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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair



  • cactushingecactushinge Posts: 3
    edited February 2011
    I replaced the timing belt about 75,000 miles ago. If that is the problem why would it start out so mild having only 3 or 4 misses within a minute or two at 70 MPH? I could understand belt jumping if it lost power all at once. Perhaps at the beginning the computer was able to compensate, if it jumped very little at first? Thanks, I may take a look at the belt.
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    those belts have to be replaced at 60,000 yours is 15,000 overdue
    I hope thats the problem the belt thats an easy fix if it is
  • cactushingecactushinge Posts: 3
    edited February 2011
    I guess I was looking for something more complicated. I was going to buy an import engine right away because I have 250,000 miles on the one that I have now. It leaks oil and I didn't want to spend 30 or 40 dollars for a belt. I gave it one more good look. As I was looking for any loose connectors or vacuum leak as I just wanted to be able to drive it to a safe place to leave it for a week until I could get it home. I found a fuel leak. A small rubber fuel hose about 3" clamped to steel tubing on each end. The hose is rotten and it was leaking. The truck was idling and as I moved the hose with a screw driver the roughness stopped. I tightened the clamps and drove 90 miles back home. I am going to replace the fuel line. I am amazed how the engine sounded like it was falling apart with because of a small fuel leak. It could have been worse.
  • Well, my 2001 Inifinti QX4 just had it's service engine light turn on. I took it to AutoZone for a scan and it came up with a P1320 code -

    Took it to the dealership and they have diagnosed that 3 out of the 6 ignition coils have failed and that the other three are weak. If they replace the 3 failed ignition coils, they say that leaving the three weak ignition coils will still cause the service engine light to go off, not allowing my car to pass inspection which I need to do this month.

    They wanted $1300 to replace all six ignition coils and spark plugs. Ignition cables are $135/each and labor is $390.

    Instead of paying that ridiculous amount, I ordered the parts from RockAuto for $320 and paid a local repair shop $170 to install the new coils and plugs.

    After clearing the code, on the second start, the P1320 code comes back. So far, my shop has found nothing wrong with the MAF, crank/camshaft sensors and wiring.

    Note, thru-out all of this, my car starts and runs fine. The only thing noticeable is a high drop in gas mileage.

    They took the car to another shop they work with and they believe that the coils I bought might not be working properly and suggest replacing all of the coils again.

    Right now, I'm having them replace the 1st(different than 2-6) coil. If that doesn't work, try swapping a new coil in for 2-6 to see if they can determine if just one of the coils is bad.

    Any other ideas besides taking it back to the dealership? They'll probably want to replace all of the coils with oem ones first.

    Anybody else have this issue with their Pathfinder?

    Thanks for reading...
  • my 1995 nissan pathfinder suddenly stopped going into reverse what can I do to fix the problem
  • dbinkleydbinkley Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
    1999 pathfinder

    removed blower motor and put 12 volts on leads, motor engaged no problem. checked fuses and they are good. put meter on connector and the voltage was very low. Any ideas on what else i can check?
  • dnn1942dnn1942 Posts: 1
    My 2002 Pathefinder instrument lights did the same thing. On mine the contacts seemed to lose the tension. removing the three bulbs and slightly bending the ears/contacts seems to have worked so far. I will order a new set of bulbs for the next time they go out. Removal is easy. stubby philips for the 2 screws in the top of the bezel. then pop it out, top first. the rest is obvious as you can see screws. bulb housing are 1/4 turn.
  • Why is my nissan pathfinder 2003 se 3.5 engine gauge is reading way to hotter than normal. I've replaced the therostat / radiator / fan clutch / radiator flush / (in same year). Drive my truck for 15mns in a hot day again the guage for the temp. reads very high??
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    edited July 2011
    the 2 things you didn't check and cant is the impeller inside the water pump to see if its slipping, a 2003 has a timing chain that turns it on the shaft.

    the easy thing to check is the radiator cap ,they do get distorted or cracked ,this is the first thing to check or just get a new one from Nissan, there was a discrepancy one of those caps because one is 3 lbs less in pressure rating that the other ,so make sure you get the right one . :shades:
  • shirl21shirl21 Posts: 2
    My daughter has a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. Her check engine light came on recently. It was told to us that the possible cause is this IVTC sensor. Can anyone explain it to me? Does this need to repaired immediately? How much would something like this cost me? I appreciate any assistance with this.

  • alwaysbusyalwaysbusy Posts: 11
    I have an 06 but high mileage (it's 114k now). This happened to me several times. I don't know about that sensor issue (the name of it..) but there was a recall recently-- are you up to date on the recalls?\ It's also connected to the "distance til empty" calculator and I have also had (2) catalytic converters replaced. Contrary to what people were telling me.. the check engine light had nothing to do with not putting the gas cap on correctly.

    definately worth looking into. I would say bring it to a dealer to see if it's a recall situation (they will charge a diagnostic fee but you're under no obligation to get the work done there), then find out what it is. If it's a recall and no cost have them do it. If it's not... get the work done elsewhere if that's your choice.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Shirl, when you say “possible” cause, was the person who gave you the advise just guessing, or did they actually take the time to read out the error code(s) stored in the engine computer? Your daughter’s truck has two of these sensors, one for the left side of the engine, and one for the right side. The error code will tell you which one failed. Unfortunately it’s pretty typical for these valves to fail after 50,000-80,000 miles. I’ve seen replacement ones priced as low as $60 and as high as $150-$200 at some Nissan dealers. The typical labor charge seems to be about an hour, which can sometimes be as low as $75 at some independent garages and sometimes close to $150 per hour as some Nissan dealers. It sounds like you are not very mechanically inclined, so I would advise you to do the following to insure the work gets done at the lowest possible cost:

    1) For no cost, any Autozone store, as well as many other places, will tell you what code(s) are stored in the engine computer. They will give you the actual code number, and tell you what the error code means. If the problem is in fact one of the IVTC sensors, they will tell if it’s the left one or the right one (each one has a different error code).

