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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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  • wow, a really old post, but my fingers are crossed you'll get this.

    i'm having an issue with wiring/relays... can you please provide to me the instructions for locating the relay box? specifically for the turn signals/flashers?

    thank you thakn you thank you thank you!!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    kzc2 hasn't been around for a while but maybe someone else will chime in? :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sweet... thanks...
  • jamie29jamie29 Posts: 6
    hello, i have this same problem, did you fix it? can you tell me where you bought the sensor? THANKS!!!! jamie29@comcast.net
  • pfx2pfx2 Posts: 5
    It's the drivers side after the cat. I purchased a ODBII tool and bought the O2 Sensor online. Much less expensive than the dealer! Fixed in a few minutes!
  • jamie29jamie29 Posts: 6
    can you tell me where you bought yours so i can do the same procedure as you? how much was it? also, do i need the ODBII tool, and where can i buy that, or will the computer reset itself once the oxygen sensor is installed?

    my code says:
    P0158 Rear O2S, Bank 2

    i think it is:
    part # 226A1-4W011

    can i reset with this procedure?:
    reset procedure after replacement:
    http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/Common/codes3.htm

    thanks in advance!!!
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    I purchased a "Scangauge II". It can read and reset codes, as well as display up to four parameters at a time (out of about 18 to choose from), such as fuel use, engine temp, batt. voltage etc. It also has a trip computer built in. Cost is $180 US or so. It sits on the dash plugged in all the time.
  • jamie29jamie29 Posts: 6
    do i need to spend this $180 to fix the error code? where did you get your oxygen sensor? did you get an OEM or a universal where you have to solder the leads? thanks
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I've replaced both rear oxygen sensors on my 01. You don't need the scan tool for the repair. I would recommend you buy the OEM sensors, which are Bosch. But check www.nissanhelp.com & look for the TSB for rear oxygen sensors. I'm not sure if it applies to 2002s but if so that's probably why yours went out. The rear sensors were activating as soon as you start the car & the moisture in the exhaust was shorting them out. The TSB calls for reprogramming the ECM which turns the rear sensors on later once the moisture burns off. The ECM is covered under the longer emissions warranty (but not the O2 sensors). I replaced the sensor, then took the receipt & TSB to the dealership & they did the reprogram no charge under the emissions warranty. As far as where to buy the sensor, just google "2002 nissan pathfinder O2 sensor" & you should find a lot of places to compare prices. Good luck...
  • jamie29jamie29 Posts: 6
    Hello, i just went under the car and looks like i have to buy a universal 4 wire, and cut the leads and solder them and use electrical tape or shrink fit tubing to insulate... i can't reach the darn plug! it's way up in there... how the heck did you reach it?

    also, to reset the error code, can i just unplug the battery for 10 minutes after i put in the universal sensor?

    thanks!!!
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    It's been a while since I did it but I'm pretty sure you access the plug topside. Now what is a pain is the snap in wire guides to keep the cable tucked in. Some of those are impossible to reach. The 10 min. battery disconnect should clear the codes, but don't forget about the ECM reprogram or you'll end up in the same boat again.
  • jamie29jamie29 Posts: 6
    do you think it's easier to buy a universal 4 lead sensor and just cut the leads and solder the wires underneath the car, and therefore leave in the existing cable? that way i don't have to re-route the thing? i didn't even think to look topside, i'll check that tomorrow!

    also, about the reprogramming, i have 91k miles and the dealer told me it's $330 to reprogram the thing. so, i'm thinking the old sensor lated quite a while, how long til the new one blows out?

    also my BOTH of the catalytic converters rusted out! and it's only a 2002! i cna have universals welded in a meineke for $total but the friggin' warranty should be 8 years!!!! but i got too many miles.

    you think i'm ok not to reprogram? and also, is the universal easier and just cut and solder underneath the car, and seal with shrink tubing or electrical tape?

    thanks for all your thoughts!
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    The 4 wire one would probably be ok. I don't have any experience w/ other brands so hard to say. I don't blame you for not reprogramming the ECM at that price. But that seems way high. It only involves them hooking up their scan tool & updating the ECM. 1/2 hour, 1 hour labor at most.
  • jamie29jamie29 Posts: 6
    well it's only $30 more ($76 total with shipping) for the direct connect, that's what i'll do. So let me ask, the connector is the red cable at the right front side area when looking at the engine? That's the left rear one... I think what I'll do is run the new one next to the old and wire-tie it to the old one rather than the locations it's lashed to now... sound like a plan?

    i'll hook it up and do the battery disconnect for 10 mins, and then if all is well i'll pass inspection ASAP!!!

    been driving for 4 months with "rejected!" for this one reason alone. luckily no tix yet!!! LOL

    the dealer won't ECM for free due to 91k miles... it's a scam!
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Yeah, actually that's not a bad idea. I mean, it's kinda goofy but honestly I kinda wish I had left the other cable in place & done that & avoided the scrapes on my arms. It's pretty easy to drop the sensor through from the top. If you have other Nissan dealers I would check their prices on the ECM reprogram.
  • okoehlerokoehler Posts: 1
    Hello pwlong19,

    not sure if you even still own this Pathfinder, but did you ever figure out what the problem was? Just bought a used 98 Pathfinder and it's doing exactly the same thing you describe.

