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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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  • welshyboywelshyboy Posts: 9
    My 02 Pathfinder transmition will over rev while shifting first thing in the morning after sitting all night, this just happens for the first couple of miles, in was worse in the winter. I had the oil in the tranny changed but it still does it, it will over rev about 600 rpm between shifts. after a couple of miles it shift fine. any idea's.
    brian
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Do you mean it flares up just before the next gear? What gear and range does that happen? There might be a TSB for the issue from nissan.
  • welshyboywelshyboy Posts: 9
    from 2 to 3 rd and into 4th. about 3000rpm, instead of a smooth shift the rpm's will jump up to about 3800 the the next gear will engage. just like blowing a shift on a manual tranny..
  • vb1vb1 Posts: 1
    If I leave my Path '97 SE for more than a week parked, battery is completely dead.
    I have replaced battery and now it just happened with a brand new battery again.
    If I try to boost the car, engine gets in some alarm state and does not let me start while annoying the whole neigborhood. I have managed with some sequence od opening/closing doors and putting key in and out to stop the alarm and the car started with a boost.
    Some garages are telling me that I have to live with it as it is old car. Can't believe. had an older Isuzu Trooper before and would start after two months sitting on the driveway. Something is draining baterry badly. Has to be a couple amperes a day or more. Of the major accessories I have trailer brake control and alarm that I don't know how to disable.

    Anyone had a same experience. Any ideas?
  • welshyboywelshyboy Posts: 9
    sounds like you may have a short, tuff to find
  • dullflowdullflow Posts: 1
    Hey, does anyone out there have any info on a 88 Nissan Pathfinder tachometer...specs, info, anything. As ridiculous as it sounds I have scoured my chiltons and haynes manuals and found nothing. It quits working at certain times, wont work for a few days, then will suddenly come back to life...very annoying. Or am I searching the wrong technical term? Maybe they call it the super deluxe electronic engine RPM sensor or something like that. Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
  • 1) Yes, pushing the brake all the way too the floor to release is normal. The text on the brake confirms that.

    2) Nissan is saying once you start to actuate the parking brake you will hear clicks. 3-4 clicks is within spec for the brake to be actuated. Some trucks might be set at 3 and others 4. Going beyond that most likely releases the brake.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I think there is a TSB out for what they refer to as a transmission flare up. Look up the TSB on www.nissanhelp.com or www.infinitihelp.com. Should be covered up to 60K or 5 years powertrain warranty.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    My SES has returned for the 3rd time in about a year. I will give it a week before I take it to Autozone to pull the DTC codes. Performance is not affected. The two previous SES events I just left alone and put in decent gas. They both went away in about two weeks or one tank full of good gas. I plan to do the same this third time around.

    Previous codes:

    IVTC sensor
    O2 sensor
  • welshyboywelshyboy Posts: 9
    Thanks for the help, this is precisely what is happening.
  • airman72airman72 Posts: 19
    I am hearing some high-pitch grinding sound from somewhere near the engine block in my 02' PF SE. I've got less than 30k miles on it. It comes when I start up my car in the morning in the garage, and normally goes away after 30 seconds or so. In open-space parking lot, the sound isn't that noticable. Anyone experienced this? Is this normal?

    Also, on the automatic climate control, the temperature can only go from 65F to 85F. Is that all 02' SEs get?
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Posts: 266
    I did go to Auto Zone and DTC code read P1145, Intake Valve Timing Control Postiion Sensor, RH Bank 2. Took my 2001 PF LE in and of coarse the Nissan dealer insisted they have to do their own diagnostics to insure accurate reading of the DTC codes. They got the same reading of coarse and charged me 127.50 for labor (diagnosis,and resetting of the ECM) plus a new sensor @ 92.50. In the future, if the SES light comes on again, I'm going to try and ignore it. Ironically, the shuttle service back to work was a 05 Nissan Quest...I was sitting in the front passenger seat, and couldn't help notice their SES light was on as well.
  • rave2rave2 Posts: 1
    I had the same code come up when they pluged in the computer...Check engine light was on, they replaced the intake timing sensor...$ 84 for the part and $ 99 for 1 hour of labor.
  • whittonmwhittonm Posts: 30
    I removed the roof rack bars from my 2000 Pathfinder today. First, get some Torx Screwdrivers (cheapest at Walmart - I paid $5 for a full set, plus every other kind of screwdriver). Remove the front plastic retainers at the front of the tracks by unscrewing the single Torx screw holding each one in. Carefully nudge out the plastic retainer. Slide both crossbars and any rope hold-downs to the front and remove. Replace plastic retainers, put the Torx screws back in. Saves about 15 pounds and some wind resistance, makes the Pathfinder look a little sleaker. Don't try to do this by removing the rear retainers, as there is not enough room to slide out the bars. :)
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Hey Guys,

