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'94 Villager Hesitation (bad)

Two problems.

Hello, my daughter has a '94 6cly and I changed out the cap/rotor/fuel filter.

The van was given to her and has about 150k on it. Doesn't burn oil/no leaks/runs ok besides the problem I am having.

1. When you depress the gas pedal there is a hesitation to where the motor drops off (dead spot/zone). If you feather the gas pedal it will do fine and get up and go. I can hear the fuel pump engage so i don't think it's that.

I was thinking it might be the vapor canister that maybe clogged but not sure. When I go to accelerate the throttle manually buy hand under the hood I can hear a click, I put my hand on the vapor canister and it clicks from the valve on the top but won't do it again until the rpms drops to idle.

Just don't know where to look.

2. The power windows do not work, fuse is good and continuity checks out but windows will not operate. Is there another fuse somewhere else beside the one on the divers side fender under the hood. I did look at the pull door on the dash but it did not list the windows. Power door locks work though.

Thanks again,
Jim

Comments

  • rollbar1rollbar1 Posts: 9
    edited December 2011
    Question, could it be a TPS?

    Thanks,
    Jim
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,013
    edited December 2011
    Could be - see this post:

    hunter38, "2000 Quest, idle changes with foot on brake in drive." #13, 25 Apr 2009 10:27 am

    First I'd get some cleaner safe for fuel injected cars and clean the throttle body. That's known to cause a dead spot when starting from a red light or stop sign. The rpms don't drop with that problem though, but it's cheap to try.

    Don't know anything about fuses in your daughter's generation Quest. The windows switches on my '99 carboned up, and once I tore into the switch, I was able to mechanically clean them. Some electrical cleaner spray may work. But it'd be unusual for all the switches to foul up - typically it's the driver's switch since that one gets used the most.

    Steve, visiting host

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  • Thank you very much for the reply, I'll look into the TPS/MFS.

    I don't have a book yet but would you know the timing set/degree for this motor?

    Thanks,
    Jim
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,013
    Sorry Jim, my manual is just for the second generation and they upped the hp. Might be the same but I don't know.

    Try this link for a manual.

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  • I think your problem may be the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
    Most common symptom is hesitation when stepping on the gas and getting better as you pass the DEAD spot. Try stepping on the gas and maintain it above the bad spot and raise acceleration but don't let it get back to the bad spot and see if it doesn't hesitate.
    Do you have a code reader ?
  • Thanks for the link Steve.

    No I do not have a code reader and AutoZone said it was to old to scan.

    I'm thinking it is the TPS.

    After I pass the dead spot I can rev the engine w/no problem, it is just when I let it drop to the dead spot that I have problems.

    Thanks again,
    Jim
  • Hello, I had a check engine light go on. Brought it to 2 garages to get diagnosed, both said knock sesor issues. My van also runs very slow when stepping on the gas, till i reach 27 mph then the van bucks and is fine. Was also told it could be transmission. I can't afford to do either work on it and absolutely love my van and want to keep it since i have had major repairs over the years. any suggestions to what could be going on would be greatly apreciated. I do not want to get taken advantage of with me being a girl and all lol. thank you!!
  • Ordered a TPS (55 bucks), will be in on Tuesday.

    Will advise.

    Thanks again,
    Jim
  • Have the fluid/filter changed and the bands adjusted. If it has a vacuum module that could be bad as well.

    I'm mainly a Ford truck/Jeep guy. But have worked on cars most of my life. Hard to diagnose over the internet but good suggestions.

    Jim
  • Well I changed out the TPS=No change.

    I can feather the gas pedal and get it up to speed but the hesitation is still there.

    When idling/engine cold or warm I can punch the throttle by hand and it will BOGG down and then start to speed up but it takes about 15 sec and that is not under load.

    I was thinking Fuel Pressure Regulator but I can't keep throwing 50 bucks here or there.

    Any other thoughts before I buy a FPRegulator.

    Thanks,
    Jim

    P.S. Idles great and you can easy into the throttle and it is fine/by hand.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,013
    edited January 2012
    Bummer. For another long shot, someone over in the villagerquest Yahoo group had a similar sounding problem on his daughter's van (and also planned to replace the TPS), but he first checked and found the transmission fluid was two quarts low.

    Sounds a bit dubious to me, but I'm no mechanic, plus it's another cheap thing to check before paying a shop for a diagnosis. Oh, you may want to recheck the harness connections "at both ends" of the TPS.

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  • Thanks, Tranny full. TPS plugs OK/plugged in but I can re-check them.

    Not sure where to go from here except the FPRegulator. After that then the shop I guess, BUT, if you can't hook a scanner up to it then they will be doing the same thing as me but charging more for parts/labor.
  • I'm sorry, but what filter and fluids and bands ? Sorry, not mechanically inclined. thank you. :)
  • jkb719jkb719 Posts: 1
    Did you ever get the problem fixed? I am having the same issue and have replace the TPS as well. Also, my 99 Villager is shifting incorrectly. Have replaces the TPS, Mass airflow sensor, plugs, wires, distributor and fuel filter per mechanic recommendations. Any new ideas?
  • rollbar1rollbar1 Posts: 9
    Yes, the MAFlow Sensor was very dirty and it also caused the tranny to shift weird and wouldn't go over 15mph. Now it runs like a new car. I put it on a computer and the computer came up with the TPS O2 and a few other things but it was the MAFlow that was triggering the problems. You might want to get it put on a computer. Computer cost for me was $68.00 plus labor of 3 hrs, he only charged me $102.00. Pull and check all your fuses first.
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