    Thanks,
    OK
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    My sister's '02 PF with 71K miles burns a quart of oil every 1000 miles. Her dealer recomended a valve job, but I told her it would not be harm anything and to simply add a quart of oil when needed. My '01 PF has 111K miles and uses a quart every 2-3K miles. What kind of oil usage are people here with higher mileage 3.5 engines (model years 2001-2004)experiencing? Has anyone here with a 3.5 engine had their truck repaired due to oil burning? What was repaired, what was the cost, and did it resolve the issue? Thanks.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    I noticed that one of the plastic clips that holds the bottom of the front bumper cover to the frame of my truck is missing. The other clip is still there and I'm guessing the missing part is identical. It is circular in shape, and it looks like it just presses into the pre-drilled holes in the bumper cover and frame. Anyone know what this is called so I know what to ask for at the dealer's parts department? Thanks.
  • newmannewman Posts: 11
    have a 95 pathfinder 4x4 the reverse went out need to find some place that will fix it and not charge me a arm and a leg. i live in southeast kansas. or any ideas why the reverse went out. :confuse:
  • burdesalotburdesalot Posts: 1
    I have an 02 SE and depending on my driving will go through at least a qt every 3K miles. If I just drive back and forth to work, I go through a qt. If I do extended highway driving at 70-75 mph. I can go through 2 qts. I have 120K on mine.

    I trust my mechanic and when i asked him if I should have the work done to stop the oil loss he said not to bother since body rot is the number one cause of death where I live. He said just keep feeding it oil.
  • Please be aware the wiring harness can burn. We had a brake sensing unit put in a year ago right after we bought the vehicle. Our sensor lights came on a month ago and we took it to our dealer, Hampton Motors in Fort Walton Beach Florida, after diagnosing the vehicle they downed our vehicle as being unsafe and then determined the whole electrical wiring harness in the vehicle had completely melted. Now a month later, Hampton's determined because of the brake unit our warranty was void and are charging us $3000.00. The mechanic informed us the brake system was properly installed but other than the unit (the braking unit still works) they cannot determine why the wiring harness burned. Check your wiring harness.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,813
    Did you get a second opinion on why the wiring harness melted? If another mechanic says it wasn't related to the brake sensing unit, then warranty coverage may kick back in.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • When I flip on my headlights at night on my 2001, the interior night lights(clock, around transmission lever, etc) don't turn on. Nor does the dimmer switch on the lights that are always on(instrumentation panel, digital compass/thermometer) work.

    Any ideas if this is a simple switch or something that I can easily replace? Hate to have to bring it to the dealer and spend a lot of money to fix.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Check the fuse chart in your owner's manual. If I recall correctly all of the items you mentioned are on the same circuit. If that is the case, the fix may be as simple as replacing the fuse. But if a new fuse blows, too, obviously you will need to determine what is causing the fuse to blow.
  • hisnandezhisnandez Posts: 1
    Ok i'm hoping someone can help.
    Basically i'm down to this i've checked everything i can think of and when it came down to simple spark plugs its sparking but i noticed that i can pull the 4 and 6 plug and it has no effect on the engine it's still idling rough and not rougher. i can't even go up a hill with this thing without it dropping down to 1st to get up the hill. i smell light gas odor on the plugs when i pull them back out but i'm lost at this point (and yes the distributor order is correct i've checked that) on that note i have also switched the 4 and 6 plug and this doesn't do anything either help im lost. btw its a 93 pathfinder 3.o sev6
    :mad:
  • khurramkhurram Posts: 15
    Hello,
    I just bought a used pathfinder 20001 se, with 60k miles on it. Nearly Everything works fine, as it is still under extended warranty.

    There is one thing which is driving me crazy. If I am driving at low speed at 40 mph and let go of accelerator, then if I slightly tap the accelerator instead of pressing it down hard as I just want to increase the speed slightly, it makes at lound whirring noise at 1500 rpm and 45-50 mph. If I keep the accelerator pressed hard, then it does not happen as it shifts from 2-3-4.
    When it is whirring, I think the response goes down also.
    I am thinking it is a timing belt or transmission issue.
    Before I got the car, the dealer had installed a new transfer case, harness wiring.
    Any help on this would be appreciated as do not trust the dealer to much to really take an effort to replicate the problem in the workshop.
    thanks
    Khurram
  • khurramkhurram Posts: 15
    This is exactly the problem. Does anyone have access to the TSB to help me furhter. Thanks
    Khurram

    Service Bulletin Num : 00053
    Date of Bulletin: JUN 19, 2000 View Document

    Component: POWER TRAIN: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
    Summary: SOME APPLIED VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A CHIRP NOISE AS THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFTS FROM 2ND TO 3RD GEAR, PARTICULARLY WHEN ACCELERATING THE VEHICLE WITH ONLY 1/8 THROTTLE APPLIED, THE NOISE MAY BE COMING FROM THE HIGH CLUTCH ASSEMBLY DURING OPERATION.
  • matt04matt04 Posts: 6
    I have a 2004 Pathfinder SE which has had an intermittent problem with squealing belts. The issue started approx 2 years and I have had the car serviced 4 different times for this particular problem. The problem was initially diagnosed as a CS belt/pulley problem. At first the belts were reset, then replaced, then the pulley was cleaned and reset. After each adjustment the noise would stop for a variable period of time and then recur. The NIssan service center performed these services for free as the problem was first diagnosed while the car was under warranty.
    Now the Nissan service center says the squealing is from a broken power steering pump and that it is not the same problem as all of the previous squealing. They further state that it will not be covered by the warranty since this was not the problem initially and the car is out of the warranty period.
    My question is: is it possible that this was the underlying problem initially? Is it reasonable to think that a similair squeal recurring over the course of 2 years is the same issue or is this two distinct problems? How would I differentiate? And how do I know that the fuel pump was even checked during any of these other visits.
  • Hey nospam4cj,

    Haven't seen you post anything more on Bose Clarion CD changer issue. How did it get resolved? I have the same problem. Did you make a deal with Nissan not to post any more comments about this issue if they took care of you? :)
  • jaedleejaedlee Posts: 59
    mine died one disc slot at a time... mine's 2001 LE.
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