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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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  • alwaysbusyalwaysbusy Posts: 11
    I have an 06 but high mileage (it's 114k now). This happened to me several times. I don't know about that sensor issue (the name of it..) but there was a recall recently-- are you up to date on the recalls?\ It's also connected to the "distance til empty" calculator and I have also had (2) catalytic converters replaced. Contrary to what people were telling me.. the check engine light had nothing to do with not putting the gas cap on correctly.

    definately worth looking into. I would say bring it to a dealer to see if it's a recall situation (they will charge a diagnostic fee but you're under no obligation to get the work done there), then find out what it is. If it's a recall and no cost have them do it. If it's not... get the work done elsewhere if that's your choice.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Shirl, when you say “possible” cause, was the person who gave you the advise just guessing, or did they actually take the time to read out the error code(s) stored in the engine computer? Your daughter’s truck has two of these sensors, one for the left side of the engine, and one for the right side. The error code will tell you which one failed. Unfortunately it’s pretty typical for these valves to fail after 50,000-80,000 miles. I’ve seen replacement ones priced as low as $60 and as high as $150-$200 at some Nissan dealers. The typical labor charge seems to be about an hour, which can sometimes be as low as $75 at some independent garages and sometimes close to $150 per hour as some Nissan dealers. It sounds like you are not very mechanically inclined, so I would advise you to do the following to insure the work gets done at the lowest possible cost:

    1) For no cost, any Autozone store, as well as many other places, will tell you what code(s) are stored in the engine computer. They will give you the actual code number, and tell you what the error code means. If the problem is in fact one of the IVTC sensors, they will tell if it’s the left one or the right one (each one has a different error code).

    2) Make a note of the error code as well as if it’s the left side or the right side, and then visit several different garages or dealers of your choice. Explain to them that you know exactly what’s wrong with the truck, and you are trying to get the repair done for the lowest cost. Most will work with you, and the ones who are evasive about giving you a price are not the ones you want.

    3) Ask them what they would charge you for the part, and also ask them how they calculate their labor charges. Many garages, and almost all dealers, use a “flat rate book”, which is essentially a list of the amount of time it should take a mechanic to complete a specific repair. If the flat rate book says the repair will take 1.0 hours, you will pay for 1.0 hours worth of labor irrespective of the actual time the repair takes. A very experienced mechanic can “beat” the times in the flat rate book by 25 to 50%, and will typically do so because the garage pays him or her based the repairs completed, not by the hour. So any place that uses a flat rate book can tell you the exact cost of the repair up front…if they want to. You don’t need to pay for time to diagnose the problem with the truck since you know exactly what’s needed, although most reputable establishments will take the three minutes it takes to double check the code stored in the computer before they start the work. If a garage wants to charge you based on the actual time the repair takes them, you can win or lose. An experienced mechanic can easily beat the flat rate book, and an inexperienced mechanic might take much longer, and might not complete the job correctly, although replacing one of these valves is not unusual at all, and not difficult, and any mechanic with Nissan experience will know what exactly what the job involves before he or she starts.

    I would suggest you do have the repair done, although it’s not an emergency. In many states the truck will not pass inspection if the check engine light is lit. Also, if the truck has further issues down the road, then you are going to pay more in diagnostic charges for a mechanic that will have to spend time sorting out multiple issues. BTW, there was never any recall on these valves…the repair will need to be paid for.
  • shirl21shirl21 Posts: 2
    Thank you! And you are right, I am NOT mechanically inclined! She had it "read" and the paper states: "Possible Causes" and the faulty IVTC position sensor is underlined by whomever did the test. Other options for them to Underline could have been IVTC position sensor circuit open or shorted, poor, loose, corroded or damaged terminal connections, Faulty Crankshaft Position and sensor, Faulty CKP sensor, and Faulty camshaft position sensor. Nothing states left or right.
    I will go to Auto Zone and have them read it for us. She has over 180,000 miles on this vehicle and we need it to last much longer!
    I thank you for your assistance Mr (ms.) Shark!
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Please let us know about your experience getting it repaired, and how much you pay. It will help others here.
  • shannon34shannon34 Posts: 1
    Our 1995 Pathfinder had the same issue last night. We tried the fuse fix, but it didn't work either. My husband tried pumping the emergency brake a few times while the vehicle was running. When he turned off the vehicle, the headlight went out! He had noticed previously that the inside light would not turn on while the vehicle was running, until he took the emergency brake off. Problem solved!
  • rasheedhrasheedh Posts: 1
    Hi Dear:
    It's no problim with a Pathfinder to cross a hot desert, but you shoud always check water , and oil , and you should always have water as much as you can during your travel.
    A pathfinder owner.
  • bleujaibleujai Posts: 6
    Interesting, I had this identical problem and it was the cabin filter..was clogged from debris, and when using the AC in the summer it was causing puddles in the passenger side. Cleaned the cabin filter and dried it, never to have another leak..same year/model..this happened in 07. I never did get a new one..just keep cleaning it and air compressure drying, and then let it hit the sun for a day.
  • bleujaibleujai Posts: 6
    Yes indeed, a brand new recall on this exact thing. It's an interim recall as they don't quite have the fix, 1996-2006 models. Most dealerships are not aware of it at this time but I received notice mid july. It's pretty bad in some cases, mine real bad. The recall says it could cause the strut and steering column to drop, in my case the brake line is also very exposed..large section of the front quarter panel is rot,. I had it looked at many times all to be told it's fine. It's not fine!!! Go get it checked at the dealer and tell them there is a current recall, and if you have had it fixed, tell them. Very dangerous.
  • Hi everyone, does someone know a garage specialised on Nissan Pathfinders in Sydney? I need to swap shock absorbers and garage should be able to organise right shocks.

