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Mysterious 1995 eurovan electrical problem

With headlights off, eurovan temp gauge gets a false overtemp.
turn headlights on, while rotating dimmer wheel down then up, tachometer operation is directly affected. (dimmer wheel down,tach. works, dimmer wheel up,tach. does not works).
Also dimmer wheel down,get a false overtemp with red blinking overtemp light,dimmer wheel up,temp. gauge creeps back to normal range but tach. drops to zero. correlation of tach. movement is directly affected by dimmer wheel movement.
also, when headlights are on, there is dash area illumination except for all instrument cluster gauges.
I have so far replaced temp sensor, inoperative horns, contact cleaned all fuse/relay plugs. Help please.

Comments

  • sietsesietse Posts: 1
    I am not a mechanic at all, but I noticed this item at europarts-sd.com and it might be something you could use..
    http://store.europarts-sd.com/voltagestabilizer1992-1996.aspx
    if you read the description you see what i mean.

    Sietse
  • Thanks, that's interesting. I will look into the voltage stabilizer.
  • martin95martin95 Posts: 1
    Hi Yohan5000,

    I have the exact same electrical problem on my 95 eurovan, did you find a cure? I looked for the voltage regulator part link provided in a reply to your post but the link showed the part was no longer available...

    Thank you for any help anyone!

    Martin95
  • Pulled the cluster out (fantastic youtube video showing removal)
    ordered a new voltage regulator (caution! these voltage regulators can range from $8 to $58 dollars from car part places on the net, using part no. only gives more cross referenced regulators example same regulator fits many audi vehicles, even vanagons use that same regulator), carefully soldered it to board, reinstalled cluster no fix. while cluster was installed, wiggled wiring harness, cluster lights and gauges intermittenly operated correctly. removed cluster, opened it back up, with magnifying glass and bright light identified two cold / cracked plug pins on the board, using solder sucker first, resodered 1 pin looked good, resodered the other suspect pin and the solder pad was faulty, solder just flowed in cold then scorched the area, that part of the board must have been bad, now looking for a replacement cluster, one should be available somewhere when the right time comes
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