    As I expected, my SES light went away in about 3/4 gas tank used. I didn't take it to Autozone to pull the codes becuase I had a hunch it would reset itself. Based on my pathy's past history. In my situation I did not have any performance degradation when the light came on. I can't say this method will work for other owners.

    If there are no saefty concerns, I can only suggest giving some time before you spend any money to fix the SES light. Pull the codes for free at Autozone and keep a record of it and then be real patient. My SES occurences took about on average about a new tank full of gas used and about 1 to 2 weeks to reset automatically.
  • ramza39ramza39 Posts: 23
    well I went back to the dealer last week and tested a floor model and found that it was different than my Pathy. I only had to depress slightly to release the parking brake. I asked the salesman to come over and try it and then went out to do the same with my car and he admitted there is problem. So I went back to dealer on Monday to have it fixed but after it was done, the parking brake was the same but tighter. So I asked the salesman to test it again and this time he also called the technican and after the tech tested it, he said he needs to order a new foot pedal for me. Now, I am waiting for their phone call and once the part arrives I will bring in my car and hope they will fix it right.
  • idr2000idr2000 Posts: 3
    1. Sounds about right for the intake timing sensor. I replaced two O2 sensers already on my 2001 Pathfinder and I think I paid more. Now I also have a problem with the intake timing sensor. It is too bad that the only problems with my pathfinder after 105,000 miles have been worthless sensors. SES light must be off to pass inspection in NC!

    2. They crushed you on the brake job and you probably didn't need it. I replaced my front pads and resurfaced rotors at 102,000 miles and my mechanic told me I could go about 10,000 more miles! Probably overcharged you 2x!

    3. I think I flushed my trany at 60,000 miles and it was part of the 60,000 mile service. About 300 bucks, but included quite a bit. A lot of useless stuff.

    4. The rear brake service was a cleaning and you were greatly overcharged.

    5. Whatever belt were replaced were a rip off. Not needed.

    6. Did you change your engine antifreeze. That should be about 60 bucks and is worth it.

    Call Nissan and complain about that dealer. Find a local family owned shop and go there. Nissan makes above average vehicles, but their service departments are poor and will take you for a ride.

    Good luck!
  • bc93bc93 Posts: 1
    I've experienced something with my idle on occasion, but not as severe. Every so often, when I'm idling at a light or somewhere in gear, the truck will shake and I can feel that the idle has dropped. The RPM gauge shows that it's dropped down a bit and the needle is fluctuating, but it hasn't gone down to zero. It happens so rarely that I don't know whether to have it looked at or not. I certainly don't want to pay for the dealer to look at it, if there isn't a clear explanation as to why it happens.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Try changing the fuel filter. Rather simple job. Located above the rear differential "pumpkin." Lower and remove the spare to get better access. With engine on, remove the fuel pump fuses and let the engine stall out. I think there might be two fuses. One in the Engine bay and the other in the fuse block area on dashboard. This releases fuel pressure in system. You still will have gas spill out so have rags and a vise wrench to pinch off fuel line coming from gas tank. Be careful and good luck.
  • rs4rs4 Posts: 25
    After replacing the intake Manifold the rattling problem was resolved for 2 months. Recently I have started to hear a squeaking noise from the engine even at low rpm <1.5 rpm, if the vehicle hits a pot hole that squeaking gets a litter louder. At rpms between 3 and 4 I 'm again getting the rattling noise similar to how I use to get for Intake manifold issue, but not as Loud. If anyone having a similar issue, please share
  • dakota11dakota11 Posts: 3
    Update on Factory Car Stereo Repair (www.carstereohelp.com): Their charge is now $275 to fix/update the factory in-dash Bose CD changer, but the process is very quick and painless. Thanks for this recommendation smokey75! I sent off the CD changer for my 2001 PF on a Saturday and had it back in my car in 8 days (and that includes a day lost for Memorial Day holiday).