    Also, perhaps its worth doublechecking. I think my shocks are done as my Nissan beginns to sway when driving between 70 and 90 and not accelarting too much. It starts after a bump and stops immediately when accelerating harder or not at all. Its sways less when taking off the roof top tent, but still does. I wouldn't no any other reason ...

    Thanks
    Springbok2
  • are there any overall reliability issues with the pathfinder looking at a new 2011 what is the overall reliablity with last model year or 2
  • I have a pathfinder 2001 LE3.5, 133k that just cannot rev fully. Beyond 3cycles it just seems to slump and can't rev further. I have changed the air flow meter severally. works normal for one week and back to the problem again getting feed up already and need help pleaseeeeee
  • Did you get the waddling problem fixed and how? I am having the same problem with my 97 Pathfinder. It is not safe to drive. thanks for your time.
  • Hi, I had 2 new shock absorbers put in which didn't solve the problem. Just cost me around 2 grants. Don't know if it would have worked well with all 4 new shock absorbers, some technical fit friends thought so. I couldn't check as the engine left us. Overheated, too much sludge apparently had built up.
    I really hope, you'll get it solved. It must be something that wears out as we didn't have the swinging the first years of the car. But to try 4 new shock absorbers isn't a cheap way ...
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,787
    I had this issue with mine, which I called the death sway. It was the rear control arm bushings. The bushings soften up and allow the axle to shift around. Nissan only sells replacement control arms but replacement bushings can be sourced from a number of parts houses, especially those dealing in 4X4s. Make sure that you get the hardware for it as the old bolts will most likely need to be cut.

    It's a fairly significant job and the bushings need to be pressed in be a machine shop. If I recall, I was changed for 5 or 6 hours and the new bushings and hardware was under $200. There are uppers and lowers. You need the bushings for both to be sure that you fix it.

