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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

1911131415

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  • same here...although more like around 1 mpg improvement. I did this over the winter for my 2001 LE to deal with the fact that when temps dropped well below freezing, the center diff would lock until it warmed up (acted like it was in PT 4HI). Ended up switching everything to synthetic (engine, diffs, transfer case, tranny). I immediately noticed improved straight-line performance and better mileage.
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    has anyone ever replaced the whimpy horn on their Pathy? How hard is it, and is the new horn a low note, or high note? I want a loud American car horn sounding blast!
  • deebardacdeebardac Posts: 23
    The software update was a modification to the oxygen sensor programme, specifically P0138 (rear O2S, Bank 1 Maximum Voltage Monitoring)
  • Thanks. Sounds like they've increased the threshold for O2 sensor warnings by the emissions control system. They were probably getting too many false alarms.
  • joe233joe233 Posts: 43
    I'm coming up on 60K miles on my 2001 LE 4x4. So far my Pathfinder is still running great, no squeaks & rattles like friends with similar age/milage domestic SUVs.
    Are there any major scheduled maintence items the Pathy needs to keep going strong like valve adjustments, repacking wheel bearings, etc?
    I had the 30K special service at dealer(which was mainly just "checks") but otherwise I've just been changing the oil & rotating the tires.
  • fyrftrfyrftr Posts: 1
    While driving my 1998 chilkoot to work, the check engine light came on. The manual says it could be because the gas cap was not put on properly. sure enmough that was the problem, however the light will not go out. Does anybody know how to reset this so that the light turns off or will it go out over time. ( other than the bulb burning out )

    fyrftr@blackplanet.com
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    Technically, "service engine soon". It will go out after a number of key on/off sequences (including start and run) during which the ECU sees no problem. I think it was six or something like that I read. I suspect you can't force it by just switching the key on and off.
  • joe233joe233 Posts: 43
    Has anyone had 60K+ servicing done? How much did it cost and is it worth it? What are the high dollar servicing cost as the Pathfinder gets up there in milage? My 2001 just broke 60K miles.
  • joe233joe233 Posts: 43
    Nissan wants $280 for front brake job on 4wd. Does this sound right or would I be better off going to a brake specialty shop?
  • I have a 2003 pathfinder se. It just started blowing the ELECTRIC B 7.5 amp fuse. Dealership has had no luck finding the problem so far. This fuse knocks out the interior lighting, alarm, power locks and resets the tripometer to 0. I had a satellite radio installed a year ago and that has been checked and is not the problem. Has anybody else had this problem? It can go anywhere from a day to a week before it blows again. Only things that have been on when it blows are ac/defrost, lights and radio. Please Help.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I remember reading how to reset the SES light on here before but I can't find it. Anyone know how to do this without the scanner? Also, can you erase the stored trouble codes as well?
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Warning, do so will reset all electrical devices.

    Engine off with key in the ignition on the "On" position, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Reconnect neg. terminal after 20 minutes or so with key out of ignition (Longer wait if you want to make sure to use up all residual power).

    Should reset DTC codes but some codes that are activated with ignition "on" position will not go away until problem is resolved.
  • Anyone familiar with the Pathfinder

    Rear Passenger side Drum Brakes Locking up?

     

    I have a 1999.5 Pathfinder SE with 50,000 miles.

    and occasionally like 5 or 6 times in last 6 months the Rear passenger drum brake locks on

    and you can smell the Pads wearing and it is Hot?

    Also sometime you can here a low buzzing like

    electronical motor stuck on or something when it happens? Then if you let it sit it just stop and can be fine for another month? Very Strange?

     

    Just curious if anyone has any input before I start tearing it apart...

    We rarely use the emergency break and yes the emergency break is off when the problem happens. It only seem to be the rear passenger side not the driver side and front breaks are fine. Front pads changed around 36K

     

    Thanks for any thoughts

    Sharky
  • About six months ago, Midas said I would need new brakes by the end of summer (2004) as they were at 35%. They had quoted me $240 for front brake replacement. Then after realizing it was a 4x4, they raised the price to $380 because they had to repack the wheel bearings.