    Dealer wanted $400 (not including $200 for de/reinstallation) and they were only going to refurbish the unit which could have taken 6 weeks. While exploring my options, I called Crutchfield and was told that to use the factory amp and steering wheel controls I needed two adapters...totalling close to $135...so the Kenwood CD player that others recommended seemed less attractive.

    The folks at FCSR were very helpful and when I called and started to say I had a problem with my Nissan, the person who answered said 'let me guess, 2001 PF with Bose CD changer...we get 1-2 of these a day'.

    I sent a nice letter to Nissan relaying that message and have yet to receive a response.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Thanks for the update. I was very happy with their service and mine is still going strong after a lot of use for almost 2 years since their repair.
  • teejeeteejee Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Pathfinder LE, built in 1/05 and it is currently at the dealer for what they're calling "engine knock". They're telling me I need to run higher octane fuel. However, I have been running premium fuel for the last 1500+ miles with no change. I even added an octane booster in the last fill-up and still no change.

    They wanted me to pick it up yesterday, but I told them to keep it and check it again today. I don't believe it's a fuel problem. Anyone else have any experience with this? Any way the intake manifold rattle could be confused with engine knock?
  • pug2pug2 Posts: 1
    My 97 Pathfinder w/ 107,000 miles makes a loud squeaking noise while it is idling, but only for 5 minutes then goes away. If I give it some gas the sound stops. Took it to the machanic and they sent me in for transmission. When they removed the plate, they found metal scrappings. They replaced my torque converter and spot welded the transmission......this did not fix the problem. Then they replaced the bearing on AC tensioner.....still did not fix the problem. Any suggestions? Anyone else have this problem?
  • ssniderssnider Posts: 1
    About a week ago we had alot of heavy rain. I was driving during the rain and it died. The only way to make it run for the next couple of days was to floor the accelerator. The check engine light was coming on and off and it would die if I wasn't flooring it. After a few days it went back to normal and the check engine light went off. Immediately another problem arose...it started shifting different, the rpms are getting up to 4+ and if I slightly let off the gas it'll shift. If I don't let off the gas it goes to almost 5 rpms. I had the transmission flushed today and it's still the same. What's the problem??
  • rs4rs4 Posts: 25
    When driving on rough roads or over a speed bump there ia a pretty significant rattling noise coming from the rear side, feels like its coming from underneath the vehicle. Any body has experienced similar issues ?
  • rjaynesrjaynes Posts: 1
    Say, those repair prices are better than the $750.00 for intake valve timing CP sensor I was quoted here in the Atlanta, Georgia metro area (Decatur) by the local Nissan dealer, can anyone steer me to a competent Nissan repair shop in my area, I can't pay such inflated prices?
  • marknflmarknfl Posts: 2
    I have a 00 pathfinder with 105K and never a single problem until I had the timing belt changed and tranny flushed, now my speedometer, tach, temp, odometer and cruise all stop working then jump back to life constantly. The shop that did my timing belt looked and couldn't find anything. I'm pretty sure it's a ground problem and I've spent hours over and under this thing trying to figure this out! I don't want to pay Nissan $75/hr so they can milk me on this. I'm not so sure this was caused by the recent work.....
    Please give some ideas or solutions because I'm all out!
  • rhobesrhobes Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to remove the inner door panel(driver side) on a 1993 PF?? I need to get in there to repair the door latch which has come loose. Thanks for any help,
    Rhobes :(
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Sounds too coincidental. I would take it back to the shop where you did your timing belt and let them go over everything they took apart. Check for loose/damaged or disconnected wiring harnesses and ground wires. IMO, sounds like a engine speed or revolution sensor issue based on your listed problems except for the temp issue.

    Make it the shops problem and pressure them to deal with it.

    Good luck!
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