    2) Make a note of the error code as well as if it’s the left side or the right side, and then visit several different garages or dealers of your choice. Explain to them that you know exactly what’s wrong with the truck, and you are trying to get the repair done for the lowest cost. Most will work with you, and the ones who are evasive about giving you a price are not the ones you want.

    3) Ask them what they would charge you for the part, and also ask them how they calculate their labor charges. Many garages, and almost all dealers, use a “flat rate book”, which is essentially a list of the amount of time it should take a mechanic to complete a specific repair. If the flat rate book says the repair will take 1.0 hours, you will pay for 1.0 hours worth of labor irrespective of the actual time the repair takes. A very experienced mechanic can “beat” the times in the flat rate book by 25 to 50%, and will typically do so because the garage pays him or her based the repairs completed, not by the hour. So any place that uses a flat rate book can tell you the exact cost of the repair up front…if they want to. You don’t need to pay for time to diagnose the problem with the truck since you know exactly what’s needed, although most reputable establishments will take the three minutes it takes to double check the code stored in the computer before they start the work. If a garage wants to charge you based on the actual time the repair takes them, you can win or lose. An experienced mechanic can easily beat the flat rate book, and an inexperienced mechanic might take much longer, and might not complete the job correctly, although replacing one of these valves is not unusual at all, and not difficult, and any mechanic with Nissan experience will know what exactly what the job involves before he or she starts.

    I would suggest you do have the repair done, although it’s not an emergency. In many states the truck will not pass inspection if the check engine light is lit. Also, if the truck has further issues down the road, then you are going to pay more in diagnostic charges for a mechanic that will have to spend time sorting out multiple issues. BTW, there was never any recall on these valves…the repair will need to be paid for.
  • shirl21shirl21 Posts: 2
    Thank you! And you are right, I am NOT mechanically inclined! She had it "read" and the paper states: "Possible Causes" and the faulty IVTC position sensor is underlined by whomever did the test. Other options for them to Underline could have been IVTC position sensor circuit open or shorted, poor, loose, corroded or damaged terminal connections, Faulty Crankshaft Position and sensor, Faulty CKP sensor, and Faulty camshaft position sensor. Nothing states left or right.
    I will go to Auto Zone and have them read it for us. She has over 180,000 miles on this vehicle and we need it to last much longer!
    I thank you for your assistance Mr (ms.) Shark!
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Please let us know about your experience getting it repaired, and how much you pay. It will help others here.
  • shannon34shannon34 Posts: 1
    Our 1995 Pathfinder had the same issue last night. We tried the fuse fix, but it didn't work either. My husband tried pumping the emergency brake a few times while the vehicle was running. When he turned off the vehicle, the headlight went out! He had noticed previously that the inside light would not turn on while the vehicle was running, until he took the emergency brake off. Problem solved!
  • rasheedhrasheedh Posts: 1
    Hi Dear:
    It's no problim with a Pathfinder to cross a hot desert, but you shoud always check water , and oil , and you should always have water as much as you can during your travel.
    A pathfinder owner.
  • bleujaibleujai Posts: 6
    Interesting, I had this identical problem and it was the cabin filter..was clogged from debris, and when using the AC in the summer it was causing puddles in the passenger side. Cleaned the cabin filter and dried it, never to have another leak..same year/model..this happened in 07. I never did get a new one..just keep cleaning it and air compressure drying, and then let it hit the sun for a day.
  • bleujaibleujai Posts: 6
    Yes indeed, a brand new recall on this exact thing. It's an interim recall as they don't quite have the fix, 1996-2006 models. Most dealerships are not aware of it at this time but I received notice mid july. It's pretty bad in some cases, mine real bad. The recall says it could cause the strut and steering column to drop, in my case the brake line is also very exposed..large section of the front quarter panel is rot,. I had it looked at many times all to be told it's fine. It's not fine!!! Go get it checked at the dealer and tell them there is a current recall, and if you have had it fixed, tell them. Very dangerous.
  • Hi everyone, does someone know a garage specialised on Nissan Pathfinders in Sydney? I need to swap shock absorbers and garage should be able to organise right shocks.

    Also, perhaps its worth doublechecking. I think my shocks are done as my Nissan beginns to sway when driving between 70 and 90 and not accelarting too much. It starts after a bump and stops immediately when accelerating harder or not at all. Its sways less when taking off the roof top tent, but still does. I wouldn't no any other reason ...

  • are there any overall reliability issues with the pathfinder looking at a new 2011 what is the overall reliablity with last model year or 2
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