. They don't go into exact detail where some things are located. Sometimes you have to use your own experience on how to do some maintanence procedures,ie. adjust the brakes?.....Steve
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