     

    There is no Nissan dealer in town, so I took it to Infiniti today for a service and they said that my brakes were fine and that I had 5.5mm in the front. At how many mm do I know I need new brakes? Infiniti quoted me $400 for front brakes, is $400 too much, or should I go to a brake specialty store like Midas?
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,650
    A simple call to an auto parts store should give you an idea on how much pad you have left. $400 for all 4 brakes is probably in line. $400 just for the front is steep. I had my front brakes replaced around 40k miles. I still had plenty of pad left, but due to towing my boat a lot, the rotors were getting warped pretty bad. I found a shop that could turn the rotors on the vehicle, w/o removing. Thus I was able to get the front done for about $200. The problem is if a shop wants to pull the rotors it is a time consuming job and a bearing repack is required. I had originally planned to just replace the front rotors instead of having them turned, but the extra $200 in labor on top of the rotor costs, made me decide otherwise. I've gone 15k miles since having the rotors turned and they haven't rewarped yet, and I'll be getting a new vehile in the spring anyway.
  • moymchmoymch Posts: 4
    I have a 03 PF/LE. The brakes have made a noise since day one. It now has 29K miles and I am getting ready to take it to Germany for 3 yrs. The dealer (or should I say Stealer) says the brakes are fine. Then why do they make noise like the pads are worn out?? I'm thinking just for piece of mind to have front and rear brakes replaced. No telling what I would charged in Germany for this kind of work.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Can somebody with a 2001 PF please look at their heated seat switches at night & tell me if the switches are lighted. I know the orange light comes on when you turn on the switch, but one day I noticed the switches aren't lighted like most of the other switches & can't remember if they ever were before. Thanks...
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    They aren't lit. Just the yellow/orange light when they are on. I still maintain a heated steering wheel should be put in first. It's hard to drive with gloves or mits on (switches are difficult or impossible to operate) and that steering wheel is COLD, even when leather covered. My rear end can take care of itself. If my hands and feet are warm I'm happy ;-).
  • Can anybody tell me what chassis/body the Nissan Pathfinder is built on? Thanks
  • babineaubabineau Posts: 1
    Does anybody know if you can put an aftermarket antenna on the 99LE? The dealer wants $320 for a power replacement and $240 for a fixed antenna. I will only drive it for another year or so, and don't want to waste a lot of $'s on an antenna. I know that Auto Parts stores offer universal models for $20, but Nissan says they won't fit, it would need a base to screw in to and I'd have to remove the old antenna motor. Is this tough to do? Anyone with any ideas? No local junkyards have used ones, any internet shops??? I have a much better use for $320, like my coming 90K mile service.

    Thanks,
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    What year? The 1st-generation hardbody-style Pathfinders are body-on-frame, and use the chassis ID "WD21". The Nissan Hardbody pickups share the same chassis, except without the "W" in the ID.

    2nd-generation unibody Pathfinders (96-04) use the chassis ID "R50". This chassis is unique to the Pathfinder and the Infiniti QX4.

    3rd-generation Pathfinders (05+) are built on a modifed Titan/Armada chassis. Sorry, I don't know the chassis ID.
  • mavis68mavis68 Posts: 3
    I broke the driver's side door handle off my '00 PF/LE (don't ask -- long story that doesn't reflect well on me). I researched the part which was available to order thru dealers for $100 or via an internet salvage operation for $35. I selected the more reasonable option. I just received the handle and it appears (now that I see what's on the other side of the door) I have to take apart the entire door to replace the piece. Is there anyone who might have experience with this who could offer an easier/alternate solution? Thanks in advance - Jill
  • sbgt94sbgt94 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE. I believe this has a timing chain (not a belt)? Can you confirm? If it is a chain, does this need to be replaced like a belt? Thanks
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    2001 and later have a chain. It's "lifetime", I was told. I think that means if it wears out the rest of the engine did too ;-) .
  • rover1rover1 Posts: 1
    I'm trying to figure out how to change the V-belts on my '95 Pathfinder. So far can't determine how to get to them. Any advice? :mad:
    Thanks,
    V
  • wwjblwwjbl Posts: 1
    I have a 93 PT 4x4SEV6, it is a great vehicle. However, I do have some electrical problems. First of all my cruise control and left front bright head light are not working. They seem to have gone out at about the same time. The first cruise light on the dash comes on when I turn the switch on. However, the cruise does not engage when I push the switch on the blinker handle. As far as the bright headlight goes, I have replaced the bulb, didn't work.
    The next problem is that my power locks, door lock remote, and security system do not work.
    I'm also curious about replacements parts, like seat covers, door handles, mirrors, hubcaps, etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, wwjbl
  • mypathymypathy Posts: 7
    Hello Car Enthusiasts