    My PF felt totally different on the highway after it was fixed.
  • I have a problem that I have not been able to have fixed with my '05 rear wheel drive Pathfinder. I started noticing that occasionally, I would feel a rumbling coming from the front wheels -kind of like when you ride over grooved or slotted pavement on the sides of roads. It only happens some times. When I broought it to the dealer, they told me it was the timing guide that needed to be replaced. When I said no to their proposed cost to repair they said it was possible that it could be the tires. took it to my own mechanic who checked the timing guide and said it didnt need to be replaced. Got brand new tires, had them aligned and then had multiple sensors replaced and ultimately a new IPDM because the car started stalling on me frequently and the "service engine light soon" light kept coming on. The stalling has stopped and the rumbling isnt as bad as what it was -but its still there. I have now spent quite a bit of $ on this 2005 car (91k miles) and am hoping that someone will know about the front wheel rumbling.
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    edited July 2012
    a 2003 pathfinder LE automatic V6 4 wheel drive, the dealer says my vin number shows I have a standard non limited slip differential , I have been reading on this matter and find that some LE PATHFINDERS came through with a limited slip, and the front case differential is not a non slip type ,
    so for this reason , of its all true , can I be safe buy using the limited slip gear oil in both front and rear differentials, but you cant do the opposite , you cant use a non limited slip gear oil in a limited slip differential
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    I have seen this problem on several occasions , and I believe if you pull up the service bullitens and the recalls on your model it may be found, one recall was for the strut mounts rusting out and they have to replace them free of charge. go to the bulliten sections of Edmunds
  • beedle22beedle22 Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    For something that should be very simple this is a complicated process. Unless you have the correct tools to do this I think the best way to get at the bulb is from inside the hatch door panel. You need a 10 mm ratchet with an extender and a 7 mm wrench. There are 3 screws to remove then carefully pop off the panel from bottom to top. Now you may have to pull back a glued covering. Look up inside you will see the casing for the bulb. I got my hand in from the left side to get to the right side bulb. Turn the casing counter clockwise and pull towards you, it may take a little coaxing but it will come out. Takes about 15-20 minutes. Originally, I thought I needed a special offset screwdriver to remove from the other side. I bought two different types but neither worked. This seems to be the easiest less stressful way. Good Luck.
  • newronewro Posts: 19
    have a 2007 Pathfinder SE. When you lock the doors the rear cargo door lock does not lock, all four passenger doors do. Does anyone have any idea? Have been told there is a door lock actuator, if so where is it located and how hard is it to change out? Thanks
  • yaeh its caled the lemon law by the law they have tp replace your vehicle if its been in the shop more than 2 times for the same thing
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    yaeh its caled the lemon law by the law they have tp replace your vehicle if its been in the shop more than 2 times for the same thing

    Please don't post if you don't know what you're talkinga bout. Lemon laws are state specific and I've never seen one that only requires two repairs...most are three repairs of same item or 30 days out of service plus other requirements. Then it's a lenghty process to actually push for a lemon law replacement unless the dealer/manufacturer is extremely cooperative. Plus it generally only applies to NEW vehicles in service for the first 18 months/18,000 miles (generally).
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    I can't speak for other states, but here is New Jersey the process is not lengthy at all, even if the manufacturer fights you every step of the way. But the problem has to be serious (see your state's law to see what qualifies). I would think a typical rattling noise will not considered serious enough.
  • I have a 2003 Pathfinder, and lately I am having trouble filling the tank with gas. When I start the pump and set the nozzle to fill hands-free, it shuts off as though the tank is full well before my tank is actually full. I have been to several different gas stations and get the same issue, so I don't think it is a particular pump problem. And it seems like the problem is getting worse with each refill. Today I tried filling up and couldn't get a gallon in before the nozzle shut off.

    Has anyone experienced or heard of this? Thank you.
  • Good Afternoon everyone. I have a 1999.5 Nissan Pathfinder with 243K miles on it. I have had the vehicle for 11 years following the maintenance schedule. Body is in good shape and she still runs well. Recently the vehicle has begun to misfire and then shut off. The service engine light is also on. Any idea on what the issue may be? Any insight will be appreciated.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    which obd code(s) are stored?
  • dny42dny42 Posts: 8
    I just had an issue of my 2001 (with 244,324 miles on it) starting intermittently and it turned out to be the O2 sensor had to be replaced. The service engine soon light would come on intermittently as well.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,884
    If you were recently denied auto warranty coverage for a surprising reason, please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, January 9, 2013 to tell your story to a reporter.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Others call it the "Wobble of Death". My mechanic told me that the additional labor to remove and install new bushings almost offset the cost of putting in new control arms with bushings already installed. Since it was about $100 more and my boys were busy, I paid the extra and was on my way sooner. Fixed the problem and it drives great. When the time comes to sell, this vehicle will make a great teenager's first wheels. My concience wouldn't have allowed me to sell it with the WOD. I had learned to compensate, but since it was most pronounced at hiway speeds around mild corners after hitting a bump or pothole, an inexperienced driver could overcompensate and have it turn out bad.
  • pathymompathymom Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Pathfinder that cut off while going down the road. Had it towed to my mechanic
    he put it on the machine then replaced the distributor. It will turn over but not start put it back on the code reader it is not throwing any codes just wont start no spark. Any clues as to what to try next?
  • riks1riks1 Posts: 1
    Hi I have a split hose on my 97 pathfinder
    The rubber hose is an L shaped that goes down behind the timing casing and I assume that it leads to the water pump. My question is can I remove the distributor unit to be able to replace split hose?
    The only other option seems to be going in thru all the belts pulleys and timing unit.
    Any help on this would be greatly appreciated
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