    I bought the Zaino car care product (zfx, z2, z5, z6, and z7) after reading a lot of reviews on different web sites. My 05 Pathy is a month old and I have tried washing and polishing with “armor all”, the results are OK but I want to get that show car finish. Being a new car I feel this is the time to apply some premium polish to retain that glossy showroom look.

    Please send me any recommendations or suggestions whether to apply this polish and if it is safe to do so.

    Thanks all!
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    First, it's always safe to apply Zaino. The instructions on their website are pretty good.
    First, remember that anytime you touch the vehicle you scratch it! Usually the scratches are too small to see, but they can add up. Try to avoid circular motions, as the scratches they leave will be seen as "swirl marks" and will show up at any angle. Move fore aft on horizontal surfaces and up down on vertical surfaces. This way, any visible scratches you leave will only show up at one angle to the ambient light. Apply Zaino products very thinly. It works better this way. You can always go back and add another coat as all Zaino products are compatible and can be applied on top of whatever Zaino product is already there.
    The way I apply Zaino and they tell you to is:

    1. Wash with mild dish detergent (they mention "Dawn") to remove all previous wax/coatings. This is not recommended for frequent application (dish detergent), but once every year or two shouldn't hurt anything.

    2. Once every few years (or more often if you park outside), use the "clay bar" to remove "bonded contaminants". Your new vehicle may not need this step yet, but you can test by gently running your hand over the cleaned finish. If you feel rough "things" on the paint use the clay bar to remove them. It should be "glass smooth". Use the Zaino car wash soap (Z7) mixed as per instructions as a lubricant. I put it in a spray bottle and apply and then immediatly use the clay bar. Rinse the vehicle off and dry using a cotton bath towel (they recommend "Canon" brand to ensure it is cotton). The towel is used because it increases the area of the drying cloth, thus reducing the chances any dirt picked up will scratch the finish. I like to shake it out from time to time as well to remove anything bad it picks up.

    3. Apply the Z1 to the car.

    4. You don't have to let the Z1 dry, you can apply Z2, Z3, or Z5 right over top of it. Put this stuff on as thinly as you can, even if you can't see it very well. Let it dry to a haze. Even in the sun is fine. You can leave it on as long as you like before wiping it off.

    5. Use the CLEANED cotton bath towel to remove the Z2, Z3, or Z5. DO NOT press hard when doing so. It should come off very easilly.

    6. You can now stop and admire the results, or use the Z6 to enhance the shine or prepare the surface for a second coat. Use a cotton towel again, spray on the Z6 and wipe off immediatly - don't let it dry. Operate in small areas at a time.

    Enjoy the results!
  • kvincentkvincent Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Pathfinder LE. I'd like to flush the coolant system myself, but I can't find the drain plug or petcock! I removed the plastic skidplate and checked a service manual I got from Haynes. That manual said the plug would be in the center of the vehicle and could be opened with a large phillips screwdriver. The only place that could accept the screwdriver is on the driver's side behind a bolted-on piece of what appears to be frame. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Kathleen Vincent
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    On 2001 models it's on the bottom plastic rad. tank, rear or engine facing side of the tank. You do have to have the undertray off to see it (you called it a skidplate). It's flush with the tank wall so you have to look closely.
This discussion has been closed.